DROPS / 157 / 4

Elinor Dashwood Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with round yoke and textured pattern, worked top down in "Alaska". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no x-402
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
750-850-950-1000-1100-1250 g colour no 02, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for rib.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 522: 8 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 1.80 £ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP 1 (applies to yoke + waist):
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP 2 (applies to sides):
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, K 2 (marker is between these), 1 YO. On next row work YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of YO instead of front) to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to waist + sleeve):
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows 2 sts before marker: K 2 tog.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (measured from cast-on edge):
SIZE S: 2, 9, 16, 23, 30, 38, 45 and 53 cm.
SIZE M: 2, 9, 16, 23, 31, 39, 47 and 55 cm.
SIZE L: 2, 10, 17, 24, 32, 40, 48 and 56 cm.
SIZE XL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 50 and 58 cm.
SIZE XXL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 35, 43, 51 and 59 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 36, 44, 52 and 60 cm.

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JACKET:
Worked back and forth, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 79-86-90-94-97-101 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Alaska. Work 4 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Now switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Work in stocking st with 5 band sts in garter st in each side (continue band sts until piece is finished), AT THE SAME TIME inc 41-45-52-59-67-85 sts evenly from RS – READ INCREASE TIP 1! There are now 120-131-142-153-164-186 sts on needle. Remember BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. Now work an elevation in the back of neck as follows: Work 69-76-81-88-93-105 sts, turn, work 18-20-20-22-22-24 sts, turn, work 27-30-30-33-33-36 sts, turn, work 36-40-40-44-44-48 sts, turn, work 45-50-50-55-55-60 sts, turn, work 54-60-60-66-66-72 sts, turn, work rest of row. On next row from RS, work and inc according to pattern A.1 – choose diagram for correct size. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When entire diagram A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 230-252-274-296-318-362 sts on needle. On next row work 1st row in A.2, AT THE SAME TIME inc 8-8-8-10-16-0 sts evenly = 238-260-282-306-334-362 sts. Work next row as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, 2nd row in A.2 over the next 31-35-39-43-48-53 sts (= front piece), slip the next 51-55-57-61-65-69 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 new sts (= under sleeve), continue with A.2 over the next 64-70-80-88-98-108 sts (= back piece), slip the next 51-55-57-61-65-69 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 new sts under sleeve, A.2 over the next 31-35-39-43-48-53 sts (= front piece), 5 band sts in garter st. There are now 152-166-184-200-220-240 sts for body.

BODY:
Continue back and forth with 5 band sts in garter st in each side and stocking st. When piece measures 4 cm from new sts under sleeve, insert 6 markers in piece as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, 17-20-23-25-28-31 sts in stocking st, insert a marker, 36-38-40-44-48-52 sts in stocking st, insert a marker, 36-40-48-52-58-64 sts in stocking st, insert a marker, 36-38-40-44-48-52 sts in stocking st, insert a marker, 17-20-23-25-28-31 sts in stocking st, 5 band sts in garter st. On next row from RS beg dec - READ DECREASE TIP! Dec 1 st before 1st and 3rd marker and 1 st after 2nd and 4th marker (NOTE! 1st marker is 1st marker on row from RS!). Repeat dec every 1-1-1½-2-3½-3½ cm 4-4-4-3-2-2 times in total = 136-150-168-188-212-232 sts. Now insert a marker in the middle of the 36-38-40-42-48-52 sts in each side (i.e. between 1st and 2nd marker and between 3rd and 4th marker) = 5th and 6th marker. When piece measures 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm from the new sts under sleeve, beg inc – remember INCREASE TIP 1! Inc before 1st and 3rd marker and after 2nd and 4th marker. Repeat inc every 3 cm 4 more times, AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd, 3rd and 4th inc, inc 1 st on each side of 5th and 6th marker (= sides) – READ INCREASE TIP 2! When all inc are done there are 168-182-200-220-244-264 sts on needle. When piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm from new sts under sleeve, inc 4-2-2-0-0-4 sts = 172-184-202-220-244-268 sts. Then work A.3 with 5 band sts in garter st in each side. When A.3 has been worked vertically, inc 43-46-52-67-79-91 sts evenly = 215-230-254-287-323-359 sts. Work 1 row. Then switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work rib as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 6 sts remain on row, K 1, 5 band sts in garter st. Continue like this until rib measures 8 cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip the 51-55-57-61-65-69 sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 5 mm. Work 2nd row in A.2, cast on 8 new sts under sleeve at the end of row = 59-63-65-69-73-77 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of the 8 new sts (i.e. 4 sts on each side of marker). Then work in the round. Continue with pattern according to diagram A.2 – NOTE: Adjust pattern according to the middle, arrow in diagram marks middle st on top of sleeve, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm from marker, beg dec – READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 2-1½-1½-1½-1½-1 cm 8-10-11-10-12-14 more times = 41-41-41-47-47-47 sts remain. When piece measures 34 cm in all sizes, inc 1 st = 42-42-42-48-48-48 sts. Then work pattern according to diagram A.3. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, inc 3 sts evenly = 45-45-45-51-51-51 sts. Then switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib (K 1/P 2). Cast off with K over K and P over P when rib measures 8 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the holes under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 14.11.2016
BODY: (wrong no of sts for size XL)... 5 band sts in garter st, 17-20-23-25-28-31 sts in stocking st, insert a marker, 36-38-40-44-48-52 sts in stocking st, insert a marker, 36-40-48-52-58-64 sts in stocking st, insert a marker, 36-38-40-44-48-52 sts in stocking st...

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 157-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (51)

Heidi Elleman 09.05.2020 - 00:05:

Hej. Jeg vil gerne vide, hvordan jeg i størrelse XL tager 59 masker ud jævnt fordelt på første pind når der kun er 94 masker at gøre det over? Hilsen Heidi

DROPS Design 11.05.2020 kl. 09:48:

Hei Heidi. I løpet av økeomgangen kan du strikke 1 maske, så øke 1 gang 25 ganger, og strikke 34 ganger 2 masker før det økes med 1 maske (men bytte på hva du strikker jevnt fordelt) + 1 maske. God Fornøyelse!

Jonna Nielsen 19.02.2019 - 10:57:

Kan ikke nå op på 182 m efter udtagning. 4x4 udtagning 1-3-2-4 =16 m. Udtagning 5-6 3x 4 = 12 ialt 178 m. Hvad gør jeg forkert? Efter mønster 3 (slutter på r-siden) skal man tage ud på vrangpinden?

DROPS Design 21.02.2019 kl. 11:24:

Hei Jonna. Du skal øke ved merkene 4 ganger TIL (altås i tillegg til den første økingen beskrevet) = totalt 5 økinger, 20 masker økt. da får du 182 masker. God fornøyelse

Elvia McCormack 06.04.2018 - 03:56:

Hello. I just finished Chart A1. I’m not sure what to do next. I’m supposed to work on chart A2. Is it just for two rows? After which I continue in stockinette for the body? Thanks.

DROPS Design 06.04.2018 kl. 08:45:

Dear Mrs McCormack, work first the first row in A.2 inc evenly (see your size), then on 2nd row in A.2 divide pieces for armholes (= you will work row 2 in A.2 only on front and back pieces, stitches for sleeves will be slipped on a stitch holder). Continue then body in stocking stitch, A.2 will continue on the sleeves (= when working sleeves start with row 2 in A.2). Happy knitting!

Elvia McCormack 28.03.2018 - 18:15:

Hello. Thank you for providing such beautiful patterns for free. I found this pattern on Ralvery and there was a notation that an errata was available but I don't see one on the website. Could you please confirm? Thanks.

DROPS Design 29.03.2018 kl. 02:11:

Dear Elvia, you can find the correction of you click on the link right below the patern and above the diagrams. Click on the text that says "Click here to see the correction/s..". Happy Knitting!

Gerrie Hazekamp 29.10.2017 - 17:21:

Als het hele telpatroon A.1 een keer in de hoogte is gebreid, staan er 362 st op de nld. Dat is een verdubbeling van het aantal steken. Hoe kom je hieraan? Ik zie in totaal maar 11 meerderingen in het telpatroon A1

DROPS Design 29.10.2017 kl. 18:47:

Hallo Gerrie, Dat komt omdat er meerderingen in het telpatroon A.1 zijn verwerkt in de vorm van omslagen. Aan het begin heeft A.1 11 steken in de breedte en aan het eind 22 steken. Een verdubbeling dus. A.1 herhaal je steeds in de breedte over de hele naald (met uitzondering van de 5 voorbiessteken; zie beschrijving in het patroon.

Eglantine 08.11.2016 - 21:44:

Je suis en train de tricoter ce modèle en taille XL. A l'étape Dos & devants, pour placer les marqueurs, on obtient 5 + 25 + 42 + 52 + 42 + 25 + 5 mailles, soit 196 mailles. Or, à la fin de l'empiècement, on a 200 mailles. Où sont passées les 4 mailles manquantes ? Faut-il placer les marqueurs autrement ? Faut-il répartir 4 diminutions quelque part ? Je n'ai rien vu de tel dans les instructions. Merci

DROPS Design 14.11.2016 kl. 11:41:

Bonjour Églantine, une correction a été faite pour la taille XL, il faut compter 44 m et non 42. Merci, bon tricot!

Laly 23.04.2016 - 12:37:

Bonjour, ce modèle me plaît énormément, mais je voudrais mettre un point fantaisie "léger" dans la partie jersey pour casser la "monotonie" de ce point. Que pourriez-vous me conseiller? merci beaucoup!

DROPS Design 25.04.2016 kl. 09:56:

Bonjour Laly, vous trouverez probablement l'inspiration dans notre bibliothèque de points: ajourés, ou même texturés. Bon tricot!

Rineke Tjaden 12.04.2016 - 08:09:

Hallo omdat Alaska in 2007 veranderd is ben ik op zoek naar 3 bollen ecru "oude stijl " ook aangebroken bollen zijn ok. vast bedankt rineke

Iréne Thorzé N 26.02.2016 - 15:08:

Det står i beskrivningen att man ska sätta 6 markörer när man har stickat 4 cm på de 8 maskorna jag har lagt upp som sen ska tillhöra ärmen. När jag ska sätta markörerna efter beskrivningen så blir det bara 5 st! Vad är det för fel?

DROPS Design 29.02.2016 kl. 10:28:

Hej. Du sätter först 4 markörer som det står i början av texten, lite längre ner sätter du markör nr 5 och 6. Lycka till!

Bodil Kruse Jensen 30.01.2016 - 16:23:

Det er da irriterende det er i størrelse XL hvor der er problemer med opskriften, jeg har prøvet at tjekke de mindre størrelser der passer antallet af masker! Har I ikke en opskrift på størrelse XL - uden fejl? Så vil jeg gerne købe den! På grund af fejlen i opskriften på størrelse XL- er jeg nødt til at kassere mange timers arbejde ! Øv det er for dårligt - at der ikke er læst korrektur på opskriften!

DROPS Design 03.03.2016 kl. 16:13:

Hej Bodil, min kollega har svaret nøjagtig hvordan du tager de 10 m ud jævnt fordelt og bagefter hvordan du strikker de 306 masker du har i XL. Hvis du skriver konkret hvad du ikke kan få til at stemme så kigger vi gerne på den igen og vi hjælper dig gerne. Men spar os for sarkasme!

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