DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 25-9
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-055-by
Yarn group A
Size: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: (40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
(50) 50-50-50-50 (100-100) g colour no 02, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

Dec at beg of row as follows: K 2, K 2 tog.
Dec at end of row as follows: Work until 4 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 2.

The piece is worked top down. Work in the round until rib is finished, then work back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on (80) 96-96-112-112 (128-128) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with off white Baby Merino. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid back). Work rib from mid back as follows: K 1, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with P 2, K 1. When rib measures (2) 2-2-3-3 (3-3) cm, work next round as follows: * K 1, 1 YO, P 2 tog, K 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= edge with eyelet holes for ties). Work 1 round in rib K 2/P 2.
Then work an elevation in the back as follows: Work (7) 9-9-9-9 (9-11) sts rib, turn, tighten yarn, work (14) 18-18-18-18 (18-22) sts rib. Turn, tighten yarn, work (20) 24-24-24-26 (26-30) sts rib, turn, tighten yarn, work (26) 30-30-30-34 (34-38) sts rib. Turn, tighten yarn, work (32) 36-36-36-42 (42-46) sts rib, turn, tighten yarn, work (38) 42-42-42-50 (50-54) sts rib. Continue like this by working (6) 6-6-6-8 (8-8) sts more on every turn until a total of (62) 66-66-66-82 (82-86) sts have been worked. Turn, continue in rib in the round over all sts.
When piece measures (4) 4-5-6-6 (6-6) cm mid front, switch to circular needle size 3 mm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec (10) 14-10-22-14 (26-18) sts evenly = (70) 82-86-90-98 (102-110) sts. Cut the yarn, insert 1 marker mid front and beg working from marker (1st row from WS). Then work GARTER ST back and forth on circular needle - see explanation above AT THE SAME TIME dec - READ DECREASE TIP (= 2 sts dec). * Dec 1 st in each side, K 2 rows without dec *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain on row. Turn and K 2 and 2 tog, cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining 2 sts.

Fold the tip in triangle towards front of pants and fasten neatly mid front. Sew opening from tip and down in each side until an opening for leg remains. Adjust according to child, 6-12 cm should remain for leg opening.

Cut 3 lengths off white Baby Merino yarn of approx. 2-3 metres each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the strands double so that they twine. Make a knot at each end. Baste the yarn up and down through row with eyelet holes - start and finish mid front.


diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Britt-Mari Persson wrote:

Hej, kan ja g sticka dessa byxor med enbart raka stickor.?

24.07.2023 - 10:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Britt-Mari Vrangborden øverst strikkes rundt, så da må du evnt strikke den frem og tilbake med kantmaske (forandre maskeantallet, slik at vrangborden går opp). Resten kan du strikke på parpinner. mvh DROPS Design

27.07.2023 - 11:32

country flag Heidi Wang wrote:

Hei. Jeg lurer på om fellingene skal gjøres på hver side av merke foran? Det står på sidene, og da er det jo 41 masker fra merke bak til merke foran. Skal jeg da felle på halv parten av disse? da blir det jo på siden. Heidi

16.08.2021 - 09:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Heidi. Har du flyttet merket fra midt bak til midt foran? Det skal nå strikkes frem og tilbake, samtidig som det felles 1 maske i hver side. Hver side blir da midt foran (les FELLETIPS i oppskriften). mvh DROPS design

18.08.2021 - 13:16

country flag La Marée wrote:

Waarom halverwege draad afknippen? Brei vóór de ronding in het boord achter een halve pen, maak de pen erna af en ga, zo eindig je middenvoor en kun je direct verder in ribbelsteek. Vergeet ook niet een kantsteek!

21.03.2021 - 11:58

country flag MoS wrote:

Ska man sticka ett varv med minskningarna och sen 2 varv utan . Alltså var tredje varv med minskningar. Stickar man då över alla maskor ?

17.01.2021 - 21:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hej MoS, ja det stemmer :)

20.01.2021 - 16:41

country flag Hazeline M wrote:

Hello, i am a little confused with the decrease part of the section below. Where do i do the decrease/how do inincorporate the decrease? And where do I cut the yarn? "K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec (10) 14-10-22-14 (26-18) sts evenly = (70) 82-86-90-98 (102-110) sts. Cut the yarn, insert 1 marker mid front and beg working from marker (1st row from WS)."

17.12.2020 - 11:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Hazeline M, the decreases will be worked on the same row, ie knit 1 round while decreasing (10) 14-10-22-14 (26-18) sts evenly (this lesson explains how to do that) = there are now (70) 82-86-90-98 (102-110) sts left. Happy knitting!

17.12.2020 - 16:54

country flag Irma wrote:

Er staat dat je 2 naalden recht breid (zonder mindering aan begin en eind) Dit betekend dat ik dan de ene keer op de goede kant en de andere keer op de binnenkant minderd klopt dit? Vriendelijke groet Irma

08.04.2020 - 17:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Irma,

Ja, je mindert 1 steek aan elke kant in één naald, dan brei je 2 naalden recht. Deze 3 naalden herhaal je steeds tot er 4 steken over zijn op de naald.

07.05.2020 - 11:22

country flag Maria wrote:

Hi, I'm knitting this lovely pattern in size 1-3, but 96 stitches seems way too small. Unstretched the waist band is 8.5cm and stretched 18cm. My question is, if this is right, should I continue or start again? I checked the other pattern for trousers (smarty pants) the starting stitches seems more accurate 136. Thanks

24.03.2020 - 12:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maria, make sure you get the correct tension, ie 24 sts x 48 rows = 10 x 10 cm with larger needles - read more about tension here. Happy knitting!

24.03.2020 - 12:59

country flag Christel wrote:

Hei! Er det plass til tøybleie under, eller er denne mer til pynt? :)

14.08.2019 - 21:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Christel, jo der er plads til ble under. God fornøjelse! :)

16.08.2019 - 13:41

country flag Verschueren Andrea wrote:

Beste, Ik ben het luierbroekje aan het breien . Er staat niets in het patroon wanneer je de pijpjes moet breien. Zoals ik het patroon volg wordt het broekje in een stuk gebreid ? Kan u mij misschien een beetje verduidelijking geven? Men spreekt van middenvoor een markeerder te plaatsen en dan verder te gaan op de rondbreinaald maar over een splitsing spreken ze niet in het patroon. Mvg Andrea

24.04.2019 - 15:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Andrea,

Nadat je de boord hebt gereid, ga je verder in ribbelsteek heen en weer breiend (dus niet meer in de rondte). Je mindert dan steeds aan beide kanten van het werk, zoals beschreven en op die manier brei je a.h.w. een driehoek onder de boord. Op het einde vouw je de punt van de driehoek naar boven en zet je deze midden voor vast. Je breit dus geen aparte pijpjes.

25.04.2019 - 11:59

country flag Carolina wrote:

Hola amigos, mi duda se encuentra en la parte donde se comienza a disminuir en punto musgo. Al decir, “disminuir 1 punto a cada lado, tejer 2 hileras de derecho sin disminuir” no tengo claro si son vueltas-hileras o surco= 2 hileras. En la imagen me parece ver una disminución y dos surcos sin disminución. Muchas gracias y un saludo.

05.03.2019 - 12:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Carolina. 1 hilera = 1 fila. Tejer 2 filas sin disminuciones y hacer la siguiente disminución. La foto no sirve siempre como referencia.

17.10.2019 - 19:00