DROPS / 152 / 22

Mykonos by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Muskat”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no r-663
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour no 18, white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE (80 cm) 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm, or 2 repetitions of A.3/A.5 = width 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 6-6-7-7-7-7 pieces

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
KNITTING TIP:
When neck dec beg, continue eyelet rows that have been started, but do not beg new eyelet rows. NOTE! Adjust to not dec for neck on the first 4 rows of diagram A.4/A.6.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.6. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. NOTE: Diagrams do not fit vertically when repeated, but continue eyelet rows as before, AT THE SAME TIME beg a new eyelet row every 16th row. When A.4 and A.6 meet mid back, work 1 hole more in A.6, but do not work in A.4 (i.e. there is 1 hole in the middle between A.4 and A.6).

DECREASE TIP (applies to neck dec):
Dec inside 2 sts in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before 2 sts: Start 2 sts before and K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after 2 sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog second and third st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (measured in the side where piece is shortest):
SIZE S: 7, 13, 19, 25, 31 and 37 cm.
SIZE M: 9, 15, 21, 27, 33 and 39 cm.
SIZE L: 4, 10, 16, 22, 28, 34 and 40 cm
SIZE XL: 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36 and 42 cm
SIZE XXL: 7, 13, 19, 25, 31, 37 and 43 cm
SIZE XXL: 9, 15, 21, 27, 33, 39 and 45 cm
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 229-253-277-301-325-349 sts (incl 6 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm with Muskat. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Work 6 band sts in each side in garter st until finished measurements. Continue as follows: K 6 (= band), A.1 (= 12 sts) 18-20-22-24-26-28 times total in width, then 1 st in stocking st (work like this so that both sides are the same) and K 6 (= band). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 193-213-233-253-273-293 sts on needle. Then work A.2 (= 10 sts) over A.1 1 time vertically, finish row with 1st st in A.2 before the last 6 K sts (so that pattern is the same in each side towards bands at the front). Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. Then work 6 sts in garter st (= band), A.3 (= 10 sts) over A.2 9-10-11-12-13-14 times in total in width (= mid back), then work A.5 (= 10 sts) over A.2 9-10-11-12-13-14 times in total in width, then 1 st in stocking st, finish with 6 sts in garter st (= band). Pattern A.3/A.5 is displaced towards the 6 band sts in each side worked in garter st until finished measurements. NOTE: Work 9th row in A.5 as follows: Work pattern and in garter st as before until 8 sts remain, 1 YO, slip 1 st, K 1, psso – see diagram, finish with 6 sts in garter st (= band). Continue pattern until piece measures 13 cm.

On next row from RS dec in A.3 as follows: Instead of K 2 tog as shown in diagram, K 3 tog (= 1 st dec) on every other vertical eyelet row (i.e. every other repetition of A.3), on same row dec on every other vertical eyelet row in A.5 as follows: Instead of "slip 1 st, work 1 st, psso", work as follows: Slip 1 st, K 2 tog, psso (= 9-10-11-12-13-14 sts dec in total). Repeat dec 1 more time in the remaining vertical eyelet rows when piece measures 15 cm (= 18-20-22-24-26-28 sts dec in total) = 175-193-211-229-247-265 sts remain on needle. NOTE: Dec only 1 st in every repetition (i.e. 1 repetition = 9 sts).

Continue with pattern on every other row until piece measures 23 cm. On next row from RS inc in A.3 and A.5 as follows: Instead of K 2 tog as shown in diagram, work first row from RS as follows: K until YO, 1 YO (YO = inc st), K after YO, continue to work as before. Repeat inc on every other vertical eyelet row (= 9-10-11-12-13-14 sts inc). Repeat inc on the remaining vertical eyelet row when piece measures 25 cm = 193-213-233-253-273-293 sts on needle. NOTE: Inc only 1 st in every repetition (i.e. 1 repetition = 10 sts). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 25 cm (adjust to work 1 whole repetition of A.3/A.5), work A.4 over A.3 and A.6 over A.5. Pattern is displaced and worked until finished measurements. NOTE: Work 1st row in A.6 as follows: Work pattern and in garter st as before until 8 sts remain, K 2 tog, 1 YO – see diagram, finish with 6 sts in garter st (= band). When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm, divide the piece, finish front and back piece separately as follows: Slip the first 51-56-61-66-71-76 sts (= right front piece) and the last 52-57-62-67-72-77 sts (= left front piece) on a stitch holder (NOTE: There is 1 st more on left front piece so that pattern is the same in both sides), cut the yarn, then work only over the middle 90-100-110-120-130-140 sts (= back piece).

BACK PIECE:
Continue pattern as before AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts for sleeves in each side of piece at the end of every row as follows: cast on 4 sts 2 times in total in each side, then 9-8-8-8-7-7 sts 2 times in total in each side = 142-148-158-168-174-184 sts on needle. Work inc sts in pattern and when all sts have been inc, work 4 sts in garter st in each side of piece for sleeve edges. Continue lace pattern as before. When piece measures 38-40-41-43-44-46 cm - see KNITTING TIP above, work 2 ridges in garter st over the middle 4 sts (= 69-72-77-82-85-90 sts on each side), work the other sts as before. Then continue working in garter st over the 4 sts and pattern as before, AT THE SAME TIME divide the piece for v-neck and finish each shoulder separately (= 71-74-79-84-87-92 sts on each shoulder). Continue to work in garter st over the 2 outermost sts towards the neck, AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS dec 1 st for neck inside the 2 sts in garter st - read DECREASE TIP, repeat dec on every row from RS 16-16-17-17-18-18 more times (= 17-17-18-18-19-19 times in total) = 54-57-61-66-68-73 sts remain on the shoulder. Work until piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm. Work 1 ridge in garter st over all sts. Cast off. Piece measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 51-56-61-66-71-76 sts. Now cast on new sts for sleeve at the end of every row from RS as follows: cast on 4 sts 2 times in total, then 9-8-8-8-7-7 sts 2 times in total = 77-80-85-90-93-98 sts on row (NOTE: There is 1 st more on left front piece, i.e. after inc there are 78-81-86-91-94-99 sts on needle). Work inc sts in pattern and when all sts have been inc, work the last 4 sts in garter st for sleeve edge. Continue lace pattern as before. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES! When piece measures 38-40-41-43-44-46 cm – see KNITTING TIP above - cast off the 4 band sts at beg of next row from RS = 73-76-81-86-89-94 sts remain on needle. Continue to work in garter st over the 2 outermost band sts towards the neck and pattern as before, AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS dec 1 st for neck inside the 2 band sts - read DECREASE TIP, repeat dec on every row from RS 19-19-20-20-21-21 times = 54-57-61-66-68-73 sts remain on the shoulder. Work until piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm. Work 1 ridge in garter st over all sts. Cast off. Piece measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed. When casting off for neck, cast off the outermost 4 band sts at beg of next row from WS, work 2 sts in garter st, P the next 2 sts in stocking st tog (i.e. same no of sts on right and left front piece). Then work as right front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and underarm seams. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= st that is not there
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= extra st cast on on left front piece for sts should be the same in both sides



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 152-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (48)

Inga-Siv Lennartsson 01.08.2019 - 08:55:

Förstår inte varv 9 på mönster A3 och A5, ska det vara 9 maskor mellan varje omtag och ihoptagning? Omtagen stämmer inte.

DROPS Design 01.08.2019 kl. 14:57:

Hej Inga-Siv, du stickar hela tiden 8 räta maskor mellan varje omtag och ihoptagning, både i A.3 och A.5. Lycka till

Diane 05.03.2019 - 17:20:

Ik vind dit een supermooi model, maar ik brei absoluut niet graag met rondbreinaald. Is de uitleg voor dit model niet beschikbaar op de traditionele manier, ttz rug +2 voorstukken ? Of hebt u een ander vergelijkbaar model op de traditionele manier ? Alvast hartelijke dank.

DROPS Design 07.03.2019 kl. 22:25:

Dag Diane,

Vanwege het kantpatroon dat doorloopt op over de zijnaad is dit patroon helaas is allen geschikt om met de rondbreinaald te breien.

Natalie 07.07.2018 - 06:34:

Good evening. I accidently asked this question in the comment section so I will attempt to ask it here. I'm a little confused as to what to do on row 9 section A5. it's showing an 11sts pattern instead of the usual 10 sts. If I do this the pattern gets moved to the left an extra st at each repetition and distorts the pattern. can you please advise me on how to work this specific row and where to add the extra stitch... Thank you

DROPS Design 09.07.2018 kl. 07:45:

Dear Natalie, the lace pattern is going diagonnaly so that on row 9 you will knit together the last st each repeat with the first st next repeat and at the end of row tog with the last stitch in stocking st so that pattern looks symetrical on both sides - see "star" under diagram key. Happy knitting!

Natalie Paquet 06.07.2018 - 18:34:

Ok so i'm stuck on row 9 of A5. If i knit 9 sts befoe the yo slip k psso i end up out of pattern and distorting the pattern to the right. Please clarify or attempt to guide me as to what I am doing wrong.

Christine 31.03.2018 - 13:51:

Hello. When the decrease starts at A3/A5 pattern at 13cm, I note the pattern repetition is then reduced to 9 stitches. I’m confused as the pattern illustrated for A3/A5 and then A4/A6 has a pattern repetition of 10 stitches. If we are reducing to 9, what stitch do we ignore in the repetition ??

Gisela 03.02.2018 - 20:39:

Habe Problem mit dem Muster A3/A5 Reihe 11: in der Rückenmitte endet A3 mit 2 rechts zusammenstricken und 1 Umschlag. Dann geht es weiter mit A5: 1 Umschlag, 1 abheben, 1 rechts, abgehobene Masche überziehen. Das heißt, es gibt 2 Umschläge nebeneinander, ist das richtig?

DROPS Design 05.02.2018 kl. 13:18:

Liebe Gisela, wiederholen Sie die Diagramme mit den korrekten Maschenanzahl inzwischen, dann sollen nur 1 Umschlag in der Mitte vom Rückenteil sein - gerne können Sie Markierungsfaden zwischen jedem Rapport einsetzen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Marita 20.05.2017 - 20:31:

Jeg forstår ikke overgangen mellom A3 og A5 på pinne 11. Her skal man starte ny hullmønsterrekke, men er det meningen å lage dobbelt kast? Og det blir bare 7 rettmasker mellom hullmønsterrekkene i første A5 rapport - dette vil jo synes godt etterhvert.

DROPS Design 24.05.2017 kl. 16:18:

Hei Marita. Hvis du strikker etter diagrammene så får du automatisk 9 masker glattstrik mellom hver hullrekke, hvis du er usikker på hvor diagrammet starter og slutter i ditt arbeid, så sett gjerne noen merketråde. God fornøyelse!

SIrina 12.05.2016 - 13:24:

Continuing: ... because the next row of the diagram A1 has in the middle of it : slip 1 as if to k, k 2 together, psso, so I believe this row needs to be knitted not purled, so the first row needs to be purled?

DROPS Design 12.05.2016 kl. 17:51:

Dear Slrina, see answer below. Happy knitting!

SIrina 12.05.2016 - 13:20:

Hello! What do I do with the st that is not there from the diagram A1? Do I slip it? Do I knit it? And another question: When I start diagram A1 do I k in the first row(is it the front of the work) or do I purl the row? I am wondering because the next row of the diagram has in the middle of the diagram

DROPS Design 12.05.2016 kl. 17:51:

Dear Slrina, start reading diagrams from the bottom corner on the right side towards the left from RS and from the left towards the right from WS - read more here. This mean, you are working each repeat of M.1 over 12 sts, dec 2 sts in each repeat, on 2nd row, you will have only 10 sts left in each repeat (= row 2 in M1 is worked from WS = P all sts). Happy knitting!

Julia 25.04.2016 - 03:14:

Hi, I am all done up till 25 cm, I couldn't continue on the pattern A4/A6, can you explain how should I start and look at the chart ? Thanks

DROPS Design 25.04.2016 kl. 10:29:

Dear Julia, in A.3 holes are going diagonally to the right, work then A.4 with holes going diagonally to the left (see diagrams) - and in A.5 holes were going diagonally to the left, work now A.6 with holes going diagonally to the right. Happy knitting!

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