DROPS / 153 / 7

Seascapes by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st in "Fabel" and "Delight". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no fa-264
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
150-200-200-200-250-250 g colour no 340, blue lagoon
And use:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
200-200-200-250-250-300 g colour no 04, light blue

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm (80 cm) - or size needed to get 21 sts x 40 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS, NO 522 (20 mm):
6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

STRIPES:
*1 ridge Fabel, 1 ridge Delight *, repeat from *-* the entire piece.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st before marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec 1 st after marker as follows: K 2 tog.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st on each side of every marker as follows: Work until 1 st remains before marker, make 1 YO, K 2 (marker is between these sts), make 1 YO. On next row K YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 184-200-220-240-264-288 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Delight. Work in GARTER ST and STRIPES - see explanation above. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 46-50-55-60-66-72 sts in from each side (back piece = 92-100-110-120-132-144 sts). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of each marker - READ DECREASE TIP ABOVE! Repeat every 2 cm a total of 8 times = 152-168-188-208-232-256 sts.
When piece measures 24 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker in each side - READ INCREASE TIP ABOVE. Repeat every 2-2-2½-2½-3-3 cm 6 times in total = 176-192-212-232-256-280 sts. When piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm, cast off 6 sts for armholes in each side (cast off 3 sts on each side of marker), and finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 82-90-100-110-122-134 sts. Then cast off for armholes in each side at beg of every row as follows: 2 sts 1-2-4-6-8-10 times and 1 st 0-1-1-1-2-3 times = 78-80-82-84-86-88 sts. When piece measures 54-56-58-59-61-63 cm, cast off the middle 30-30-30-32-32-34 sts for neck and finish each side separately. Continue to cast off 2 sts on next row towards the neck = 22-23-24-24-25-25 sts remain on the shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 41-45-50-55-61-67 sts. Cast off for armhole in the side as on back piece = 39-40-41-42-43-44 sts. When piece measures 47-49-50-52-53-55 cm, cast off sts for neck. Cast off 8-8-8-9-9-10 sts, then cast off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times = 22-23-24-24-25-25 sts remain on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 41-45-50-55-61-67 sts. Work as left front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 46-48-50-52-54-56 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Delight. Work in garter st and stripes as before. When piece measures 10 cm, inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side. Repeat every 3-2½-2½-2-1½-1½ cm 12-14-15-17-19-20 times in total = 70-76-80-86-92-96 sts. When piece measures 48-48-47-46-44-43 cm (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast off at the beg of every row for sleeve cap as follows: 4-4-4-3-3-3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3-4-4-4-4-4 times, 1 st 0-1-1-3-8-11 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 54-55-55-56-56-57 cm. Cast off 3 sts in each side, then cast off the remaining sts. Piece measures approx. 55-56-56-57-57-58 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves and sew sleeve seams.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up 94-108 sts from RS with Fabel on circular needle size 4 mm along neck edge. Work 1 ridge and cast off with K from WS.

RIGHT BAND:
Work back and forth on needle in garter st and stripes. Pick up 98-102-106-110-112-114 sts inside 1 edge st mid front on right front piece with Delight. K 1 row from WS. On next row from RS, dec for 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes as follows: K 7-6-5-8-4-6, * K 2 tog, make 1 loose YO, K 15-16-17-14-15-15 *, repeat from *-* 4-4-4-5-5-5 more times (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 times in total) and finish with K 2 tog, 1 YO and K 4. On next row K YOs. Continue in garter st and stripes until band measures approx. 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm, loosely cast off all sts.

LEFT BAND:
Work as right band but without buttonholes. Sew on buttons.


Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 153-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (55)

Marianne 12.03.2020 - 21:36:

Hallo, omdat eerdere patronen die ik heb gebreid wat kort uitvielen, wil ik deze graag een centimeter of 5 langer maken. Moet ik dan op 5cm + 4 beginnen met minderen of kan ik beter meer steken opzetten en vaker minderen (ik brei de L). Alvast bedankt

DROPS Design 22.03.2020 kl. 11:32:

Dag Marianne,

Als je het vest alleen langer wilt maken zou ik 5 cm later beginnen met meerderen. Als je hem ook breder wilt maken aan de onderkant zou ik inderdaad meer steken opzetten en eerder beginnen met minderen zodat je daarmee de extra opgezette steken mindert.

Sheila 20.11.2019 - 18:23:

Hi I'm picking up stitches on right band. Do I pick up from bottom or top edge, it says pick up inside 1edge st mid front so I'm a bit confused. Thanks,

DROPS Design 21.11.2019 kl. 08:48:

Dear Sheila, you will knit up the stitches from RS, ie from bottom to top on right front piece and from top to bottom on left front piece. The stitches are picked up inside the first stitch on edge - see for example this video showing how to pick stitches inside 1 edge stitch. Happy knitting!

Wietske Baars 05.10.2019 - 22:20:

Hallo, is het ook mogelijk dit vest op gewone pennen te breien ipv op een rondbreipen? Als dat inderdaad ook zou kunnen, kan u mij dan ook uitleggen hoe? Alvast hartelijk dank.

DROPS Design 06.10.2019 kl. 16:30:

Dag Wietske,

Ja, dat zou wel kunnen bij dit patroon. We hebben een instructie gemaat waarin staat hoe je een patroon aanpast om met rechte naalden te kunnen breien. Deze vindt je hier.

Anita Monsieur 11.09.2019 - 10:46:

Ikben bezig met de mouwen bij de minderingen moet ik dan aan de beide kanten minderen? Hoeveel steken blijven er over op het einde? Ik brei maat M Alvast bedankt

DROPS Design 13.09.2019 kl. 10:16:

Dag Anita,

Voor maat M minder je 1 keer 4 st + 4 keer 2 st. + 1 keer 1 st aan beide zijden. Dit zijn in totaal 26 steken waardoor je 50 steken over houd. Dan minder je steeds 2 steken aan beide kanten tot het werk 55 cm meet, waarna je nog een keer 3 steken afkant, voordat je de overgebleven steken afkant. Hoeveel steken je over houdt, hangt dus een beetje af van wanneer je op die 55 cm zit (dus je stekenverhouding in de hoogte)

Anna 24.04.2019 - 02:19:

Sleeve cap, pattern says “then cast off 2 sts in EACH SIDE until piece measures 54-55-55-56-56-57 cm.” Does this mean cast off at both ends of every row? My sleeve cap is very short if I do this.

DROPS Design 24.04.2019 kl. 07:48:

Hi Anna, You continue to cast off at the beginning of each row until you have finished the sleeve cap. Happy knitting!

Kathryn Bellamy 22.02.2019 - 13:03:

I am so sorry to be dense (I am a novice knitter) but my next row starts at the armhole end , so if I cast off at the start of the row here that looks odd. I have just started off in Fabel, knitted 25, cast off 30 and knitted 25. I now have two lots of 25 stitches separated by the neck. My next row is in Fabel, starting at the armhole. I am completely stuck!

DROPS Design 22.02.2019 kl. 15:04:

Dear Mrs Bellamy, after you have worked the row casting off the middle sts for neck, turn and work next row from armhole towards neck over 1st shoulder, then, at the beg of next row (= from neck towards armhole), cast off the first 2 sts, work row to the end = 25 sts remain. Then continue back and forth over these sts until finished measurements and cast off sts for 1st shoulder. Work now second shoulder over the remaining 25 sts the same way ie at the beg from first row from neck towards armhole, you will cast off 2 sts = 25 sts remain, continue until you have worked same length (= same number of rows) as for 1st shoulder and cast off. Happy knitting!

Kathryn Bellamy 21.02.2019 - 23:18:

Hello, I am just casting off the middle 30 stitches in the middle of the back piece. I have 25 stitches on my needle, then the neck section and another 25 stitches on the needle in my hand. Please could you explain the next instruction? “ Continue to cast off 2 sts on next row towards the neck ”. Thank you.

DROPS Design 22.02.2019 kl. 09:17:

Dear Mrs Bellamy, work now each shoulder separately, at the beginning of next row from neck towards armhole cast off 2 sts, then continue until piece measures 66-68 cm and cast off. Take the sts from other needle back on needle and work the same way, ie at the beg of row from neck towards armhole, cast off 2 sts and continue until piece measures 66-68 cm. Happy knitting!

Sheila Axworthy 31.05.2018 - 18:19:

Hi. Can I knit the sleeves by picking up from the shoulder and knitting down to the wrist? If so how should I adapt the pattern? Thanks Sheila

DROPS Design 01.06.2018 kl. 08:23:

Dear Mrs Axworthy, the sleeves are here shaped on the cap, so that it might be easier to work them bottom up as in the pattern. Happy knitting!

Kate Gaunt 25.04.2018 - 12:54:

Working on the back piece. It says to decrease 2 stitches at the start of the first 6 rows (size large) and 1 stitch at the start of the next row. This only decreases 13 stitches but I should be decreasing 26 from 110 to 84. Please help as I can\'t get any further without an answer. Thank you

DROPS Design 25.04.2018 kl. 13:41:

Dear Mrs Gaunt, you bind off for armholes at the beg of every row (= both from RS and from WS) 2 sts 4 times and 1 st 1 time (in size L), ie you will bind off 2 sts at the beg of next 8 rows (= 8 sts bound off on each side) and 1 st at the beg of next 2 rows (= 1 st bound off on each side) = a total of 18 sts will be bound off for armholes, there were 100 sts before armhole = 100-18= 82 sts remain. If you work size XL, bind off 2 sts at the beg of next 12 rows (= 12 sts bound off on each side) then 1 st at the beg of next 2 rows (= 2 sts bound off on each side), 110 sts - (12x2 + 2)= 84 sts remain. Happy knitting!

Sheila 17.01.2018 - 14:03:

Hi, does this pattern have a distinct right and wrong side? I think I've gone wrong as it seems to have switched sides. Thank you

DROPS Design 17.01.2018 kl. 14:18:

Dear Sheila, since you are working garter stitch with stripes alternating 2 kind of yarns and colours, right and wrong side will look differently. Happy knitting!

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