DROPS / 155 / 1

Cross My Heart by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st with short sleeves, short rows and stripes in ”Delight” and ”Alpaca”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no de-117
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
150-150-150-150-200-200 g colour no 17, raspberry cake
And use:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-150-150-150-200-200 g colour no 100, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 40 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

STRIPES:
* 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above - (= 2 rows) Delight, 1 ridge (= 2 rows) Alpaca *, repeat from *-*. NOTE: Make sure that the strands always are on WS of piece.

TIP FOR CHANGING YARN:
To make the colour transitions in Delight pretty when switching ball, it is important to find a ball that starts with the same colour last ball ended with.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right front piece from RS. 1 buttonhole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front, then make 1 YO. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 7, 13, 19, 25, 31 and 37 cm.
SIZE M: 10, 16, 22, 28, 34 and 40 cm.
SIZE L: 7, 14, 21, 28, 35 and 42 cm.
SIZE XL: 10, 16, 22, 28, 34, 40 and 46 cm
SIZE XXL: 7, 14, 21, 28, 35, 42 and 49 cm
SIZE XXXL: 11, 18, 25, 32, 39, 46 and 53 cm
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JACKET:
Worked in 4 parts, left and right back piece are sewn tog mid back when finished.

LEFT BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 44-48-52-56-64-68 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Delight. Work in STRIPES - see explanation above. When piece measures 7-7-7-8-7-8 cm, continue with stripes (adjust so that last row is from WS and that next stripe is with Alpaca) AT THE SAME TIME continue as follows:

Section 5
SHORT ROWS:
Row 1: Work until 2 st remains, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back.
Row 3: Work back but do not work the last 4 sts, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back.
Continue like this by working 2 sts less for every other row until the last 2 sts on row have been worked back and forth.
Work one ridge in garter st over all sts.

Section 6
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING – WORK SHORT ROWS AND DEC AT THE SAME TIME.
Row 1: Slip the first 2 sts loosely over on to right needle, pull yarn behind the 2 sts, work the remaining sts on row, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back but do not work the last 2 sts, turn piece.
Row 3: Slip the first 2 sts loosely over on to right needle, pull yarn behind the 2 sts, work the remaining sts on row, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back but do not work the last 4 sts, turn piece.
Continue like this with 2 sts less for every other row until 2 sts remain on left needle.
DECREASE:
Dec at the end of every row from RS with Delight (NOTE: Do not dec on first stripe with Delight in all sizes. In size S and XXL K tog the first 2 sts on last stripe with short rows so that 2 sts remain on row and in size L do not dec on last stripe with Delight) by K tog the last 2 sts until there are 36-40-44-46-52-56 sts on row (= 8-8-8-10-12-12 sts dec).

Section 7
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING – WORK SHORT ROWS AND INC AT THE SAME TIME.
The first 34-38-42-44-50-54 sts are on the right needle. Then work as follows:
Row 1: Work 2 sts, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back over the 2 sts.
Row 3: Slip 2 sts from right needle over on needle, work the 4 sts, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back over the 4 sts.
Continue like this with 2 sts more for every other row until all sts have been slipped on to same needle and 1 ridge has been worked over all sts.
INCREASE:
Inc at the end of every row from RS with Delight (NOTE: Inc the same way as dec. Do not inc on first stripe with Delight in all sizes. In size L do not inc on last stripe Delight) by working 2 sts in the last st until there are 44-48-52-56-64-68 sts on needle (= 8-8-8-10-12-12 sts inc).

Section 8
Row 1: Work the first 2 sts, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back over these 2 sts, turn piece.
Row 3: Work the first 4 sts, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back over these 4 sts, turn piece.
Continue like this with 2 sts more for every other row - repeat until 1 ridge has been worked over all sts.

Now work stripes over all sts until finished measurements.

Work until piece measures 34-36-38-41-44-47 cm. Then inc for sleeve at the end of every row from RS in the left side of piece (seen from RS) as follows: Inc 1 st 0-1-2-3-3-1 time, then 2 sts 5-4-3-2-0-0 times. On next row from RS, inc 5-4-3-2-0-0 sts = 59-61-63-65-67-69 sts on needle. NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders. When piece measures 48-51-54-58-62-66 cm, cast off for neck at the beg of first row from RS in right side of piece (seen from RS) as follows: Cast off 17-17-18-18-19-19 sts = 42-44-45-47-48-50 sts remain on needle, then on next row from RS cast off 1 st = 41-43-44-46-47-49 sts remain on needle. Cast off when piece measures 50-53-56-60-64-68 cm.

RIGHT BACK PIECE:
TIP FOR CHANGING YARN - above.
Work as left back piece but reversed. Inc for sleeve in right side of piece (seen from RS). Cast off for neck in left side of piece (seen from RS). Work short rows as follows:

Section 1
Row 1: Slip the first 2 sts loosely over on to right needle, pull yarn behind the 2 sts, work the remaining sts on row, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back but do not work the last 2 sts, turn piece.
Row 3: Slip the first 2 sts loosely over on to right needle, pull yarn behind the 2 sts, work the remaining sts on row, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back but do not work the last 4 sts, turn piece.
Continue like this by working 2 sts less for every other row until 2 rows have been worked over the last 2 sts. Cut the yarn. Then work 1 ridge over all sts with 1st row = RS.

Section 2
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING – WORK SHORT ROWS AND DEC AT THE SAME TIME.
SHORT ROWS:
Row 1: Work until 2 st remains, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back.
Row 3: Work back but do not work the last 4 sts, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back.
Continue like this with 2 sts less for every other row until 2 sts remain on right needle.
DECREASE:
Dec at the beg of every row from RS with Delight (NOTE: Do not dec on first stripe with Delight in all sizes. In size S and XXL K tog the first 2 sts on last stripe with short rows so that 2 sts remain on row and in size L do not dec on last stripe with Delight) by K tog the last 2 sts until there are 36-40-44-46-52-56 sts on row (= 8-8-8-10-12-12 sts dec).

Section 3
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING – WORK SHORT ROWS AND INC AT THE SAME TIME.
SHORT ROWS:
Row 1: Work the first 2 sts, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back over these 2 sts, turn piece.
Row 3: Work the first 4 sts, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back over these 4 sts, turn piece.
Continue like this with 2 sts more for every other row - repeat until 1 ridge has been worked over all sts.
INCREASE:
Inc at the beg of every row from RS with Delight (NOTE: Inc the same way as dec. Do not inc on first stripe with Delight in all sizes. In size L do not inc on last stripe Delight) by working 2 sts in the last st until there are 44-48-52-56-64-68 sts on needle (= 8-8-8-10-12-12 sts inc). Cut the yarn.

Section 4
The first 34-38-42-44-50-54 sts are on the right needle. Then work as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): Work 2 sts, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back over the 2 sts.
Row 3: Slip 2 sts from right needle over on needle, work the 4 sts, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back over the 4 sts.
Continue like this with 2 sts more for every other row until all sts have been slipped on to same needle and 1 ridge has been worked over all sts.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right back piece. When piece measures 38-41-43-47-50-54 cm, cast off for neck at beg of every row from WS in left side of piece (seen from RS) as follows: Cast off 7 sts 1 time, then 2 sts 3 times, then 1 st 5-5-6-6-7-7 times = 41-43-44-46-47-49 sts remain on needle. AT THE SAME TIME inc for sleeve as on right back piece. Cast off when piece measures 50-53-56-60-64-68 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as left back piece but dec for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. When piece measures 38-41-43-47-50-54 cm, cast off for neck at beg of every row from RS in right side of piece (seen from RS) as follows: Cast off 7 sts 1 time, then 2 sts 3 times, then 1 st 5-5-6-6-7-7 times = 41-43-44-46-47-49 sts remain on needle. AT THE SAME TIME inc for sleeve as on left back piece. Cast off when piece measures 50-53-56-60-64-68 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew right back piece to left back piece. Sew shoulder and side seams. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 25.04.2014
There are NO mistakes in the pattern in the catalogue, but in the updated online version we used simpler and more detailed explanations.

Diagram

= knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 155-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (355)

Beata 10.04.2019 - 19:01:

W sekcji 4 liczba oczek na prawym drucie powinna wynosić tyle ile pozostaje po zakończeniu sekcji 3 minus 2 oczka umieszczone na lewym drucie, czyli 42-46-50-54-62-66 "pierwsze oczka są na prawym drucie".

Louise 26.03.2019 - 13:56:

Hej! Får tröjan ett slätstickat eller ett rätstickat utseende?

DROPS Design 02.04.2019 kl. 10:56:

Hei Louise. Det strikker i rettstrikkning / riller. God fornøyelse

Inger Holzmann 26.07.2018 - 13:07:

Fejlen i afsnit 7 og afsnit 4 - stadig ikke rettet! Det undrer mig, at fejlen ikke er forstået af jer? Begge steder er problemet antallet af masker. Man slutter med at have i alt 44 masker i str S I afsnit 6 og 3 skal man slutte med 2 masker tilbage på venstre pind I afsnit 7 og 4 står der, at man har 34 masker på højre pind - det passer jo simpelthen ikke. Man har 44-2=42 masker. Resten af forklaringen passer derefter fint.

Maia M. 23.07.2018 - 22:07:

Hallo, bei Größe L hat mir die empfohlene Menge von 150 g Alpaka nicht gereicht. Und für Delight würde ich ebenso für alle Größen 200g/ 4 Knäuel empfehlen. Ansonsten muss für das 4. Teil aus Resten von 3 Knäueln der passende Farbverlauf zusammengestückelt werden.

Berit Hansen 28.03.2018 - 03:06:

Jeg har meget svært ved at få farverne til at blive symmetriske i de 4 stykker. Kan det passe at farveskiftene i Delight ikke har et ens forløb selvom man bruger samme indfarvning?

DROPS Design 12.04.2018 kl. 16:06:

Hej Berit, ja det stemmer, således står der i farvekortet: DROPS Delight ser ud som den er "håndspundet" med små variationer af tynde og tykke partier, de lækre farver er skabt med teknikken “magic print”, den giver fantastiske farvekombinationer, med bløde overgange som danner helt unikke mønstre og schatteringer. Det betyder også at man i samme parti kan opleve både mørke og lysere variationer. Dette er ikke en fejl, men en del av garnets egenskaber.

Oriola 27.03.2018 - 13:36:

Hello. Do you have any instructions for a longer sleeves version? Thank you

DROPS Design 28.03.2018 kl. 15:06:

Dear Mrs Oriola, this pattern is only available with short sleeves. Happy knitting!

Karen Margrete Madsen 06.03.2018 - 13:15:

Jeg kan åbenbart ikke forklare problemet - er der et sted, hvor man kan lægge et foto op?

Karen Margrete Madsen 28.01.2018 - 16:26:

Vedr, afsnit 6+7 Jeg kan godt finde ud af, hvordan man gør - men har problemer med masker, der bliver alt for lange og grimme, Det drejer sig om de to masker, som man løfter over på den anden pind og trækker garnet bag. Hvordan får jeg disse masker til at se ud, som de andre?

DROPS Design 12.02.2018 kl. 15:41:

Hej Karen Marie, har du se de 2 videoer som viser hvordan vi gör, du Finder dem nederst på siden under serve opskriften. God fornöjelse!

Annie 05.11.2017 - 17:13:

Stickar stl M och börjar med 48 m. Modellen har 44m vad jag har räknat ut. Men varför har modellen 15 v alpacka (vit) och mönstret ger 7? 7 cm motsvarar enbart mudd och på modellen börjar diagonalen betydligt högre upp? Stämmer mönstret? Vill inte repa upp igen då garnet inte kommer att klara en det utan att ta skada.

DROPS Design 05.12.2017 kl. 14:23:

Hej, du måste följa mönstret och hålla stickfastheten, om du gör det får du samma mått som på måttskissen. Lycka till!

Annie 20.09.2017 - 11:47:

Du säger att storlekarna står längst ner i beskrivningen men det gör det inte. Eller så får jag inte ihop det. Jag har 96cm över bysten vilken storlek ska jag välja? M eller S?

DROPS Design 20.09.2017 kl. 12:53:

Hei Annie. Du finner målskissen nederst på oppskriften. På målskissen finner du de ulike mål til 6 størrelse, både vidden nederst/over brystet(samme som vidden nederst), skuldervidde med erm, lengden mm. God Fornøyelse!

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