DROPS Ull-Tweed
DROPS Ull-Tweed
100% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Children 9-9
Size, months: 6/9- 12/18
Size, years: 2- 3/4 (5/6- 7/8- 9/10- 11/12)

Size in cm: 62/68- 74/80- 86/92- 98/104 (110/116-122/128- 134/140- 146/152)

Materials: GARNSTUDIO's Karisma Uld-Tweed
100% pure new wool, 50 g = approx 110 m.
250-250-300-300 (350-400-400-450) g colour no 04, deep red

DROPS Circular needle and double pointed needles size 3 mm and 4 mm.
DROPS Coconut button no 516: 2 pcs. (for the slit on the back of the 2 smallest sizes)

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Ull-Tweed
DROPS Ull-Tweed
100% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 20 sts x 26 rows on needle size 4 in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. Remember the needle sizes are guidelines only!
Rib edge: * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*.
Garter st (on circular needle): 1st round: P. 2nd round: K.

Back and front pieces: Cast on 112-124-136-144 (152-164-172-184) sts on circular needle size 3 mm with deep red and knit 8 rows garter st. Insert a marking thread each side. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and continue in stocking sts – remember the knitting tension! At the same time inc each side as follows:
Sizes 6/9 - 12/18 months: No inc for these two sizes.
Size 2 years: When piece measures 15 cm inc1 st on each side of both marking threads (= 4 new sts).
Size 3/4 years: When piece measures 8 and 18 cm inc1 st on each side of both marking threads (= 8 new sts).
Sizes 5/6- 7/8- 9/10- 11/12 years: When the piece measures 4 cm inc1 st on each side of both marking threads. Repeat the inc 5-5-6-6 times on every 5-6-5-5 cm (= 4 new sts per increase).
Now there are 112-124-140-152 (172-184-196-208) sts on needle. When piece measures 19-22-26-28 (30-34-35-35) cm slip 8 sts each side on a thread for armhole (= 4 sts on each side of the marking thread) = 96-108-124-136 (156-168-180-192) sts on the needle. Put the piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve: Cast on 40-40-44-44 (48-48-52-52) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm in deep red. Knit Rib - see explanation above - for 4-4-4-4 (5-5-5-5) cm. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and continue in stocking st. At the same time, inc 2 sts mid under arm: 4-6-4-8 (8-10-10-14) times on every 11-8-15-8 (9-8-9-6) rounds = 48-52-52-60 (64-68-72-80) sts. When piece measures 21-23-27-30 (33-37-40-42) cm slip 8 sts mid under arm on a thread = 40-44-44-52 (56-60-64-72) sts on needle.

Yoke: Slip the sleeves onto the same circular needle as the jersey where 8 sts has been put on the thread for armhole = 176-196-212-240 (268-288-308-336) sts on needle.
Insert a marking thread in all transitions between sleeves and jersey = 4 marking threads.

Read all of the next section before knitting !
Continue in stocking sts, at the same time after 2-1-4-3 (3-3-3-3) rounds dec for raglan as follows:

Dec for raglan on both sides of all 4 marking threads = 8 decreases of 2 sts per round (= 16 sts dec per round).
There are 4 stocking sts between each dec (i.e. 2 sts on each side of MT).
Dec 2 sts as follows from the RS:
start 5 sts before the marking threads: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso, K2.
After the marking threads: K2, K3 tog.

Note! After dec for neck the piece is finished back and forth on needle and dec are also made from thw WS.
Dec 2 sts as follows from the WS:
start 5 sts before the marking threads: P3 tog into back of sts, P2.
After the marking threads: P2, P3 tog into back of st.

Dec as follows:
Size 6/9 - 12/18 months:
Dec 2 sts each side of MT on every 4th round: 6-7 times.

Size 2 - 3/4 (5/6- 7/8- 9/10- 11/12) years:
Dec 2 sts each side of MT on every 4th round: 3-3 (3-3-2-1) times and then on every 3rd round 2 sts 5-7 (8-9-11-14) times.

At the same time when there are 6 rounds left of raglan dec, cast off for neck on front piece and for slit on back piece (for the 2 smallest sizes) as follows: Slip the middle 8-10-12-12 (14-16-18-18) sts on front on a thread for neck and finish the piece back and forth on needle. At the same time (for the 2 smallest sizes) cast of the 2 middle sts on back piece for slit, cast on 3 new sts each side of the slit and knit these in garter sts until finished measurements. Continue slipping 2 sts on the thread at front to shape the neckline on every other row a total of 2 times. Now put all sts back on needle = 84-88-84-80 (92-96-100-96) sts.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit stocking sts – however, on the 2 smallest sizes knit back and forth from the slit mid back – at the same time dec 20-14-8-0 (10-8-8-0) sts evenly over the 1st round/row = 64-74-76-80 (82-88-92-96) sts. For the 2 smallest sizes: continue with 3 garter sts towards the slit mid back and cast off for 1 buttonhole after 0.5 cm and again after 2.5 cm - 1 button hole = cast off the middle of the 3 garter sts from RS and make a yo over the cast of st on the return row. When neck edge measures 3-3-3-3 (4-4-4-4) cm cast off – the neck will now roll.

Assembly: Sew the openings under the arms with mattress sts to ensure the seam becomes elastic. On the 2 smallest sizes sew the bottom of the slit and sew on the buttons.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Sarah wrote:

I have 8 stitches on a thread for each arm and each side of the sweater. I don’t understand what to do with these stitches. I have all the arm and body stitches on a circular needle but have these other stitches left on threads. Thank you.

18.04.2023 - 04:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sarah, you slip 8 sts for each armhole on a thread when working body and then when working sleeve you also slip 8 sts on a thread, when yoke is done, the 8 sts on each sleeve will be sewn together to the 8 sts on the side of the body to close the hole. Happy knitting!

18.04.2023 - 10:13

country flag Kuyle wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai fait la taille 2 ans ,je suis au col , comment reprendre les 20 m en attente sans avoir un trou , un pli ? j'ai 5 cm de hauteur sur les 64 m tricotées en aller/retour et j'ai bien mes 20 m en attente ! Je ne comprends pas du tout ! Cordialement .

01.03.2023 - 17:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Kuyle, il ne doit pas y avoir de décalage entre les mailles en attente pour l'encolure e les mailles restantes du raglan car on forme l'encolure quand il reste 6 diminutions à faire (les 6 rangs nécessaires pour former l'encolure), vous avez donc bien 84 mailles au total, tricotez 1 tour en diminuant 8 m = 76 mailles, et tricotez en jersey pendant 3 cm et rabattez toutes les mailles pour former la bordure roulotée du col. Bon tricot!

02.03.2023 - 09:28

country flag Diane Lorello wrote:

I am confused about the stitch count at the neck edge. I am knitting size 2. The starting stitch count where sleeves and neck are joined is 212. Following instructions there are 8 decrease 2 rounds for a total of 64 stitches decreased. 212-64=148 stitches remaining. The instructions indicate 84 stitches are to be used at the start of the neck. How/where are the remaining 64 stitches decreased?

01.01.2023 - 05:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Lorello, you should decrease 16 sts on each decrease round (2 sts on each side of each marker) a total of 8 times = 8x16= 128 sts will be decreased for raglan; there were 212 sts - 128 sts = 84 sts remain. Happy knitting!

03.01.2023 - 09:57

country flag Deb wrote:

Another Anton for children 9-9 sweater question here…. this has been such a confusing pattern to follow. After knitting in the round for 35 cm, pattern says to slip 8 stitches on either side for armhole onto a marking thread. Do I knit to the other marker to do the same thing on other side? Can’t slip stitches otherwise. Would this not be doing only another half round? Or do I continue to my first marker again? Never had issues knitting sweaters before!

05.10.2022 - 23:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Deb, To avoid cutting the strand, work the first 8 stitches before placing them on a thread, work to the other side of the jumper and work the second 8 stitches before placing them on a thread, then finish the round. Happy knitting!

06.10.2022 - 07:00

country flag Debra wrote:

Another question on this pattern…what kind of increase is used on each side of marker? A KFB, a M1? It does not say on instructions. Thanks!

09.09.2022 - 15:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Debra, feel free to use the technique you rather for the increases on the sides. Happy knitting!

09.09.2022 - 15:42

country flag Deb wrote:

On Anton sweater, size 9/10 it says to increase when piece measures 1 1/2 “ then increase on either side of marker 6 times on every 5 cm. Is this correct or should it be every 5th round?

03.09.2022 - 03:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deb, yes, it's correct, you increase every 5 cm. Happy knitting!

04.09.2022 - 23:12

country flag Debra wrote:

I am assuming this sweater is entirely knitted in the round? Also, the pattern says to knit 8 rows garter ( at the beginning) …..does it mean 8 rounds? Also it says insert a marking thread each side….each side of what? I am confused. Thank you!

30.08.2022 - 16:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Debra, each side means the sides of the body (right and left sides, under armhole), so that you later on increase equally on the sides, the same amount of stitches for the front and back. You knit the whole sweater in the round, so the first "rows" are actually rounds, since you aren't turning the work. Happy knitting!

30.08.2022 - 23:14

country flag Adele Woolley wrote:

This pattern is the most confusingI have ever read. i have knitted all of the jersey (2 yr) and sleeves and have all stitches on the needle and am now about to start raglan decreases. What does it mean Note! After dec for neck the piece is finished back and forth (what does this mean? - I have it on circular needles!) ... and later on 'at the same time where there are 6 rounds left of raglan dec ... (how do I know how many are left???) this entire paragraph is totally confusing... please help,

18.04.2022 - 12:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Woolley, the yoke is worked in the round but you will cast off stitches for neck and then continue back and forth on the circular needle. In 2 years you decrease for raglan at total of 3 times on every 4th row and then a total of 5 times on every 3rd row = after you have decreased 2 times on every 4th row (6 decrases remain for the raglan), slip the middle stitches on a thread and continue working in rows decreasing for raglan as explained, and cast off at the same time for neck 2 stitches 2 times on every 2nd row (= from RS as well as from WS). Happy knitting!

19.04.2022 - 11:36

country flag Tina wrote:

Hej! När ska de 8 maskorna som satts på tråd avmaskas? Vad menas med att 8 maskor ska sättas på en tråd mitt under ärmen? Ärmen ska väl sys ihop , menas det då 4 maskor i var sida? Fattar inte alls, mycket otydligt mönster tycker jag, men jag är inte så van tröjstickare Hälsningar Tina

03.02.2022 - 10:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tina. Du sätter 8 maskor på en tråd på bålen i varje sida. När du stickat ärmarna sätter du 8 maskor på varje ärm på tråd mitt under ärmen. När du sätter in ärmarna på samma sticka som bålen ska maskorna på tråd hamna på samma plats på ärm och bål. När du sedan ska sy ihop under ärmarna kan du se hur du gör i denna video för att få en osynlig söm. Mvh DROPS Design

04.02.2022 - 12:13

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Hallo, Ga je de mouwen op een rondbreinaald starten? Er staat ; zet een markeerdraad op begin en eind? Snap ik niet en dan ; wat wordt er bedoeld met ‘ ga verder met tricotsteek in de rondte ‘ ?

13.11.2021 - 19:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ingrid,

Je breit de mouw in de rondte en je zet een markeerdraad tussen de eerste en de laatste steek. Dit is midden onder de mouw.

23.11.2021 - 13:05