Twirly Girlie by DROPS Design

Knitted dress with round yoke and skirt in garter st worked from side to side with short rows, in DROPS Fabel. Size children 3 to 12 years

DROPS design: Pattern no FA-014-bn
Yarn group A
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
200-200-250-350-400 colour no 623pl, rose mist.
50 g for all sizes in colour no 102, pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st and 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm – for edges.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram A-1, diagram shows pattern from RS.

DECREASE TIP (applies to round yoke):
Dec alternately before and after all markers by K 2 tog.
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DRESS:
Beg by working the skirt back and forth on circular needle from side to side. To give the skirt width at the bottom work with short rows. Then work the yoke in stocking st with round yoke.

LOOSELY cast on 84-92-100-108-116 sts on 2 circular needles size 3 mm with 623, rose mist. Pull out one of the needles (to avoid a tight cast on edge or cast on on a thicker needle).
The whole skirt is worked in garter st, i.e. K all rows.
Work first row as follows (from waist down = WS):
K 12 sts, insert a marker, * K 8 sts, insert a marker *, repeat from *-* the entire row = a total of 9-10-11-12-13 markers, there are 8 sts after the last marker.
Move the markers alongside when working.
K 1 row over all sts from bottom and up.
Continue with short rows as follows (tighten the thread on every turn in mid of piece before continuing, to avoid holes):
* K 2 rows (= 1 ridge) with pink back and forth over all sts (1st row = WS), switch to rose mist, K 11 rows (= a total of 6,5 ridges) back and forth over all sts. Continue with rose mist as follows: Work until first marker, turn and work back. Work until second marker, turn and work back. Continue like this until it has been worked up to last marker, turn and work back. K 1 row over all sts from bottom and up *.
I.e. 1 repetition (*-*) = 7 ridges at the top and 16-17-18-19-20 ridges at the bottom.
Repeat from *-* until piece measures approx. 60-64-68-72-76 cm in the shortest side (= top) – measure when piece is flat on the table – finish after 1 whole repetition, cast off all sts VERY LOOSELY with rose mist. Piece measures approx. 137-155-175-195-217 cm in the longest side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog skirt mid back – sew cast on edge against cast off edge, edge to edge to get a flat seam.

TOP:
Beg mid back and knit up 1 st in every ridge (2 rows in garter st) around the entire opening of the skirt on circular needle size 2.5 mm with pink.
P 1 round, then K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 144-153-162-171-180 sts. Then work diagram A-1 (= 16-17-18-19-20 repetitions on the round). After A-1, K 1 round and P 1 round. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and rose mist and continue in stocking st – AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd round dec 4-3-2-1-0 sts evenly = 140-150-160-170-180 sts.
When piece measures 7-8-9-10-11 cm (from where sts were knitted up for top) work next round as follows: Work 32-34-36-38-40 sts, cast off 6-7-8-9-10 sts for armhole, work 64-68-72-76-80 sts, cast off 6-7-8-9-10 sts for armhole, work 32-34-36-38-40 sts. Put piece aside and knit the sleeve edges.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 56-59-62-65-68 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with pink. K 3 rows back and forth (1st row = WS). Work next row as follows: Cast off 3-4-4-5-5 sts, work 50-52-54-56-58 sts, cast off the last 3-3-4-4-5 sts. Cut the thread, put piece aside and work another sleeve edge.

YOKE:
Slip sleeve edges on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 228-240-252-264-276 sts. Insert 12 markers in the piece, 19-20-21-22-23 sts apart.
Continue with rose mist and in stocking st – round still beg mid back. Work 4-4-6-6-8 rounds before dec beg. On next round dec 1 st before all markers - SEE DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 4th round a total of 7-8-8-9-9 times and then every other round a total of 3 times for all sizes = 108-108-120-120-132 sts.
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Now work an elevation in back of neck, back and forth on needle from mid back as follows: K 8 sts, turn and P 16 sts on return, turn, K 24 sts, turn, P 32 sts, continue by working 8 sts more on every turn until a total of 64-64-80-80-96 sts have been worked, turn and K until marker mid back again (i.e. 32-32-40-40-48 sts). Then K 1 round over all sts while at the same time dec 22-16-22-16-22 sts evenly = 86-92-98-104-110 sts.
Switch to pink and K 1 round, P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round, then loosely cast off with K.
The entire dress measures approx. 54-59-65-70-75 cm up to shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve edge tog in front loop of outermost st and sew opening under the sleeves, edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 10.10.2012
DRESS:... Move the markers along when working.
K 1 row over all sts from bottom and up.
Continue with short rows as follows (to avoid holes tighten the yarn at every turn before continuing):
* with pink K 2 rows (= 1 ridge) back and forth over all sts (1st row = WS), switch to rose mist, K 11 rows (= 5.5 ridges) back and forth over all sts. Continue with rose mist as follows: Work until first marker, turn and work back. Work until second marker, turn and work back. Continue like this until it has been worked up to last marker, turn and work back. K 1 row over all sts from bottom and up *.
I.e. 1 repetition (*-*) = 7 ridges at the top and 16-17-18-19-20 ridges at the bottom.
Updated online: 14.11.2012
TOP:
Beg mid back and knit up 1 st in every ridge (2 rows in garter st) around the entire opening of the skirt on circular needle size 2.5 mm with pink. .....

SLEEVE EDGE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 56-59-62-65-68 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with pink. ...

YOKE:
...Continue with rose mist and in stocking st – round still beg mid back. Work 4-4-6-6-8 rounds before dec beg. On next round dec 1 st before all markers - SEE DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 4th round a total of 7-8-8-9-9 times and then every other round a total of 3 times for all sizes = 108-108-120-120-132 sts.
...Switch to pink and K 1 round, P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round, then loosely cast off with K.
Updated online: 07.12.2018
New yarn amount in the main color in size 9/10 - 11/12 years.
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
200-200-250-350-400 colour no 623pl, rose mist.

Diagram

= K from RS
= K 2 tog, 1 YO
= 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, 1 YO

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 23-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (55)

Leena 17.06.2020 - 07:35:

Hi, I am confused about the top part of skirt.the pattern says we work back and forth gradually from each marker and then stop after last marker.the pink yarn makes 2 rows and 1 row for last knit that goes all the up and down then how would it create 7 ridges?

DROPS Design 17.06.2020 kl. 08:30:

Dear Leena, the top part of the skirt is the end of the rows, seen from RS, ie after you have worked the short rows, you will have worked 7 ridges on the top (= 1 ridge with pinkt + 5,5 ridges with rose mist + 1 row from the bottom to the top (= half a ridge) after the short rows = there are now 7 ridges towards waist. Happy knitting!

Karen 12.05.2020 - 12:25:

Pigen som jeg skal strikke til vil helst have kjolen strikket op i ren bomuld. Der er ikke noget der svarer helt til løbelængde og strikkefasthed, hvad kan I foreslå? Måske cotton 8/4 Lammy eller Safran?

DROPS Design 15.05.2020 kl. 08:56:

Hej Karen, DROPS Safran og DROPS Loves You #7 tilhører begge samme garngruppe A og kan strikkes på samme strikkefashed som DORPS Fabel. Sørg for at du får samme strikkefasthed som der står i selve opskriften, for at få de rigtige mål. God fornøjelse!

Pia Toft Sand 16.10.2019 - 14:46:

Forstår jeg det rigtigt, at det egl. Er vrangsiden af skørtet, der bliver retsiden. Således at striberne ikke bliver “rene og tydelige” striber? Vh Pia

DROPS Design 16.10.2019 kl. 15:22:

Hej Pia, du kan vælge den side af arbejdet du synes bedst om, bare du sørger for at få vendepindene=vidden nederst i nederdelen. God fornøjelse!

CreAttivamente Lulù 03.08.2019 - 21:13:

Non ho capito l\'ultimo passaggio \"Proseguire con il colore foschia rosa e lavorare 1 giro a dir, 1 giro a rov, 1 giro a dir, 1 giro a rov; intrecciare poi le m a dir, senza stringere troppo il filo.\" Stavo già lavorando con il colore \"foschia rosa\", cosa devo fare? Grazie

DROPS Design 03.08.2019 kl. 21:37:

Buongiorno Lulù. Abbiamo corretto il testo. Deve lavorare con il colore rosa. Buon lavoro!

Helen 18.07.2019 - 02:59:

It would be great to get a long sleeved version of this! how much extra wool would be required for this? any suggestions on how many stitches and length would be much appreciated :)

DROPS Design 18.07.2019 kl. 10:34:

Dear Helen, we are unfortunately not able to adapt every pattern to every single request. You can find inspiration from pattern with circular yoke and long sleeve, for any further individual assistance please contact the store where you bought the yarn, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

Elli 13.03.2019 - 11:24:

Kann man kein Video von dem Kleid herstellen? Die Anleitung ist schwer zu verstehen!

DROPS Design 13.03.2019 kl. 12:17:

Liebe Elli, es würde leider etwas kompliziert, so ein Video herzustellen - zuerst stricken Sie den Rock quer mit verkürzten Reihen dann werden die Maschen für das Oberteil aufgefassen und von unten nach oben gestrickt. Gerne können Sie auch hier Ihre Frage stellen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Bärbel 03.02.2019 - 19:31:

Sie schreiben, der Rapport besteht oben aus 7 Krausrippen und unten aus 17 Krausrippen bei einer Größe von 110/116. Ich bekomme aber oben nur 6 Krausrippen und unten nur 16 Krausrippen. Ich habe sehr oft neu angefangen und immer das gleiche Ergebnis. Was mache ich falsch?

DROPS Design 04.02.2019 kl. 13:25:

Liebe Bärbel, Sie stricken: 2 Reihe über alle M + 11 Reihe über alle M + 2 Reihe bis 1. Markierer + 2 Reihe bis 2. Markierer + 2 Reihe bis 3. Markierer + 2 Reihen bis 4. Markierer + 2 Reihe bis 5. Markierer + 2 Reihe bis 6. Markierer + 2 Reihe bis 7. Markierer + 2 Reihe bis 8. Markierer + 2 Reihe bis 9. Markierer + 1 Reihe bis 10. Markierer + 1 Reihe über alle Maschen = 34 Reihen (= 7 Krausrippen oben und 17 Krausrippen unten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

ELI OBERLAENDER 17.06.2018 - 14:56:

En faisant mon échantillon le nb de mailles soit 24 font effectivement 10 cm de large\\\\r\\\\n mais les rangs eux font 9 cm \\\\r\\\\nsolution?

DROPS Design 18.06.2018 kl. 08:42:

Bonjour Mme Oberlaender, si vous n'arrivez pas à la bonne tension en hauteur avec des aiguilles plus grosses (tout en gardant le bon nombre en largeur), vous pouvez conserver cette tension, toutefois, veillez à bien ajuster la jupe (et les rangs raccourcis) à la longueur indiquée sous les explications (en cm et non en rangs).Pour éviter que l'empiècement ne soit trop court, tricotez des tours supplémentaires sans diminutions à espaces réguliers entre les ceux de diminutions (en vous calquant sur votre tension). Votre magasin saura vous apporter toute assistance complémentaire. Bon tricot!

Carolin 09.04.2018 - 15:15:

Liebes Dropsteam, ich würde gern wissen, ob die Maschenproben für die Muster vor dem Zählen gewaschen werden müssen, oder ob die Zahlen für die "trocken" gestrickte Maschenprobe gelten. Danke im Voraus.

DROPS Design 09.04.2018 kl. 16:07:

Liebe Carolin, am besten waschen Sie und lassen Sie immer Ihre Mascheprobe trocknen, und dann die Nadelgröße anpassen, ob es nötig ist. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Jessica 16.03.2018 - 19:24:

Liebes Dropsteam, schon zu Beginn der Strickanleitung habe ich ein Problem, denn egal wie oft ich nachzähle, bei 116 Maschen und der Abfolge 12 Maschen, Markierer, 8 Maschen usw. komme ich niemals auf 13 Markierer, sondern auf 10 Markierer bei 120 angeschlagenen Maschen. Wo habe ich einen Denkfehler?

DROPS Design 19.03.2018 kl. 09:00:

Liebe Jessica, So setzen Sie die Markierungen: 12 M stricken, 1 Markierung, (8 M stricken, 1 Markierung) von (bis) insgesamt 12 x über die nächsten 96 M wiederholen, und die letzte 8 Maschen stricken = 13 Markierungen über die 116 M (12+ 8x12 + 8). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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