DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Meredith

Knitted DROPS jacket with edge in lace pattern in 2 threads ”Kid-Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 141-20
DROPS design: Pattern no ks-067
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
Colour no 05, heather:
175-200-200-225-250-275 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 2 threads Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm – for garter st.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to dec in the sides):
All dec are done from RS.
Dec 1 st at beg of row as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec 1 st at end of row as follows: Work until 3 sts remain on needle, K the next 2 sts tog, 1 edge st in garter st.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to dec on neckline):
All dec are done from RS.
Dec 1 st before marker on left front piece as follows: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, K the next 2 sts tog, K 1 (marker), work band sts.
Dec 1 st after marker on right front piece as follows: Work band sts, (marker), then K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, work the rest of row.

TUBE KNITTING:
K 1 row = 6 sts on needle, now the thread is on the left side of needle. Then work as follows: * Slide all sts to the right side of double pointed needle without turning the piece, tighten thread and K over all sts *, repeat from *-*. When tube has been worked, do not cast off but cut the threads and pull thread ends through all sts, fasten the threads.
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BACK:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 70-78-84-92-102-112 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) with 2 threads Kid-Silk on needle size 4.5 mm. Work in GARTER ST - see explanation above - for 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm (1st row = RS). On next row from RS, switch to needle size 5 mm and continue in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. NOTE! Edge sts in the sides are worked in garter st until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm, dec 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side - Read DECREASE TIP 1. Repeat dec every 4 cm 2 more times (= 3 dec in total) = 64-72-78-86-96-106 sts. Continue until piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm. On next row from RS, inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 7 cm 2 more times (= 3 inc in total) = 70-78-84-92-102-112 sts.
Continue until piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm. Then cast off for armholes at the beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-2-2-3-4 times and 1 st 2-4-3-2-4-5 times = 56-60-64-68-70-74 sts. Continue until piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Then cast off the middle 22-22-24-24-26-26 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. On next row from neck, cast off 1 st = 16-18-19-21-21-23 sts remain on shoulder. Loosely cast off all sts when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 45-49-52-56-61-66 sts (incl 1 edge st) with 2 threads Kid-Silk on needle size 4.5 mm. K 2 rows (1st row = RS). Insert 1 marker before the last 10 sts seen from RS (= 10 band sts towards mid front), move the marker upwards when working. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION FOR LEFT FRONT PIECE BEFORE CONTINUING.
Then work lace pattern over the 10 band sts towards mid front, and in garter st over the other sts for 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): Work until 10 sts remain on row, (marker), K 1, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 3, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, cast on 1 st = 11 sts from marker.
Row 2 (= WS): K 2, 1 YO, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 7 = 12 sts from marker, work the rest of row.
Row 3: Work until 12 sts remain on row, (marker), K 1, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 5, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, cast on 1 st = 13 sts from marker.
Row 4: K 2, 1 YO, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 9 = 14 sts from marker, work the rest of row.
Row 5: Work until 14 sts remain on row, (marker), K 1, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 7, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, cast on 1 st = 15 sts from marker.
Row 6: K 2, 1 YO, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 11 = 16 sts from marker, work the rest of row.
Row 7: Work until 16 sts remain on row, (marker), K 1, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 9, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 16 sts from marker.
Row 8 (= WS): K 1, 1 YO, K the next 2 tog, K 13 = 16 sts from marker - NOTE! Turn piece, work short rows here.
Row 9 (= short row from RS): K 1, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 9, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, cast on 1 st = 17 sts from marker.
Row 10: K 1, K the next 2 tog, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, K 10 = 16 sts from marker, work the rest of row.
Row 11: Work until 16 sts remain on row, (marker), K 1, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 6, * K the next 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, slip next st as if to K, K the next 2 tog, psso, cast on 1 st = 15 sts from marker.
Row 12: K 1, K the next 2 tog, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, K 8 = 14 sts from marker, work the rest of row.
NOTE! Remember to switch to needle size 5 mm when piece measures 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm, then continue with lace pattern over band sts and work in stocking st over the other sts with 1 edge st in garter st in the side until finished measurements.
Row 13: Work until 14 sts remain on row, (marker), K 1, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 4, * K the next 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, slip next st as if to K, K the next 2 tog, psso, cast on 1 st = 13 sts from marker.
Row 14: K 1, K the next 2 tog, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, K 6 = 12 sts from marker, work the rest of row.
Row 15: Work until 12 sts remain on row, (marker), K 1, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 2, * K the next 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, slip next st as if to K, K the next 2 tog, psso, cast on 1 st = 11 sts from marker.
Row 16: K 1, K the next 2 tog, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, K 4 = 10 sts from marker - NOTE! Turn piece, work short rows here.
Row 17 (= short row from RS): K 1, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 3, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, cast on 1 st = 11 sts from marker.
Repeat row 2 to 17. AT THE SAME TIME dec and inc in the side as on back piece. When piece measures 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm, dec 1 st before marker - READ DECREASE TIP 2 - for neckline. Repeat dec every 6th row a total of 12-12-13-13-14-14 times. When piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm, cast off for armhole in the side as on back piece. After all dec and cast offs are done, there are 16-18-19-21-21-23 sts before marker (= shoulder). When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, cast off the first 16-18-19-21-21-23 sts on next row from RS.

LEFT BAND:
Continue with lace pattern as before over band sts on left front piece until band measures approx. 9-9-10-10-10-10 cm from shoulder (finish with 2nd row), K 1 row while at the same time casting off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 45-49-52-56-61-66 sts (incl 1 edge st) with 2 threads Kid-Silk on needle size 4.5 mm. K 2 rows (1st row = RS). Insert 1 marker after the first 10 sts seen from RS (= 10 band sts towards mid front), move the marker upwards when working. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION FOR RIGHT FRONT PIECE BEFORE CONTINUING.
Then work lace pattern over the 10 band sts towards mid front, and in garter st over the other sts for 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= WS): Work until 10 sts remain on row, (marker), K 1, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 3, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, cast on 1 st = 11 sts from marker.
Row 3: K 2, 1 YO, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 7 = 12 sts from marker, work the rest of row.
Row 4: Work until 12 sts remain on row, (marker), K 1, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 5, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, cast on 1 st = 13 sts from marker.
Row 5: K 2, 1 YO, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 9 = 14 sts from marker, work the rest of row.
Row 6: Work until 14 sts remain on row, (marker), K 1, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 7, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, cast on 1 st = 15 sts from marker.
Row 7: K 2, 1 YO, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 11 = 16 sts from marker, work the rest of row.
Row 8: Work until 16 sts remain on row, (marker), K 1, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 9, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 16 sts from marker.
Row 9 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K the next 2 tog, K 13 = 16 sts from marker - NOTE! Turn piece, work short rows here.
Row 10 (= short row from WS): K 1, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 9, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, cast on 1 st = 17 sts from marker.
Row 11: K 1, K the next 2 tog, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, K 10 = 16 sts from marker, work the rest of row.
Row 12: Work until 16 sts remain on row, (marker), K 1, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 6, * K the next 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, slip next st as if to K, K the next 2 tog, psso, cast on 1 st = 15 sts from marker.
NOTE! Remember to switch to needle size 5 mm when piece measures approx. 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm, then continue with lace pattern over band sts and work in stocking st over the other sts with 1 edge st in garter st in the side until finished measurements.
Row 13: K 1, K the next 2 tog, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, K 8 = 14 sts from marker, work the rest of row.
Row 14: Work until 14 sts remain on row, (marker), K 1, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 4, * K the next 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, slip next st as if to K, K the next 2 tog, psso, cast on 1 st = 13 sts from marker.
Row 15: K 1, K the next 2 tog, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, K 6 = 12 sts from marker, work the rest of row.
Row 16: Work until 12 sts remain on row, (marker), K 1, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 2, * K the next 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, slip next st as if to K, K the next 2 tog, psso, cast on 1 st = 11 sts from marker.
Row 17 (= RS): K 1, K the next 2 tog, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, K 4 = 10 sts from marker - NOTE! Turn piece, work short rows here.
Row 18 (= short row from WS): K 1, K the next 2 tog, 1 YO, K 3, * 1 YO, K the next 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, cast on 1 st = 11 sts from marker.
Repeat row 3 to 18. AT THE SAME TIME dec and inc in the side as on back piece. When piece measures 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm, dec 1 st after marker - READ DECREASE TIP 2. Repeat dec every 6th row a total of 12-12-13-13-14-14 times. When piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm, cast off for armhole in the side as on back piece. After all dec and cast offs are done, there are 16-18-19-21-21-23 sts after marker (= shoulder). When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, cast off the first 16-18-19-21-21-23 sts on last row from WS.

RIGHT BAND:
Continue with lace pattern as before over band sts on right front piece until band measures approx. 9-9-10-10-10-10 cm from shoulder (finish with 3rd row), K 1 row while at the same time casting off.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 38-40-42-44-46-48 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) with 2 threads Kid-Silk on needle size 4.5 mm. Work in garter st for 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm. On next row from RS, switch to needle size 5 mm and continue in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 7-7-7-6-6-6 cm, inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side. Repeat inc every 5-5-4½-4-3½-3½ cm 7-7-8-9-10-10 more times (= 8-8-9-10-11-11 times in total) = 54-56-60-64-68-70 sts.
When piece measures 47-47-46-46-45-45 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap) cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 sts 2 times. Then cast off 1 st in each side until piece measures approx. 57 cm, then cast off in each side as follows: 2 sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time. Cast off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 58 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and sew in sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew bands tog mid back and sew them along neckline at the back of neck.

TIE:
Cast on 6 sts with 2 threads Kid-Silk on double pointed needles size 5 mm and work TUBE KNITTING - read explanation above - for approx. 72-75-78-81-84-87 cm. Sew it on to the middle of side seam on the left side outside the jacket, approx. 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm from bottom edge. Work another tie the same way but for approx. 100-102-104-106-109-112 cm, sew it to a tip on band on right front piece.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 10.12.2013
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
........Repeat row 3 to 18. ....After all dec and cast offs are done, there are 16-18-19-21-21-23 sts after marker (= shoulder).

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (29)

country flag Marie-Armelle AQUILINA wrote:

Bonjour, Est-il possible d'avoir une grille du point ajouré ?

18.08.2019 - 13:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Aquilana, il n'y a pas de diagramme pour ce modèle seulement les explications écrites. Vous pouvez par exemple essayer sur un échantillon au préalable pour bien comprendre comment on le tricote. Bon tricot!

19.08.2019 - 10:27

country flag Cora wrote:

Da diese Wolle so zart ist, wird der Faden hier doppelt genommen? Also stricke ich gleichzeitig mit 2 Fäden (Knäulen)? LG Cora

28.03.2019 - 15:58

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Cora, ja genau, diese Jacke wird mit doppeltem Kid-Silk gestrickt (= mit 2 Fäden). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.04.2019 - 09:52

country flag Céline wrote:

Pouvez vous m expliquer davantage le montage du à partir 5 cm de la hauteur totale. Je fais la taille xxx merci

18.03.2019 - 20:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Céline, vous tricotez d'abord au point mousse pendant 5 cm, puis continuez en jersey avec 1 m lis au point mousse. À 6 cm (XXXL), vous diminuez 3 fois 1 m de chaque côté (cf DIMINUTIONS-1) tous les 4 cm = 106 m. À 22 cm, vous augmentez 3 fois à 1 m du bord de chaque côté (cf AUGMENTATIONS) tous les 7 cm = 112 m. À 44 cm, vous rabattez pour les manches de chaque côté: 2x3m, 4x2m et 5x1m = 74 m. À64 cm, vous rabattez les 26 m centrales puis 1 m pour l'encolure = 23 m pour chaque épaule. Rabattez à 66 cm. Bon tricot!

19.03.2019 - 10:24

country flag Laura wrote:

Buongiorno,l'ho rifatto un'altra volta ed ora viene.Grazie mille per l'aiuto!

24.01.2015 - 13:43

country flag Laura wrote:

Non rimane neancora...ma nessuno ha già fatto questo modello?

19.01.2015 - 21:34

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Laura. Per poterla aiutare, le chiediamo se gentilmente ci può spiegare meglio in quale punto il motivo non viene più eseguito correttamente. Può scrivere qui, sul nostro forum, oppure può mandare una mail, eventualmente con una foto allegata, all’indirizzo italy@garnstudio.com. Buon lavoro!

20.01.2015 - 08:43

country flag Laura wrote:

Buongiorno, è possibile che ci sia un errore nel motivo a pizzo? non mi trovo con la spiegazione a partire dal ferro 8...seguendo i vari passaggi dopo il segnapunti mi rimangono 17 maglie. Andando avanti coi ferri il motivo a pizzo non rimane...se potete darmi un aiuto...Grazie mille

19.01.2015 - 08:43

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Laura. Abbiamo corretto le spiegazioni del ferro 7 del davanti sinistro e del ferro 8 del davanti destro. Adesso dovrebbe riuscire a lavorare correttamente il motivo a pizzo. La ringraziamo per la segnalazione. Buon lavoro!

19.01.2015 - 11:04

country flag Marsci wrote:

Si je veux tricoter avec 1 fil Kid Silk et 1 fil Alpaca, combien de pelotes de chaque faut-il pour un Pull T 42 ? Je suppose que le fil Kid Silk améliore la tenue de la laine Alpaca (qui a tendance à se détendre)? Merci pour votre réponse. Bien cordialement

20.01.2014 - 13:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Marsci, vous devez d'abord calculez le métrage total nécessaire pour votre taille, ex. en taille M 8 pelotes (8x25=200g). La moitié (fil tricoté en double) représente 4 pelotes et 800 m env. Divisez 800/167 m (longueur Alpaca)= 4.8, soit 5 pelotes. En taille M, il vous faudrait 4 pelotes Kid-Silk et 5 Alpaca. Bon tricot!

21.01.2014 - 08:45

country flag Ineke Kroon wrote:

Het tweede voorpand, de rechterkant van het vestje, wordt het tegenovergestelde gebreid van de linkerkant. Waar in het linkerpatroon gezegd wordt een extra steek op te zetten, wordt in het rechterpand gezegd dat een steek afgehaald moet worden. Dit klopt niet, ook in het rechter patroon moet een extra steek extra opgezet worden. (zie patroon rechterpand o.a. naald 2, naald 4 , naald 6 en 10 etc.)

19.10.2012 - 21:49

country flag Elena Vieth wrote:

Hallo, eine dehr schöne Jacke! Ich bin nur etwas verwundert über die Materialangabe. Sind 200g für größe M tatsächlich ausreichend? Vielen dank und liebe Grüße Elena Vieth

13.09.2012 - 11:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Frau Vieth, ja Kid Silk jäuft sehr weit. 25 g haben eine Lauflänge von 200 m. Achten Sie darauf, dass Sie für Grösse M 8 Knäuel à 25 g brauchen.

13.09.2012 - 13:20

country flag Marie Danneels wrote:

U spreekt voor het kantpatroon steeds over 1 steek afhalen; is het niet 1 nieuwe steek opzetten ? Kan zijn dat ik totaal verkeerd ben maar dan snap ik het helemaal niet -))) Groetjes !

08.08.2012 - 11:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marie. Je hebt gelijk, het moet 1 st opzetten zijn. Wij zullen het patroon aanpassen.

31.08.2012 - 16:35