DROPS / 142 / 34

Nightfall by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS socks in 1 thread "Big Fabel" of 2 rhreads "Fabel". Size 35 to 42

Tags: sideways, socks,
DROPS design: Pattern no BF-008
Yarn group C
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Size: 35/37 – 38/39 – 40/42
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 26 cm
Leg length: 19 - 21 - 22 cm

Materials: DROPS BIG FABEL from Garnstudio
200-200-300 g colour no 906p, wild berries.

Or use:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
150-150-200 g colour no 671, blue/brown/mustard.

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 33 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm in 1 thread Big Fabel or 2 threads Fabel.
DROPS DARK BUFFELHORN BUTTONS NO 535: 4 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
DROPS Big Fabel DROPS Big Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

KNITTING TIP: When turning mid piece, slip first st. Tighten thread and continue as before. This is done to avoid holes in the transitions.

ASSEMBLY TIP: The toes is tightened tog, therefore insert 1 thread in front loop of outermost st towards the toe and let this follows upwards when working. Use this thread to tighten the toe tog at the end.
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SOCK:
Remember the knitting tension! The sock is worked back and forth from mid under foot, over the instep and finished mid under foot. The entire sock is worked in GARTER ST - see explanation above. The sock is worked with short rows over the toe as follows:
Row 1: Work all sts.
Row 2: Work all sts.
Row 3: Work until 6-8-10 sts remain, turn - READ KNITTING TIP.
Row 4: Work back.
Repeat these 4 rows until finished measurements.

Cast on 60-67-74 sts on needles size 5 mm with 1 thread Big Fabel or 2 threads Fabel. First work an elevation in the back as follows:
Work 10 sts, turn, slip 1 st as if to K, work 9 sts.
Work 15 sts, turn, slip 1 st as if to K, work 14 sts.
Work 20 sts, turn, slip 1 st as if to K, work 19 sts.
Size 40/42: Work 25 sts, turn, slip 1 st as if to K, work 24 sts.
All sizes: Work 4 rows over all sts (remember short rows towards the toe - i.e. in the opposite side of elevation). READ ASSEMBLY TIP!

Now dec for heel as follows: Insert a marker in the 23rd-27th-30th st (from the side with elevation). Dec 1 st on each side of st with marker every other row a total of 7 times = 46-53-60 sts. Work in garter st until piece measures 8-10-12 cm from last dec.
Then inc for heel as follows: Insert a marker in the 16th-20th-23rd st (from the side with elevation). Inc 1 st on each side of st with marker every other row a total of 7 times = 60-67-74 sts. Work 4 rows over all sts.
Then work an elevation in the back as follows:
Size 40/42: Work 25 sts, turn, slip 1 st as if to K, work 24 sts.
All sizes: Work 20 sts, turn, slip 1 st as if to K, work 19 sts.
Work 15 sts, turn, slip 1 st as if to K, work 14 sts.
Work 10 sts, turn, slip 1 st as if to K, work 9 sts.
Slip all sts on a stitch holder. Knit another sock.

LEG:
Cast on 10 new sts on row and knit up 40-44-50 sts from RS along the upper edge of sock (short side with elevations) = 50-54-60 sts. Work in garter st for 10 cm, cast off. On the other sock work as follows: Knit up 40-44-50 sts from RS along upper edge of sock (short side with elevations) and cast on 10 sts at the end of row = 50-54-60 sts. Work in garter st for 10 cm, cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sts from stitch holder and cast on edge tog with grafting/kitchener sts. The seam will go under foot and up along the back of leg. Tighten the toe tog. Sew on two buttons on each flap, sew through both layers.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 142-34) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Selam 14.02.2020 - 15:50:

I mean what happens to the st. On helping thread?

DROPS Design 14.02.2020 kl. 16:21:

Dear Selam, the stitches from the stitch holder at the end of the socks are sewn together to the cast on edge - see ASSEMBLY. Happy knitting!

Selam 14.02.2020 - 13:52:

I get that but what happens to the 68 st. Before the 10 new cast ons ? Bottom of the socks?

DROPS Design 14.02.2020 kl. 14:11:

Dear Selam, do you mean under LEG part? These 10 stitches are for the flap on the leg part, ie cast on these 10 stitches, pick up 40 to 50 sts along the sock, work garter stitch for 10 cm, cast off. Then sew buttons throught the 10 stitch-section and in the other side of leg part - see picture. Hope this helps. Happy knitting!

Selam Belay 13.02.2020 - 23:38:

Do I cast of the 68 before the new 10 sts?

DROPS Design 14.02.2020 kl. 08:36:

Dear Mrs Belay, in 2nd size you cast on 67 stitches then work short rows starting with 10 sts. Happy knitting!

Jette Simonsen 26.01.2016 - 11:51:

Hej, jeg har brug for hjælp til at forstå denne opskrift. Jeg har slået 60 m op på p 5, så langt så godt, men hvad skal jeg så - skal der startes med vende pinde med det samme ?

DROPS Design 26.01.2016 kl. 16:10:

Hej Jette, ja du fortsætte ifølge opskriften; Strik 10 m vend osv... God fornøjelse!

Selam 16.12.2014 - 22:04:

Thanks for the previous response. Im not sure how the leg is worked, could you please explain 10 new St and pick up 40( for example) Not sure where these 40 st are coming from? Thanks

DROPS Design 17.12.2014 kl. 08:42:

Dear Selam, the text under "leg" refers to the edge worked around the top of the sock, ie you first cast on 10 sts, then pick up 40 sts (in 1st size) along the upper edge of socks (side where you previously worked the first and last short rows for elevation on back) and work 10 cm garter sts over these 50 sts (in 1st size). The 10 sts are the flap that will be sewn with buttons. Happy knitting!

Selam 14.12.2014 - 14:15:

Hi when do i start with ..."remember short rows towards the toe - i.e. in the opposite side of elevation"? thanks

DROPS Design 14.12.2014 kl. 16:38:

Dear Selam, that's correct, the short rows towards the toe are on the opposite side of short rows worked at very beg of sock (and worked again at the end of socks). Happy knitting!

Petra Gröger 23.11.2013 - 15:31:

Liebes Drops-Team, diese Socke gefällt mir sehr gut, würde Sie aber gerne in einem Sockenwollgarn stricken und mit dünneren Nadeln. Habt Ihr eine Anleitung für z.B. Drops Delight ? Oder wie kann ich es mir selbst umrechnen ? Liebe Grüße von einem großen Garnstudio - Drops Fan Petra aus Dresden

DROPS Design 25.11.2013 kl. 07:49:

Liebe Petra, das Modell ist nicht ganz einfach umzurechnen. Alle Anleitungen für dünnere Sockenwolle (DROPS Fabel oder Delight) finden Sie in unserer Musterdatenbank.

Teresa 25.09.2012 - 21:09:

Boa tarde, achei maravilhosa só que tenho dúvidas pois diminui para o calcanhar e depois aumenta estou fazendo e não entendo como costurar, gostaria de ver um desenho e a explicação do que fazer. obrigada.

DROPS Design 17.10.2012 kl. 16:38:

Este modelo não tem esquema porque como é tricotado no sentido do cumprimento da meia, a costura é mais fácil. Os aumentos são para dar melhor forma para o calcanhar da meia. Depois, faz-se uma única costura lateral. Pense em um rectângulo com uma pequena curva a meio (forma para o calcanhar) e será mais fácil imaginar como unir esse rectângulo com uma costura na lateral. Bom tricô!

Annette 12.07.2012 - 17:48:

Super interessante Struktur!

Kiril 12.07.2012 - 01:05:

Jeg har ett spm vedrørende den økingen til hel. Jeg får aldri dette til å bli pent. Det blir et hull der hvor jeg snur.. hva er hemmeligheten for å få dette til å se pent ut? Setter stor pris på alle tilbakemeldinger.

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