DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
DROPS Symphony
DROPS Symphony
65% Wool, 35% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Warm Banjo

Knitted DROPS dog's vest in ”Fabel” and ”BabyMerino” with edges in ”Symphony”. Size XS - L.

DROPS Extra 0-835
DROPS design: Pattern no FA-188
Yarn group A
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Size: XS - S - M - L
Dog's measurements:
Chest width: approx. 28/32-40/44-50/54-60/66 cm
Back length: approx. 24/26-32/34-40/42-48/52 cm
Example of dog races:
XS = Chihuahua, S = Bichon Frisé, M = Cocker Spaniel, L = Irish setter.

Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50-100-100-150 g colour no 161p, pink dream
And use:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
50-100-100-150 g colour no 05, light pink
And use:
DROPS SYMPHONY from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in colour no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES (for size XS), CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm for size S and M and 60 cm for size L) SIZE 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stocking st with 1 thread Fabel and 1 thread Baby Merino = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm
BUTTONS: 4 buttons, approx. diameter 2½ cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Home Pets Dog Sweatersrib
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
DROPS Symphony
DROPS Symphony
65% Wool, 35% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc inside 2 sts in garter st in each side. Inc by picking up st from previous row and knitting it in the rib.
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VEST:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles in size XS and on circular needle in the other sizes. Worked from the neck down.
Cast on 40-55-70-85 sts on double pointed needles/circular needle size 4.5 mm with Symphony. Work rib = K 3/P 2 for 5-8-11-14 cm (= neck). Switch to 1 thread Fabel + 1 thread Baby Merino – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue rib for 2-4-6-8 cm. On next round, inc all 3 K sts to 4 K sts = 48-66-84-102 sts. When piece measures 6-9-12-15 cm, cast off for front legs as follows: Slip the first 10-16-22-28 sts on a stitch holder – there should be 4 K sts at the beg and end of holder = 38-50-62-74 sts remain on needle. Continue with over piece.

OVER PIECE:
Work rib back and forth on needle with 2 sts in GARTER ST in each side - see explanation above! AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS, inc 1 st in each side - Read INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc on every row from RS 5-11-11-17 more times = 50-74-86-110 sts. Piece now measures approx. 12-19-22-31 cm. On next row from RS, cast off for 1 button hole in each side as follows: Cast off the middle 2 K sts in the outermost K-section in each side and cast on 2 new sts over the cast off sts on next row. Repeat button hole cast off when piece measures 16-24-28-37 cm. When piece measures 19-26-32-38 cm, cast off at beg of every row: 2 sts 7-9-11-14 times in each side = 22-38-42-54 sts. Then cast off the remaining sts. Piece measures approx. 30-42-53-64 cm incl the neck.

UNDER PIECE:
Slip sts from stitch holder back on needle size 4.5 mm. Knit in addition up 2 sts in each side at the back of the 2 sts in garter st worked on over piece = 14-20-26-32 sts. Work rib with 1 thread Fabel + 1 thread Baby Merino back and forth on needle with 2 sts in garter st in each side. Cast off when under piece measures 13-17-20-23 cm.

CROCHET EDGE:
Crochet with hook size 4 mm and Symphony around the entire over piece and under piece as follows: 1 dc, * 3 ch, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first dc.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew 4 buttons on under piece, 2 in each side to match the button holes on over piece.
TIP: Try the vest on the dog. If it is too wide, only sew 2 buttons in the middle of under piece and button both sides of over piece with the same button.
PS: The neck is folded double when worn.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Dorine Anselme wrote:

Bonjour, je bloque au niveau de: mesurer à partir d'ici, je doit tricoter en Côte 8 cm et au tour suivant augmenter 1 m end et ds toutes les sections 3 m end pour un total de 102m Je ne comprends pas, dois-je augmenter des deux côtés de 1 ou 3 mailles Merci.

23.01.2022 - 00:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Anselme, vous devez maintenant augmenter le nombre de mailles dans les sections 3 mailles endroit des côtes pour tricoter désormais en côtes 4 mailles endroit, 2 mailles envers. Vous pouvez augmenter au début de chaque section en mailles endroit par exemple en faisant 1 jeté -tricotez ce jeté torse à l'endroit au tour suivant; vous allez ainsi augmenter 17 mailles et continuer en côtes 4 mailles endroit, 2 mailles envers sur les 102 mailles obtenues. Bon tricot!

24.01.2022 - 10:39

country flag Lisen Hillestad wrote:

Hei! Jeg begynner nå fellingen på ryggstykket. 2 m "på hver pinne" - vil det si at man også skal felle på vrangen?

10.02.2021 - 11:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lisen, Ja, du feller både på retten og vrangen. God fornøyelse!

11.02.2021 - 07:23

country flag Sine wrote:

Guten Tag, leider ist keine Skizze dabei. Ich weiß nicht wie der Pullover von unten aussieht, und habe daher keine Ahnung , wie ich die Unterseite vernähen soll. Ich habe einiges ausprobiert, dass aber nicht funktionierte. Ich habe keine Vorstellung wie die Teile zusammengehören, so das es passt. Danke für ihre Hilfe.

06.01.2021 - 18:02

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sine, wir haben dafür auch keine Skizze. Das untere Teil wird als Einzelteil gestrickt: die stillgelegten Maschen + 2 Maschen beidseitig hinter die Maschen vom Rückenteil aufgefassen dann wie zuvor Bündchen mit 2 Maschen kraus rechts beidseitig stricken und dann nach 13-23 cm (siehe Größe) abketten. Die Knöpfe werden dann auf beiden Seiten genäht (passend zu den Knopflöchern vom Rückenteil). Hoffentlich kann es Ihnen weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.01.2021 - 09:39

country flag Esti Tomson wrote:

Am l reading correctly in saying your yarns are not available in Canada? What a crime! Esti

06.04.2019 - 08:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Tomson, please find here our DROPS retailer in/for Canada. Happy knitting!

08.04.2019 - 10:34

country flag Angela wrote:

I loved this pattern. So happy it had buttons as it is much easier to put on. The small size fit my Brussels Griffon perfectly, no sizing adjustments needed. Thank you.

27.01.2019 - 00:12

country flag Anne wrote:

Hallo, ich habe ein Problem die Anleitung zu lesen. Ich habe das Unterteil auf den Hilfsfaden und will nun das Rückenteil stricken. Ich habe 38 M auf der Nadel und soll 5 mal Maschen auf beide Seiten aufnehmen. Das ergibt bei mir nur 48 M. Wie komme ich auf die 50M? Lieben Dank für die Hilfe. Anne

27.09.2018 - 22:20

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anne, Sie sollen insgesamt 6 Mal zunehmen = 12 Maschen werden insgesamt zugenommen - Deutsche Anleitung wird bald korrigiert. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.09.2018 - 08:33

country flag Anne wrote:

Hello, my sister is knitting this pattern. She is at the point to bind off the first time. She slipped the stitches to a stitch holder. Her working yarn is on the stitch holder! What did she do wrong? Please help. I’m reading the pattern and cannot figure it out. Thank you, Anne (and Annette) in Canada

18.12.2017 - 19:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anne and Anette, when dividing piece for front (stomach) and back piece, she can work the first sts before slipping them on a stitch holder, so that she doesn't have to cut the yarn. Happy knitting!

19.12.2017 - 08:17

country flag Susan wrote:

Don't know what the following means? " Knit in addition up 2 sts in each side at the back of the 2 sts in garter st worked on back piece = 14-20-26-32 sts. " Am I adding two additional stitches to each side in garter stitch? Am I Attaching to the back piece? For how many rows? Is finished piece measured with neck folded? Would greatly appreciate your help.. Thank you.

16.09.2017 - 01:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susan, knit up sitches means you should be picking up stitches into the back loop of the garter stitch you knitted earlier on the back. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

18.09.2017 - 00:27

country flag Bonnie wrote:

Is the chest dimension supposed to be the circumference or diameter of the dogs chest? Thank you.

22.12.2016 - 17:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Bonnie, the chest dimension is the circumference of the dog around chest. Happy knitting!

22.12.2016 - 18:21

June wrote:

Where is the stitches for the second leg I only see where u take off for 1 leg

20.12.2016 - 01:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs June, you don't cast off sts for legs, only slip the first 10-16-22-28 sts on a st holder for front piece (stomach) and then work each piece separately . When you will work below piece you will pick up 2 sts on each side (in sts on back piece). Happy knitting!

20.12.2016 - 09:18