DROPS / 136 / 7

Madeline by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS singlet in ”Lin”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no LN-026
Yarn group C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS LIN from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-550-600 g colour no 103, linen

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm (60 cm) - or size needed to get 19 sts x 25 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm - for edge.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INCREASE TIP 1:
All inc are done from RS.
Right shoulder: Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in last st. Inc 2 sts by making 1 YO before last st and then work 2 sts in last st.
Left shoulder: Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in first st. Inc 2 sts by working 2 sts in first st and then make 1 YO.

INCREASE TIP 2:
Inc by making 1 YO on each side of st with marker in each side as follows: Work in stocking st until marker, 1 YO, work st with marker in stocking st, 1 YO. K YOs twisted on next row to avoid holes.
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SINGLET:
The piece is worked top down. Front and back piece is worked back and forth separately down to armhole. Then all sts are slipped on the same circular needle and worked in the round.

FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, work first right shoulder up to and with neck inc. Then work left shoulder as right shoulder but with inc in the opposite side.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Cast on 17-17-18-18-21-21 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with Lin. Work in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 4 cm, inc for neck at the end of every row from RS as follows - read INCREASE TIP 1: 1 st 5-5-6-6-7-7 times and 2 sts 4 times = 30-30-32-32-36-36 sts. Put piece aside when all inc are done.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work as right shoulder but with inc in the opposite side (i.e. beg of every row from RS).

FRONT PIECE:
Slip sts from right and left shoulder on to same needle = 60-60-64-64-72-72 sts. Continue back and forth in stocking st. When piece measures 21-19-20-15-15-11 cm, inc 1 st in each side for armholes, repeat inc every cm 0-3-4-9-10-15 more times = 62-68-74-84-94-104 sts. When all inc are done, the piece measures approx. 22-23-25-25-26-27 cm. Cut the thread and slip sts on a stitch holder.

BACK PIECE:
RIGHT SHOULDER:
Cast on 17-17-18-18-21-21 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with Lin. Work 4 rows in stocking st, beg from RS. Cut the thread and put piece aside.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Cast on 17-17-18-18-21-21 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with Lin. Work 4 rows in stocking st, beg from RS, then cast on 26-26-28-28-30-30 sts at the end of next row from RS = 43-43-46-46-51-51 sts. Work sts from right shoulder on to same needle = 60-60-64-64-72-72 sts. Continue in stocking st. When piece measures 21-19-20-15-15-11 cm, inc for armholes in each side as on front piece = 62-68-74-84-94-104 sts. When all inc are done, the piece measures approx. 22-23-25-25-26-27 cm.

BODY:
Slip sts from front piece on to same circular needle as back piece = 124-136-148-168-188-208 sts. Now work in the round on circular needle, beg in one side. Insert a marker in a st in each side = 61-67-73-83-93-103 sts between sts with markers. Continue in stocking st, on next round inc 1 st on each side of each st with marker in each side - READ INCREASE TIP 2! Repeat inc every 3rd round 34-35-35-36-37-38 more times = 264-280-292-316-340-364 sts. LOOSELY cast off. The piece now measures approx. 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm, measured straight down from the shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams neatly tog with grafting/kitchener sts.

CROCHET EDGE:
Crochet an edge around the neck on hook size 5 mm as follows: 1 dc in edge mid back of neck, * 1 ch, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in first dc. Crochet the same way around the armholes.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 136-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (54)

Edith 27.02.2019 - 12:07:

Hallo liebes Drops Team, stricke gerne nach euren Anleitungen, normal auch ohne Probleme, das einzigste wo ich immer dran verzweifeln sind. bei jeder 3. Runde wiederholen = 264-280-292-316-340-364 M. Nach ca. 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm locker abk. Heißt das jetzt 1 Rd mit Zunahme, eine Rd ohne Zunahme im Wechsel, oder 1 Rd mit Zunahme, 2 Rd ohne Zunahme im Wechsel Danke für euer bemühen Lg Edith

DROPS Design 27.02.2019 kl. 12:21:

Liebe Edith, wenn Sie in jeder 3. Runde zunehmen, stricken Sie 1 Runde mit Zunahmen, 2 Runden ohne Zunahmen, und diese 3 Runden so wiederholen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Oddbjørg Fjeld 05.08.2016 - 22:54:

Hei. Lurer litt på str her. Om jeg må ha ca 109 over bysten, vil det dansing at jeg må ha største str? Har aldri strikket etter så stor str før

DROPS Design 26.08.2016 kl. 14:24:

Hej Oddbjørg. Ja, det skal du have over brystet, men tjek ogsaa de andre maal - skal du have den saa lang og vid som der staar ved den störste str? Ellers kan du jo kombinere to störrelser saa de passer til dine maal.

Sandra 27.02.2016 - 01:18:

Read other people's comments and questions and am still hesitant to begin this pattern due to confusion in size. I have made several drops patterns and am usually a small. This pattern is very confusing size wise. You say to follow the measurement on chary but why is the xl in this pattern equal in cm to most of the medium in your other patterns.

Nyllie 02.11.2015 - 03:13:

Could you please tell me which size is the model in the picture wearing. Thank you.

DROPS Design 02.11.2015 kl. 10:02:

Dear Nyllie, you will find at the bottom of the pattern a measurement chart with all measurements in cm taken flat from side to side - compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. read more about sizing here. Happy knitting!

Jackie 28.04.2015 - 02:18:

You didn't answer the main question: How much negative ease is the garment supposed to have?

DROPS Design 28.04.2015 kl. 14:13:

Dear Jackie, depening on how far you rather want it fitting or more loose, you can compare your own measurements with the indications in the measurement chart. For further individual assistance, remember you can get tips & advices from your DROPS store. Happy knitting!

Jackie 27.04.2015 - 15:24:

How much negative ease is calculated for this pattern? The sizing is very difficult to understand. The bust measurement for a small--26 inches--would be too small even for my 11-year-old child, much less an adult!!

DROPS Design 27.04.2015 kl. 17:07:

Dear Jackie, you will find at the bottom of the pattern a measurement chart with all measurements for each size in cm (convet here into inches), taken flat from side to side. Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. Happy knitting!

Sandra Greer 13.04.2015 - 19:25:

For the front piece,where do you measure to start increase?

DROPS Design 14.04.2015 kl. 09:35:

Dear Mrs Greer, piece is measured from cast on row , ie from top of shoulder. Happy knitting!

Sylviane 04.05.2014 - 20:19:

J'adore ce modèle... je l'ai tricoté et comme je trouvais que les emmanchures sont trop grandes, j'ai presque tout détricoté et je recommence !!! je me réjouis de pouvoir le porter :-)

Marie Gérard 22.05.2012 - 20:30:

Encore une question à propos des tailles: je fais habituellement du 36 ou 38, bref du S. Si je mesure et regarde sur le schéma, je dois faire du L voire du XL. Mais le modèle est alors bien trop long.. QUe me conseillez-vous. Le modèle taille-t-il effectivement petit/étroit à la poitrine et aux épaules? Merci

DROPS Design 23.05.2012 kl. 14:35:

Bonjour Marie, les 33-36-39-44-49-55 cm correspondent à la mesure sous la poitrine. Choisissez et adaptez si nécessaire à votre taille en fonction des mesures indiquées. Pour toute aide personnalisée, n'hésitez pas à contacter votre magasin DROPS. Bon tricot !

Sunny 19.05.2012 - 01:18:

In regard to the measurements. My bust size around is 36, should I knit a small(26") or a medium (26 1/2)?

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