DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 21-17
DROPS design: Pattern no BM-033-by
Yarn group A
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
Colour no 08, cerise: 100-100-100 (150-150) g
Colour no 01, white: 50-50-50 (50-50) g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm (60 cm for all sizes + 40 cm for the 2 smaller sizes) - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTON LIGHT, NO 503 (15 mm): 2 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1 - M.7.
DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to body):
Dec 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, (marker), K tog the next 2 sts.
DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to armholes):
Dec 1 st in each side as follows: Work 4 sts in garter st, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, work until 6 sts remain, K the next 2 sts tog, work 4 sts in garter st.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 144-156-172 (188-200) sts with cerise on circular needle size 2.5 mm. K for approx. 2.5 cm, then P 1 round = folding edge, measure piece from here and work in stocking st until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
K 1 more round and insert a marker in each side (= 72-78-86 (94-100) sts between markers on front and back piece). Then work diagram M.1 1 time vertically.
Continue in stocking st with cerise until piece measures 3 cm. Now dec 1 st on each side of every marker - Read DECREASE TIP 1 above = 4 sts dec on round. Repeat dec like this every 2-2½-2½ (2-2½) cm a total of 6-6-7 (8-8) times = 120-132-144 (156-168) sts. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING.
When piece measures 15-17-19 (21-23) cm (all dec are now done), work diagrams M.2, M.3, and then M.4 1 time vertically. Then work rounds 1-3 in diagram M.5 (now piece measures approx. 26-28-30 (32-34) cm). On next round (= 4th round in diagram M.5), cast off 8 sts in each side (i.e. 4 sts on each side of every marker), now divide the piece and finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 52-58-64 (70-76) sts. The piece is worked back and forth in stocking st until finished measurements. Work next row (= RS) as follows: Work 4 sts in garter st (= edge sts), dec 1 st - Read DECREASE TIP 2 above, work 5th row in diagram M.5 until 6 sts remain, dec 1 st - Read DECREASE 2 above, finish with 4 sts in garter st. Repeat dec inside 4 sts in garter st in each side, on each row from RS like this a total of 2-1-4 (3-2) times = 48-56-56 (64-72) sts.
After diagram M.5 has been worked 1 time vertically, work diagrams M.6 and M.3 1 time vertically (with 4 sts in garter st in each side). P next row from WS, and then work diagram M.7 with 4 sts in garter st in each side until finished measurements. When piece measures 33-36-39 (42-45) cm, cast off the middle 18-20-20 (22-24) sts for neck and finish each part separately. Cast off 2 sts on next row from neck = 13-16-16 (19-22) sts. When piece measures 35-38-41 (44-47) cm, cast off on right shoulder, work as follows on left shoulder: K 1 row from WS (= folding edge), then work in stocking st for another 2.5 cm. Cast off all sts.

FRONT PIECE:
= 52-58-64 (70-76) sts. The piece is worked back and forth in stocking st until finished measurements. Then continue with charts as on back piece with 4 sts in garter st in each side and cast off for armhole as on back piece. When piece measures 29-32-35 (37-40) cm, cast off the middle 12-12-14 (14-16) sts for neck and finish each part separately. Then cast off on next row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 3-4-3 (4-4) times = 13-16-16 (19-22) sts remain on shoulder. When piece measures 35-38-41 (44-47) cm, cast off on right shoulder, and work a folding edge on left shoulder as on back piece:

ASSEMBLY:
Sew right shoulder seam. Make 1 strap as follows: Twine 2 strands of 20 cm with cerise and fold them double so that they twine. Make another strap the same way.
On left back shoulder fold the edge inwards at the P round, and fasten the straps in the outer edge by folding them double and then pulling the ends through the folding edge, fasten the ends and then sew the edge to the back.
Fold and sew the edge to the back of left front shoulder.
Knit up from RS approx. 60-80 sts along the entire neck edge (through both layers of the folding edge in each side), then P 1 row from WS while at the same time adjusting no of sts to 66-70-74 (78-82). Continue to work rib as follows: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire row. Loosely cast off all sts when rib measures approx. 1 cm.
Sew the buttons on to left front shoulder. Fold the bottom edge on the dress at the P round and fasten on the back.

Diagram

symbols = cerise
symbols = white
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (52)

country flag Vivian LaColla wrote:

I just answered my own question about binding off......I should NOT have started with a bindoff.....Now I have the 76th stitch in the middle of the bind off.......ug....I have to rip out!!!

27.02.2024 - 21:36

country flag Vivian LaColla wrote:

I absolutely love this pattern. I am at row 4 of M5, I have to bind off 4 stitches on each side of the marker. Do I bind off the first four stitches of the beginning of the round then bind off the last four at the end of the round (also binding off on the other marker) Do I start the round with a bind off? Also, I'm nervous about continuing the beautiful pattern while doing a stockinette stitch. Any advice? Any videos? I knit American not Continental. Thank you!!

27.02.2024 - 21:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Vivian, You bind off 8 stitches for each armhole (4 stitches on each side of both markers). Start the round by binding off 4 stitches, bind off 8 stitches on each side of the second marker and bind off the last 4 stitches on the round. Happy knitting!

28.02.2024 - 06:58

country flag Pascale wrote:

Bonjour. Ce modèle est très beau, merci pour les explications. Cependant je ne comprends pas le système de fermeture de l’épaule gauche… et votre explication en anglais à Juddy ne m’a pas éclairée… s’agit-il d’un système de brides ? Avez-vous une photo pour plus de clarté ? D’avance merci. Pascale

24.01.2024 - 21:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pascale, les 2 cordelières sont les brides de boutonnage, faites une boucle et enfilez cette boucle dans le rang de cassure de l'ourlet de l'épaule gauche, fixez ces cordelières avec quelques points puis pliez l'ourlet en double et cousez-le sur l'envers. Il suffit maintenant juste de coudre le boutons sur l'autre épaule, et de les attacher à l'aide des cordelières. Bon assemblage!

25.01.2024 - 09:17

country flag Anjo wrote:

Meer een vraag,. Hoe zet ik dit om naar maat 128- 132? Qua steken? Dank.

18.12.2022 - 00:36

country flag Judy Canning wrote:

Is there a video showing the strap finish to the left shoulder? I do not understand how it is done. Thanks

16.11.2022 - 17:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Canning, the strap on the left shoulder is worked with a folded hem on both front and back pieces; the both twisted cords are the straps for the buttons, insert them through the folded edge (evenly distributed) and tied them together from WS, sew the folded edge on back piece and sew the buttons on front piece matching the straps. Happy finishing!

17.11.2022 - 09:57

country flag Ruth Savard wrote:

Bonsoir Au 4e tour de M5 j’ai 168 mailles. Si je rabats 8 mailles de chaque côté des marqueurs, il me reste (168 - 16 )= 152 mailles. Comme ce n’est pas un multiple de 12 je n’arrive plus dans ma grille . Que faire? Merci

03.08.2022 - 02:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Savard, notez bien où vous terminez /commencez le diagramme pour chaque pièce et continuez le diagramme comme avant, autrement dit, vous ne tricoterez plus le premier motif ni le dernier motif en entier, mais le diagramme doit continuer pour ne pas être décalé. Bon tricot!

03.08.2022 - 10:21

country flag Ruth Savard wrote:

Merci infiniment de répondre si rapidement . C’est gentil de votre part. Amicalement

14.07.2022 - 12:43

country flag Ruth Savard wrote:

Bonjour J’ai 168 mailles je dois tricoter M2 M3 et M4. J’utilise 20 mailles au total En les répétant 8 fois j’utilise 160 mailles. Il reste 8 mailles non incluses dans une grille au premier rang. Comme je prendrai 16 rangs pour tricoter en hauteur toutes les grilles j’aurai une bande sans motif entre les grilles. Quel conseil me donnez-vous? Merci

13.07.2022 - 02:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Ruth , vous tricotez 1 fois M2 en hauteur (14 fois tout le tour), ensuite M3 1 fois en hauteur (42 fois tout le tour) et enfin 1 fois M4 en hauteur (42 fois tout le tour). Bon tricot!

14.07.2022 - 08:55

country flag Manon Tessier wrote:

Bonjour , je suis rendu a faire le diagrame M5 il me reste 56 mailles après diminution . Le diagrams m5 est divisible par douze alors je commence ou pour que les dessins soit bon . Merci

17.12.2020 - 16:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Tessier, vous tricotez M.5 sur toutes les mailles = 120-132-144 (156-168) m autrement dit vous le répétez 10-11-12 (13-14) fois en rond, puis, lorsque vous divisez l'ouvrage et que vous diminuez, vous terminez le diagramme = les rangs 4 et 5 en alignant les mailles les unes au-dessus des autres, autrement dit, veillez à bien juste continuer les diagrammes en hauteur en ajustant le début/la fin du rang en fonction des motifs. Bon tricot!

17.12.2020 - 17:19

country flag Ria Edam-Dekker wrote:

Ik maak maat 12-18 maanden maar kom niet op het aangegeven aantal van 16 steken bij het voorpand. Begint met 64 st, - 14 afkanten = 50 dus 25 aan iedere kant. Minder 1x2 en 3x1 = 20 st. Dus 4 meer dan 16. Wat gaat hier niet goed?

08.11.2020 - 18:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ria,

Vermoedelijk zijn de 4 ribbelsteken hier niet bij gerekend. Dan kom je wel op 16 steken.

18.11.2020 - 13:15