Beautiful You! by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st with broad collar and lace pattern in "Alpaca" and "Kid-Silk". Size: S - XXXL.

  • Beautiful You! / DROPS 130-2 - Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st with broad collar and lace pattern in Alpaca and Kid-Silk. 
Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-541
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Colour no 2020m, eco light camel mix:
350-400-400-450-450-500 g
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
Colour no 20, light beige:
125-150-150-175-175-200 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm (80 cm) - or size needed to get 17 sts x 34 rows in garter st with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm.



Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 41.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

Cast off for 1 button hole on right front band. 1 button hole = cast off 4th and 5th st from mid front. On next row cast on 2 new sts over the cast off sts.
Cast off for button hole when piece measures 20 cm in all sizes.

See diagram M.1 and M.2 (= 14 sts). Diagram shows pattern seen from WS, i.e. 1st row = from WS.

PICOT EDGE (back and forth on needle):
Row 1 (= the last 4 sts on needle): K all sts.
Row 2 (= the first 4 sts on needle): K all sts.
Row 3 (= the last 4 sts on needle inc to 6 sts): K until 4 sts remain, work these sts as follows: K 2 tog, 1 YO, work 2 sts in each of the last 2 sts.
Row 4 (= the first 6 sts on needle dec to 4 sts): Slip 1st st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 1 and slip the last st on right needle over the foremost st - then K the remaining sts.
Repeat row 1-4 in each side.

INCREASE TIP (applies to collar):
Inc for collar from WS. Inc by making 1 YO after M.1 and 1 YO before M.2. On next row K YOs twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front to avoid holes). Then work the inc sts in garter st.

Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 174-188-200-222-242-262 sts (incl 7 band sts in each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Kid-Silk. Then work as follows, beg from RS: 6 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, P 1 (P on every row), work in garter st until 7 sts remain, finish with P 1 (P on every row) and 6 sts in garter st (the 6 sts in garter st + P 1 = front bands. Work these sts K over K and P over P until finished measurements). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 8 cm, insert 2 markers in the piece; after 47-51-53-59-64-69 sts in from each side (back piece = 80-86-94-104-114-124 sts).
On next row from RS, dec 1 st on each side of marker in each side. Repeat dec every 4 cm a total of 6 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 20 cm, cast off for 1 BUTTON HOLE - see explanation above - on right front band.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 21 cm, inc for collar from WS in each side at the beg and end of row as follows: K 2, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, work front band and in garter st as before until 3 sts remain, finish with 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 2 (= 2 sts inc towards mid front in each side). Repeat inc of 2 sts at beg and end of every 4th row (i.e. work 3 rows without inc, inc again on next row from WS) a total of 10 times - work the inc sts in garter st (collar has now inc to a total of 20 sts in each side and piece measures approx. 31 cm). On next row from WS work LACE PATTERN - see explanation above - as follows: M.1, work in garter st until 14 sts remain (P sts on front bands are worked P as before), finish with M.2. AT THE SAME TIME inc again for collar from WS inside lace pattern in each side towards mid front - READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every 4th row a total of 8-8-10-10-12-12 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm, divide the piece at the markers and finish each part separately.

= 68-74-82-92-102-112 sts. Then cast on 13-13-13-12-12-11 new sts for sleeves at the end of the next 2 rows = 94-100-108-116-126-134 sts. Now work in garter st with PICOT EDGE - see explanation above - over the outermost 4 sts on row in each side until finished measurements (1st row of picot edge beg from RS in left side of piece and on next row from WS in right side of piece). When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, cast off the middle 14-14-16-16-18-18 sts for neck and finish each part separately. Then dec 1 st on next row from neck = 39-42-45-49-53-57 sts remain on needle (after one whole repetition of the picot edge in each side). Cast off when piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm (finish after one whole repetition of the picot edge).

Cast on sts in the side as on back piece and continue M.1 and inc towards the side for collar while AT THE SAME TIME working picot edge over the last 4 sts on row towards the side as on back piece. When all inc are done, there are 68-72-76-81-88-92 sts + M.1 on needle (after one whole repetition of the picot edge in the side). Continue to work like this until piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm. Now cast off the first 39-42-45-49-53-57 sts for shoulder with start from RS = 29-30-31-32-35-35 sts + M.1 remain for collar. Work rest of row. Then work short rows with start from WS: Work 2 rows back and forth over M.1 + the next 8-8-9-9-10-10 sts, work 2 rows back and forth over all sts. Continue with lace pattern and collar sts in garter st until piece measures 7-7-8-8-8-8 cm, measured at the shortest and down to shoulder. Cast off.

Work as left front piece but reversed (continue M.2 as before).

Sew shoulder seams and underarm seams. Sew collar tog mid back and sew on to back of neck. Sew the button on to left front piece.


symbols = K
symbols = 2 YO, on next row work first YO, slip second YO off the needle
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = K 2 twisted tog, i.e. work in
back loop of st instead of front
symbols = K 3 tog
symbols = on this row work only over
the outermost 9 sts
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 130-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (83)

country flag Jac Carey wrote:

Please confirm how many balls of yarn I would need for this pattern. For example pattern says 350gm = 14 balls of Alpaca and 125gm for Kid silk = 5 balls. Thanks Jac

26.02.2022 - 02:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hi, Alpaca 350g = 7 balls (1 ball is 50 g), Kid-Silk 125g = 5 balls (1 ball= 25g). Happy knitting!

27.02.2022 kl. 09:15

country flag Blanc Oriette wrote:

J ai fait une bande du point ajoure sur 14 mailles que j ai cousu au bas du gilet finition tres jolie sur ce modele

16.01.2020 - 12:20

country flag Mapau wrote:

Ce modèle est magnifique, grâce à vos explications j'ai pu le réaliser sans difficultés et le résultat est superbe, à tel point que j'en fait un 2ème.

05.08.2019 - 22:38

country flag Geke Reitsema wrote:

Hallo. mijn vraag is: heb 8 cm gebreid daarna markeerders geplaatst en moet nu 1 steek aan iedere kant van de mark. minderen. is dat dan totaal 4 steken in deze nld of 2 st, en als het 2 st zijn doe ik die dan op het rugpand of het voorpand. mvg Geke

02.03.2015 - 16:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Geke. Je hebt 2 markeerders in het werk. Je mindert aan iedere kant van beide markeerders = 4 st minder in de nld.

03.03.2015 kl. 13:34

country flag Marion wrote:

Ich verstehe nicht, wie die weiteren Zunahmen für den Kragen nach dem Lochmuster zu machen sind. Das Lochmuster ist doch fortlaufend. Bis zu den 31 cm und 20 Maschen pro Seite ist alles klar. Aber wann muss ich dann wieder aufnehmen (10 mal 1M in jeder 4. Reihe)

05.07.2014 - 11:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Marion, die Anleitung wurde an dieser Stelle gerade etwas umformuliert, da sie nicht ganz korrekt war, das dürfte Ihr Problem beheben. Sie nehmen nicht NACH dem Lochmuster zu, sondern gleichzeitig, während Sie das Lochmuster stricken. Wenn es weiterhin Verständnisprobleme gibt, fragen Sie einfach noch einmal. Weiterhin gutes Gelingen!

06.07.2014 kl. 14:16

country flag Hennie wrote:

Ik begrijp het begin van de kanttekening niet. Is de 1e naald onderaan? Ik moet recht breien tot er 14 steken over zijn en dan? M2 onderaan starten of boevenaan? Begin ik dan de volgende naald met M1? Graag uw hulp!

10.05.2012 - 12:50

DROPS Design answered:

U breit M.1 aan de ene kant van het werk (beg nld aan goede kant) en M.2 aan het einde van de nld. Alle telpatronen leest u van rechtsonder naar linksonder en de volgende nld (teruggaand) van rechts naar links.

11.05.2012 kl. 12:26

country flag Jutta wrote:

HAllo,ich verstehe das mit den Zunahmen beim Kragen nicht.Dort steht :am Anfang und am Ende R.für Kragen aufnehmen: 2re, 1Umschl.,1re, 1 Umschl. dann die Blende und ie Krusrippe wie gehabt.Muss die Blende nicht immer am Anfang und Ende der Reihe bleiben? Wenn ich davor aufnehme, verrutscht sie ja nach innen.

29.03.2012 - 17:07

DROPS Design answered:

Due Zunahmen werden am Anfang und am Schluss ganz aussen an der Arbeit gemacht.

30.03.2012 kl. 21:41

country flag Barbara wrote:

Kann ich diese Jacke auch in Karisma stricken ?

18.03.2012 - 08:46

DROPS Design answered:

Nei, Karisma ist zu dünn (garngruppe b). 2 Fäden in Garngruppe A ergeben Garngruppe C (Alaska, Nepa....).

19.03.2012 kl. 09:25

country flag Ans wrote:

Bij het meerderen van het voorpand zijn er meer steken dan aangegeven (moet er 14 x 2 of 1 steek gemeerderd worden, want dit aantal is net het verschil). Ook krijgen wij de kraag niet ver genoeg naar achteren om deze middenachter aan elkaar te kunnen zetten, hebt u hiervoor tips?

29.02.2012 - 21:57

DROPS Design answered:

Helaas begrijpen wij uw vraag niet, wij zien nergens een totaal van 14 gemeerderde st. Kunt u precies aangeven waar in het patroon u vastloopt? gr. Angelique

12.03.2012 kl. 11:09

country flag Annette wrote:

Jeg strikker str. S og i original garn fra Tante Grøn i Odense

10.02.2012 - 19:45

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