DROPS / 130 / 5

Safari by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS sweater with breast pocket and sleeve flaps in Cotton Viscose or Safran. Size: S - XXXL.

Tags: bottom up, pocket, tops,
DROPS design: Pattern no N-130
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
Colour no 26, brown: 400-450-450-500-550-600 g

Or use: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
Colour no 22, light brown: 300-350-350-350-400-450 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm (80 cm) - or size needed to get 23 sts x 30 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm (80 cm) - for rib.

DROPS NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm - for pocket and sleeve flaps.

DROPS WOOD BUTTON COCONUT, NO 515 (20 mm): 1 piece
DROPS WOOD BUTTON COCONUT, NO 516 (15 mm): 2 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIB:
* K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round K YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 212-232-252-280-304-332 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with Cotton Viscose or Safran. Work in Rib - See explanation above - for 7-7-7-9-9-9 cm.
Now switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 16-16-16-20-20-20 sts evenly = 196-216-236-260-284-312 sts. Continue in stocking st. Insert a marker at beg of round and a marker after 98-108-118-130-142-156 sts (these marks the sides). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 13-13-13-15-15-15 cm, inc 1 st on each side of every marker (= 4 new sts per inc) - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat the inc every 6 cm a total of 4 times in all sizes = 212-232-252-276-300-328 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm. Now divide the piece at the markers and finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 106-116-126-138-150-164 sts. Continue to work back and forth on needle while AT THE SAME TIME casting on 1 st for sleeve in each side. Repeat inc of 1 st in each side on every 4th row a total of 4-4-4-4-4-6 times. Then cast on new sts in each side on every other row (= at the end of every row) as follows: Cast on 1 st a total of 2-2-2-4-7-3 times, 2 sts a total of 1-2-4-2-0-0 times, 3 sts a total of 4-3-1-1-0-0 times = 146-154-160-168-172-182 sts.
Continue to cast on 9-7-6-4-5-2 new sts at the end of the next two rows = 164-168-172-176-182-186 sts.
Continue to work until piece measures 55-57-59-60-62-64 cm. Now cast off the middle 38-40-42-44-46-48 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Cast off at the beg of every row from neck as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time, then 1 st after 4 rows = 56-57-58-59-61-62 sts remain for shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm.

FRONT PIECE:
= 106-116-126-138-150-164 sts. Work as on back piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the under sleeve seams inside 1 edge st. Sew the shoulder/upper sleeve seams.

NECKLINE:
Knit up approx. 124 to 148 sts (no that can be divided by 4) around the neck with Cotton Viscose or Safran on double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib - See explanation above - for 2½ cm and loosely cast off with K over K and P over P.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Knit up approx. 80 to 108 sts (no that can be divided by 4) around the edge of one sleeve with Cotton Viscose or Safran on double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib - See explanation above - for 2½ cm, loosely cast off with K over K and P over P. Repeat on the edge of the other sleeve.

BREAST POCKET:
Cast on 35-35-35-39-39-39 sts with Cotton Viscose or Safran on needle size 2.5 mm. Work * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* and end with K 1. Continue in rib until pocket measures 10-10-10-11-11-11 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P. Sew the big button on the middle of the pocket, approx. 1 cm from the edge. Sew the pocket on the chest.

SLEEVE FLAP:
Cast on 13-13-13-15-15-15 sts with Cotton Viscose or Safran on needle size 2.5 mm. Work * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* and end with K 1.
Continue in rib until flap measures 12-12-12-13-13-13 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P. Sew flap on the inside of the rib at the top of the sleeve and fold it over the sleeve. Sew it on the shoulder seam with the little button. Work another flap and sew it on the other sleeve.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 130-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (59)

Tanja 08.05.2019 - 01:01:

Love this pattern. Thank you.

Gertraud 15.01.2019 - 10:20:

Sehr geehrtes Drops-Team, dürfte ich noch einmal um eine Anzwort auf unten stehende Frage bitten, nämlich, ob sich die angegebenen 13cm, nach denen die Zunahmen beginnen, auf die Abmessung ab Bündchen oder ab Unterkannte beziehen. Ich würde mich sehr übereine rasche Antwort freuen, damit ich weiterstricken kann und der Pullover fertig wird. Er soll nömlich ein Geschenk werden. Vielen Dank und freundliche Grüße!

DROPS Design 15.01.2019 kl. 16:20:

Liebe Gertraud, Entschuldigung für die späte Antwort, die 13 cm werden von der Anschlagskante gemessen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Gertraud Sklenak 09.01.2019 - 19:09:

Ich bin soeben mit dem Bündchen fertig geworden und weiß jetzt nicht so recht, ob die 13cm , nach denen man mit den Zunahmen anfangen muss, vom Bündchen weg gerechnet werden oder ab der Unterkante. Leider lässt sich das auch nicht aus dem Schnitt so ganz erschließen. Ich vermute, es sind 13cm ab Bündchen gemeint. Ich möchte nur auf Nummer sicher gehen. Offensichtlich bin ich die einzige, die dieses Problem hat.....Tut mir Leid. Recht herzlichen Dank und schöne Grüße

Markus 13.06.2018 - 13:41:

Liebes DROPS Team,ich bin grade etwas verwirrt:ich stricke Größe XXL, habe die Arbeit geteilt, stricke jetzt das Rückteil: 150 M, dann nehme ich 4x je 1 M. auf beiden Seiten zu (=8 M, =158 M.). Dann 7x am Schluss jeder R. je 1 M (= 7 M. = 165 M.). Ich soll aber lt. Anleitung 172 M. haben, also fehlen mir 7 M. Woher kommen die? Oder sollen die 7 M. nicht nur am Schluss jeder Reihe, sondern an jeder Seite, also am Anfang und am Ende, aufgenommen werden? Danke+viele Grüße Markus

DROPS Design 13.06.2018 kl. 13:53:

Lieber Markus, es wird dann am Ende bei jeder 2. Reihe (d.h. am Ende aller Hin- sowie Rückreihen) 7 x 1 M zugenommen = es sind dann insgesamt 7 M auf beiden Seiten zugenommen, do haben Sie 158 M + 14 = 172 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Markus 13.06.2018 - 12:55:

Liebes DROPS Team,ich bin grade etwas verwirrt:ich stricke Größe XXL, habe die Arbeit geteilt, stricke jetzt das Rückteil: 150 M, dann nehme ich 4x je 1 M. auf beiden Seiten zu (=8 M, =158 M.). Dann 7x am Schluss jeder R. je 1 M (= 7 M. = 165 M.). Ich soll aber lt. Anleitung 172 M. haben, also fehlen mir 7 M. Woher kommen die? Oder sollen die 7 M. nicht nur am Schluss jeder Reihe, sondern an jeder Seite, also am Anfang und am Ende, aufgenommen werden?\r\nDanke+viele Grüße\r\nMarkus

Kathy 29.10.2016 - 04:40:

I would like to know is the gauge done in the round or back and forth?

DROPS Design 30.10.2016 kl. 11:48:

Dear Kathy. The gauge is done back and forth.

Charde-Milou 25.07.2016 - 21:43:

Hallo, bij een aantal andere projecten die ik heb gemaakt via de garnstudio website vallen de maten vrij groot. Is dat ook zo met dit project? Als ik nu meet moet ik namelijk een M breien waar ik bij al mijn andere projecten een S heb gebreen en die vielen vrij groot. Ik brei altijd met de wol van drops. Groetjes!

DROPS Design 26.07.2016 kl. 15:42:

Hoi Charde-Milou. Kijk onderaan het patroon voor de afmetingen per maat in cm. Je kan hier vergelijken met je eigen afmetingen - lees ook hier hoe je onze maattekeningen moet lezen. Het is ook belangrijk om de stekenverhouding in het patroon aan te houden voor de juiste afmetingen.

Mandy Salamon 24.03.2015 - 00:19:

Im a little confused about the pattern it says divide the 116 sts but i should i do with 116 sts do i put them in a piece of yarn on a holder and work on only of 116 sts please let me know as you get this question thank you very much

DROPS Design 24.03.2015 kl. 09:32:

Dear Mrs Salamon, you are correct, you will put the sts for front piece on a thread or a st holder and keep the sts for back piece on needle to continue on back piece, after back piece is done, slip sts for front piece back on needle and work front piece. Happy knitting!

Hanny Bennes 08.10.2014 - 11:51:

Waarom zijn de patronen bijna allemaal met rondbreinaald? heb alles in huis om aan dit truitje te beginnen en zal dat ook zeker gaan doen. ben benieuwd hoe me dit bevalt. is voor mij de 1e keer om zo'n "groot" iets op de rondbreinaald te breien. wish me luck. houd jullie op de hoogte.

DROPS Design 08.10.2014 kl. 17:20:

Hoi Hanny. Rondbreien is zeer uitgebreid in Scandinavië maar ook steeds meer populair in overige landen. Vergeet niet dat je kan ook altijd kijken in onze instructievideo's als je moeite hebt met een techniek. Veel breipleizer.

Caroline 29.05.2014 - 21:24:

Jättefin blev den, och lätt att sticka.

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