Dance With Me |
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Knitted DROPS dress with skirt worked from side to side with short rows and stripes, and knitted top in stocking st with round yoke in "Fabel". Size: S - XXXL
DROPS 128-1 |
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GARTER ST (in the round): *K 1 round and P 1 round*, repeat from *-*. INCREASE TIP: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row knit YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes. DECREASE TIP: Dec by K 2 sts tog. -------------------------------------------------------- DRESS: Beg by working a skirt back and forth on circular needle from side to side. To give the skirt width at the bottom work with short rows. Then work round yoke. LOOSELY cast on 132-134-136-140-142-144 sts on 2 circular needles size 3 mm with 604, ocean view. Pull out one of the needles (to avoid a tight cast on edge) and work as explained below. The entire skirt is worked in Garter st, i.e. K all rows. Work first row as follows (from waist down = WS): Work 8-10-12-14-16-18 sts, insert MARKER 1, work 14-14-14-16-16-16 sts, insert MARKER 2, work 18 sts, insert MARKER 3, work 10 sts, insert MARKER 4, work 10 sts, insert MARKER 5, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 6, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 7, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 8, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 9, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 10, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 11, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 12, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 13, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 14, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 15, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 16, work the remaining 6 sts. Move the markers upwards when working. Continue to work with short rows (NOTE! Tighten the thread on every turn in mid of piece before continuing, to avoid holes) as follows: * Work 2 rows with 100, off white back and forth over all sts (1st row = RS), work 10-10-10-12-12-14 rows with 604, ocean view back and forth over all sts (= 12-12-12-14-14-16 rows in garter st over all sts). Then work until MARKER 1, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 2, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 3, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 4, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 5, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 6, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 7, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 8, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 9, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 10, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 11, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 12, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 13, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 14, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 15, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 16, turn and work back over the remaining 6 sts. Switch to off white and work 2 rows back and forth over all sts. Switch back to ocean view and work until MARKER 16, turn piece and work back. Then work until MARKER 15, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 14, turn piece and work back. Work until MARKER 13, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 12, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 11, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 10, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 9, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 8, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 7, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 6, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 5, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 4, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 3, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 2, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 1, turn and work back. Work 10-10-10-12-12-14 rows back and forth over all sts with ocean view *. Repeat from *-* until piece measures approx. 35-40-45-53-58-60 cm vertically (measured at the shortest when piece is flat on the table) - adjust after one whole repetition, but possibly round down to avoid longer measurements. Insert a marker (= side of dress). Repeat from *-* until piece measures approx. 35-40-45-53-58-60 cm from marker (i.e. front and back piece are the same length) then VERY LOOSELY cast off. ASSEMBLY: Sew skirt tog in the side - sew edge to edge in front loop of outermost st so that the seam is flat. BODY: Beg from RS at side seam and knit up 1 st in every ridge (2 rows in garter st) around the entire opening of the skirt on circular needle size 2.5 mm with off white. P 1 round. K 2 rounds while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting the no of sts to 168-192-216-240-264-288 on 1st round. Then work a lace edge as follows: * 1 YO, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Then K 2 rounds. Then P 1 round and K 1 round. Now insert a marker in each side, i.e. at beg of round and after 84-96-108-120-132-144 sts - move the markers upwards when working. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and ocean view and work in stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd round, inc 1 st on each side each marker - READ INCREASE TIP! (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 1½-1½-2½-2½-3-3 cm a total of 6-6-5-5-5-5 times = 192-216-236-260-284-308 sts. When piece measures 11-12-13-14-15-16 cm from where sts were knitted up for body, cast off 12 sts in each side (i.e. 6 sts on each side of both markers) = 84-96-106-118-130-142 sts remain for front and back piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 74-79-84-89-94-99 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with ocean view. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Work 6 rounds in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME casting off 12 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 6 sts each side of marker) = 62-67-72-77-82-87 sts. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve. YOKE: Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 292-326-356-390-424-458 sts. Work in stocking st with ocean view while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-1-5-0-4-10 sts evenly on 1st round = 286-325-351-390-420-448 sts. Insert 11-13-13-13-14-14 markers in piece with 26-25-27-30-30-32 sts between each. After 5-8-5-5-8-5 rounds in stocking st, dec 1 st before every marker - Read DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec on every 6th round a total of 6-6-7-7-7-8 times, then on every other round a total of 3-3-3-4-5-5 times = 187-208-221-247-252-266 sts. After last dec, switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. K 2 rounds while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting the no of sts to 186-207-219-246-252-264 on last round. ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK: Now work an elevation in back of neck, back and forth on needle as follows: Insert a marker in the middle st mid front. Start mid back and work until 19 sts remain before marker at the front, turn piece, tighten thread and work until 19 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn piece, tighten thread and work until 46 sts remain before marker at the front, turn piece, tighten thread and work until 46 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn piece, tighten thread and work until 67-75-79-85-87-90 sts remain before marker, turn piece, tighten thread and work back until 67-75-79-85-87-90 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn piece, tighten thread and work until mid back. NECKLINE: P 1 round and K 2 rounds, then work lace edge as follows: * 1 YO, K 3 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 124-138-146-164-168-176 sts remain on needle. K 2 rounds while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-8-10-20-18-20 sts evenly on the last round = 118-130-136-144-150-156 sts. P 1 round and K 1 round, and then loosely cast off with P sts. Piece measures approx. 82-85-88-91-94-97 cm when flat, it will be longer when dress is worn. TIE WITH CONE: Crochet a ch-row on hook size 2.5 mm with off white until row measures approx. 130 cm (or desired measurement around waist). Then work 1 sl st in 4th ch from hook (= beg of cone). ROUND 1: Work 6 dc in ch-ring. ROUND 2: Work 2 dc in every dc = 12 dc. ROUND 3: Work * 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 18 dc. ROUND 4-7: Work 1 dc in every dc = 18 dc. ROUND 8: Work * 1 dc in first dc, then work the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 12 dc. ROUND 9: Work 1 dc in every dc = 12 dc. ROUND 10: Crochet all dc tog 2 by 2 = 6 dc. ROUND 11: Work all dc tog 2 by 2 = 3 dc. Cut the thread, baste it up and down through sts, pull the thread to tighten and fasten tightly. Crochet another cone. Beg by working 4 ch and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. Then continue as explained above. Sew this cone to the ch-row after the tie has been inserted in the lace edge. Work another tie for neck with a length of approx. 100 cm. |
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Comments / Questions (141)
Marie wrote:
Je ne me souvenais pas l'avoir déjà remarquée en 2010 trop belle et si seyante, je vais la tricoter même si j'en ai déjà deux de chez Drop en fabel mais à manches longues. Le coloris, la forme , elle est ravissante.
18.08.2016 - 01:01Dorthe Nicolaia Gottlieb wrote:
Er det ikke en fejl, at der skal være et ulige antal huller til snoren i halskanten i str. M (79)?
22.01.2016 - 22:23DROPS Design answered:
Hej Dorthe, Nej det betyder ikke noget, du justerer bare snoren begge ender kommer ud midt foran, enten i samme hul eller ved siden af hinanden. God fornøjelse!
27.01.2016 - 11:36Elin wrote:
Hej! I beskrivningen står (på kjolen) Sticka 12 v fram och tillbaka över alla maskor... Men visst menas 1 v är en "rad" från ex från midja till fåll? eller ska det vara 24 "rader"? MVH Elin
11.01.2016 - 22:12DROPS Design answered:
Hej Elin, Ja 1 varv = 1 rad. Lycka till!
26.01.2016 - 15:37Emelie wrote:
När det ska stickas förhöjning i nacken; ska detta rätstickas eller slätstickas?
04.08.2015 - 13:47DROPS Design answered:
Hej Emelie, Fortsätt så även förhöjningen blir slätstickad! Lycka till!
04.08.2015 - 15:20Aino Peura wrote:
Ilmoitus pienestä virheestä: Mekon suomenkielisestä ohjeesta helman lyhennyksistä puuttuu viimeinen *.
14.07.2015 - 12:47DROPS Design answered:
Kiitos! Ohje on korjattu.
16.07.2015 - 14:13Tone Cecilie wrote:
Jeg ser at andre har kommentert før meg at det virker lite å kun strikke 12 cm i str M før det felles til ermer. Oppskriften går jo utfra at det større størrelse man strikker det høyere er man, det er jo ikke gitt at om man bruker str S så er man lav og om man bruker sts XXL så er man høy. Jeg er 175cm høy og må derfor strikke 16 cm for at denne skal passe til meg.
24.05.2015 - 23:08Pernilla Lindgren wrote:
Hej jag undrar vilken sida som är upp och vilken som är ner är det markör 1 eller 16 för jag får det inte att stämma på vilken sida som det ska ökas mest på tack för hjälpen
01.04.2015 - 11:46DROPS Design answered:
Hej Pernilla, markör 1 är mot midjan och 16 är ner. Du stickar nerifrån och upp till markör 1, vänd och tillbaka ner igen. Upp till markör 2 vänd och tillbaka. Du får flest varv nederst och större vidd. Lycka till!
15.05.2015 - 11:37Renate Feineis wrote:
Liebes Drops Team, ich bin gerade an der Stelle angekommen, wo die Ärmel auf die Rundstricknadel aufgenommen werden. Wenn ich das Kleid an mir "anlege" würde das Kleid viel zu kurz oder die Achsel hängt irgendwo unterhalb der Brust :-(.Gestrickt habe ich Rock, dann kommt gleich darauf die weiße Lochkante und dann 12cm hoch.Aktuell hängt die Lochkante irgendwo vor der Brust, was mir falsch erscheint. Wo hab ich was vergessen? Ich hoffe Ihr könnt mir helfen. Danke!!!!! Gruß Renate
15.03.2015 - 18:52DROPS Design answered:
Sie haben nichts vergessen, das Oberteil ist tatsächlich sehr kurz. Sie können das an sich selbst nachmessen, der Teil ab dem Auffassen der M hat nur eine Länge von insges. 29 cm. Damit kommen Sie darauf, dass die Lochreihe in etwa knapp unter der Brust sitzt. Die Maße sind so beabsichtigt, wir hatten schon Rückfragen dazu. Das Kleid hängt sich durch das Garngewicht noch etwas aus, vielleicht messen Sie es daher nun noch einmal hängend. Sie können den Teil aber auch verlängern, indem Sie nach der Loch-R die Abstände zwischen den Zun. vergrößern - also statt alle 1,5 cm z.B. alle 2 cm zunehmen, das müssten Sie anhand Ihrer Maße errechnen. Der Garnverbrauch wird dadurch größer.
16.03.2015 - 10:02Anne Gro Høgetveit wrote:
Hei. Denne kjolen ser lengre ut på bildet enn målene tilsier. Jeg har kjøpt garn og oppdaget etterpå at den var såpass kort. Min mor skal strikke kjolen for meg, hun er vant til å lese og strikke oppskrifter. Hvordan kan kjolen forlenges? F.eks. 10 cm. Mvh Anne Gro Høgetveit Sendt fra en Samsung Mobil.
27.01.2015 - 21:26DROPS Design answered:
Hej Anne, Man kan følge opskriften til skørtet på en af de større størrelser i længden og så følge sig egen størrelse i bredden. Ellers spørger du din lokale garnbutik, de hjælper gerne til. God fornøjelse!
28.01.2015 - 11:06Katharina wrote:
Kann ich für das Kleid auch " Fabel Print" benutzen? Sieht das Maschenbild dann genau so schön aus wie mit "Fabel"? Danke.
08.12.2014 - 13:28DROPS Design answered:
Der Farbwechsel bei Fabel Print ist kürzer und wirkt dadurch "unruhiger" als bei dem im Modell verwendeten Fabel Long Print, es werden sich dann nicht so breite Farbstreifen innerhalb des bunten Teils ergeben. Die Wolle ist ansonsten gleich, aber es ist natürlich Geschmackssache, ob einem die Farbgebung von Fabel Print gefällt. Anhand der Farbkarten bekommen Sie einen Eindruck, wie Fabel Print im Gegensatz zu Fabel Long Print wirkt.
08.12.2014 - 15:24