DROPS / 120 / 60

Afternoon Romance by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket with stripes and lace pattern in ”Safran”. Size XS - XXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no E-170
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Size: XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

STRIPED JACKET
Materials: DROPS SAFRAN
200-200-200-250-250-300 g colour no 06, denim blue
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour no 05, light blue/purple
150-150-150-150-200-200 g colour no 18, off-white
150-150-150-150-200-200 g colour no 50, light ice blue

WHITE JACKET
Colour no. 17, white:
400-450-500-550-600-650 g
Colour no. 09, navy blue:
50-50-100-100-100-100 g

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm – or size needed to get 23 tr x 12 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS w/hole, no 521: 7 pcs (for the white jacket 7 buttons with a diameter of 1 cm).

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.95£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.3.
STRIPES:
Crochet stripes as follows:
* 1 row off-white, 2 rows ice blue, 2 rows light blue/purple, 2 rows denim blue, 1 row off-white *, repeat from *-*.
INCREASING TIP-1:
Make all inc on rows in diagram with tr only (= row 1, 4, 6 or 8). Inc by working 2 tr in 1 tr.
INCREASING TIP-2:
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in 1 dc.
DECREASING TIP:
Make all dec on rows in diagram with tr only (= row 1, 4, 6 or 8).
Dec 1 tr by working 1 tr but wait with the last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook). Crochet next tr but when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all sts on hook. 1 dec tr. CROCHET TIP:
Replace 1 tr with 3 ch and 1 dc with 1 ch at beg of row.
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WHITE JACKET:
Crochet the jacket the same way as the striped jacket but without stripes. On the sleeves crochet the 2 last rows with dc with navy blue. On lace borders crochet last row in M.3 with navy blue.

STRIPED JACKET
YOKE:
Jacket is crochet from top down, back and forth from mid front.
READ ALL OF THIS SECTION BEFORE BEG!
Crochet 139-150-160-171-182-192 ch with crochet hook size 3 mm and off-white.
Crochet 1 tr in 4th ch from hook and continue as follows: * skip 1 ch, crochet 1 tr in each of the next 3 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with skip 1 ch and 1 tr in each of the last 2-1-3-2-1-3 ch = 103-111-119-127-135-143 tr. Turn piece.
Work next row as follows (beg on row marked 1 in M.1):
M.1A, repeat M.1B 12-13-14-15-16-17 times and finish with M.1C.
AT THE SAME TIME crochet STRIPES - see above.
AT THE SAME TIME on row 1 in diagram inc 32 tr evenly - see INCREASING TIP-1 = 135-143-151-159-167-175 tr.
Repeat the inc on row 4 = 167-175-183-191-199-207 tr, on row 6 = 199-207-215-223-231-239 tr and on row 8 = 231-239-247-255-263-271 tr.
Continue in M.1 and Stripes. AT THE SAME TIME on row 10 inc 40-48-32-32-32-32 tr evenly = 271-287-279-287-295-303 tr.
SIZE XS + S:
Continue in M.1 and Stripes until row 13-14 inclusive. Piece now measures approx 12-13 cm.
SIZE M:
Continue in M.1 and Stripes. AT THE SAME TIME on row 13 inc 32 tr evenly = 311. Continue to row 16 inclusive. Piece now measures approx 14 cm.
SIZE L + XL:
Continue in M.1 and Stripes. AT THE SAME TIME on row 13 inc 24-32 tr evenly = 311-327 tr, and on row 15 inc 32-40 tr evenly = 343-367 tr. Continue to row 17 inclusive. Piece now measures approx 15-16 cm.
Size XXL:
Continue in M.1 and Stripes. AT THE SAME TIME on row 13 inc 32 tr evenly = 335 tr, and on row 15 inc 32 tr evenly = 367 tr, and on row 17 inc 40 tr evenly = 407 tr. Continue to row 19 inclusive. Piece now measures approx 17 cm.

BODY PIECE:
Insert a marker, and now measure piece from here.
Continue with Stripes as before and crochet next row as follows (from mid front) – see CROCHET TIP:
Crochet 1 tr in each of the first 37-40-43-49-53-59 sts, skip 60-62-68-72-76-84 sts, crochet 16-18-20-20-28-28 ch, crochet 1 tr in each of the next 77-83-89-101-109-121 sts (= back piece), skip 60-62-68-72-76-84 sts, crochet 16-18-20-20-28-28 ch, crochet 1 tr in each of the last 37-40-43-49-53-59 sts.
There are now a total of 183-199-215-239-271-295 sts on round. Continue in Stripes and M.2 as follows (NOTE! beg on row 2 in diagram):
M.2C, M.2B on the next 176-192-208-232-264-288 sts, M.2A.
Continue like this until piece measures approx 15 cm from marker (adjust so that next row in M.2 is a row with tr only). Now inc 8 tr evenly - see INCREASING TIP-1 – and repeat the inc on approx every 6 cm a total of 4 times = 215-231-247-271-303-327 sts. When all inc are complete piece measures approx 33 cm from marker. Continue in M.2 and Stripes until stripe pattern is completed. Now continue in M.2 and crochet the next 3 stripes as follows: 1 row off-white, 1 row ice blue, 1 row light blue/purple. Now crochet 1 row denim blue, AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-5-6-16-1-11 tr evenly = 219-236-253-287-304-338 tr.

LACE BORDER:
Now crochet a border along bottom edge with denim blue as follows: Crochet M.3 on all sts. NOTE! Beg on row marked 1 in diagram, on the last repeat crochet on the remaining 15 sts to make pattern identical both sides towards mid front. See CROCHET TIP! After M.3 cut and fasten thread.

LACE BORDER ON YOKE:
Beg mid front with denim blue. Crochet 1 dc in each tr round the last row on yoke = 271-287-311-343-367-407 dc. Continue in M.3, beg on row marked 1 in diagram and AT THE SAME TIME on first row inc 50-51-44-46-56-50 dc evenly - see INCREASING TIP = 321-338-355-389-423-457 dc.
NOTE! On the last repeat crochet on the remaining 15 sts to make pattern identical both sides towards mid front.
AT THE SAME TIME crochet stripes as follows: row 1: off-white, row 2: ice blue, row 3: light blue/purple, row 4: denim blue, row 5: off-white. After M.3 cut and fasten thread.

SLEEVE:
Sleeve is worked back and forth under lace border on yoke. Continue with Stripes and M.2 as on body piece. NOTE! Cut the thread for each stripe, thread end to be used when sewing sleeve seam tog. First part of sleeve is sewn to the edge under sleeve on body piece – see ASSEMBLY.
Crochet 63-63-71-79-79-87 tr with denim blue on sleeve under lace border in the same sts in which lace border was crochet (i.e. crochet in the 60-62-68-72-76-84 tr skipped on body piece, at the same time inc 3-1-3-7-3-3 tr evenly). Insert a marker, and measure sleeve from here.
Continue back and forth in Stripes as follows: M.2A, repeat M.2B on the next 56-56-64-72-72-80 sts, M.2C.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx 7 cm from marker (adjust to a row in M.2 with tr only) dec 4 tr evenly - see DECREASING TIP = 59-59-67-75-75-83 tr. Continue as before.
When sleeve measures approx 25 cm from marker (adjust to a row in M.2 with tr only) dec 4 tr evenly = 55-55-63-71-71-79 tr.
Continue in Stripes and M.2 until there are 4 vertical repeats of M.2, sleeve now measures approx 33 cm from marker. Now crochet 1 tr in each tr with ice blue, then 1 dc in each tr with light blue/purple, and then 1 row denim blue with 1 dc in each dc. Cut and fasten thread.

Crochet the other sleeve in the same way.

LEFT FRONT BAND:
Beg at the top of left front piece. Crochet with crochet hook size 3 mm and denim blue as follows - see CROCHET TIP:
Crochet 1 dc in corner and continue down along front piece as follows * 1 ch, skip approx 0.5 to 1 cm, 1 dc * repeat from *-* and finish with 1 dc at bottom of front piece before lace border. Turn piece. Crochet 1 tr in each dc and in each ch back to neckline. Turn piece. Crochet 1 tr in each tr. Turn piece. Crochet 1 dc in each tr back to neck. Cut and fasten thread.

RIGHT FRONT BAND:
Crochet like left front band, but mirrored, i.e. beg at bottom edge.

NECKLINE:
Beg mid front, in corner on right front band. Crochet with crochet hook size 3 mm and denim blue on front band and continue round neck as follows: 1 dc, * 1 ch, skip approx 0.5 to 1 cm, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 dc in corner on left front piece. Turn piece. Crochet 1 dc in each ch and 1 ch over each dc round neck. Turn piece. Crochet 1 dc in each ch and 1 ch over each dc. Turn piece. Crochet 1 dc in each ch and 1 ch in each dc round neck until 30 sts remain on right front piece (= 15 dc and 15 ch). Turn piece. Crochet 1 dc in each ch and 1 ch over each dc round the neck until 30 sts remain on left front piece. Turn piece. Crochet 1 dc in each ch and 1 ch over each dc round neck until 50 sts remain on right front piece (= 25 dc and 25 ch). Turn piece. Crochet 1 dc in each ch and 1 ch over each dc until 50 sts remain on left front piece. Cut the thread. Beg mid front on right front piece. Crochet 1 dc in each ch and 1 ch over each dc round the whole neck to mid front on left front piece. Cut and fasten thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew under arm seam tog, edge to edge, with thread ends from colour changes. Sew the top 3.5-4-4.5-4.5-6-6 cm to the edge under sleeve on body piece.
Sew buttons to left front band. Place the top button approx 1 cm from top of neckline, the bottom one approx 9 to 12 cm from bottom edge and the remaining 5 with approx 6.5-7-7-7-7.5-7.5 cm between each. Use second tr row on right front band as buttonholes

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 01.08.2018
Additional information on assembly added: Sleeve is worked back and forth under lace border on yoke. Continue with Stripes and M.2 as on body piece. NOTE! Cut the thread for each stripe, thread end to be used when sewing sleeve seam tog. First part of sleeve is sewn to the edge under sleeve on body piece – see ASSEMBLY.

Diagram

= tr
= ch
= tr-group 3 tr in the same st
= dc
= Crochet 1 tr but wait with the last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 tr in the same st but wait the the last pull-through (= 3 sts on hook), work 1 tr in the same st and when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all sts on hook.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 120-60) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (65)

Lisa 26.08.2020 - 20:40:

Liebes Drops-Team! Ich bin jetzt bei den Ärmeln: Ich muss 63 M an die bestehenden 60 stb unter der Spitzenkante anhäkeln, aber was passiert mit den 16 Lm? Ich hoffe Sie können es verständlich Erklären. Da eine ähnliche Frage schonmal gestellt wurde, ich aber aus Ihrer Antwort nicht schlau wurde. Mit freundlichen Grüßen Lisa

DROPS Design 27.08.2020 kl. 09:35:

Liebe Lisa, die 16 Lm unter der Ärmel werden nicht gehäkelt, die Ärmel ist in Reihen gehäkelt, dann werden die ersten 3,5 cm am Armausschnitt zusammengenäht. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Malou-Cheanne Ananiassen 20.08.2020 - 09:57:

Hej, I har lige svaret på mit spørgsmål. Tror ikke I fik læst ordentligt. Den måler 33 cm, derfor refererer jeg til for og rygstk, hvilket jeg også skriver først i mit spørgsmål. IKKE bærestykket. Generelt lyder det slet ikke til I har læst noget, siden svaret er til noget HELT andet. Hvor lang skal den være? Det står ikke i opskriften. Der står kun hvor lang bærestykket skal være. Jeg laver den i XS. Forstår ikke måle skemaet. Og sidste række i M3 hækles hvordan?

Malou-Cheanne Ananiassen 20.08.2020 - 09:55:

Hej, I har lige svaret på mit spørgsmål. Tror ikke I fik læst ordentligt. Den måler 33 cm, derfor refererer jeg til for og rygstk, hvilket jeg også skriver først i mit spørgsmål. IKKE bærestykket. Generelt lyder det slet ikke til I har læst noget, siden svaret er til noget HELT andet. Hvor lang skal den være? Det står ikke i opskriften. Der står kun hvor lang bærestykket skal være. Størrelse er XS. Forstår ikke måle skemaet. Og sidste række i M3 hækles hvordan?

Malou-Cheanne Ananiassen 18.08.2020 - 22:16:

Sidste række i m3, er det 3 luftmasker, eller en stang måske, luftmaske, stangmaske? Og i så fald, hvordan er den 3. bue?

DROPS Design 20.08.2020 kl. 12:24:

Hej Malou, sidste række i M.3 består af 5 fm, 3lm, 2fm, 3lm osv. God fornøjelse!

Malou-Cheanne Ananiassen 12.08.2020 - 17:59:

Hej, jeg er i gang med den og er i gang med for og rygstk. Jeg har udtaget 4 gange nu og har 215 stangmasker. Hvor langt skal jeg fortsætte den? Jeg forstår ikke helt opskriften der. Jeg hækler i hvid og ikke striber. Den måler 33 cm fra mærketråden. Hvor langt skal den måle, før jeg går til blondekanten?

DROPS Design 20.08.2020 kl. 08:13:

Hej Malou, nu ved vi ikke hvilken størrelse du hækler. Men du tager kun ud på de rækker der står i opskriften for din størrelse, altså på række 1, 4,6 ,8, 10 (ikke flere udtagninger i str XS-S, men på de andre størrelser ifølge opskriften. Du ser også i opskriften hvad hver størrelse skal måle når du er færdig med udtagningerne på bærestykket. Hækler du i DROPS Safran og holder hæklefastheden med 12 rækker på 10 cm, så får du målene som der står i opskriften. God fornøjelse!

Martina 24.05.2020 - 22:34:

Buonasera, non riesco a capire la distribuzione degli aumenti per lo scollo. Mi è chiaro che si debbano lavorare due maglie alte in una, ma non riesco a capire ogni quante maglie

DROPS Design 25.05.2020 kl. 09:28:

Buongiorno Martina. Deve dividere il numero di m che ha per il numero di aumenti da fare. Il risultato indica quante m lasciare tra un aumento e l'altro. P.es, per la taglia XS: ha 103 m e deve aumentarne 32. Qundi 103 : 32 = 3,2. Deve aumentare ogni 3 maglie circa. In modo analogo per le altre taglie. Buon lavoro!

Eva Bäckström 24.05.2020 - 15:53:

Hej jag virkar Afternoon Romance och har kommit till oket och har 183 maskor. Vad gör jag sedan? Jag har virkat 37 st maskat av 60 16 lm 77st maskat av 60 16 lm och37st pch volangkanten runt oket. Sedan står det virka 176? Var? Tack för hjälp

DROPS Design 03.06.2020 kl. 07:29:

Hei Eva. Du har nå 183 masker totalt på omgangen. Det fortsettes videre med Striper og M.2 slik (NB! start på Rad 2 i diag): Hekle M.2C (=over 3 masker), M.2B over de neste 176 masker og M.2A (=over 7 masker) = 183 masker. Så hekles det videre, les oppskriften, før blondekanten hekles. God Fornøyelse!

Nadine 28.03.2020 - 16:02:

Goedemiddag, op het lijf moet je vasten haken om de stokjes van de laatste toer op de pas (voor het randje rondom). Is er een video hoe je dit doet? Ik vind het heel lastig en weet niet hoe te beginnen. Er staat ook geen video bij de 7 aanbevolen video's behorende bij dit patroon. Bij voorbaat dank voor uw hulp. Mvg,

DROPS Design 29.03.2020 kl. 11:57:

Dag Nadine,

Het is de bedoeling dat je in plaats van in de stokjes om de stokjes heen haakt. Bijvoorbeeld bij de voorbies haak je als het ware dwars op de stokjes. Als je de haaknaald insteekt, doe je dat om de stokjes heen en niet erin.

Jennifer Dorndorf 24.11.2019 - 20:57:

Hallo Ich befinde mich am Rücken/Vorderteil. Ich muss gleichmäßig verteilt, alle 6cm 8 Stb aufnehmen, 4 mal insgesamt. Ich arbeite Größe XS und habe wie in der Anleitung 176 Maschen. Wenn ich die die Maschen aufnehme, komme ich nicht auf 215!

DROPS Design 25.11.2019 kl. 10:32:

Liebe Frau Dorndorf, Sie habe 183 Maschen im Total für den Rumpfteil, dann nehmen Sie 8 Maschen 4 Mal = 32 Maschen zugenommen, es sind dann 183 + 32 = 215 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Nadine 11.11.2019 - 17:47:

Is het ook mogelijk het model van dit vest getailleerd te maken? Heeft u daar tips voor? Of, indien niet mogelijk, gewoon recht naar beneden lopend? Als het zo wijd uitloopt wordt het zo'n jurkje, dat vind ik niet zo mooi. Kan ik de meerderingen van het lijf, 15 cm onder de pas, dan gewoon achterwege laten? Het zijn er eerst 32, en dan nog eens 16. Mijn vest wordt dan zo wijd... Kloppen mijn steken dan nog?

DROPS Design 15.11.2019 kl. 12:36:

Dag Nadine,

Helaas is het voor ons niet mogelijk om persoonlijke aanpassingen op patronen te maken. Je zou kunnen kijken of je minderingen kunt maken in de taille door bijvoorbeeld steken samen te haken.

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