DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Gypsy Charm

Knitted DROPS jacket in ”Alpaca” and ”Vivaldi” with flounces. Size S to XXXL

DROPS 126-35
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-514
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
400-400-450-500-550-600 g colour no 3800, medium purple
and use: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350-350 g colour no 32, lilac

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 4.5 mm – for rib

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INCREASING TIP: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 and M.2. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 827-899-953-1025-1133-1223 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). K 1 row from WS and continue as follows from RS: 4 garter sts, K9, * P9/K9 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 4 garter sts. Work 2 rows like this, on next row (from RS) K2 tog on the first 8 sts in each K/P section = 463-503-533-573-633-683 sts. Work 1 row in rib K5/P5 with 4 garter sts each side. On next row K2 tog on the first 4 sts in each K/P section = 281-305-323-347-383-413 sts. Work 2 cm rib K3/P3 with 4 garter sts each side. On next row from RS dec 1 st in each K-section = 235-255-270-290-320-345 sts. Work 1 row rib K2/P3 – as seen from RS. On next row (= RS) dec 1 st in each P-section = 190-206-218-234-258-278 sts. Work 2 cm rib K2 /P2 with 4 garter sts each side. Change to circular needle size 5 mm, and continue in stocking st with 4 garter sts each side. Piece now measures 8 cm. Insert a marker after 95-103-109-117-129-139 sts (= mid back). When piece measures 10 cm dec 1 st each side of marker, repeat the dec on every 11-12-12-12-13-13 cm a total of 4 times = 182-198-210-226-250-270 sts. When piece measures 49-50-51-52-53-54 cm divide for armhole as follows – from RS:

RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Slip the last 127-142-153-168-191-210 sts on a stitch holder, and only work the first 55-56-57-58-59-60 sts. Work stocking st with 4 garter sts at the side until piece measures 69-71-73-75-77-79 cm. Put piece aside.

LEFT FRONT PIECE: Slip the last 55-56-57-58-59-60 sts left on needle, work like right front piece.

BACK PIECE: Slip the remaining 72-86-96-110-132-150 sts back on needle. Cast off 6-12-16-22-32-40 sts at the beg off the next 2 rows each side for armhole = 60-62-64-66-68-70 sts. Work stocking st until piece measures 69-71-73-75-77-79 cm.

Slip all sts back on the same needle = 170-174-178-182-186-190 sts. Work stocking st until piece measures 89-91-93-95-97-99 cm. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm, and continue in rib as follows – from RS: * K2, P2 * with 4 garter sts each side. When piece measures 2 cm inc 1 st in each P-section – see INCREASING TIP! = 210-215-220-225-230-235 sts. Continue in rib K2/P3 – as seen from RS - for 1 cm. On next row inc 1 st in each K-section – see INCREASING TIP! = 251-257-263-269-275-281 sts. Continue in rib K3/ P3 for 2 cm. On next row work M.1 on all sts (garter sts each side as before) = 413-423-433-443-453-463 sts. Work 1 row K5/P5. On next row work M.2 on all sts (garter sts each side as before) = 737-755-773-791-809-827 sts. Work 1 row K9/P9. Cast off loosely with K over K and P over P. Piece measures approx 97-99-101-103-105-107 cm.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 40-42-42-44-46-48 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Work garter st. When piece measures 4 cm continue in stocking st. When piece measures 8 cm inc 1 st each side, repeat the inc on every 4-3.5-3-2.5-2-2 cm a total of 10-11-13-14-16-17 times = 60-64-68-72-78-82 sts. When piece measures 49-49-48-48-46-45 cm - NOTE: Less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder- cast off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row each side as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 0-1-2-3-5-7 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 55-56-56-57-57-58 cm, now cast off 3 sts 1 time each side, and cast off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 56-57-57-58-58-59 cm.

ASSEMBLY: Set in sleeves and sew under arm seams.

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = P
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 126-35

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Aurelie wrote:

Bonjour , le modèle présenté peut être tricoter avec la laine drops eskimo ? MERCI DE VOTRE REPONSE

10.11.2017 - 19:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Aurélie, ce modèle peut se tricoter avec 1 autre fil du groupe A et 1 autre fil du groupe C (type Brushed Alpaca Silk), mais pas avec un fil du groupe E comme Eskimo. Vous trouverez plus d'infos sur les alternatives ici. Bon tricot!

13.11.2017 - 11:43

Diane wrote:

Avec quelle autre sorte de fil peut on faire ce chandail? Je veux dire si on en prend seulement un. Merci..

26.04.2014 - 01:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Diane, cliquez ici pour trouver toutes les qualités DROPS classées par groupe et les équivalences possibles. Votre magasin DROPS saura également vous conseiller. Bon tricot!

26.04.2014 - 10:00

Brygida Jurczyk wrote:

Vielen Dank fuer die schnelle Antwort ,also mache ich weiter! Muster ist ja super und garn toll!

19.11.2013 - 12:31

Brygida Jurczyk wrote:

Ich habe eine Frage zur Anleitung von Nr. 126-35:was heisst 2 R "so" stricken ( wieder Muster wiederholen oder wie die Maschen vom Nadelfallen). Bitte beantworten Sie mir die Frage bald, sonst bleibe ich mit der Arbeit stehen!!! Vielen Dank!!!

18.11.2013 - 17:46

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Brygida, 2 R. so stricken bedeutet 2 R so stricken, wie es gerade beschrieben wurde.

19.11.2013 - 09:17

country flag Steck Karin wrote:

Ich habe eine Frage zur Anleitung von Nr. 126-35. Ist die Jacke mit Doppelfaden gestrickt (von jeder Wollart)? Bitte teilen Sie mir dies bald mit, dass ich anfangen kann zu stricken!! Danke!

11.02.2013 - 21:02

DROPS Design answered:

Guten Tag Frau Steck, die Jacke wird mit 1 Faden jeder Qualität gestrickt (siehe 1. Zeile in der Anleitung).

12.02.2013 - 11:47

country flag Joyce wrote:

Hoi, Kijk misschien niet goed, maar ik kan telpatroon m2 nergens terugvinden. Als ik naar de foto kijk, lijkt het of het boord ook uit ruches bestaat, maar dit vind ik niet in de beschrijving. Tevens is me niet duidelijk uit de tekening hoe breed voorpand en achterpand samen zijn. Dit om te bepalen welke maat nodig is.

16.01.2013 - 13:10

DROPS Design answered:

Telpatroon M.2 staat onderaan het patroon net onder M.1. Je maakt ruches langs de onderkant/boord door de minderingen te maken in het patroon. Wij geven alleen de afmeting weer voor het achterpand omdat de voorpanden los moeten hangen. Maar gebruik de stekenverhouding om de breedte te berekenen.

16.01.2013 - 16:05

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

If you need support, we kindly ask you to go to the shop where you bought the yarn. When you buy original Garnstudio yarn, you can be sure that you have bought yarn from a shop that will give you all the help you may need also by phone or email.

30.08.2011 - 09:19

country flag Lisa wrote:

Ruffle edge instructions are vague. Drops patterns tend toward vagueness anyway. Will have to do it my way since I can't write a long enough message to clarify...

30.08.2011 - 03:06

country flag Lisa wrote:

I would LOVE to be able to ask you a question about the vagueness of this pattern but apparently even keeping it to a minimum is too long for your system. FRUSTRATING!!!!!!!

30.08.2011 - 03:04

Karla Maia wrote:

Vocês estão de parabens. A facilidade de obter receitas é maravilhosa.

09.09.2010 - 21:46