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  1. Návody zdarma
  2. Dámské
  3. Ponožky a papučky
  4. Ponožky
  5. DROPS
  6. 121
  7. 15

Zen Zoe by DROPS Design

DROPS ponožky s copánkovým vzorem z příze "Karisma".

Tagy: copánek, ponožky, pružný vzor

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DROPS 121-15
Velikost: 35/37-38/40-41/43
Délka chodidla: asi 22-24-27 cm
Výška ponožky: asi 28-30-31 cm

Materiál: DROPS KARISMA firmy Garnstudio
150-150-200 g, barva č.43, ledová modrá

DROPS SADA PONOŽKOVÝCH JEHLIC č.3 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 23 ok x 32 řad lícovým žerzejem = 10 x 10 cm.

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Zkušební vzorek – Podívejte se, jak ho měřit a proč
Náhradní příze – Podívejte se, jak změnit přízi
Skupina přízí A až F – Neměňte návod, změňte přízi
Spotřeba příze při použití náhradní příze – Využijte náš převodník

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100% vlna 		od 70.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 70.00 Kč /50g
Ganella 		Objednat
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 70.00 Kč /50g
Ganella 		Objednat
needles Jehlice a háčky Objednat
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 210Kč. Více zde.

Návod

VZOR:
Viz schémata M.1A a M.1B, vzor je v nich nahlížen z lícové strany.

TIP - TVAROVÁNÍ PATY:
1. řada (= lícová): pleteme po posledních 7-8-9 ok v řadě, 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 oko upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme, otočíme práci.
2.ř. (= rubová): pleteme po posledních 7-8-9 ok v řadě, 1 oko sejmeme obrace, 1 oko upleteme obrace a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme, práci otočíme.
3.ř. (= lícová): pleteme po posledních 6-7-8 ok v řadě, 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 oko upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme, otočíme práci.
4.ř. (= rubová): pleteme po posledních 6-7-8 ok v řadě, 1 oko sejmeme obrace, 1 oko upleteme obrace a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme, práci otočíme.
Tímto způsobem pokračujeme v ujímání (vždy o 1 oko snížíme počet ok zbylých v řadě) dokud nám v řadě nezůstane 10-12-14 ok.
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PONOŽKA:
Pleteme v kruhových řadách na ponožkových jehlicích. Na ponožkové jehlice č.3 nahodíme přízí Karisma 51-58-65 ok a upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce. Pokračujeme takto: nad prvními 25-30-35 oky pleteme žebrovým vzorem 2/3 (tj. 2 oka hladce, 3 obrace), 2 oka hladce, 2-3-4 oka obrace, vzor M.1A (= 20 ok), 2-3-4 oka obrace. Ve výši 5 cm pleteme nad vzorem M.1A vzorem M.1B, ostatní oka pleteme jako dosud.
Takto pokračujeme do výše 21-22-23 cm. Nyní ujmeme 1 oko v každém z prvních 5-6-7 „žeber“ pletených obrace (pozn.: ujímáme spletením 2 ok obrace, „žebra“ těsně vedle vzoru M.1B necháme bez ujímání) = 46-52-58 ok. Pokračujeme žebrovým vzorem a vzorem M.1B. Ve výši 23-24-25 cm necháme prvních 22-26-30 ok na jehlici (= pata) a zbylých 24-26-28 ok odložíme na pomocnou jehlici (= horní část, nárt). Nad oky na jehlici (= pata) upleteme v rovných řadách 5-5,5-6 cm lícovým žerzejem, pak umístíme do pleteniny značku. Nyní tvarujeme patu – viz TIP.
Po dokončení tvarování paty nabereme po obou stranách paty 11-13-15 ok a odložených 24-26-28 ok z pomocné jehlice vrátíme zpět na jehlici = 56-64-72 ok. Po stranách nártové části (= 24-26-28 ok) umístíme značky. Pokračujeme vzorem M.1 + 2-3-4 oka obrace na každé straně svrchní části ponožky (nártu), spodní část ponožky pleteme lícovým žerzejem. SOUČASNĚ ujímáme na obou stranách takto: na nártové části před 1. značkou spleteme 2 oka hladce anglicky a za 2. značkou spleteme 2 oka hladce; ujímání opakujeme v každé 2. kruhové řadě, celkem 7x = 42-50-58 ok. Pokračujeme do výše asi 18-19-21 cm od značky na patě (= zbývá asi 4-5-6 cm). Nyní vložíme do pleteniny na obou stranách značku tak, abychom na svrchní části (nártu) i na spodní části (šlapce) ponožky měli 21-25-29 ok. Nad všemi oky pleteme lícovým žerzejem. SOUČASNĚ tvarujeme špičku – ujímáme 1 oko po obou stranách obou značek, takto: 2 oka před značkou spleteme hladce, 2 oka za značkou spleteme hladce anglicky. Ujímání opakujeme 4-6-7x na obou stranách v každé 2. kruhové řadě, pak ještě 5-4-5x v každé kruhové řadě = 6-10-10 zbylých ok. Pak přízi odstřihneme, protáhneme zbylými oky, utáhneme a zapošijeme.

Návod byl opraven. .

Poslední úpravy: 14.09.2010
Rearranged chart symbols.

Schéma

symbols = hladce
symbols = obrace
symbols = 2 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici PŘED práci, 2 oka upleteme hladce, 2 oka z pom. jehlice hladce
symbols = 2 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici ZA práci, 2 oka upleteme hladce, 2 oka z pom. jehlice hladce
symbols = 2 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici PŘED práci, 2 oka upleteme obrace, 2 oka z pom. jehlice hladce
symbols = 2 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici ZA práci, 2 oka upleteme hladce, 2 oka z pom. jehlice obrace
diagram

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Každý náš návod je doprovázen speciálními video-ukázkami, které vás navedou.

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Máme takopodrobné rozpisy různých technik a postupů krok za krokem - najdete je zde.

A velmi užitečný slovníček!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

nahoru

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

nahoru

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

nahoru

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

nahoru

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

nahoru

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

nahoru

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

nahoru

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

nahoru

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

nahoru

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

nahoru

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

nahoru

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

nahoru

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

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Komentáře / Otázky (16)

country flag Shubhangi Kundu wrote:

Hello! I think the chart diagram needs to be corrected as it simply does not match the socks shown in the picture. Kindly correct it or provide a link of the correct diagram.

02.10.2021 - 01:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Shubhangi, according to Ravelry, quite a large number of people managed to make the socks based on the diagram. If there is a particular part you do not understand, let us know and we will try to help you through. Happy Stitching!

03.10.2021 kl. 12:21

country flag Ziemens wrote:

Sind in der Strickschrift nur die Hinreihen oder auch die Rückreihen angegeben

17.01.2021 - 18:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ziemens, alle Reihen sind im Diagram gezeigt, dh die Hin- sowie de Rückreihen - hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagramme. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.01.2021 kl. 10:06

country flag Gro-Dagmar wrote:

Hei ! Har funnet ut av det. Hadde bare lest litt feil.

13.03.2020 - 22:29

country flag Gro-Dagmar wrote:

Hei ! Har ikke strikket en slik hæl før. Nå har jeg gjort det. Men når jeg skal felle 7 ganger etterpå, 2 m på hver side av merketråden da feller jeg jo inn på mønster M.1B . Er det rett ? mvh Gro-Dagmar

13.03.2020 - 09:10

country flag DERAS Marie-Danièle wrote:

Bonjour pouvez vous me dire on commence la torsade en partant du bas ou du haut du diagrame merci de ce que vous pourrez me dire marie danièle

03.06.2018 - 17:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonsoir Marie-Danièle! Vous commencez la torsade en partant du bas du diagrame, par le coin en bas à droite . Bon tricot!

03.06.2018 kl. 22:49

country flag Silje wrote:

Hei Hva menes med "Videre fortsettes det med M.1 + 2 vi i hver side oppå foten" ? Er M.1 = M.1 B? Og hva betyr "vi"? På forhånd takk.

07.01.2018 - 22:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Silje. Her har det blitt en tastefeil. "vi" skal være "vr" (=vrang). Og det skal være M.1B (B`en manglet). Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette, dette er nå rettet. God fornøyelse videre!

11.01.2018 kl. 13:23

Indre wrote:

I am sorry for repeat. Thank you for information.

16.12.2014 - 22:26

Indre wrote:

The cable scheme does not match the cable pattern that is visible in the picture of socks.

16.12.2014 - 22:22

Indre wrote:

The cable scheme does not match the cable pattern that is visible in the picture of socks.

16.12.2014 - 00:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Indre, please click here to read more about diagrams - remember you work here in the round, all rounds will be worked reading from the right towards the left. Happy knitting!

16.12.2014 kl. 10:02

country flag Lena Henriksen wrote:

Der er to forskellige symboler til snoning over 4 masker med fuldstændig same tekst. (De to første). Er det en fejl ? Og skal de strikkes ens ?

30.09.2014 - 08:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lena. Nej, det er en lille tastefejl. Andet symbol skal vaere: sæt 2 m på hj.p bag arb, 2 r, 2 r fra hj.p. Vi skal faa det rettet hurtigst muligt. Tak for meldingen.

30.09.2014 kl. 16:28

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Zen Zoe

Martina, Czech Republic

121-15 Zen Zoe

Martina, Czech Republic
© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S Vyhrazujeme si veškerá práva. Tento materiál, včetně všech jeho jednotlivých částí, je chráněn autorskými právy.
Jak můžete zacházet s našimi návody? Můžete sdílet DROPS návody online, s použitím původní fotky, uvedením originální příze, jména a čísla modelu. Ale JE ZAKÁZÁNO jakkoli reprodukovat či kopírovat celé návody v digitální podobě. Obchody s přízí mohou využívat databázi DROPS návodů k podpoře prodeje našich produktů. Návody si můžete vytisknout v libovolném počtu kopií. Žádáme vás o jedinou věc: nedělejte žádné úpravy a změny v tištěném originálu, ani původní návod v tištěné podobě nijak nedoplňujte. A také respektujte pravidlo DROPS a návody poskytujte klientům zdarma. Vydavatele, kteří by rádi zveřejnili naše návody v tištěných knihách nebo časopisech, prosíme, aby nás kontaktovali - rádi jim poskytneme podrobnější informace. Prodej výrobků vytvořených podle návodů DROPS je povolen pouze v případě, že jde o prodej jednotlivých kusů nebo výrobu na zakázku. Větší komerční využití návodů dovoleno není. U každého výrobku musí být rovněž jasně a zřetelně uvedeno, že jde o výrobek podle modelu z kolekce DROPS DESIGN. Opatřit nášivkami či visačkami oděvy, které využívají DROPS DESIGN je podmíněno uvedením následujícího textu: "Model DROPS DESIGN vytvořil/a...(doplňte jméno člověka, který oděv vyrobil)". Použití fotografií DROPS pro marketingové účely/prodej je povoleno výhradně v přímé souvislosti s použitím/prodejem přízí, pomůcek a doplňků DROPS. Fotografie nesmí být vystřižené, ořezané ani jinak upravené a logo na nich musí zůstat zřetelně viditelné.
Vyhrazujeme si právo kdykoli stáhnout povolení k užívání, a to bez udání důvodu.