DROPS Baby / 19 / 19

Sweet Sorbet by DROPS Design

Set of dress with textured pattern plus booties with ruffles for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino

DROPS design: Pattern no BM-022-by-BM-023-by
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DRESS:

Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56- 62/68- 74/80 (86/92-98/104)
Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO
100-150-150 (200-200) g colour no 15, light purple

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) size 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) size 2.5 mm – for rib.
DROPS WOODEN BUTTON LIGHT, no 503: 4 pcs.
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BOOTIE:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm
Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO
50 g for all sizes colour no 15, light purple

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
DRESS:
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
DOUBLE MOSS ST:
Row 1: * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over K and P over P.
Row 3: P over K and K over P.
Row 4: like row 2.
Repeat row 1-4.
DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows before marker, beg 2 sts before marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
Dec as follows after marker: K2 tog.
PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1 and M.2. Diagrams show the pattern from RS.
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DRESS:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 392-420-448 (476-504) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino. Work rib as follows: P2, * K10, P4 *, repeat from *-* until 12 sts remain and finish with K10 and P2.
Continue like this for 5-5-6 (6-7) cm. Now dec 1 st on both sides of each K-section by working the K10 as follows (work the P4 as before): slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, K sts until 2 sts remain, K2 tog.
Repeat this dec on every other round a total of 4 times = 168-180-192 (204-216) sts. Work 1 round with K over K and P over P. Change to circular needle size 3 mm and K 1 round on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 36-36-32 (28-32) sts evenly = 132-144-160 (176-184) sts.
Insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 66-72-80 (88-92) sts (to mark the sides). Now measure piece from here!
Continue in stocking st on all sts.
When piece measures 2-2-3 (3-3) cm from marker dec 1 st on each side of both markers – see DECREASING TIP - on every 2-2-2 (3-3.5) cm a total of 5 times = 112-124-140 (156-164) sts. Continue until piece measures 11-12-13 (16-18) cm from marker. Now work M.1 on all sts. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 continue in DOUBLE MOSS ST – see above - on all sts.
When piece measures 16-17-19 (23-27) cm from marker cast off 6 sts each side (i.e. 3 sts on each side of marker) for armhole. Now complete front and back pieces separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 50-56-64 (72-76) sts. Continue back and forth on needle in double moss st. AT THE SAME TIME cast off to shape the armhole each side on every other row: 2 sts 4 times and 1 st 1 time = 32-38-46 (54-58) sts.
Now work M.2 on all sts. After 1 vertical repeat of M.2 continue in double moss st until piece measures 24-26-29 (34-39) cm from marker. Now cast off the middle 18-22-24 (26-30) sts for neck and complete each side separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 6-7-10 (13-13) sts left on shoulder. Piece now measures approx 25-27-30 (35-40) cm from marker. Slip sts on a stitch holder.

FRONT PIECE:
= 50-56-64 (72-76) sts.
Continue back and forth on needle in double moss st, AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armhole as described for back piece = 32-38-46 (54-58) sts. Now work M.2 on all sts. After 1 vertical repeat of M.2 continue in double moss st until piece measures approx 21-22-25 (29-34) cm from marker. Now cast off the middle 10-14-16 (18-22) sts for neck and complete each side separately.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
= 11-12-15 (18-18) sts. Continue in double moss st. AT THE SAME TIME cast off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 1 time = 6-7-10 (13-13) sts left on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 25-27-30 (35-40) cm. Slip sts on a stitch holder.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Like right shoulder.

NECKLINE:
Pick up 48 to 64 sts (divisible by 4) from RS round neck on front piece on circular needle size 2.5 mm. K 1 row from WS and continue as follows from RS: 1 GARTER ST – see above, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 1 garter st.
Continue like this back and forth on needle until neckline measures 2-2-2 (3-3) cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P.
Pick up 32 to 48 sts (divisible by 4) from RS round neck on back piece. K 1 row from WS and continue as follows from RS: 1 garter st, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 1 garter st.
Continue like this back and forth on needle until neckline measures 2-2-2 (3-3) cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P.

EDGE ROUND ARMHOLE:
Beg by shoulder. Pick up 52 to 84 sts (divisible by 4) from RS round armhole on circular needle size 2.5 mm. K 1 row from WS and continue as follows from RS: 1 garter st, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 1 garter st.
Continue like this back and forth on needle until edge measures 2-2-2 (3-3) cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P.

BUTTON BAND FRONT PIECE:
Right shoulder:
Pick up 6-6-6 (8-8) sts inside 1 garter st on neckline on circular needle size 2.5 mm, work the 6-7-10 (13-13) sts from stitch holder on shoulder back on needle and then pick up 6-6-6 (8-8) sts inside 1 garter st on armhole edge = 18-19-22 (29-29) sts. K 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-1-2 (3-3) sts evenly = 20-20-24 (32-32) sts. Continue as follows from RS: 1 garter st, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 1 garter st. Continue like this until edge measures approx 1 cm. Now make buttonholes as follows (from RS): 1 garter st, K2, P2, K2 tog, 1 YO, P2, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remain, 1 YO, K2 tog, P2, K2 and 1 garter st. Continue in rib as before until edge measures 2 to 3 cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P.

Left shoulder:
Like right shoulder.

BUTTON EDGE BACK PIECE:
Work edge for 2-3 cm on each shoulder as described for front piece, but WITHOUT buttonholes.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons on shoulders.
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BOOTIE:
Worked back and forth on needle from mid back. Cast on 122-122-134 (134-146) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino. P 1 row from WS and work 2 rows rib P3/K9 with 1 edge st each side. On next row dec all K9 to K7 as follows (work all P3 and 1 edge st each side as before): slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, K sts in K-section until 2 sts remain, K2 tog = 102-102-112 (112-122) sts. Work 1 row with K over K and P over P. On next row dec all K7 to K5 in the same way as before = 82-82-90 (90-98) sts. Work 1 row with K over K and P over P. On next row dec all K5 to K3 in the same way as before = 62-62-68 (68-74) sts. Work 1 row with K over K and P over P. On next row dec all K3 to K1 as follows (work all P3 and 1 edge st each side as before): slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso = 42-42-46 (46-50) sts. Now continue in rib P3/K1 with 1 edge st each side until piece measures 5-6-6 (7-7) cm - adjust to a row from WS. P 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 7-3-7 (3-7) sts evenly = 35-39-39 (43-43) sts. K 6 rows on all sts. Now slip 12-12-12 (16-16) sts each side on stitch holders = 11-15-15 (11-11) sts left on needle (= upper foot). Work 4-4.5-5 (6-8) cm rib on these sts as follows (as seen from RS): * P3, K1 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P3. Now pick up 10-11-13 (16-21) sts each side of upper foot and slip sts from stitch holders back on needle = 55-61-65 (75-85) sts in total. Continue K these sts back and forth on needle from mid back - AT THE SAME TIME after 1.5-2.5-3 (3-4) cm dec as follows: K2 tog at the beg and end of row and each side of the middle st. Repeat the dec on every other row until piece measures 3-4-5 (5-6) cm from where sts were picked up. Cast off and sew seam under foot in outer loops of sts. Sew seam up along rib mid back inside 1 edge st.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 16.04.2010
DRESS: Some numbers on the online pattern for the smallest size has been changed. The printed books are correct.
Updated online: 09.09.2010
Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100-150-150 (200-200) g color no 15, light purple

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 19-19) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (32)

Erika 23.08.2019 - 12:18:

Knopflochblende am Vorderteil, rechte Schulter. ich soll die Maschen vom Hilfsfaden auf die Nadel nehmen...sind hier nur die Maschen vom Vorderteil gemeint und wenn ja, was mache ich mit den Maschen von Rückenteil, denn die sind ja auch noch auf dem Hilfsfaden.

DROPS Design 23.08.2019 kl. 14:45:

Liebe Erika, die stricken Sie später - siehe KNOPFBLENDEM AM RÜCKENTEIL. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Linda 04.03.2019 - 01:06:

Veldig søt kjole, enkel å strikke. Den ser jo avansert ut, men oppskriften er helt grei å følge.

Francesca 14.11.2018 - 11:06:

Buongiorno! Sono arrivata a riprendere le maglie per davanti dietro e scalfi ma le indicazioni danno due riferimenti oltanto di numero di maglie. Ho lavorato la tg 6/9 quale devo considerare?esempio “Bordo attorno allo scalfo 52-84”. Grazie mille

DROPS Design 14.11.2018 kl. 11:41:

Buongiorno Francesca. Deve riprendere un numero di maglie compreso tra 52 e 84 maglie e che sia divisibile per 4. Buon lavoro!

Francesca 09.11.2018 - 14:33:

Mi scuso ma si, mi riferivo alla spiegazione da lei data...grazie. mi sono confusa perché leggendo tutta la spiegazione mi sono accorta che la grana di riso doppia non l'ho mai trovata su due maglie.... comunque ok seguo. grazie

Francesca 09.11.2018 - 10:42:

Mi scuso ma ho ancora difficolta' a comprendere: il diagramma M1 indica due ferri a rovescio e due al dritto e poi si ripetono? Perché dalla spiegazione di M1 sembra essere invece la semplice grana di riso ! Come devo interpretare? Grazie mille.

DROPS Design 09.11.2018 kl. 11:08:

Buongiorno Francesca, a quale spiegazione di riferisce? Deve seguire la legenda, se lavora in tondo sono due giri rovescio e due giri diritto che si ripetono. Buon lavoro!

Francesca 26.10.2018 - 12:44:

Un consiglio ' quando indica 36-36-32 (28-32) diminuzioni in modo uniforme'...: quale diminuzione si consiglia? 2 insieme al dritto o un'accavallata? grazie!

DROPS Design 26.10.2018 kl. 13:39:

Buongiorno Francesca. Può diminuire lavorando 2 maglie insieme a diritto. Buon lavoro!

Francesca 24.10.2018 - 19:13:

Buongiorno, avrei bisogno di capire.... dopo il primo giro la frase 'Continuare come segue per 5-5-6 (6-7) cm.' si riferisce non a quello che chiede dopo ( 'diminuire 1 m. su entrambi i lati di ogni sezione a dir. ') bensi al giro appena terminato giusto? 10 dr e 4 rov.....sarebbero le pieghe del vestito....non capisco :) grazie per il supporto!

DROPS Design 24.10.2018 kl. 20:23:

Buonasera Francesca, abbiamo modificato il testo, deve lavorare come la parte precedente per la lunghezza indicata. Buon lavoro!

Betty Maguire 29.10.2016 - 18:08:

When you say M1 are you kfb or pulling bar loop for new stitch? I seem to have a problem with doing the 2nd row of M1 using the bar loop. Thanks

DROPS Design 31.10.2016 kl. 10:20:

Dear Mrs Maguire, M1 refers here to the diagram you will find at the bottom of the page, same with M2 - read more about diagrams here. Happy knitting!

Miri Yawitz 16.08.2016 - 19:30:

Hi. I don't understand the instructions. If I start with 160 stiches and I need to decrease 2 stitches every 2 cm for a total of 5 times. Then, I will have left 150 stitches (total decrese of 10 stitches) and not 140 stitches as indicated. I'm stuck right now. Thanks.

DROPS Design 16.08.2016 kl. 19:42:

Dear Mrs Yawitz, you've to decrease 1 st on each side of both markers, so 2 dec at each markers, and 4 sts dec on each dec round, for a total of 20 dec sts. Happy knitting!

Toni 14.09.2015 - 18:31:

Hallo, was bedeutet "Die Abnahmen bei jeder 2. re. 4 Mal wiederholen"? Heißt das, man strickt nach einer Runde mit Abnahmen eine Runde li über li und re über re und fährt dann mit Abnahmen fort oder strickt man alle Abnahme-Runden hintereinander weg?

DROPS Design 15.09.2015 kl. 20:40:

Es muss heißen: Bei jeder 2. Rd. Das bedeutet, dass Sie 1 Rd mit Abnahmen stricken, dann wieder eine Runde ohne, dann wieder eine mit, wieder eine ohne usw, bis Sie in 4 Rd abgenommen haben. Es gibt also jeweils eine Zwischenrunde. Der "Vertipper" wird gleich korrigiert.

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