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  5. 120
  6. 30

Diamonds in the Sun by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS dress in ”Safran” with lace pattern and buttons at the back. Size: XS to XXL

Keywords: dress, lace, sleeveless, v-neck, waist shaping

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DROPS 120-30
DROPS design: Pattern no E-148

Size: XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL
Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour no 50, light ice blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm – or size needed to get 23 tr x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS no 521: 10 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 1.30 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.00£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET TIP:
Turn each row with 3 ch – NOTE: These 3 ch do not replace the first tr but are additional sts.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.3 – NOTE: Make sure length of 1 ch is the same as width of 1 tr, otherwise the pattern won’t be even.
DECREASING TIP:
Dec 1 tr by crochet 2 tr tog as follows: Crochet 1 tr in first st but wait with the last pull-through, crochet 1 tr in next st and when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.
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DRESS:
Crochet back and forth from mid back and sewn tog at the back.
Crochet 304-334-364-394-424-454 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) with Safran and crochet hook size 3 mm. Crochet first row as follows: 1 tr in 4th ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 tr in last ch = 242-266-290-314-338-362 tr (+ 3 ch). See CROCHET TIP! Continue as follows: 1 tr, M.1 10-11-12-13-14-15 times across the row and 1 tr in last tr.
REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
After M.1 continue with 1 tr in each tr – AT THE SAME TIME insert 8 markers in piece as follows: First marker after 16-18-19-20-22-23 tr, then 30-33-36-39-42-45 tr between each marker, = 16-17-19-21-22-24 tr after the last marker. AT THE SAME TIME on row 2 after M.1 dec 1 tr to the right of all markers – SEE DECREASING TIP! Repeat the dec on every 4th row a total of 12 times – NOTE: Dec to the right and to the left alternately of markers = 146-170-194-218-242-266 tr.
When piece measures 50 cm (dec are now complete, leave markers in piece) crochet M.1 again (= 6-7-8-9-10-11 repeats across the row) with 1 tr each side. After M.1 continue with 1 tr in each tr – AT THE SAME TIME on row 1 after M.1 inc 1 tr to the right of all markers – inc by working 2 tr in 1 tr. Repeat the inc on every 2-2-2-3-3-3 row a total of 4 times – NOTE: Inc to the right and to the left alternately of markers = 178-202-226-250-274-298 tr.
When piece measures approx 70-71-72-73-74-75 cm crochet next row as follows (adjust so that next row is from WS in size XS, M and XL and from RS in size S, L and XXL):

SIZE XS:
First row, from WS: 1 tr in each of the first 45 tr, M.2B - beg on left side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 44 sts, last st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr), M.2A – beg on left side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 44 sts, first st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr) and then 1 tr in each of the last 45 tr. Crochet another 3 rows in the same way.
RIGHT SIDE:
Crochet next row as follows (from WS): M.3B on the first 45 sts (beg on row marked by arrow), then continue in M.2B, at the same time dec for neck as shown in diagram.
After M.3B continue in M.2B until there are 10 sts left at the top (= strap). Crochet back and forth on these sts as shown in diagram until strap measures approx 29 cm – try on the dress to see if strap is long enough. Cut the thread.
LEFT SIDE:
Crochet like the right side but mirrored, i.e. crochet from mid front (= WS) as follows: M.2A on the first 44 sts and then M.3A on the last 45 sts. After M.3A crochet sl sts on these sts to M.2A, complete diagram and crochet strap like on right side.

SIZE S:
First row, from RS: 1 tr in each of the first 51 tr, M.2A – beg on right side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 50 sts, last st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr), M.2B – beg on right side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 50 sts, first st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr) and then 1 tr in each of the last 51 tr. Crochet another 3 rows in the same way.
LEFT SIDE:
Crochet next row as follows (from RS): M.3A on the first 51 tr, then continue in M.2A at the same time dec for neck as shown in diagram. After 3 rows M.3A is completed. Now continue in M.2A until there are 10 sts left at the top (= strap). Crochet back and forth on these sts as shown in diagram until strap measures approx 31 cm – try on the dress to see if strap is long enough. Cut the thread.
RIGHT SIDE:
Crochet like the left side but mirrored, i.e. crochet from mid front (= RS) as follows: M.2B on the first 50 sts and then M.3B on the last 51 sts. After M.3B crochet sl sts on these sts to M.2B, complete diagram and crochet strap like on right side.

SIZE M:
First row, from WS: 1 tr in each of the first 57 tr, M.2B – beg on left side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 56 sts, last st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr), M.2A – beg on left side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 56 sts, first st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr) and then 1 tr in each of the last 57 tr. Crochet another 3 rows in the same way.
RIGHT SIDE:
Crochet next row as follows (from WS): M.3B on the first 57 tr, then continue in M.2B at the same time dec for neck as shown in diagram. After M.3B continue in M.2A until there are 10 sts left at the top (= strap). Crochet back and forth on these sts as shown in diagram until strap measures approx 33 cm – try on the dress to see if strap is long enough. Cut the thread.
LEFT SIDE:
Crochet like the right side but mirrored, i.e. crochet from mid front (= WS) as follows: M.2A on the first 56 sts and then M.3A on the last 57 sts. After M.3A crochet sl sts on these sts to M.2A, complete diagram and crochet strap like on right side.

SIZE L:
First row, from RS: 1 tr in each of the first 63 tr, M.2A – beg on right side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 62 sts, last st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr), M.2B – beg on right side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 62 sts, first st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr) and then 1 tr in each of the last 63 tr. Crochet another 3 rows in the same way.
LEFT SIDE:
Crochet next row as follows (from RS): M.3A on the first 63 tr, then continue in M.2A at the same time dec for neck as shown in diagram. After M.3A continue in M.2A until there are 10 sts left at the top (= strap). Crochet back and forth on these sts as shown in diagram until strap measures approx 33 cm – try on the dress to see if strap is long enough. Cut the thread.
RIGHT SIDE:
Crochet like the left side but mirrored, i.e. crochet from mid front (= RS) as follows: M.2B on the first 62 sts and then M.3B on the last 63 sts. After M.3B crochet sl sts on these sts to M.2B, complete diagram and crochet strap like on right side.

SIZE XL:
First row, from WS: 1 tr in each of the first 69 tr, M.2B – beg on left side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 68 sts, last st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr), M.2A – beg on left side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 68 sts, first st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr) and then 1 tr in each of the last 69 tr. Crochet another 3 rows in the same way.
RIGHT SIDE:
Crochet next row as follows (from WS): M.3B on the first 69 tr, then continue in M.2B at the same time dec for neck as shown in diagram. After M.3B continue in M.2A until there are 10 sts left at the top (= strap). Crochet back and forth on these sts as shown in diagram until strap measures approx 35 cm – try on the dress to see if strap is long enough. Cut the thread.
LEFT SIDE:
Crochet like the right side but mirrored, i.e. crochet from mid front (= WS) as follows: M.2A on the first 68 sts and then M.3A on the last 69 sts. After M.3A crochet sl sts on these sts to M.2A, complete diagram and crochet strap like on right side.

SIZE XXL:
First row, from RS: 1 tr in each of the first 75 tr, M.2A – beg on right side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 74 sts, last st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr), M.2B – beg on right side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 74 sts, first st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr) and then 1 tr in each of the last 75 tr. Crochet another 3 rows in the same way.
LEFT SIDE:
Crochet next row as follows (from RS): M.3A on the first 75 tr, then continue in M.2A at the same time dec for neck as shown in diagram. After 3 rows M.3A is complete and now continue in M.2A until there are 10 sts left at the top (= strap). Crochet back and forth on these sts as shown in diagram until strap measures approx 35 cm – try on the dress to see if strap is long enough. Cut the thread.
RIGHT SIDE:
Crochet like the left side but mirrored, i.e. crochet from mid front (= RS) as follows: M.2B on the first 74 sts and then M.3B on the last 75 sts. After M.3B crochet sl sts on these sts to M.2B, complete diagram and crochet strap like on right side.

ALL SIZES - ASSEMBLY:
Sew dress tog mid back, edge to edge in outer loops of sts – beg at bottom and leave an opening of approx 33 cm at the top.
Sew shoulder straps, edge to edge, to back piece, approx 9-10-11-12-13-14 cm from mid back.
BUTTON EDGE: Crochet 3 rows with dc along left side of the opening mid back.
BUTTONHOLE LOOPS: Crochet as follows along right side of opening mid back – beg at the top: 1 dc in first st, 3 ch, skip 1 cm, 1 dc in next st, * crochet dc for 2.5 cm, 3 ch, skip 1 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* a total of 9 times = 10 buttonhole loops.
PICOT BORDERS: Crochet round neckline as follows – beg mid back: 1 dc in first st, * 4 ch, 1 tr in the first ch (= 1 picot), skip approx 1 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-*.
Crochet in the same way round the armholes and along bottom edge.

Diagram

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 tr
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = 1 sl st
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 120-30) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (53)

country flag Kristina wrote:

Virkar man klänningen nerifrån o upp? Eller virkas den i delar?

15.05.2023 - 21:08

country flag Sandra wrote:

Bonjour, Pouuriez-vous me dire combien il y a t'il de rangs entre le début (où il y a les marqueurs) et la fin des diminutions? A 50cm de hauteur totale c'est depuis le début de l'ouvrage ou là où sont les marqueurs? Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse. Sandra

13.03.2022 - 09:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sandra, vous devez crocheter ainsi: *1 tour de diminutions, 3 tours sans*, vous répétez de *-* 11 fois au total (= 44 tours) et vous diminuez encore 1 fois au tour suivant = 45 tours au total. Bon crochet!

14.03.2022 kl. 11:06

country flag Samantha Williams wrote:

Hi, I'm on the 2nd row of the M1 chart. It’s so confusing. It’s says ch1 then tr in second tr but if I did that I wouldn’t be able the finish the 3rd row at the end. So how do you work it. You say to ch3 at beg of rows but there is no stitch at the beg of row just a ch1. Please help

03.06.2021 - 20:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Mrs Williams, at the beg of the row you work 3 chains to start but these 3 chains do not count as first treble, so that you chain 3 then work 1 treble in first treble, and now work M.1 beg with 1 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr, and repeat M.1 a total of 10-11-12-13-14-15 times (= over the next 240-264-288-312-336-360 tr), and end the row with 1 tr in the last tr. Hope this helps, happy crocheting!

10.06.2021 kl. 08:37

country flag Mrs Samantha Williams wrote:

Hi, I'm in the UK. What yarn would you recommend to use please. Kind Regards Samantha x

07.05.2021 - 15:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Samantha, the pattern is designed for the DROPS Safran yarn, and that is we suggest. You can order it from HERE, among other places. Happy Knitting!

07.05.2021 kl. 22:40

country flag Nat wrote:

Hello, I have a question regarding this crochet tip: "Turn each row with 3 ch – NOTE: These 3 ch do not replace the first dc but are additional sts.". Does this mean that we are increasing each time? I am always replacing 3 chains with a different method to have an even border, can I do that here?

06.05.2021 - 14:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nat, no, that 3 stitch is just to turn with, and not replacing the first stitch, no increases there either (just heightening the row). Well, why don't you try your method on a practice swatch and decide if it is working for you? Happy Crafting!

06.05.2021 kl. 14:22

country flag Daniela wrote:

Hallo Drops Team! Ich habe eine Frage zu dieser Anleitung. Am Anfang nach dem Mustersatz muss man ja mit den Annahmen beginnen: Die Abnahmen bei jeder 4. Reihe total 12 Mal wiederholen Macht man diese Abnahmen IN der 4 Runde, oder erst wenn man die 4 Runde beendet hat (also dann in der 5)? Liebe Grüße!

05.04.2021 - 18:34

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Daniela, die Abnahmmen wiederholen Sie in jeder 4; Reihe (= 3 Reihen ohne Abnahmmen zwischen den Reihen mit Abnahmmen). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

06.04.2021 kl. 14:34

country flag Barbara Christel Bühn wrote:

Hallo , möchte die Borte für ein Strickkleid verwenden , wie muss ich da vorgehen? Danke

13.02.2021 - 17:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Bühn, leider können wir jeder Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Frage anpassen und einzelne Modelle auf individuellen Wunsch hin umrechnen. Wenn sie Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an dem Laden wo Sie die Wolle gekauft haben, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.02.2021 kl. 08:13

country flag Barbara Christel Bühn wrote:

Hallo , ich möchte den Mustersatz M 1 als Einsatz für ein Strick Kleid verwenden . Wie muss ich da anfangen?

13.02.2021 - 17:17

country flag Elena Berretti wrote:

Buongiorno ho appena iniziato la lavorazione di questo modello con uncinetto 3 (avevo fatto anche il campione) mi sono resa conto lavorando che non mi tornano le misure per la taglia M come riportato sul modello ho deciso di lavorare con un uncinetto 2 e mezzo volevo chiedere se è possibile lavorare il safran con questa misura Grazie

14.05.2020 - 11:48

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Elena, certo che può usare il 2,5 mm per la lavorazione con Safran: se il suo campione iniziale con l'uncinetto n° 3 mm corrispondeva a quello indicato, probabilmente è cambiata la sua tensione durante il lavoro. Buon lavoro!

14.05.2020 kl. 12:42

country flag Mimi wrote:

Thank you for this lovely pattern. I am working with the American English version. I am new to working with a chart pattern, so I just want to be sure I’m understanding it correctly. For section M.1, I will start each row with ch3 + 1 dc. Then work the first row from the M.1 chart, and finish the row with one dc. For the next row, begin with ch3 + one dc, then the next row of the M.1 chart across the row, and finish with one dc. Then repeat this for each row of the M.1 chart? Thank you 😊.

27.04.2020 - 02:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mimi, you will start M.1 with 3 ch to replace 1st dc, then repeat M.1 in width and end the round with 1 dc in last st, 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Read each round from bottom up and from the right towards the left - read more about diagrams here. Happy crocheting!

27.04.2020 kl. 09:41

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120-30 Dress with buttons at the back

Ugolid, Czech Republic
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