DROPS / 120 / 30

Diamonds in the Sun by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS dress in ”Safran” with lace pattern and buttons at the back. Size: XS to XXL

Tags: dresses, lace,
DROPS design: Pattern no E-148

Size: XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL
Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour no 50, light ice blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm – or size needed to get 23 tr x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS no 521: 10 pcs.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET TIP:
Turn each row with 3 ch – NOTE: These 3 ch do not replace the first tr but are additional sts.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.3 – NOTE: Make sure length of 1 ch is the same as width of 1 tr, otherwise the pattern won’t be even.
DECREASING TIP:
Dec 1 tr by crochet 2 tr tog as follows: Crochet 1 tr in first st but wait with the last pull-through, crochet 1 tr in next st and when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.
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DRESS:
Crochet back and forth from mid back and sewn tog at the back.
Crochet 304-334-364-394-424-454 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) with Safran and crochet hook size 3 mm. Crochet first row as follows: 1 tr in 4th ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 tr in last ch = 242-266-290-314-338-362 tr (+ 3 ch). See CROCHET TIP! Continue as follows: 1 tr, M.1 10-11-12-13-14-15 times across the row and 1 tr in last tr.
REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
After M.1 continue with 1 tr in each tr – AT THE SAME TIME insert 8 markers in piece as follows: First marker after 16-18-19-20-22-23 tr, then 30-33-36-39-42-45 tr between each marker, = 16-17-19-21-22-24 tr after the last marker. AT THE SAME TIME on row 2 after M.1 dec 1 tr to the right of all markers – SEE DECREASING TIP! Repeat the dec on every 4th row a total of 12 times – NOTE: Dec to the right and to the left alternately of markers = 146-170-194-218-242-266 tr.
When piece measures 50 cm (dec are now complete, leave markers in piece) crochet M.1 again (= 6-7-8-9-10-11 repeats across the row) with 1 tr each side. After M.1 continue with 1 tr in each tr – AT THE SAME TIME on row 1 after M.1 inc 1 tr to the right of all markers – inc by working 2 tr in 1 tr. Repeat the inc on every 2-2-2-3-3-3 row a total of 4 times – NOTE: Inc to the right and to the left alternately of markers = 178-202-226-250-274-298 tr.
When piece measures approx 70-71-72-73-74-75 cm crochet next row as follows (adjust so that next row is from WS in size XS, M and XL and from RS in size S, L and XXL):

SIZE XS:
First row, from WS: 1 tr in each of the first 45 tr, M.2B - beg on left side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 44 sts, last st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr), M.2A – beg on left side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 44 sts, first st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr) and then 1 tr in each of the last 45 tr. Crochet another 3 rows in the same way.
RIGHT SIDE:
Crochet next row as follows (from WS): M.3B on the first 45 sts (beg on row marked by arrow), then continue in M.2B, at the same time dec for neck as shown in diagram.
After M.3B continue in M.2B until there are 10 sts left at the top (= strap). Crochet back and forth on these sts as shown in diagram until strap measures approx 29 cm – try on the dress to see if strap is long enough. Cut the thread.
LEFT SIDE:
Crochet like the right side but mirrored, i.e. crochet from mid front (= WS) as follows: M.2A on the first 44 sts and then M.3A on the last 45 sts. After M.3A crochet sl sts on these sts to M.2A, complete diagram and crochet strap like on right side.

SIZE S:
First row, from RS: 1 tr in each of the first 51 tr, M.2A – beg on right side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 50 sts, last st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr), M.2B – beg on right side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 50 sts, first st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr) and then 1 tr in each of the last 51 tr. Crochet another 3 rows in the same way.
LEFT SIDE:
Crochet next row as follows (from RS): M.3A on the first 51 tr, then continue in M.2A at the same time dec for neck as shown in diagram. After 3 rows M.3A is completed. Now continue in M.2A until there are 10 sts left at the top (= strap). Crochet back and forth on these sts as shown in diagram until strap measures approx 31 cm – try on the dress to see if strap is long enough. Cut the thread.
RIGHT SIDE:
Crochet like the left side but mirrored, i.e. crochet from mid front (= RS) as follows: M.2B on the first 50 sts and then M.3B on the last 51 sts. After M.3B crochet sl sts on these sts to M.2B, complete diagram and crochet strap like on right side.

SIZE M:
First row, from WS: 1 tr in each of the first 57 tr, M.2B – beg on left side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 56 sts, last st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr), M.2A – beg on left side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 56 sts, first st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr) and then 1 tr in each of the last 57 tr. Crochet another 3 rows in the same way.
RIGHT SIDE:
Crochet next row as follows (from WS): M.3B on the first 57 tr, then continue in M.2B at the same time dec for neck as shown in diagram. After M.3B continue in M.2A until there are 10 sts left at the top (= strap). Crochet back and forth on these sts as shown in diagram until strap measures approx 33 cm – try on the dress to see if strap is long enough. Cut the thread.
LEFT SIDE:
Crochet like the right side but mirrored, i.e. crochet from mid front (= WS) as follows: M.2A on the first 56 sts and then M.3A on the last 57 sts. After M.3A crochet sl sts on these sts to M.2A, complete diagram and crochet strap like on right side.

SIZE L:
First row, from RS: 1 tr in each of the first 63 tr, M.2A – beg on right side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 62 sts, last st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr), M.2B – beg on right side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 62 sts, first st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr) and then 1 tr in each of the last 63 tr. Crochet another 3 rows in the same way.
LEFT SIDE:
Crochet next row as follows (from RS): M.3A on the first 63 tr, then continue in M.2A at the same time dec for neck as shown in diagram. After M.3A continue in M.2A until there are 10 sts left at the top (= strap). Crochet back and forth on these sts as shown in diagram until strap measures approx 33 cm – try on the dress to see if strap is long enough. Cut the thread.
RIGHT SIDE:
Crochet like the left side but mirrored, i.e. crochet from mid front (= RS) as follows: M.2B on the first 62 sts and then M.3B on the last 63 sts. After M.3B crochet sl sts on these sts to M.2B, complete diagram and crochet strap like on right side.

SIZE XL:
First row, from WS: 1 tr in each of the first 69 tr, M.2B – beg on left side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 68 sts, last st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr), M.2A – beg on left side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 68 sts, first st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr) and then 1 tr in each of the last 69 tr. Crochet another 3 rows in the same way.
RIGHT SIDE:
Crochet next row as follows (from WS): M.3B on the first 69 tr, then continue in M.2B at the same time dec for neck as shown in diagram. After M.3B continue in M.2A until there are 10 sts left at the top (= strap). Crochet back and forth on these sts as shown in diagram until strap measures approx 35 cm – try on the dress to see if strap is long enough. Cut the thread.
LEFT SIDE:
Crochet like the right side but mirrored, i.e. crochet from mid front (= WS) as follows: M.2A on the first 68 sts and then M.3A on the last 69 sts. After M.3A crochet sl sts on these sts to M.2A, complete diagram and crochet strap like on right side.

SIZE XXL:
First row, from RS: 1 tr in each of the first 75 tr, M.2A – beg on right side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 74 sts, last st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr), M.2B – beg on right side of diagram, see arrow for size (= 74 sts, first st = 1 ch, skip 1 tr) and then 1 tr in each of the last 75 tr. Crochet another 3 rows in the same way.
LEFT SIDE:
Crochet next row as follows (from RS): M.3A on the first 75 tr, then continue in M.2A at the same time dec for neck as shown in diagram. After 3 rows M.3A is complete and now continue in M.2A until there are 10 sts left at the top (= strap). Crochet back and forth on these sts as shown in diagram until strap measures approx 35 cm – try on the dress to see if strap is long enough. Cut the thread.
RIGHT SIDE:
Crochet like the left side but mirrored, i.e. crochet from mid front (= RS) as follows: M.2B on the first 74 sts and then M.3B on the last 75 sts. After M.3B crochet sl sts on these sts to M.2B, complete diagram and crochet strap like on right side.

ALL SIZES - ASSEMBLY:
Sew dress tog mid back, edge to edge in outer loops of sts – beg at bottom and leave an opening of approx 33 cm at the top.
Sew shoulder straps, edge to edge, to back piece, approx 9-10-11-12-13-14 cm from mid back.
BUTTON EDGE: Crochet 3 rows with dc along left side of the opening mid back.
BUTTONHOLE LOOPS: Crochet as follows along right side of opening mid back – beg at the top: 1 dc in first st, 3 ch, skip 1 cm, 1 dc in next st, * crochet dc for 2.5 cm, 3 ch, skip 1 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* a total of 9 times = 10 buttonhole loops.
PICOT BORDERS: Crochet round neckline as follows – beg mid back: 1 dc in first st, * 4 ch, 1 tr in the first ch (= 1 picot), skip approx 1 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-*.
Crochet in the same way round the armholes and along bottom edge.

Diagram

= 1 ch
= 1 tr
= 1 dc
= 1 sl st


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 120-30) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (42)

Darlene Toliver-Rollins 18.09.2019 - 19:53:

I think the dress is beautiful and I would love it to be the second one of your patterns I want to make, but This is the most confusing pattern I have ever attempted. Even the diagram becomes a hot mess with the way the instructions are written. I will attempt to make it at some point when I have time to write you for every row.

Debbie 08.07.2019 - 18:27:

I am now at the 3A part of the pattern and am not sure how to go about it. The diagram for m 3A shows 6 stitches and 4 rows with an arrow next to one of the rows. The directions say to m3a on the first 51 but I’m not sure what it is that I’m supposed to crochet. Thank you.

DROPS Design 09.07.2019 kl. 08:30:

Dear Debbie, M.3A is worked over 6 stitches (= 1dc in first dc, 2 ch, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 ch, skip 2 dc), you repeat M.3A a total of 8 times, then work half a repeat (= 1 dc in next dc, 2 ch, skip 2 dc) and work now M.2A (see diagram for your size). After 3 rows, M.3A is finished, continue wokring only M.2A until 10 sts remain. Happy crocheting!

Agnieszka 29.06.2019 - 19:47:

Dzień Dobry, Bardzo proszę o przetłumaczenie wzoru na tę piękną sukienkę na j. polski :)

DROPS Design 30.06.2019 kl. 16:09:

Witaj Agnieszko! Do końca tygodnia wzór w języku polskim będzie dostępny. Pozdrawiamy!

Jenny 05.06.2018 - 21:47:

Hallo, ich bin beim Bustier angekommen. Warum soll ich die erste Reihe vom Muster ‚3 mal so häkeln‘? Stimmt das wirklich? Die Stelle sieht auf dem Bild ganz anders aus.

DROPS Design 06.06.2018 kl. 09:54:

Liebe Jenny, es werden die 4 ersten Reihe in M.2B/M.3B gehäkelt, siehe im Diagram welche Maschen/Reihen (je nach der Größe wird Diagram früher oder später anfangen/enden). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Bauer Monika 27.05.2017 - 17:15:

Hallo! stimmt die luftmaschenanzahl zu beginn wirklich? wenn ich mit einem garn (23 Stb auf 10 cm) die 454 luftmaschen mache, komme ich doppelt rein

DROPS Design 29.05.2017 kl. 09:16:

Liebe Frau Bauer, zu vermeiden daß die Lmkette am Anfang zu eng wird, häkelt man mehr Lm (= 454) als man dann Stb am Ende der 1. Reihe hat (= 362 Stb). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Annica 09.03.2017 - 13:11:

Jag virkar med drops

Lynn Neering 04.06.2016 - 00:47:

Can you give me an idea of what the sizes are? Example; small is a 6/8, medium a 10/12, etc.?? Something like that..... Mahalo

DROPS Design 06.06.2016 kl. 08:50:

Dear Mrs Neering, you will find at the bottom of the pattern a measurement chart with all measurements for each size - in cm, taken flat from side to side. Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. Read more and convert into inch here. Happy knitting!

Joyce Pearson 14.05.2016 - 03:10:

Diamonds Jubilee

Nicole Marshall 16.03.2016 - 20:34:

When beginning the decrease on row 2 after M.1 it says to dec 1 doc to the right of all markers. The next step states "Repeat the dec on every 4th row a total of 12 times, NOTE: Dec to right and left alter. Of markers". Does this mean row 2 dec to right of marker, row 6 dec to left of markers, row 10 dec to right, row 14 dec to left, etc?

DROPS Design 16.03.2016 kl. 23:58:

Dear Mrs Marshall, on 1st row with dec, you will dec on the right side of markers, then on next dec row, you will dec on the left of markers and repeat these dec, alternately dec on the right side and on the left side of the markers. Happy crocheting!

Nicole Marshall 27.02.2016 - 02:20:

Does tr mean US double crochet or a true treble crochet stitch?

DROPS Design 27.02.2016 kl. 16:18:

Dear Mrs Marshall, be sure you are reading pattern in US-English with US-crochet terminology, and click here to get both US/UK-crochet terminology. Happy crocheting!

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