DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Sweet Erica

DROPS Jacket in 2 threads ”Alpaca” with cable and lace pattern and crochet triangle on back piece. Size S to XXXL

DROPS 117-1
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-443.

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Finished measures:
Bust: 82-90-98-108-120-132 cm /
32 1/4-35½-38½-42½-47 1/4-52 inches
Length: 56-58-60-62-65-68 cm/
22-22 3/4-23 5/8-24 3/8-25½-26 3/4 inches

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
450-500-550-650-700-750 g color no 3800, heather.


DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 5 mm / US 8 – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 2 threads Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5 mm/ US 7.
DROPS Mother-of pearl buttons no 522: 6 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
TRIPPLE TREBLE CROCHET (ttr):
Make 4 YO, insert hook in st below, pull thread through st (= 6 loops on hook) , * YO round hook, pull thread through 2 loops *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times = 1 st left on hook.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.7 – diagrams are seen from RS and show 1 pattern repeat.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

DECREASING TIP (neckline):
Make all dec from RS.
Dec as follows before all garter sts: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after all garter sts: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band by K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 6, 11, 17, 22, 27 and 32 cm /
2 3/8,4 3/8,6 3/4,8 3/4, 10 5/8 and 12½ inch.
SIZE M: 6, 12, 17, 22, 28 and 33 cm /
2 3/8,4 3/4,6 3/4,8 3/4,11 and 13 inch.
SIZE L: 6, 12, 18, 23, 29 and 34 cm /
2 3/8,4 3/4,7,9,11 3/8 and 13 3/8 inch.
SIZE XL: 6, 12, 18, 24, 30 and 35 cm /
2 3/8,4 3/4,7,9½,11 3/4 and 13 3/4 inch.
SIZE XXL: 6, 13, 19, 25, 31 and 37 cm /
2 3/8,5 1/8,7½,9 3/4,12 1/4 and 14½ inch.
SIZE XXXL: 6, 13, 19, 26, 32 and 39 cm /
2 3/8,5 1/8,7½,10 1/4,12½ and 15 1/4 inch.
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BACK PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle with an opening mid back for the crochet triangle. Crochet the triangle first and then work back piece in 2 pieces until after the opening for triangle.

CROCHET TRIANGLE:
Crochet 6 ch with 2 threads Alpaca on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 3 ch (= 1 dc), 11 dc in ring, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (= 12 dc).
ROUND 2: 3 ch (= 1 dc), * 5 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times and finish with 5 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (= 6 ch-loops on round).
ROUND 3: Crochet as follows in each ch-loop: 1 sc, 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 ch, 1 tr, 1 ch, 2 dtr, 1 ch, 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 ch and 1 sc. Finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round (= 6 leaves).
ROUND 4: 6 ch (= 1 tripple-tr = corner), 8 ch, 1 sc at the top of first leaf (between the 2 dtr), 9 ch, 1 sc at the top of next leaf, 8 ch, 1 TRIPPLE-TR – see above - between the 2 sc between the next 2 leaves, * 7 ch, 1 sc at the top of next leaf (between the 2 dtr), 8 ch, 1 sc at the top of next leaf, 7 ch, 1 tripple-tr between the 2 sc between the next 2 leaves *, repeat from *-* 1 more time along the last side, but finish with 1 sl st in 6th ch from beg of round (instead of 1 tripple-tr between 2 leaves) = 9 ch-loops round the flower with 1 tripple-tr in each corner - the one side (= towards bottom edge) is a little longer than the 2 other sides.
ROUND 5: Crochet as follows in tripple-tr in corner: 4 ch (= 1 tr), 2 ch, 1 dtr, 2 ch and 1 tr. In each of the 3 ch-loops along the first side crochet as follows: 1 ch, 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr, (= 4 tr in each loop), * in tripple-tr in corner crochet as follows: 1 ch, 1 tr, 2 ch, 1 dtr, 2 ch and 1 tr, and then crochet as follows in each of the 3 ch-loops along the next side: 1 ch, 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr (= a total of 3 tr in each loop) *, repeat from *-* 1 more time along the last side, and finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round.
ROUND 6: 4 ch, 1 tr in first ch-loop, in dtr in each corner crochet as follows: 1 tr, 2 ch, 1 dtr, 2 ch and 1 tr, then crochet 1 tr in each tr and 1 tr in each ch-loop from previous round. Finish round with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round.
Along one side there are now 31 tr (= towards bottom edge) and along the 2 other sides there are 25 tr. Fasten off.
Triangle measures approx 23 cm / 9'' along the longest side and 20 cm / 8'' along the 2 other sides.

BACK PIECE – LEFT SIDE: Cast on 17-20-24-28-33-38 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side) with 2 threads Alpaca on needle size 5 mm / US 8. Work 2 rows GARTER ST – see above. Work next row as follows from RS: 2-2-2-3-3-3 garter sts, M.1 (= 8 sts), 6-9-13-16-21-26 stockinette sts and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue like this – work inc st in M.1 in stockinette st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'' dec 1 st at the side (from RS) by K2 tog inside 1 edge st, and repeat the dec on every 3 cm / 1 1/8'' a total of 5 times. When you have inc a total of 21 sts in M.1 put piece aside - finish after 1 row from RS. Piece now measures approx 20 cm / 8'' and there are 33-36-40-44-49-54 sts on needle.

BACK PIECE – RIGHT SIDE: Cast on 17-20-24-28-33-38 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side) with 2 threads Alpaca on needle size 5 mm / US 8. Work 2 rows garter st. Work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, 6-9-13-16-21-26 stockinette sts, M.2 (= 8 sts) and 2-2-2-3-3-3 garter sts. Continue like this – work inc sts in M.2 in stockinette st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'' dec at the side as described for left side – but K tog into back of loop the 2nd and 3rd st on row. When there are as many sts and as many rows as on left side put piece aside.

BACK PIECE: Slip the 2 back pieces on the same needle with pattern towards pattern = 66-72-80-88-98-108 sts. Continue as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 20-23-27-30-35-40 stockinette sts, M.3 (make sure to have the same number of rows between each cable row throughout), 4-4-4-6-6-6 garter sts, M.4, 20-23-27-30-35-40 stockinette sts and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue like this. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 22 cm / 8 3/4'' from cast on row inc 1 st each side by K 2 sts in the last but one st, and repeat the inc on every 2-2.5-2.5-2.5-3-3 cm / 3/4"-7/8"-7/8"-7/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" a total of 6 times = 78-84-92-100-110-120 sts. When piece measures 37-38-39-40-42-44 cm / 14½"-15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16½"-17 1/4" bind off for armhole each side at the beg of every row: 3 sts 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-2-3-4-5 times and 1 st 3-4-4-5-4-5 times = 62-66-70-72-74-78 sts. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-63-66 cm / 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/4"-26" K2 tog on the 6 sts on each cable = 56-60-64-66-68-72 sts. On next row bind off the middle 16-16-18-18-20-20 sts for neck = 20-22-23-24-24-26 sts left on each shoulder. Complete each shoulder separately and bind off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-65-68 cm / 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25½"-26 3/4".
Sew the crochet triangle to the opening at bottom of back piece – make sure to have the longer side towards bottom edge. Sew edge to edge and make sure the seam is even.

LEFT FRONT PIECE: Cast on 41-45-49-53-57-63 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side and 6 front band sts towards mid front) with 2 threads Alpaca on needle size 5 mm / US 8. Work 2 rows garter st.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
PATTERN: Continue as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, 22-26-30-34-38-44 stockinette sts, 2 garter sts, M.4 (= 10 sts) and 6 front band sts in garter st. Continue like this until piece measures approx 12-10-8-6-5-3 cm / 4 3/4"-4"-3 1/8"-2 3/8"-2"-1 1/8" (adjust to after 1 row from WS after 1 cable-row). Continue as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, stockinette st until 20 sts remain, M.6 (= 12 sts), 2 stockinette sts, and 6 front band sts in garter st. Continue like this – M.6 will shift 1 st towards the side on every other row (i.e. there will gradually be less stockinette sts on right side of piece and more stockinette sts on left side of piece).
DECREASES AND INCREASES: At the same time when piece measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'' dec at the side as described for back piece and when piece measures 22 cm / 8 3/4'' inc at the side as described for back piece. When all dec and inc are complete there are 42-46-50-54-58-64 sts on needle.
COLLAR: When piece measures 32-33-34-35-37-39 cm / 12½"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14½"-15 1/4" work 2 rows garter st on the 6 front band sts only (to make neckline neater). On next row inc 1 st for collar towards mid front by making 1 YO inside the first front band st, on next row work YO into back of loop to avoid a hole. Repeat the inc on every other row a total of 12 times = 18 garter sts incl front band-sts towards mid front.
DEC FOR NECK: When piece measures 34-35-36-37-39-41 cm / 13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14½"-15 1/4"-16 1/8" dec 1 st for neck inside front band sts + inc sts for collar – SEE DECREASING TIP! Repeat the dec on every other row a total of 6-7-7-7-7-8 times and then on every 4th row a total of 5-5-6-6-6-6 times.
PATTERN: When M.6 has shifted all the way to the side (only 1 edge st left) continue as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 3 garter sts, M.1 (but without the YO – make sure to have the same number of rows between each cable-row), then stockinette st and garter st on remaining sts as before. When piece measures 36-37-38-39-41-43 cm / 14 1/4"-14½"-15"-15 1/4"-16 1/8"-17" K2 tog on the 6 sts on cable. Continue in stockinette st over stockinette st and garter st over garter st.
ARMHOLE: When piece measures 37-38-39-40-42-44 cm / 14½"-15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16½"-17 1/4" bind off for armhole at the beg of every row from the side as described for back piece.
When all dec for armhole and neck and inc for collar are complete there are 32-34-35-36-36-38 sts on needle – continue in stockinette st and garter st as before. When piece measures 56-58-60-62-65-68 cm / 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25½"-26 3/4" bind off 20-22-23-24-24-26 sts from shoulder towards neckline = 12 collar sts left on needle.
Continue on these as follows (beg from WS): * 2 rows garter st on all sts, 2 rows garter st on the 8 sts towards mid front only *, repeat from *-* until collar measures 5-5-5.5-5.5-6-6 cm / 2"-2"-2 1/4"-2 1/4"-2 3/8"-2 3/8" (measured where shortest) and bind off loosely.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Like left front piece, but after the first 2 rows garter st continue as follows: 6 front band sts in garter st, M.3, 2 garter sts, 22-26-30-34-38-44 stockinette sts and 1 edge st in garter st. Then work M.5 instead of M.6 and M.2 instead of M.1. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' make BUTTONHOLES on front band – see above!

SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 57-59-61-63-65-67 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) with 2 threads Alpaca on needle size 5 mm / US 8.
K 1 row from RS and continue as follows from WS: 1 edge st in garter st, 9-10-11-12-13-14 stockinette sts, M.7 (= 37 sts), 9-10-11-12-13-14 stockinette sts and 1 edge st in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' dec 1 st each side, repeat the dec on every 3 cm / 1 1/8'' a total of 5 times. When M.7 and dec at the sides are complete there are 41-43-45-47-49-51 sts on needle and piece measures approx 17 cm / 6 3/4''. Continue in stockinette st on all sts. When piece measures 19 cm / 7½'' inc 1 st each side, and repeat the inc on every 3.5-3-2.5-2-2-1.5 cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/8"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-½" a total of 9-10-11-12-13-14 times = 59-63-67-71-75-79 sts. When piece measures 49-48-47-46-45-44 cm / 19¼''-19''-18½''-18''-17¾''-17¼'' (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) bind off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 4-5-6-7-8-9 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 57 cm / 22½'', now bind off 3 sts 1 time each side. Bind off remaining sts, piece measures approx 58 cm / 22 3/4''.

ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams. Sew collar tog mid back, edge to edge, and sew to neckline. Set in sleeves and sew side and sleeve seams inside 1 edge st.
Crochet a border round the whole opening with crochet hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 and 2 threads Alpaca – beg mid back, continue down along collar, left front band, along bottom edge, up along right front band, collar and finish mid back. Crochet as follows: 1 sc in first st, * 4 ch, 1 dc in the first ch (= 1 picot), skip approx 1.5 cm / ½", 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-*.
Crochet a similar border round sleeve edges. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 11.08.2009
New chart M.7 is published
Updated online: 17.08.2009
Correct buttons should be #522

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts.
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle.
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K first st from cable needle tog with first st on needle, K second st from cable needle tog with second st on needle, K third st from cable needle tog with third st on needle.
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K first st from cable needle tog with first st on needle, K second st from cable needle tog with second st on needle, K third st from cable needle tog with third st on needle.
symbols = Bobble: Inc to 5 sts in the same st as follows: K1, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K1, work 4 rows stockinette st back and forth on these 5 sts, then dec as follows: lift second st on right needle over first st, lift third st over first st, lift fourth st over first st and lift fifth st over first st = 1 st left.
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
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Comments / Questions (244)

country flag Barbara Gunner wrote:

Hi this is both a comment and a question. I am doing the sleeve of Sweet Erika and followed the instructions without reading and understanding it first. for example, CO57 sts, do pattern, dec each side a total of 5 times = 41 sts NO it doesn't. 57-10 = 47. The rest of the pattern is out by 6 sts. The question is should the CO be 51 or is the rest out by 6 stitches? or should the dec be 8? Sorry to point this out.

30.11.2023 - 11:11

country flag Sacha wrote:

Bedankt voor de snelle reactie. Dan houd ik het bij de aanbevolen naalddikte.

22.08.2023 - 11:39

country flag Sacha wrote:

Bij het proeflapje klopt mijn steekverhpuding niet. De steekverhouding zou 17 steken en 22 naalden = 10x10 cm moeten zijn, maar ik heb 10 cm breed x 9 cm hoog. Het model wordt dan te kort. Bij een grotere naald komt de lengte goed, maar wordt het te wijd. Hoe kan ik dit oplossen?

19.08.2023 - 19:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Sacha,

De stekenverhouding in de breedte is het belangrijkst. Voor de hoogte kun je de aangegeven centimeters aanhouden.

20.08.2023 - 15:27

country flag Isabelle Fachat wrote:

Bonjour je fais le croquis n°6 du model 117 mais le rendu n'est pas pareil que sur la photo pouvez-vous m'aider merci d'avance

12.07.2022 - 11:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Fachat, lorsque vous tricotez M.6 pour le devant gauche, vous devez décaler la torsade vers la droite, autrement dit, commencez le diagramme 1 maille plus tôt tous les 2 rangs et faites 1 diminution et terminez le diagramme par 1 jeté = le nombre de mailles avant M.6 diminue et celui après M.6 augmente tous les 2 rangs. Le nombre de mailles total reste le même, mais la torsade va s'incliner vers la droite. Bon tricot!

12.07.2022 - 14:07

country flag Clara Majlis wrote:

Hola. Quiero saber si envían llamas a Santiago de Chile, cual es el costo del envío y cuanto se demora en llegar. Gracias

21.02.2022 - 02:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Clara, puedes consultar en el siguiente enlace aquellas tiendas DROPS con envío a Chile: https://www.garnstudio.com/findastore.php?id=19&w=1&cid=19

27.02.2022 - 18:09

country flag Nicole wrote:

Hallo. Ich komme mit dem Muster M7 nicht klar. In der Reihe 9 geht der Mustersatz nicht auf. Ich soll zwischen den beiden Zöpfen 11 M rechts stricken habe aber nur noch 9 M dazwischen. Bitte helfen sie mir!

29.10.2021 - 10:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Nicole, leider ist Ihr Problem nicht ganz deutlich. M7 stricken Sie ja am Ärmel. Die Reihe teilen Sie ja schon zu Beginn ein, d.h. die je 11 Maschen glatt rechts werden am Anfang und am Ende gestrickt und dazwischen M7. Wenn M7 bis zur Reihe 9 gepasst hat, müsste M7 auch in Reihe 9 passen. Zählen Sie noch einmal genau nach, ob Sie irgendwo zu viel abgenommen haben. Am besten ziehen Sie vor und nach M7 einen Markierungsfaden ein, dann wissen Sie immer, wo der Mustersatz beginnt und endet. Gutes Gelingen!

29.10.2021 - 11:11

country flag Bettina wrote:

Hej, jeg kan se flere spørge på dette fine mønster. Jeg kommer desværre ikke i mål med jeres tidligere svar. Nu spørger jeg om M6 og M5 skal være det samme som bunden af M7 ? Så kan jeg måske få det til at passe. Jeg afventer i spænding - tak.

27.06.2021 - 10:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Bettina, jeg kan ikke regne ud hvor du er i opskriften. Hvad jeg kan se så skal du kun strikke M.7 på ærmerne....

30.06.2021 - 13:28

country flag Fransca Rutten wrote:

Hartelijk danik kom niet uit de gehaakte drie toer 4 wilt u het mischien uit teken voor mij hartelijk dank fransca rutten

15.09.2020 - 16:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Fransca,

In onderstaande video kun je zien hoe je een picotrand haakt. In de video worden 3 lossen gehaakt, maar in dit patroon moet je steeds 4 lossen haken.

18.11.2020 - 20:19

country flag Janick wrote:

Bonjour, pour les emmanchures vous dites à 39 cm de hauteur totale mais si on regarde le schéma ,elles viennent après les augmentations donc la hauteur proposée n'est pas bonne. Pouvez vous m'aider ? je vous remercie

05.04.2019 - 11:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Janick, en taille L, on rabat pour les emmanchures à 39 cm de hauteur totale, les augmentations des côtés doivent être terminées - on a ensuite 21 cm de hauteur d'emmanchure soit 39+21 = 60 cm de hauteur totale. Bon tricot!

05.04.2019 - 12:16

country flag Ginette wrote:

I can’t figure out where the decreases are in the back pieces that I am supposed to do “at the same time” as the increases in M1 & M2 when piece measures 1 1/8 “ and so on. Are they at the beginning or at the end of the rows at every 1 1/8 inch?

06.12.2018 - 02:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ginette, on the left side of back piece you will decrease at the end of the row from RS (side = towards seam with front piece), and on the right side of back piece you will decrease at the beginning of the row from RS (= side = towards seam with front piece). You will decrease the 6-9-13-16-21-26 sts in stocking stitch (at the beg of this section on left back piece / at the end of this section on right back piece). Happy knitting!

06.12.2018 - 10:02