DROPS / 112 / 26

Cinnamon Toast by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket with V-neck and ¾ or long sleeves in ”Classic Alpaca”, "DROPS ♥ You #3", "Belle" or "Puna". Size S - XXXL.

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS CLASSIC ALPACA from Garnstudio
Colour no 0618, light beige:
3/4 sleeves:
400-450-500-550-650-700 g
Long sleeves:
450-500-550-600-700-750 g

Or use:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
No 05, brown
3/4-long sleeves:
300-350-400-450-500-550 g
Long sleeves:
350-400-450-450-550-600 g

Or use:
DROPS ♥ You #3 from Garnstudio
No 02, beige
3/4-long sleeves:
250-300-300-400-400-450 g
Long sleeves:
300-300-400-400-450-450 g

Or use:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio
No 02, beige
3/4-long sleeves:
250-300-350-400-450-450 g
Long sleeves:
300-350-400-400-450-500 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 4 mm (60 cm) – or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS BUFFALO HORN BUTTONS no 537: 5 pcs.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

DECREASING TIP (neckline):
Make all dec from RS as follows:
Dec before 8 front band sts: K2 tog.
Dec after 8 front band sts: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = cast off 4th and 5th st from mid front and cast on 2 new sts on return row. Make buttonholes when piece measures: SIZE S: 8, 14, 20, 26 and 32 cm.
SIZE M: 9, 15, 21, 27 and 33 cm.
SIZE L: 10, 16, 22, 28 and 34 cm.
SIZE XL: 7, 14, 21, 28 and 35 cm.
SIZE XXL: 8, 15, 22, 29 and 36 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 10, 17, 24, 31 and 38 cm.
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BACK PIECE
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 104-112-120-130-144-156 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 thread Classic Alpaca, Belle or Puna. Work 2 rows stocking st, 4 rows garter st – see above - and now continue in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 8 cm dec 1 st each side on every 3-3-3.5.-3.5-3.5-3.5 cm a total of 9 times = 86-94-102-112-126-138 sts. When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm cast off for armhole each side at the beg of every row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-2-3-5-7-9 times and 1 st 0-1-2-2-4-5 times = 76-78-80-82-84-86 sts. When piece measures 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm work next row as follows from RS: stocking st on the first 21-21-20-20-20-20 sts, garter st on the next 34-36-40-42-44-46 sts, stocking st on the remaining 21-21-20-20-20-20 sts. Continue like this until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm cast off the middle 16-18-22-24-26-28 sts for neck and cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 29-29-28-28-28-28 sts left on each shoulder (8 garter sts left towards neckline). This has been moved Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 60-64-68-73-80-86 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side) on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 thread Classic Alpaca, Belle or Puna. Work 2 rows stocking st, 4 rows garter st and continue as follows from RS: 52-56-60-65-72-78 stocking sts, 8 garter sts (= front band). When piece measures 8 cm dec 1 st at the side as described for back piece = 51-55-59-64-71-77 sts. When piece measures approx 33-34-35-36-37-39 cm work 2 rows garter st on the 8 front band sts only. Continue on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st inside front band sts – SEE DECREASING TIP! – on every 1 cm a total of 17-18-20-21-22-23 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm cast off for armhole at the side as described for back piece. When all dec are complete there are 29-29-28-28-28-28 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece, but mirrored, and make BUTTONHOLES – see above.

3/4 SLEEVE:
For long sleeves, see below.
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 54-56-58-60-62-64 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4 mm with 1 thread Classic Alpaca, Belle or Puna. Work 2 rows stocking st, 4 rows garter st and then continue in stocking st. When piece measures 6 cm inc 1 st each side on every 3-2.5-2-1.5-1.5-1 cm a total of 9-10-12-14-15-16 times = 72-76-82-88-92-96 sts. When piece measures 33-33-32-32-29-28 cm - NOTE! Less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder – cast off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 4-4-5-6-4-4 times, 1 st 0-1-0-0-8-11 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 39-40-40-41-41-42 cm, now cast off 3 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts on next row. Piece measures approx 40-41-41-42-42-43 cm.

LONG SLEEVE:
For 3/4 sleeves, see above.
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 50-52-54-56-58-58 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4 mm with 1 thread Classic Alpaca, Belle or Puna. Work 2 rows stocking st, 4 rows garter st and then continue in stocking st. When piece measures 5 cm inc 1 st each side on every 4-3.5-3-2.5-2-2 cm a total of 11-12-14-16-17-19 times = 72-76-82-88-92-96 sts. When piece measures 49-49-48-48-45-44 cm - NOTE! Less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder – cast off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 4-4-5-6-4-4 times, 1 st 0-1-0-0-8-11 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 55-56-56-57-57-58 cm, now cast off 3 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts on next row. Piece measures approx 56-57-57-58-58-59 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Sew side and sleeve seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons to fit buttonholes.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 112-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (46)

Christine 19.04.2020 - 20:30:

Liebes Team , können Sie mir bitte helfen? Bei diesem Modell rollt sich das Bündchen ein. Wie kann das verhindert werden?\\r\\nFreue mich auf Ihre Antwort.\\r\\nVielen Dank vorab \\r\\nMit freundlichen Grüßen\\r\\nChristine Niedersüß

DROPS Design 20.04.2020 kl. 11:22:

Liebe Christine, Sie können die Jacke mit Stecknadeln auf einer geeigneten Unterlage spannen, anfeuchten (z.B. mit einer Sprühflasche für Blumen) und trocknen lassen, danach entfernen Sie die Stecknadeln, dann sollte sich der Rand nicht mehr rollen.

Sandra Quentin 08.03.2019 - 11:31:

Hallo Ihr Lieben, Wäre es eigentlich auch möglich diese Jacke rund zu stricken mit einem steek ?

DROPS Design 08.03.2019 kl. 12:41:

Liebe Frau Quentin, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen, aber hier lesen Sie mehr über Jacken in Runden statt in Hin- und Rückreihen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sabine 15.01.2019 - 22:20:

Hallo, liebes drops Team, es wäre doch sehr praktisch, wenn es eine Übersetzungsfunktion für alle gestellten Fragen gäbe. So könnte man vielleicht schon eine Antwort auf die Frage finden, falls sie schon in einer anderen Sprache gestellt wurde. Liebe Grüße

DROPS Design 16.01.2019 kl. 08:57:

Liebe Sabine, gerne können Sie eine Online-Übersezter benutzen, aber gerne können Sie auch Ihre Frage hier stellen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Maria 12.08.2017 - 19:38:

Cuando indica en el delantero izquierdo que a partir de los 8cm hay que ir disminuyendo en el lateral hasta los 71 puntos, tal y como se indica en la espalda, ¿a qué parte de las indicaciones de la espalda se refiere? Porque se disminuye en varios momentos ¿Cada cuánto debo disminuir, cada 3.5cm (en mi caso que estoy haciendo la talla XXL)? Gracias

DROPS Design 13.08.2017 kl. 20:23:

Hola Maria. Se refiere a este texto: "Cuando la labor mida 8 cm dism 1 pt a cada lado cada 3-3-3.5.-3.5-3.5-3.5 cm un total de 9 vcs = 86-94-102-112-126-138 pts. " Para la talla XXL se disminuye cada 3,5 cm.

Ninouchka 17.05.2017 - 23:17:

Modèle très sympa à tricoter mais je pense qu'il y a un oubli dans les explications des devants. Il est écrit : "À 8 cm de hauteur totale, diminuer 1 m sur le côté comme pour le dos = 51-55-59-64-71-77 m". Mais vous ne nous dites pas de continuer toutes les diminutions du dos. On devine qu'il faut le faire pour retomber sur le bon nombre de mailles pour les épaules. Merci pour tous vos superbes modèles disponibles en français !

Michela 07.05.2017 - 01:47:

Buonasera,ho trovato difficoltà nelle maglie della spalla sui davanti,ne restano di piu di 29.facendo le diminuzione alla fine non combaciano con la spalla dietro.dove sbaglio?

DROPS Design 07.05.2017 kl. 08:54:

Buongiorno Michela. Riportiamo tutte le diminuzioni. Per la taglia S, avvia 60 m, poi diminuisce sul lato 1 m per 9 volte e quindi rimangono 51 m. Poi deve diminuire 1 m verso il centro davanti per 17 volte: rimangono 51-17= 34 m. Per gli scalfi deve intrecciare 3 m 1 volta e 2 m 1 volta. Quindi 34-3-2= 29 m per la spalla. Analogamente per le altre taglie. Buon lavoro!

Rosita 25.10.2016 - 17:41:

Buongiorno,questo cardigan e' davvero stupendo ,ma purtroppo la maggior parte dei vostri modelli sono eseguiti solo con ferri circolari e chi come me non riesce proprio ad usarli si ritrova a dover rinunciare ad eseguire i vostri modelli...potreste postare modelli uguali da fare con i classici ferri?grazie...saluti.

DROPS Design 25.10.2016 kl. 19:15:

Buonasera Rosita, questo modello è un cardigan, e quindi non è lavorato in tondo, pef cui può seguire le istruzioni indicate lavorando con i ferri dritti. La maggior parte dei nostri modelli sono lavorati sui ferri circolari per avere spazio per tutte le maglie, ma se legge attentamente le spiegazioni vedrà che non tutti sono lavorati in tondo. Buon lavoro!

Anette 30.08.2016 - 17:59:

Har prøvet at strikke den i Puna. Men synes 6 nøgler er for lidt. Skal bruge mindst 7 til en str. M

Danièle Dupont 12.04.2016 - 11:45:

Je trouve que ça serait génial si vous pouviez indiquer quelle taille porte le mannequin de la photo ! Merci pour vos modèles où je trouve toujours la réalisation qui me plait !

DROPS Design 12.04.2016 kl. 12:19:

Bonjour Mme Dupont, les mannequins portent en général une taille M, toutefois, référez-vous bien aux mesures indiqués dans le schéma en bas de page pour trouver la taille qui vous convient: comparez ces mesures à celles d'un vêtement similaire dont vous aimez la forme. Bon tricot!

Florence 07.12.2013 - 14:55:

Bonjour, j'achève mon tricot et je doute concernant le haut de la manche; je lis: rabattre de chaque côté (...) 1 fois 4 m, 4-4-5-6-4-4 fois 2 m, 0-1-0-0-8-11 fois 1 m puis 2 m jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 39-40-40-41-41-42 cm de hauteur totale, est-ce que c'est 2 mailles en début de chaque rang, ou est-ce seulement une fois 2 mailles? je tombe sur un rang à l'envers, est-ce normal? Ensuite, plus de diminutions sauf 2x3 mailles juste avant de rabattre, c'est ça? Merci de votre réponse.

DROPS Design 08.12.2013 kl. 21:16:

Bonjour Florence, une fois que les premières m sont rabattues de chaque côté, on continue en rabattant 2 m de chaque côté (au début de chaque rang, sur l'endroit et sur l'envers) jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 39-42 cm (cf taille), puis vous rabattez encore 1 fois 3 m de chaque côté (= 3 m au début des 2 rangs suivants, 1 fois sur l'endroit et 1 fois sur l'envers), la manche doit mesurer 40-43 cm, vous rabattez alors les mailles restantes, sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

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