DROPS / 113 / 14

Memory Lane by DROPS Design

DROPS bolero in garter st with turns in ”Fabel” and border in crochet squares. Size S - XXXL.

Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour no 904, lavender mix:
And use: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes colour no 27, light purple

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 23 sts x 45 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm.

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Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
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DROPS Cotton Viscose DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

TURNS: Work shortened rows to shape the bolero at the front. Work turns as follows:
Row 1: Work 24-27-30-33-36-39 sts, turn piece.
Row 2: Work all sts.
Row 3: Work 21-24-27-30-33-36 sts, turn piece.
Row 4: Work all sts.
Row 5: Work 18-21-24-27-30-33 sts, turn piece.
Row 6: Work all sts.
Row 7: Work 15-18-21-24-27-30 sts, turn piece.
Row 8: Work all sts.
Continue like this with 3 less sts before each turn until you have worked 2 rows on the 3 first sts only. Now work 2 rows on all sts.
Repeat from row 1 a total of 5 times. There are now 18-20-22-24-26-28 rows garter st towards mid front and 2 rows garter st towards the side and front piece now measures approx 20-22-24-27-29-31 cm towards mid front and 2 cm towards the side.
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BACK PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle. See fig.1.
Cast on 68-78-88-98-110-122 sts on needle size 3.5 mm with Fabel and work garter st – see above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 4 cm continue as follows:
SIZE S: Inc 1 st each side, repeat the inc on every 2.5 cm a total of 7 times = 82 sts.
SIZE M: Inc 1 st each side, repeat the inc on every 3 cm a total of 6 times = 90 sts.
SIZE L: Inc 1 st each side, repeat the inc on every 5 cm a total of 3 times = 94 sts.
SIZE XL: Inc 1 st each side, repeat the inc on every 5 cm a total of 3 times = 104 sts.
SIZE XXL: No inc.
SIZE XXXL: No inc.
ALL SIZES: When piece measures 20-21-22-22-23-24 cm cast off the middle 22-24-22-26-26-32 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Cast off at the beg of every row from neckline: 1 st 3 times = 27-30-33-36-39-42 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 22-23-24-24-25-26 cm.

FRONT PIECE: Worked from one shoulder towards the bottom edge, then across and up towards the other shoulder – see fig.2.
Cast on 27-30-33-36-39-42 sts on needle size 3.5 mm with Fabel. Work 21-22-23-23-24-25 cm garter st. Now continue with TURNS – see above. After TURNS work 28-32-36-41-46-51 cm garter st and now work TURNS again the other side. Work 21-22-23-23-24-25 cm garter st and cast off.

ASSEMBLY: Place back piece between side pieces on front piece. Fold the 2 side pieces on front piece towards the middle. Sew shoulder seams A to A and B to B in outer loops of sts, and sew C to C at bottom of back piece in the same way – continue the seam up along the sides so that armhole measures approx 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm.

CROCHET SQUARES:

Explanation Bobble: 3 tr crochet tog: wait with the last pull-through until all 3 tr have been crochet, make a yarn over hook and pull yarn through all 4 sts on hook.

Work 4 ch with crochet hook size 3.5 mm and Fabel and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 6 dc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 dc in each dc = 12 dc.
ROUND 3: 2 tr in each dc (replace first tr with 3 ch), only crochet in the back loop of sts = 24 tr.
ROUND 4: 4 ch, skip 1 tr, * 1 dc, 3 ch, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in first ch = 12 ch-loops
ROUND 5: 4 ch, in first ch-loop crochet from *-* as follows: * 1 bobble - see above, 2 ch, 1 bobble, 4 ch, 1 bobble, 2 ch, 1 bobble *, 3 ch, 1 tr in dc between the next 2 ch-loops, 3 ch, in next ch-loop crochet from *-* as above, 4 ch, 1 tr in dc between the next 2 ch-loops, 4 ch, in next ch-loop crochet from *-* as above, 3 ch, 1 tr in dc between the next 2 ch-loops, 3 ch, in next ch-loop crochet from *-* as above, and finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in third ch from beg of round.
Two of the sides are now the same width, approx 6 cm, 1 is smaller, approx 5 cm and 1 is wider, approx 7 cm.
ROUND 6: Crochet dc’s in all ch-loops as follows: 1 dc in first ch-loop, 2 dc in next, 5 dc in next (= corner), then 2 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 dc, 5 dc (= corner), 2 dc, 4 dc, 4 dc, 2 dc, 5 dc (= corner), 2 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 dc, 5 dc (= corner), 2 dc and 1 dc in the last ch-loop, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. Cut the thread.

Make approx 25-27-29-32-34-36 squares. Sew squares tog to a long row, edge to edge - place the squares so that all the shorter sides of squares are at the same side and all the longer sides at the opposite side in order the row becomes curved.
Begin sewing the row to neckline mid back. Sew the shorter side to body piece, edge to edge. Continue down along one front piece, and along bottom edge to mid back. Beg mid back at neckline again and continue to mid back at bottom edge. If you need more/less squares, adjust this before sewing tog the squares mid back at bottom edge.

SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 58-60-62-66-66-68 sts on needle size 3.5 mm Fabel. Work garter st. When piece measures 7 cm inc 1 st each side, and repeat the inc on every 3.5-3-2.5-2.5-2-2 cm a total of 9-10-12-12-14-15 times = 76-80-86-90-94-98 sts. When piece measures 37 cm cast off 3 sts each side at the beg of every row until piece measures 40 cm. Cast off remaining sts.
Sew sleeve seams in outer loops of sts and set in sleeves.

CROCHET BORDER: Crochet a border round the opening with crochet hook size 3.5 mm and Cotton Viscose as follows – beg in the first square mid back at neckline: 1 dc in second st on square, * 1 picot (= 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch), skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* (= 7 picots along each square + 1 in seam between each square) and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
Crochet a similar border round sleeve edges.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 15.04.2009
CROCHET SQUARES:

Explanation Bobble: 3 tr crochet tog: wait with the last pull-through until all 3 tr have been crochet, make a yarn over hook and pull yarn through all 4 sts on hook.

Work 4 ch with crochet hook size 3.5 mm and Fabel and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 6 dc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 dc in each dc = 12 dc.
ROUND 3: 2 tr in each dc (replace first tr with 3 ch), only crochet in the back loop of sts = 24 tr.
ROUND 4: 4 ch, skip 1 tr, * 1 dc, 3 ch, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in first ch = 12 ch-loops
ROUND 5: 4 ch, in first ch-loop crochet from *-* as follows: * 1 bobble - see above, 2 ch, 1 bobble, 4 ch, 1 bobble, 2 ch, 1 bobble *, 3 ch, 1 tr in dc between the next 2 ch-loops, 3 ch, in next ch-loop crochet from *-* as above, 4 ch, 1 tr in dc between the next 2 ch-loops, 4 ch, in next ch-loop crochet from *-* as above, 3 ch, 1 tr in dc between the next 2 ch-loops, 3 ch, in next ch-loop crochet from *-* as above, and finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in third ch from beg of round.
Two of the sides are now the same width, approx 6 cm, 1 is smaller, approx 5 cm and 1 is wider, approx 7 cm.
ROUND 6: Crochet dc’s in all ch-loops as follows: 1 dc in first ch-loop, 2 dc in next, 5 dc in next (= corner), then 2 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 dc, 5 dc (= corner), 2 dc, 4 dc, 4 dc, 2 dc, 5 dc (= corner), 2 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 dc, 5 dc (= corner), 2 dc and 1 dc in the last ch-loop, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. Cut the thread.

Diagram



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 113-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (78)

Paula 19.11.2013 - 20:21:

Oh, my apologies! I see that the pattern was displayed a few days ago in US, and now it is in British. So nothing has changed. You can ignore my earlier question.

Paula 19.11.2013 - 20:01:

Hi--yes, I know that American and UK terminology differs. I printed this pattern off just a few days ago and I see that the double crochets have definitely been changed since then to triple crochets.

Paula 19.11.2013 - 17:31:

I see that a few corrections were made yesterday to the crochet portion of this pattern (double crochets were changed to triple crochets). Are we sure? Now the circle is not laying flat. Should I be turning in between rounds? thanks

DROPS Design 19.11.2013 kl. 18:14:

Dear Paula, note that US-English and UK-English is different in crochet terminology, ie a US- dc is a UK- tr. Did you check the measurement of the square after round 5? Do not hesitate to take a smaller/larger hook if necessary. Happy crocheting!

Paula 18.11.2013 - 12:08:

I tried everything I could, but the crochet part of this pattern, I just couldn't get to work out. A shame, as I already did all the knitting :(

Paula 17.11.2013 - 17:28:

Also, when I do the bobbles in round 5, the chain loops become very stretched, creating big holes. Is that normal? (4 bobbles are crocheted a single chain).

DROPS Design 18.11.2013 kl. 10:05:

Dear Paula, at the end of round 5, 2 sides should measure 3/8’’, 1 is smaller, approx 2’’ and 1 is wider, approx 2¾’’. You may take a smaller crochet hook if necessary. Happy crocheting!

Paula 17.11.2013 - 17:26:

Also, when I do the bobbles in round 5, the chain loops become very stretched, creating big holes. Is that normal? (4 bobbles are crocheted a single chain).

Paula 17.11.2013 - 14:41:

Re Round 5 of the crochet squares: my finished product comes out flat on on side, but fairly rounded on the opposite side (which is also the longest side). Should all sides be straight? Round 6: the single crochets don't logically align with what I crocheted in Round 5. I am wondering if I am making a mistake in Round 5 with the word "next". When it says "next" in Round 5, do we actually mean "skip one", or do we mean, "very next"? thanks

DROPS Design 18.11.2013 kl. 10:01:

Dear Paula, at the end of round 5, 2 sides are the same widht, 1 is smaller and the last one is wider (see measures at the end of round 5). When it says "next ch-loop" eg,it means very next one,not skip one. Happy crocheting!

Paula 15.11.2013 - 21:27:

On round 5 of the crochet squares, am I going into the chain loops, or the actual chains of the loops? My bobbles are not working; they are flat and are making the work pucker.

DROPS Design 16.11.2013 kl. 10:02:

Dear Paula, bobbles in round 5 are worked in ch-loops from round 4. This video could help you with the bobbles (just take care to make only 3 dc (US-Eng)instead of 4 in the video. Happy crocheting!

Paula 13.11.2013 - 19:49:

What am I doing wrong with my bobbles? They are laying flat, and the entire circle is puckering.

Villani 04.05.2012 - 09:05:

Très confortable, très agréable à porter. Seulement : le nombre de carrés indiqués s'est révélé trop grand pour mon ouvrage. J'ai donc un peu froncé derrière, d'où un très joli effet caraco et un petit revers formant col.

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