DROPS Baby / 18 / 12

Poppy's Bonnet by DROPS Design

Knitted bonnet hat with wave pattern for baby and children in DROPS Alpaca

Size: 1/3 - 6/9 –12/18 months (2 – 3/4) years
Head circumference: 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm.
Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes colour no 0100, off-white

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 rows x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 2.25£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

WAVY PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from the RS. Row 1 = RS.
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BONNET:
Worked back and forth on needle.
LOOSELY cast on 87-93-106 (108-112) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3 mm with Alpaca. Work 4 rows garter st – SEE ABOVE. Work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, 0-3-1 (2-4) stocking sts, M.1 on the next 85-85-102 (102-102) sts, 0-3-1 (2-4) stocking sts and 1 edge st. Continue like this until piece measures 11-12-13 (14-15) cm.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Now cast off 30-32-37 (38-40) sts each side = 27-29-32 (32-32) sts left on row (= mid back). Work garter st on these sts, AT THE SAME TIME after 2 cm cast off 1 st each side and repeat the dec on every 2 cm a total of 4 times = 19-21-24 (24-24) sts left on row. Cast off when piece measures 12-13-15 (16-17) cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew piece mid back to side pieces, edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

Pick up approx 71 to 95 sts (divisible by 2 + 1) along bottom edge of bonnet on needle size 3 mm with Alpaca. Work 5 rows stocking st with 1 garter st each side. Work next row as follows from RS: K1, * K2 tog, 1 YO * repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, K these (= casing). Work 5 rows stocking st with 1 garter st each side and cast off.
Fold edge double towards WS and fasten.

TIE STRING:
Cut 3 strings measuring approx 200 cm each, twist them hard, fold them double and let them twist again. Tie a knot each end and thread through casing.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= K2 tog
= 1 YO between 2 sts

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 18-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (35)

Beate Hüttig 10.07.2019 - 21:48:

Hallo, Ich suche verzwiefelt eine Anleitung für Babyjacke mit diesem Wellenmuster und oben glatt rechts . hier ist ja die Mütze. und die Zeit drängt, weil das Baby bald kommt. ich habe für meine Tochter damals viel gestrickt,aber keine Anleitungen mehr. Können Sie sowas anbieten? mit den englischen Anleitungen im Internet komme ich nicht klar. MfG B.Hüttig

DROPS Design 11.07.2019 kl. 08:26:

Liebe Frau Hüftig, wir können Ihnen die Babymodellen Snow Baby und Roly Poly vorschlagen, damit können Sie vielleicht sowas anpassen, das Modell Wonder Wave gibt es dann ab Grösse 3/4 Jahre. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Helene 28.11.2018 - 20:00:

Hei, når vi skal strikke 11 cm er dette målt fra det smaleste eller bredeste punktet? Altså toppen eller bunnen av bølgen?

Uilebeesje 05.09.2018 - 16:09:

Proeflapje van 24 nld x 32 nld.... ik denk dat dit 24 steken x 32 naalden zijn? Of 24 naalden van 32 steken.....?

DROPS Design 06.09.2018 kl. 10:27:

Dag Uilebeesje, Oeps... dat zijn inderdaad steken en geen naalden. Bedankt voor het doorgeven, ik pas het gelijk aan!

Verriest Veronique 14.10.2015 - 19:22:

J ai tricoter ce petit bonnet en 18 mois donc 102 maille départ après les 13 cm je retrouve avec plus de 200 mailles j ai fait 3 fois deux maille ensemble puis 6 jeter puis 3 fois de maille ensemble ect jusque la fin de mon aiguille mais je comprend pas pourquoi j ai autant maille merci de m aider j adore ce modèle je voudrais le réussir

DROPS Design 15.10.2015 kl. 08:44:

Bonjour Mme Verriest, la vidéo ci-dessous montre une variante du même point, mais le rang avec les jetés est le même: 3 fois (2 m ens à l'end), puis 5 fois (1 jeté, 1 m end), 1 jeté, puis 3 fois (2 m ens à l'end). Le nombre de m doit toujours rester le même. Bon tricot!

Hanna Izn 31.07.2015 - 16:03:

Für die Unterkante: dort steht "aufnehmen", nach der Beschreibung steht aber "von links annähen". Ist das jetzt separat zu stricken und anzunähn oder über Maschenaufnahme direkt anzustricken. Wenn direkt anzustricken: habt ihr vielleicht ein Video, wo das gezeigt wird, dass das auch wirklich schön wird. Weil es kommen da ja zwei Quell-Maschenarten zusammen (abgegekettete Maschen in der Mitte, Randmaschen seitlich).

DROPS Design 01.08.2015 kl. 09:49:

Der untere Rand wird angestrickt, Sie fassen also M aus dem Rand auf und stricken diesen. Die Faustregel für das Auffassen von M aus einem seitlichen Rand lautet 4 R - 3 M, also fassen Sie aus 4 R 3 M auf, das gilt allerdings für glatt rechts, achten Sie einfach beim Auffassen darauf, dass der Rand sich weder wellt noch zu stramm wird. Dann stricken Sie den Rand und nach dem Abketten der M schlagen Sie den Rand nach innen um und nähen die Abkettkante an der Innenseite fest, auf diese Weise ergibt sich ein Durchzug für die Kordel.

Ute Hessing 12.07.2015 - 10:44:

Können Sie mir bitte sagen, wieviel Maschen ich für ein Neugeborenes anschlagen muss? Welche Maße brauche ich dazu? Wie kann ich den Maschenanschlag grundsätzlich berechnen? Danke für Ihre Hilfe.

DROPS Design 13.07.2015 kl. 09:19:

Angaben für eine kleinere Größe als 1-3 Monate haben wir nicht vorliegen, aber das ist ja schon sehr klein, ab besten stricken Sie diese Größe, dann passt die Mütze auch etwas länger.

Tone 22.05.2015 - 21:38:

Hei, Nydelig kyse!! Jeg skulle gjerne strikket denne i str 5 år, har dere forslag til hvor mange masker jeg da kan legge opp til å begynne med for at mønsteret skal passe? :)

DROPS Design 25.05.2015 kl. 10:04:

Hej Tone, Du bør kunne bruge den største størrelse og så evt strikke 1 cm mere inden du begynder at felle. God fornøjelse!

Marie-Émilie 25.01.2015 - 15:55:

Merci pour ce beau modèle aux finitions parfaites. Bien couvrant sur la tête de mon bebe. Pas de difficultés particulières explications très claire.

Claire 13.02.2014 - 16:08:

Je tricote actuellement ce modèle et je pense qu'au lieu de rabattre les mailles au moment de tricoter l'arrière, il est possible de les laisser en attente et de les reprendre au fur et a mesure en reprenant 1 maille avec la maille du bord en les tricotant par 2. qu'en pensez-vous?

DROPS Design 13.02.2014 kl. 17:36:

Bonjour Claire, vous pouvez tout à fait procéder ainsi si vous le souhaitez, toutefois, n'oubliez pas les diminutions à faire après 2 cm, et tous les 2 cm. Bon tricot!

Jonna 27.08.2013 - 15:26:

Vilka maskor från M1 ska tas bort då mönster för 85 maskor ska gälla. Det är ju totalt 102 maskor annars i M1.

DROPS Design 29.08.2013 kl. 11:26:

M.1 består av 17 maskor, så ska du sticka M.1 över 85 maskor så stickar du M.1 5 gånger. Lycka till!

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