DROPS / 108 / 47

Wisteria by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS shawl with lace pattern in ”Kid-Silk”.

Tags: lace, shawls, top down,
Measurements:
Length mid back: approx 85 cm.
Width at top: approx 170 cm.
Materials: DROPS Kid-Silk
100 g colour no 11, purple

DROPS circular needle size 3 mm (80 cm) – or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Pattern: See diagram M.1 to M.4.
Diagram shows the pattern from the RS.
Fig-1 shows how to work the beg of shawl.

Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.

Increasing tip: Make all inc from RS. Inc 4 sts on every other row throughout as follows:
Inc 1 st at beg of row: 3 garter sts, 1 YO. P YO on return row.
Inc 2 sts in the middle of piece: 1 YO, 2 stocking sts (= middle sts), 1 YO. P YO on return row.
Inc 1 st at the end of row: 1 YO, 3 garter sts. P YO on return row.

shawl
Worked back and forth on circular needle (to fit in all sts). Beg at neck mid back. Note! Always start a new ball of yarn at beg of row and not in the middle of piece.
Cast on 10 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with Kid-Silk.
Insert 1 marker after the 5th st (marks the middle of shawl).
Work first row as follows (= RS): 3 garter sts, 1 YO, 4 garter sts, 1 YO, 3 garter sts = 12 sts.
Now continue in stocking st with 3 garter sts each side, at the same time inc 4 sts on every other row - see Increasing tip.
Remember the knitting tension!
Continue like this until there are 20 sts on row.
Now continue as follows from RS: 3 garter sts, 1 YO, K1, M.1, K1, 1 YO, K2 (= middle sts), 1 YO, K1, M.1 and finish with K1, 1 YO, 3 garter sts. Continue with inc at sides and mid back – see Fig 1. After 17 repeats of M.1 (= 88 sts) work next row as follows from RS: 3 garter sts, 1 YO, K1, * M.1, K13 *, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times, M.1, K1, 1 YO, K2 (= middle sts), 1 YO, 1K, * M.1, K13 *, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times, M.1,K1, 1 YO, 3 garter sts.
Work 17 vertical repeats of M.1 like this (= 6 repeats across the row) = 156 sts.
Now work next row as follows from RS: 3 garter sts, 1 YO, K1, * M.1, K13 *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, M.1, K1, 1 YO, K2 (= middle sts), 1 YO, K1, * M.1, K13 *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, M.1, K1, 1 YO, 3 garter sts.
Work 17 vertical repeats of M.1 like this (= 10 repeats across the row) = 224 sts.
Now work next row as follows from RS: 3 garter sts, 1 YO, K1, * M.1, K13 *, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times, M.1, K1, 1 YO, K2 (= middle sts), 1 YO, K1 * M.1, K13 *, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times, M.1, K1, 1 YO, 3 garter sts.
Work 15 vertical repeats of M.1 like this (= 14 repeats across the row) = 284 sts.
Now work next row as follows from RS: 3 garter sts, 1 YO, K1, M.2 on the next 136 sts, K1, 1 YO, K2 (= middle sts), 1 YO, K1, M.2 on the next 136 sts, K1, 1 YO, 3 garter sts.
Work 1 vertical repeat of M.2 = 352 sts.
Now work next row as follows from RS: 3 garter sts, 1 YO, K1, M.3 on the next 170 sts, K1, 1 YO, K2 (= middle sts), 1 YO, K1, M.3 on the next 170 sts, K1, 1 YO, 3 garter sts.
Work 1 vertical repeat of M.3, and now continue in M.4.
Work inc sts not fitting into pattern in stocking st until there are enough new sts for a full repeat.
Continue in M.4 and with inc at sides and in the middle until the wavy pattern measures approx 18 cm.
Cast off loosely.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 15.04.2009
Now work next row as follows from RS: 3 garter sts, 1 YO, K1, * M.1, K13 *, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times, M.1, K1, 1 YO, K2 (= middle sts), 1 YO, K1 * M.1, K13 *, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times, M.1, K1, 1 YO, 3 garter sts.
Work 15 vertical repeats of M.1 like this (= 14 repeats across the row) = 284 sts.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= K 2 tog
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
= P from RS, K from WS
= slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso.
= P2 tog


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 108-47) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (85)

Mari Kärkkäinen 31.10.2019 - 21:11:

"Ainaoikeaa" Aina oikeaa tarkoittaa, että työssä neulotaan pelkästään oikeilla silmukoilla. Suomen kielellä ei ole olemassa silmukkaa nimeltä ainaoikea, vaan silmukat neulotaan joko oikein tai nurin eli ei neulota 1 tai 3 silmukkaa ainaoikeaa, vaan ne neulotaan oikein. Termin käyttö on hämäävä.

Charlotte Rendil 21.02.2019 - 23:44:

Jeg er nået til rapport M3 og M4 ,men det virker som volapyk for mig . Jeg kan ikke få krydsene til at passe oven på hinanden . Hvor mange masker er der mellem rapporterne , det kan man ikke se på diagrammet . Kan jeg få en forklaring hvordan jeg kommer videre . Der må også skulle tages nogle masker ind ved hulmønsteret ellers bliver der for mange masker . Håber på hurtigt svar ,da jeg skal have sjalet færdigt til en konfirmation . Venlig hilsen Charlotte Rendil

DROPS Design 05.04.2019 kl. 12:02:

Hej Charlotte, Hvis du sørger for at få de 9 midterste masker (med de 6 midterste omslag) over hinanden, så skal der på første møsterpind strikkes 8 masker sammen 2 og 2 imellem. Sæt gerne en mærketråd for hver gang du starter diagrammet forfra igen, så er det lettere at holde styr på. Husk at du på første pind skal have 17 masker mellem mærketrådene. God fornøjelse!

Sabine Adam 14.02.2019 - 12:27:

Vielen Dank - in der Anleitung ist das leider nicht klar ausgedrückt.

Sabine 14.02.2019 - 09:37:

Guten Tag, können Sie mir sagen, was in M4 bedeutet 'Die neuen Maschen werden nach und nach ins Muster eingearbeitet'? Danke!

DROPS Design 14.02.2019 kl. 11:43:

Liebe Sabine, wenn Sie M.4 stricken, nehmen Sie immer neuen Maschen zu (auf beiden Seiten + beidseitig der mittleren Maschen), diese Maschen stricken Sie wie im M.4, dh rechts oder links, aber erst wenn Sie genügend Maschen für ein ganzes Muster (21 M) werden diese Maschen wie im M.4 gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sabine Adam 31.01.2019 - 16:50:

Tut mir Leid, aber lt. 1. Symbol (leeres Karo = re. auf re. und li. auf li.) müsste ich doch die 6 Maschen von M2 (je 3 am Anfang u 3 am Ende v M2) m d Kreuz, die auf der Vorderseite links erscheinen, in der 1. R. v M3 links stricken (li auf li)?

DROPS Design 01.02.2019 kl. 08:26:

Liebe Frau Adam, nach M.2 stricken Sie M.3 mit je 1 Masche rechts (glatt rechts) auf beiden Seiten von den 170 M in M.3, die 2 ersten Reihen in M.3 stricken Sie glatt rechts. Bei der 3. Reihe in M.3 (= Hinreihe) werden die Maschen in M.3 entweder 2 li zs oder rechts gestrickt. Die Maschen auf beiden Seiten der 170 M stricken Sie immer noch glatt rechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sabine 30.01.2019 - 17:56:

Hallo, ich beginne mit M3, d.h. die ersten beiden Reihen sind re. auf re. und li. auf li. Bei der ersten Hinreihe erscheinen von M2 jeweils 6 Maschen links - muss ich diese in der ersten Hinreihe auch links stricken bzw. auf der Rückreihe rechts?

DROPS Design 31.01.2019 kl. 09:25:

Liebe Sabine, ja genau, jetzt stricken Sie M.3 über M.2, dh alle Maschen werden jetzt glatt rechts gestrickt, wie im Muster und wie in der schrifftlichen Anleitung erklärt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sabiane 28.01.2019 - 16:01:

Ja, danke - so hatte ich es auch verstanden.

Sabine 24.01.2019 - 17:00:

Hallo; Sie schreiben am 21.1., dass die mittlere M. in M2 auch glatt links gestrickt wird (was ja heißt hin links, zurück rechts bzw. umgekehrt, oder?). Bezieht sich das nur auf die mittlere M. von M2? Das verstehe ich nicht. Die mittlere M.hat doch ein Kreuz für li. auf re./re. auf li. wie die M. daneben auch und ist nicht anders als diese. Danke.

DROPS Design 25.01.2019 kl. 08:43:

Liebe Sabine, die 9. Reihe in M.2 stricken Sie so: 1 Abnahme, 1 Umschlag, 4 M re, 1 Abnahme, 1 Umschlag, 1 M li, 1 Umschlag, 1 Abnahme, 4 M re, 1 Umschlag, 1 Abnahme. Bei der 10. Reihe (Rückreihe) stricken Sie die 3 mittleren Maschen rechts: 7 M li, 3 M re, 7 M li. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sabine Adam 21.01.2019 - 19:44:

Danke für Ihre Antwort. Sie schreiben, die mittlere M. in M2 wird glatt rechts gestrickt -aber sie hat doch ein Kreuz, also muss sie doch kraus gestrickt werden (hin re, zurück auch re)?

DROPS Design 22.01.2019 kl. 08:00:

Liebe Frau Adam, die Maschen mit dem Kreuz sollen links bei Hinreichen und rechts bei Rückreihen gestrickt werden, dh glatt links, nicht krausrechts. siehe 5. Symbol. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sabine Adam 19.01.2019 - 21:35:

Hallo, wie stricke ich in Muster 2 in der Rückreihe die Zunahmen in der Mitte des Musters (ich meine die zwischen den Maschen, die links auf rechts und rechts auf links gestrickt werden). Ich stricke sie ja rechts - steche ich wie beim Rechtsstricken vorne in die Masche (dann werden die Löcher sehr groß) oder hinten? Danke

DROPS Design 21.01.2019 kl. 10:26:

Liebe Frau Adam, die Zunahmen zwischen den linken Maschen in der Mitte M.2 sollen links bei den Hinreihen und rechts ben den Rückreihen gestrickt (= kreuz im Diagram), beachten Sie nur daß die Umschläge nicht zu locker sind, die mittlere Masche im M.2 wird auch glatt links gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 108-47

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.