DROPS / 110 / 10

DROPS 110-10 by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS gloves in fan pattern in ”Alpaca”.

Size: S - M - L
Materials: DROPS Alpaca
100 g colour no 3770, dark pink

DROPS crochet hook size 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 tr x 13 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
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DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet tip-1:
Replace first dc on round with 1 ch, and finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
Replace first tr on round with 3 ch, and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
Replace first dtr on round with 4 ch, and finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round.
Crochet tip-2: When working dc over dtr, crochet in dtr, but when working dc over fan with picots crochet between sts. Make sure the picot sits at the front of piece.
Decreasing tip:
Dtr: work 1 dtr but wait with the last YO and pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), work next dtr and when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all 3 sts on hook. 1 dtr dec.
Dc: work 1 dc but wait with the last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), work next dc and now pull thread through all 3 sts on hook. 1 dc dec.
Increasing tip: Inc 1 dtr by working 2 dtr in 1 dtr.
Fan pattern: See diagram M.1.
Textured pattern:
Worked on all sts not included in M.1. The textured pattern follows the pattern in M.1, i.e. when working dc in M.1 work dc in textured pattern and when working fans in M.1 work dtr in textured pattern.

Glove: Worked from the fingertips towards the hand, i.e. all the fingers are crochet first.
Little finger: Crochet 4 ch with crochet hook size 3 mm with Alpaca and form a ring with 1 sl st in the first ch. Work 8-10-10 tr in ring – see Crochet info-1. Continue in the round with 1 tr in each tr until finger measures 5-6-7 cm. Cut the thread and put piece aside.
Ring finger: Crochet 4 ch and form a ring with 1 sl st in the first ch. Work 10-12-12 tr in ring. Continue in the round with 1 tr in each tr until finger measures 6-7-8 cm. Cut the thread and put piece aside.
Middle finger: Crochet 4 ch and form a ring with 1 sl st in the first ch. Work 12-12-14 tr in ring. Continue in the round with 1 tr in each tr until finger measures 7-8-9 cm. Cut the thread and put piece aside.
Index finger: Like middle finger until finger measures 6-7-8 cm. Cut the thread and put piece aside.
Thumb: Crochet 4 ch and form a ring with 1 sl st in the first ch. Work 12-14-16 tr in ring. Continue in the round with 1 tr in each tr until finger measures 5-6-7 cm. Cut the thread and put piece aside.

Right hand: Work 1 tr in 5-6-6 tr on ring finger, continue with 1 tr in 6-6-7 tr on middle finger. Now work 1 tr in each tr round the index finger, continue with 6-6-7 tr on the other side of middle finger and 5-6-6 tr on the other side of ring finger = 34-36-40 tr (there will be small holes between fingers, sew these tog afterwards). Cut the thread.
Now work 1 tr in 4-5-5 tr on little finger and continue round the hand, at the same time dec 6 tr evenly – see Decreasing tip – and finish with 4-5-5 tr on the other side of little finger = 36-40-44 tr on round. Insert a Marking Thread (MT) in the side of little finger (marks the side of glove).
Remember the crochet tension and see Textured pattern!
Continue int he round as follows:
1 dtr in each of the first 18-21-23 tr, M.1 on the next 9 tr, 1 dtr in each of the next 0-1-2 tr, M.1 on the next 9 tr and 1 dtr in each of the last 0-0-1 tr on round.
Continue like this until piece measures 4 cm from MT at side.

Now work next round including thumb as follows: 1 st in each of the first 18-20-21 sts, 1 st in each tr round the thumb and then 1 st in each of next 0-1-2 sts, M.1 on the next 9 sts, 1 st in each of next 0-1-2 sts, M.1 on the next 9 sts, 1 st in each of the last 0-0-1 sts on round = 48-54-60 tr on round.

Insert a new MT at the other side of piece, i.e. 6-7-8 thumb sts on each side of MT. Continue as before, at the same time dec for thumb gusset as follows:
Dec 1 dtr/dc on each side of MT on thumb on every round a total of 6-7-8 times – see Decrteasing tip = 36-40-44 sts.
When all dec are complete work 1 round as follows: 1 st in each of the first 18-21-23 sts, M.1 on the next 9 sts, 1 st in each of the next 0-1-2 sts, M.1 on the next 9 sts and 1 st in each of the last 0-0-1 sts on round.
Insert a new MT in piece, and now measure piece from here.
Work next round as follows:
1 st in each of the first 0-1-1 sts, M.1 on the next 9 sts, 1 st in each of the next 0-1-2 sts, M.1 on the next 9 sts, 1 st in each of the next 0-1-2 sts, M.1 on the next 9 sts, 1 st in each of the next 0-1-2 sts, M.1 on the next 9 sts and finish round with 1 st in each of the last 0-0-1 sts.
Continue like until piece measures approx 3 cm from MT. Now inc 1 dtr – see Increasing tip – in each dtr-section (i.e. between fans = 4 inc) on every 3 cm a total of 3 times = 48-52-56 sts. Incorporate inc sts in pattern as you go along, i.e. increasing no of sts between M.1. When piece measures approx 12 cm from MT, cut the thread.
Left hand: Like right hand, but mirrored. Mirror pattern as follows: After the little finger, ring finger, middle finger and index finger have been crochet tog continue as follows: work 1 dtr in each of the first 0-0-1tr, M.1 on the next 9 tr, 1 dtr in each of the next 0-1-2 tr, M.1 on the next 9 tr and 1 dtr in each of the last 18-21-23 tr on round.
Assembly: Sew the small holes between fingers.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 12.03.2009
Now work next round including thumb as follows: 1 st in each of the first 18-20-21 sts, 1 st in each tr round the thumb and then 1 st in each of next 0-1-2 sts, M.1 on the next 9 sts, 1 st in each of next 0-1-2 sts, M.1 on the next 9 sts, 1 st in each of the last 0-0-1 sts on round = 48-54-60 tr on round.

Diagram

= tr
= dtr
= dc – see Crochet info-2!
= tr with picot, i.e. work tr as usual, then work 3 ch and 1 sl st in the first of these 3 ch.
= this row is explained in pattern, beg on next row.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 110-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (27)

Seve 30.11.2016 - 22:26:

Je ne comprends pas qand vous dites crocheter une maille dans les 20 premières mailles : de quel type de maille s' agit-il? Merci

DROPS Design 01.12.2016 kl. 09:36:

Bonjour Seve, en fonction du rang crocheté (DB ou ms) dans M.1 vous ferez soit 1 DB soit 1 ms. Bon crochet!

Christy 16.11.2014 - 03:22:

Ok I figured out how to join all the fingers on my own. Now I'm on 1 tr in each of the first 18 dc, m.1 on next 9 dc and 1 tr in each of next 0-0-1 dc? 0....what on earth? Is this the pattern that needed to be fixed? Cause I read that 1 of the same pattern was messed up. I want to make sure I'm using the right pattern.

DROPS Design 17.11.2014 kl. 10:43:

If you are working the first 2 sizes, finish the round with M1 over the next 9 dc - in the last size, you will finish the round with 1 tr in the next 1 dc. Happy crocheting!

Christy 15.11.2014 - 23:48:

One last thing. I thought m.1 was an abbreviation for a make 1 in knitting? Now I'm really confused. I don't mean to be rude but I only have till Monday to get these finished. I can't wait forever on answers and help.

DROPS Design 17.11.2014 kl. 10:41:

Dear Christy, M.1 is here the name of the pattern you will find at the bottom of written pattern where each st is represented by a symbol - diagram text is just above diagram. Read more about diagrams here. Happy crocheting!

Christy 15.11.2014 - 21:12:

Forgot to add this is my first time. making gloves.

Christy 15.11.2014 - 21:08:

The pattern for the drops gloves fan pattern is confusing I crocheted all 4 of the fingers and can't figure out what it's talking about from there. I understand all abbreviations that's not a problem. I did three fingers with 10 st around instead of 12. My fingers are small but long so I had to go longer than the directions said. I did 8 stitches around for little finger. Do you have a tutorial on how to do the whole glove?

DROPS Design 17.11.2014 kl. 10:05:

Dear Christy, when all fingers are done, work half the sts on ring finger, half the sts + 1 on middle finger + all sts on index finger, then work unworked sts on middle finger + ring finger. Cut the thread. Work then half the sts on little finger, work then a row over all sts (over the 3 fingers) and finish with unworked sts on little finger and continue in the round. Happy crocheting!

Katerina 31.01.2013 - 19:05:

Please fix: Ring finger: Work 10-12-12 tr instead of Work 10-10-12 tr

DROPS Design 02.02.2013 kl. 09:51:

Dear Katerina, pattern has been edited to 10-12-12 tr for Ring finger, thank you ! Happy crocheting !

Fatemeh 02.12.2012 - 13:26:

When connect the thumb to the glove, we must crochet st or tr? in this paragraph: "Now work next round including thumb as follows: 1 st in each of the first 18-20-21 sts, 1 st in each dc round the thumb and then 1 st in each of next 0-1-2 sts, M.1 on the next 9 sts, 1 st in each of next 0-1-2 sts, M.1 on the next 9 sts and 1 st in each of the last 0-0-1 sts on round = 48-54-60 dc on round. "

DROPS Design 03.12.2012 kl. 09:16:

Dear Fatemeh, you have to crochet this round when piece measures 4 cm, so following your tension, you may have to crochet either 1 tr (uk)/pattern or dc (uk), so just follow how you are working, considering 1 stitch as it should be worked previously. Happy crocheting !

Drops Design France 06.02.2012 - 11:30:

Bonjour Elhem et merci. Pour imprimer les explications, cliquez sur 'imprimer' à droite de la photo, sur la page des explications. Bon crochet !

Elhem 06.02.2012 - 11:08:

J'aime beaucoup ce modèle je veux recevoir son patron ou

DROPS Design 30.04.2011 - 07:39:

Hola Olga, hemos tomado nota para traducir este patrón a la brevedad posible. Saludos afectuosos!

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