DROPS / 109 / 14

Sandy Bay by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket with pleats in textured pattern in ”Snow”. Size S - XXXL.

  • Sandy Bay / DROPS 109-14 - DROPS jacket with pleats in textured pattern in ”Snow”. Size S - XXXL.
  • Sandy Bay / DROPS 109-14 - DROPS jacket with pleats in textured pattern in ”Snow”. Size S - XXXL.
  • Sandy Bay / DROPS 109-14 - DROPS jacket with pleats in textured pattern in ”Snow”. Size S - XXXL.
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
900-1000-1100-1250-1350-1500 g colour no 48, beige mix

DROPS circular needle size 7 mm (80 cm) – for garter st.
DROPS circular needle size 8 mm (80 cm) - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS double pointed needles size 7 and 8 mm – for sleeves.
DROPS Buffalo horn buttons, dark no 536 – 25 mm, 6-6-6-7-7-7 pcs.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Snow print DROPS Snow print 2.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Measuring tip: Because of the weight of the yarn all measurements should be made whilst the garment is hanging, otherwise it will be too long when worn.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.
Garter st, in the round: K 1 round, P 1 round.
Pattern: See diagram M.1.
Buttonholes: Cast off for buttonholes on right front piece. 1 buttonhole = cast off 4th st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row.
Cast off for buttonholes when piece measures:
Size S: 17, 27, 37, 47, 57 and 67 cm.
Size M: 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 and 70 cm.
Size L: 23, 33, 43, 53, 63 and 73 cm.
Size XL: 16, 26, 36, 46, 56, 66 and 76 cm.
Size XXL: 18, 28, 38, 48, 58, 68 and 78 cm.
Size XXXL: 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70 and 80 cm.
Pleats: See diagram M.2 and M.3. The pleats are worked in the Pattern on the 3rd or 7th row of diagram M.1.
Increasing tip: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole.
Knitting tip: When turning mid piece, slip 1 st as if to K. Tighten thread and work return row (to avoid a hole).

Jacket: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 160-160-188-188-204-216 sts on circular needle size 8 mm. P 1 row, K 2 rounds. Work next row from WS as follows: 7 garter sts – see above – P 1, Pattern M.1 until 8 sts remain, and finish with P1, 7 garter sts (8 sts each side = front bands, work front bands in 7 garter sts and K1 from RS/ P1 from WS throughout). Continue in Pattern like this. Remember buttonholes – see above. See Measurement tip! When piece measures approx 39-40-41-42-42-42 cm (adjust so that next row is the 3rd or 7th row in Pattern) work Pleat on next row from WS – see above – as follows: work front band (8 sts), 2 sts in Pattern, then 2 repeats of M.2, 18-18-18-18-26-32 sts in Pattern, then M.3 1-1-2-2-2-2 times, 8-8-4-4-4-4 sts in Pattern, M.2 1-1-2-2-2-2 times, 18-18-18-18-26-32 sts in Pattern, then M.3 2 times, 2 sts in Pattern, and finish with front band (8 sts) = 112-112-124-124-140-152 sts. The Pleats now sit towards each other mid front and mid back. Change to circular needle size 7 mm and work 6 rows garter st on all sts, at the same time inc 0-8-4-16-12-16 sts evenly on last row = 112-120-128-140-152-168 sts. Insert a marking Thread (MT) 32-34-36-39-42-46 sts in from each side (back piece = 48-52-56-62-68-76 sts). Change to needle size 8 mm and continue in Pattern (M.1), with 8 front band sts each side. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-61-62 cm cast off 3 sts on each side of both MT for armhole and complete each piece separately.
Back piece: = 42-46-50-56-62-70 sts. Cast off to the shape the armhole each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 0-0-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 1-2-2-2-3-4 times = 40-42-42-44-44-46 sts. When piece measures 72-75-78-81-83-85 cm cast off the middle 14-14-14-16-16-16 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 12-13-13-13-13-14 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 74-77-80-83-85-87 cm.
Left front piece: = 29-31-33-36-39-43 sts. Cast off for armhole at side as described for back piece, at the same time continue in Pattern and garter st. When piece measures 69-72-75-78-80-82 cm cast off 10-10-10-11-11-11 sts towards mid front for neck. Cast off to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times = 12-13-13-13-13-14 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 74-77-80-83-85-87 cm.
Right front piece: Like left front piece, but mirrored. Continue to cast off for buttonholes.
Sleeve: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 48-48-48-52-52-52 sts on needle size 8 mm. Work 2 rows garter st – see above. Insert a Marking Thread (MT) at beg of round. Continue in Pattern (M.1). When piece measures 20 cm (adjust so that next row is the 3rd or 7th row in diagram M.1) work next round as follows: 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts in Pattern, then M.2 2 times, finish with 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts in Pattern = 32-32-32-36-36-36 sts. Change to needle size 7 mm and work 6 rounds garter st, at the same time dec 2 sts evenly on the last round = 30-30-30-34-34-34 sts. Change to needle size 8 mm and continue in Pattern with 1 P st on each side of MT. When piece measures 23 cm inc 1 st on both sides of the 2 P sts by MT and repeat the inc on every 6-4-3-3.5-2.5-2 cm a total of 4-6-7-6-8-9 times = 38-42-44-46-50-52 sts. See Increasing tip! Incorporate inc sts in Pattern as you go along (no of sts will not always fit the pattern). When piece measures 47-46-46-44-43-41 cm - less on the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders – cast off the 2 P sts and 2 sts on each side of these = 32-36-38-40-44-46 sts and now complete piece back and forth on needle. Cast off to shape the sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 2-4-4-5-7-8 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 55-55-56-56-57-57 cm, now cast off 3 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx 56-56-57-57-58-58 cm. Work the other sleeve with M.3 for Pleats. Sew shoulder seams.
Neckline: Pick up 56-56-56-58-58-58 sts from RS round neck with 1 thread Snow on circular needle size 8 mm. Change to needles size 7 mm and continue with 2 threads Snow as follows: K 1 row from WS and now work shortened rows as follows:
* K 1 row on 41-41-41-42-42-42 sts, turn the piece – see above – K 1 row on 26 sts for all sizes, turn piece, K 1 row on 41-41-41-42-42-42 sts, turn piece, K 1 row on all sts *, repeat from *-* until neckline measures 5 cm. Now work 4 rows garter st on all sts. Collar measures approx 7 cm (on the shorter side). Cast off.
Assembly: Set in sleeves. Sew on buttons.


Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 8 sts on cable needle in front of piece, work first st on cable needle tog with first st on needle a total of 8 times.
symbols = slip 8 sts on cable needle behind piece, work first st on needle tog with first st on cable needle a total of 8 times.

diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 109-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (131)

country flag Peggy 28.10.2020 - 15:41:

Hallo, also bei der Größe S habe ich 18 x Eskimo bestellt es reicht aber nicht, wäre schön wenn man bei Gr. S die Grammzahl erhöht

country flag Barbara Hirch 29.01.2020 - 15:23:

Meine Frage an Sie.Haben Sie eine Anleitung für ein Faltenstrick Kleid.Würde mich über eine Antwort freuen.Anleitung auch gerne von bezahlen.Mfg.Barbara Hirch

user icon DROPS Design 29.01.2020 kl. 15:57:

Liebe Frau Hirch, hier finden Sie alle unsere Modellen mit "Falten". Hoffentlich hilft es Ihnen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Kim 20.01.2019 - 16:33:

Thank you for all of your help. I am finished with my project and it looks great! Thank again, Kim

country flag Kim 12.01.2019 - 22:50:

Almost finished with this project and could not have done it without your help. I want to thank you so much. I need help with the neckline. You have 56 on needle but on knitting 41 on one row and 26 on rows, that doesn't equal the 56 stitches you picked up. I haven't done shortened rows before and need some guidance to get the collar done.

user icon DROPS Design 14.01.2019 kl. 10:44:

Dear Kim, you will work short rows over these 56 sts: work first the 41 first sts, turn and work 26 sts on next row, turn and work 41 sts, turn and work all 56 sts. Repeat these 4 rows (you'll have 15 sts, 26 sts, 15 sts = 56 sts). Happy knitting!

country flag Leycuras 08.01.2019 - 11:20:

OK. Mais les marqueurs se trouvent bien en dessous des emmanchures (plusieurs cm)

user icon DROPS Design 08.01.2019 kl. 11:50:

Bonjour Mme Leycuras, les marqueurs servent de repères entre les mailles (pas en hauteur), on va effectivement tricoter quelques cm avant de diviser l'ouvrage/rabattre les mailles des emmanchures. Bon tricot!

country flag Leycuras 08.01.2019 - 10:20:

Merci pour votre réponse, mais je ne comprends pas l'utilité des marqueurs à cet endroit Merci

user icon DROPS Design 08.01.2019 kl. 11:14:

Bonjour Mme Leycuras, ces marqueurs, à 32-34-36-39-42-46 m de chaque côté, servent de repères aux côtés de la veste = on a ainsi 48-52-56-62-68-76 m pour le dos entre les marqueurs. C'est à ces marqueurs que l'on va ensuite rabattre les mailles des emmanchures, soit 3 m avant et 3 m après chacun de ces marqueurs, avant de terminer chaque partie séparément. Bon tricot!

country flag LEYCURAS 07.01.2019 - 16:35:

Bonjour, je ne comprend pas, si après avoir positionne les marqueurs au dos,(après les 6 rgs de point mousse) il faut continuer sur les 124 m, ou faire dos et côtés séparément. Merci

user icon DROPS Design 08.01.2019 kl. 08:26:

Bonjour Mme Leycuras, au dernier des 6 rangs point mouisse, répartissez 4-16 augmentations (cf taille) puis placez un marqueur à 36-39 m des bords (repères côtés) et continuez avec l'aiguille 8 en suivant M.1 et avec 8 m de bordure devant de chaque côté. Vous divisez ensuite l'ouvrage à 58-60 cm en rabattant 3 m de chaque côté de chacun des marqueurs (= 6 m pour chaque emmanchure) et terminez maintenant chaque partie séparément. Bon tricot!

country flag Kim 26.12.2018 - 22:39:

I need to decrease sleeves to 20 inches. How do you recommend I accomplish this? I increased every 2 inches instead of 2 3/8. Will that work?

user icon DROPS Design 02.01.2019 kl. 10:05:

Dear Kim, you can also start to increase earlier and then repeat the increase as stated for the size. Happy knititng!

country flag Kim 15.12.2018 - 18:40:

Left front piece: bind off 10 sts towards mid front for neck? 29 stitches where are the 10 mid front , How many do you follow in the pattern to bind off ten. What is considered mid front for the neck. Tell me how many to knit and when to bind off within the 29 stitches

user icon DROPS Design 17.12.2018 kl. 09:46:

Dear Kim, on left front piece, the 10 sts for neck are the first 10 sts at the beg from WS: when piece measures 69-72-75 cm, bind off the first 10 sts at the beg of next row from WS, work row to end, then turn, work next row from RS, at the beg of next row from WS bind off 2 sts, etc. Happy knitting!

country flag Kim 14.12.2018 - 03:21:

I dont know if you got my other question about the odd number of stitches for the left and right front 29. the pattern M1 is an even number of stitches, what do I need to do? Please help.

user icon DROPS Design 14.12.2018 kl. 08:54:

Dear Kim, when working left front piece continue with the 8 front band sts as before, and work M.1 over the remaining sts starting from the first st in diagram and repeat M.1 a total of 2 times in width, then work the first 4 sts and finish with 1 edge stitch (for sleeve seams). Happy knitting!

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