Julianne by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket with lace pattern and raglan sleeve in “Muskat”. Size S – XXXL

DROPS 105-9
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL – XXXL

Materials: DROPS Muskat, from Garnstudio
colour no 04, lilac
450-500-550-600-650-700 g

DROPS circular needle (80 cm) size 4 mm - or size needed to obtain 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS circular needle (80 cm) and double pointed needles size 3 mm - or size needed to obtain 21 sts x 42 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS silver button, no 534, 5 pcs.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Cotton
from 1.85 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.85 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.65£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.
Garter st, in the round: K 1 round, P 1 round.

Pattern: See diagram M.1. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS side.

Buttonholes: Make buttonholes on right front piece. 1 buttonhole = cast off fourth st from mid front, cast on 1 new st on return row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
Size S: 37, 42, 47, 52 and 56 cm.
Size M: 38, 43, 48, 53 and 58 cm.
Size L: 39, 45, 50, 55 and 60 cm.
Size XL: 40, 46, 52, 57 and 62 cm.
Size XXL: 41, 47, 53, 59 and 64 cm.
Size XXXL: 42, 48, 54, 60 and 66 cm.

Knitting tip: If your knitting tension doesn’t fit vertically (i.e. too tight) the raglan will be too short and the armhole too small. You may compensate for this by working random rows without dec in between rows with dec.

Decreasing tip (applies to raglan):
Make all dec from RS!
Beg 2 sts before MT: K2 tog, MT, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

Back and front piece: Knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 225-250-275-300-325-350 sts (incl 8 front band sts each side) on circular needle size 4 mm and work 4 rows garter st. Work next row as follows from RS: 8 garter sts (front band), 9 stocking sts, *M.1 (=16 sts), 9 stocking sts*, repeat from *-* a total of 8-9-10-11-12-13 times and finish with 8 garter sts (front band). Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 8 cm dec 1 st in each stocking st section on every 6.5-7-7-7.5-8-8 cm a total of 4 times = 189-210-231-252-273-294 sts (dec at the beg and the end of section alternately by K tog the 2 first/last sts) When piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm change to circular needle 3 mm and work garter st on all sts until finished measurements. Remember buttonholes on right front band! Insert 2 MT in piece 51-57-62-67-72-78 sts in from each side (back piece = 87-96-107-118-129-138 sts). When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 and 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm inc 1 st on each side of both MT = 197-218-239-260-281-302 sts. When piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm cast off 8 sts each side for armhole (4 sts on each side of MT) = 181-202-223-244-265-286 sts. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 63-67-72-76-80-86 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm and work garter st until piece measures 4 cm. On next round cast off 8 sts mid under sleeve = 55-59-64-68-72-78 sts. Knit the other sleeve.

Yoke: See Knitting tip! Put sleeves in on circular needle where cast off for armholes = 291-320-351-380-409-442 sts. Insert a MT in all transitions between body piece and sleeves = 4 MT. Continue in garter st, at the same time dec for raglan – see Decreasing tip.
Dec on every other row 11-13-15-17-19-23 times and then on every 4th row 11-11-11-11-11-10 times = 115-128-143-156-169-178 sts. Work 1 row garter st, at the same time dec 9-15-26-35-42-49 sts evenly = 106-113-117-121-127-129 sts. Cast off.

Assembly: Sew openings under arms. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 29.02.2016
Sleeve: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 63-67-72-76-80-86 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm and work garter st until piece measures 4 cm. On next round cast off 8 sts mid under sleeve = 55-59-64-68-72-78 sts. Knit the other sleeve.


symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = 1 yo between 2 sts

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 105-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (56)

country flag Lena wrote:

Hej Jag förstår inte skissen. Jag stickar storlek M och sista knappen är vid 58 cm. Arbetet borde bli 59 cm. Varifrån kommer 3 cm högst på skissen?

15.07.2020 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lena, de sidste cm er hvis du måler ved selve raglanstykket op til skulderen. Hvis du hellere vil strikke 2 cm efter sidste knaphul, så gør du bare det. God fornøjelse!

30.07.2020 kl. 14:28

country flag Guilaine wrote:

Pardon pour la demande précédente peu claire. La question est : les diminutions indiquées dans la version Italienne et celle française diffèrent. Dans l'une on diminue d'abord 13 fois ts les 2 rgs puis 11 fois ts les 4rgs; dans l'autre c'est l'inverse avec un résultat total de mailles différent. Je voudrais savoir si cela a une importance et quelle est la version correcte? Merci.

01.06.2020 - 09:46

country flag Guilaine wrote:

Pardon mais les diminutions pour le raglan des manches n'est pas le même dans la version française : " dominer 13 fois ts les 2 rgs puis 11 fois ts les 4 rgs" et l'inverse dans la version française. De même est différent en le nombre de mailles restantes Quelle est la version correcte?? Merci

31.05.2020 - 18:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Guilaine et merci pour votre retour, les corrections ont été faites. Bon tricot!

02.06.2020 kl. 10:10

country flag Guilaine wrote:

Bonjour, les boutonnières d'1 m avec des aig n°3 ,ce n'est pas un peu trop petit ??

28.05.2020 - 15:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Guilaine, n'hésitez pas à ajuster la taille des boutonnières à celles de vos boutons. Essayez-en une sur votre échantillon afin de bien tester la texture et l'élasticité en même temps. Bon tricot!

28.05.2020 kl. 16:21

country flag Connie wrote:

The pattern does not indicate the number of centimeters or inches from the start of the garter stitches until the armholes are marked off. The armhole does not begin where the garter stitches begin according to the picture. There is a distance. I am an experienced knitter but am having a problem with this.

04.04.2020 - 17:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Connie, you start working garter stitch when body measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm [14.2’’-14½’’-15’’-15.2’’-15.7’’-16.1’’] (see "Back and front piece") - and sleeve edges are worked in garter stich - then you work yoke entirely in garter stitch - see finished measurements in chart (in cm). Hope this will help. Happy knitting!

09.04.2020 kl. 13:24

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

Hoi. Zoals beloofd; het pas wordt met 3 mm gebreid - net zoals de mouwen. Ik heb het patroon aangepast - en de breinaald zonder knop 4 mm weggehaald (is niet nodig). Excuses voor het ongemak :-)

01.03.2016 - 12:12

Knut wrote:

Norwegian (original): Bolen (pande?) rundp 3! ( Reihe 6)

17.02.2016 - 11:02

country flag Sarah wrote:

Volgens mij staat er in het orginele patroon dat je vanaf de ribbelsteek met naald 3 verder moet gaan. Ook staat er bij tip breien: dat je bij de raglan 42 naalden moet breien voor 10 cm. En dat is toch de stekenverhouding voor naald 3. groetjes Sarah

15.02.2016 - 20:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Sarah. Er staat in het origineel patroon dat je de mouwrand breit op rondbreinaald 3 mm. Daarna zet je de mouwen in op DEZELFDE breinaald als de panden (dat is dan nr. 4 mm). Maar ik vraag bij de zekerheid na bij ons Design team of de pas wel op 3mm gebreid moet worden. Komt er hier geen correctie van dan is het patroon correct.

16.02.2016 kl. 16:50

country flag Lena wrote:

Nadel 3 auch bei Achterpand... Reihe 8!

15.02.2016 - 15:30

country flag Sarah wrote:

Nergens in het patroon kan ik vinden waar je naalden nummer 3 moet gebruiken terwijl er wel aangegeven word dat je deze nodig hebt. Klopt het dat je die moet gaan gebruiken als je ribbelsteek gaat breien? En voor de mouwen ook? Groetjes Sarah

15.02.2016 - 08:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Sarah. Je hebt de 3 mm nodig voor de mouwrand. Het was een fout in de vertaling, die ik nu heb aangepast. Veel breiplezier.

15.02.2016 kl. 14:11

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