DROPS Baby / 3 / 17

Bunny Hugs by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket with textured pattern and shorts in “Safran”.

Tags: jackets, pants, shorts,
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 - 3 years)
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 (86/92 – 98/104)

Materials: DROPS Safran, from Garnstudio
150-200-200 (200-250) g colour no 17, white
100-100-100 (150-150) g colour no 2, pink

DROPS circular needle, pointed and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and 3 mm

Crochet hook size 2.5 mm (shorts)

DROPS wooden button, 5 pcs

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 0.70 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 0.70 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter st, back and forth on needle: Knit all rows.

Pattern: See diagram. The diagrams show the pattern from the RS.

Front and back piece:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 134-152-170 (182-188) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with white and work 2-2-3 (3-3) cm garter st. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in pattern with 7 sts each side towards mid front in garter st. At the same time, make buttonhole on right front piece when piece measures 2 cm and then make a further 4 buttonholes with approx 4.5-5-6.5 (7-7.5) cm between each. 1 buttonhole = cast off the middle 3 of the 7 garter sts and cast on 3 new sts on return row. Remember the knitting tension. When piece measures 16-18-21 (22-23) cm work next row as follows from the RS: 35-40-44 (47-49) sts = front piece, cast off 4 sts for armhole, 56-64-74 (80-82) sts = back piece, cast off 4 sts for armhole, 35-40-44 (47-49) sts = front piece. Now complete front and back pieces separately.

Left front piece: = 35-40-44 (47-49) sts. Dec to shape the armhole on every other row as follows: 1 st 2-4-4 (3-3) times = 33-36-40 (44-46) sts. When piece measures 24-27-31 (33-36) cm cast off to shape the neckline on every other row: 14-15-17 (18-19) sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 28-31-35 (37-40) cm.

Right front piece: like left front piece.

Back piece: = 56-64-74 (80-82) sts. Dec for armhole on every other row: 1 st 2-3-4 (3-2) times = 52-58-66 (74-78) sts. When piece measures 26-29-33 (35-38) cm cast off the middle 24-26-30 (32-36) sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on next row. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 28-31-35 (37-40) cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 36-38-40 (42-42) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with white and work 2-2-3 (3-3) cm garter st. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in pattern, at the same time inc 0-4-8 (10-10) sts evenly on first round = 36-42-48 (52-52) sts. Now inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 11-10-10 (10-15) times as follows:
Size 3 months: on every 4th round
Size 6/9 + 12/18 months: on every 5th round
Size 2 years: on every 6th round
Size 3 years: on every 4th and 5th round alternately
= 58-62-68 (72-82) sts – incorporate new sts in pattern as you go along. When piece measures 16-20-22 (24-27) cm cast off 6 sts mid under arm and complete sleeve back and forth on needle. Cast off to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 5 sts 2-3-3 (3-3) times. Cast off when sleeve measures 18-22-24 (26-29) cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up 70-80 sts round the neck on needle size 2.5 mm with white and work 1.5 cm garter st, cast off. Set in sleeves and sew on buttons.

Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 – 3) years

DROPS circular needle and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and 3 mm
Crochet hook size 2.5 mm

Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Moss st: first row *K1, P1*, second row P over K and K over P. Repeat second row.

Right leg: Cast on 58-62-62 (68-68) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with pink Safran and work 2 cm moss st. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and continue in stocking st, at the same time inc 20-22-22 (22-22) sts evenly on first round = 78-84-84 (90-90) sts. When piece measures 4-5-6 (7-8) cm divide piece at inside leg (= split) and complete piece back and forth on needle. Inc 1 st each side for seam = 80-86-86 (92-92) sts. When piece measures 6-7-8 (9-10) cm cast off 4 sts each side = 72-78-78 (84-84) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other leg.

Left leg: like right leg.

Trousers: Put both legs in on the same circular needle = 144-156-156 (168-168) sts, at the same time inc 1 st in the last st on each leg = 146-158-158 (170-170) sts. Now inc mid back on both sides of the middle 2 sts on every 3rd round: 1 st 3 times, at the same time dec mid front on every 3rd round on both sides of the middle 2 sts: 1 st 4 times – dec as follows: K2 tog into back of st, K2 middle sts, K2 tog = 144-156-156 (168-168) sts. When piece measures 23-26-29 (31-32) cm change to needle size 2.5 mm, at the same time dec 14-16-16 (18-18) sts evenly = 130-140-140 (150-150) sts. Work 3 cm stocking st, P 1 round = folding edge, and work 3 cm stocking st, cast off. Fold edge double towards WS and fasten, leave an opening and pull through a ribbon.

Assembly: Sew tog split between legs.
Crochet a border around both legs on crochet hook size 2.5 mm as follows: 1 dc, *3 ch, 1 dc in first ch, skip 1 st, 1 dc*, repeat from *-*.


= K
= P

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 3-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (35)

LISOIR 22.04.2020 - 16:21:

Pour tricoter les manches, je ne comprends pas si il faut tricoter en rond ou bien en aller retour. Je ne comprends pas quand vous dites d'augmenter 2 m sous la manche...

DROPS Design 22.04.2020 kl. 16:37:

Bonjour Mme Lisoir, les manches se tricotent en rond sur les aiguilles doubles pointes. Augmentez 2 mailles au milieu sous la manche permet d'élargir la manche, procédez ainsi: tricotez le tour jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 1 maille avant la fin du tour, augmentez 1 maille, tricotez 2 mailles (le début du tour se trouve entre ces 2 mailles), augmentez 1 maille. Bon tricot!

JpJt 24.09.2019 - 11:26:

Rebonjour et merci pour votre réponse. Seulement je n'ai pas tricoté en rond parce que ça n'est pas indiqué, je vais donc suivre votre conseil et tricoter en rond. Ensuite à 5cm de hauteur totale je vais tricoter en rang "augmenter1 maille pour la couture, tourner et tricoter le rang suivant sur l'envers, augmenter 1 maille pour la couture, tourner et continuer ainsi en rangs sur toutes les mailles" OK mais ensuite après ça je continue en rond ou en rang?

DROPS Design 24.09.2019 kl. 13:45:

Bonjour JpJt, après avoir monté 1 maille de chaque côté, au début et à la fin du 1er rang, vous continuez en rangs = en allers et retours. Quand le short sera terminé, vous pourrez faire la couture à 1 m lisière des bords (la partie tricotée en allers et retours). Bon tricot!

JpJt 24.09.2019 - 09:33:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas comment faire "diviser l'ouvrage à l'intérieur de la jambe et terminer en allers retours"? Que faut'il faire? merci pour votre réponse. Jpjt

DROPS Design 24.09.2019 kl. 10:55:

Bonjour JpJt, à la hauteur indiquée, vous ne tricotez plus en rond mais en rangs, quand vous arrivez à la fin du tour, au lieu de continuer le tour suivant, augmenter 1 maille pour la couture, tournez et tricotez le rang suivant sur l'envers, augmentez 1 maille pour la couture, tournez et continuez ainsi en rangs sur toutes les mailles. Bon tricot!

Elin Svendsen 27.03.2019 - 22:46:

Ved ve forstykke er der 33 masker efter der er lukket til ærme, men mønsteret er 6 masker og det går ikke op i 33 Hvad gør jeg???

DROPS Design 04.04.2019 kl. 15:05:

Hei Elin. Ja det stemmer at mønsteret ikke går opp i hele rapporter etter avfelling til ermer. Du strikker da 5 hele rapporter og så de første 3 maskene av neste rapport = 33 masker. De 7 kantmaskene strikkes i rille/rettstrikkning som vanlig. God fornøyelse

Hanne Thomsen 21.01.2019 - 20:21:

Vil høre hvorfor der står Dops marine jakke i opskrift Drops baby 3-17 når jakken på billedet er hvid. På forhånd tak for hjælpen

DROPS Design 25.01.2019 kl. 08:33:

Hei Hanne. Det er nok bare blitt navnet på jakken og refererer ikke til fargen. Om du ser på materialer ser du det er oppgitt riktig garn og farge der. God fornøyelse

Michelle Nivison 29.11.2018 - 18:15:

Hi Please can you advise if the pattern diagram shows only the right side, in which case, is the wrong is side knitted in perl or knit stitch.

DROPS Design 30.11.2018 kl. 08:07:

Dear Mrs Nivison, diagram is showing all rows seen from RS, ie both RS and WS rows. Start reading diagram from the bottom corner on the right side and read every RS row from the right towards the left and every WS row from the left towards the right. Happy knitting!

Sivan 16.04.2018 - 19:57:

Hejsan, förstår inte riktigt hur jag ska göra. Det står att mönstret är från rätsidan, hur gör jag då på avigsidan? stickar jag ett varv avigt eller? Snälla hjälp mig

DROPS Design 17.04.2018 kl. 10:08:

Hei Sivan. Ja det stemmer; mønsteret ses fra retten, så når du strikker frem og tilbake strikker du vrang fra vrangsiden = rett, sett fra retten. God fornøyelse

Sisko 14.09.2017 - 13:38:

Epäselvästi on kerrottu mallineuleen/kaavion kohta. Eli siinähän pitää nurjalla neuloa nurin? ja vain oikealla puolen seurata kaaviota?

Dinah 13.06.2017 - 15:12:

Liebes Drops-Team, gehört eventuell eine Hose zu der Jacke? Unten ist ein Schnittmuster aufgeführt, aber es ist keine Anleitung dazu zu finden. Da die Jacke im Verhältnis zu anderen Modellen etwas größer ausfällt, wäre eine passende Hose dazu zu finden umständlicher.

DROPS Design 28.06.2017 kl. 10:10:

Liebe Dinah, die Anleitung der Hose ist jetzt online. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Jytte Anderse 05.08.2015 - 16:27:

Hej. Mange tak for hurtigt svar. Har tidligere prøvet med 12 masker, det virkede ikke:) Men det du skriver er at retpindene strikkes fra højre mod venstre, og vrang pinden strikkes fra venstre til højre. Det var jeg ikke klar over.

DROPS Design 06.08.2015 kl. 08:23:

Ja prøv det og så virker det :)

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