DROPS / 107 / 3

Elaia by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket, knitted in different directions in garter st in “Fabel”. Size S – XXXL

Tags: jackets, sideways,
  • Elaia / DROPS 107-3 - DROPS jacket, knitted in different directions in garter st in “Fabel”. Size S – XXXL
  • Elaia / DROPS 107-3 - DROPS jacket, knitted in different directions in garter st in “Fabel”. Size S – XXXL
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL – XXXL

Materials: DROPS Fabel, from Garnstudio
colour no 904, lavender mix
400-450-450-500-550-600 g

DROPS circular needle size 3 mm (80 cm) - or size needed to obtain 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS crochet hook size 3.5 mm – for borders
DROPS Silver button, no 534: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pcs

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows

Buttonholes: Make buttonholes on right front piece. 1 buttonhole = cast off 4th st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row.
Cast off for buttonholes when right front piece measures (measured from where sts were picked up):
Size S: 1, 6, 10, 15 and 19 cm.
Size M: 1, 6, 11, 16 and 21 cm.
Size L: 1, 6, 11, 16 and 21 cm.
Size XL: 1, 5, 10, 14, 19 and 23 cm.
Size XXL: 1, 5, 10, 14, 19 and 23 cm.
Size XXXL: 1, 6, 11, 16, 21 and 25 cm.

The jacket is knitted in different directions. The arrows in diagram show the different knitting directions.

Bottom part: Knitted back and forth on circular needle. The entire jacket is worked in garter st, e.i. K all rows. Cast on 67 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with Fabel. Work all sts back and forth on needle in garter st until piece measures 23-25-27-29-32-35 cm. Remember the knitting tension! Now work shortened rows as follows:
Work 20 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 30 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 40 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 50 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 60 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work all sts on row, insert a Marking Thread (MT) in the last st (marks the side), turn piece and work return row
Work 60 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 50 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 40 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 30 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 20 sts, turn piece and work return row
Continue back and forth on all sts. When piece measures 42-46-50-54-60-66 cm from MT work shortened rows again as described above. Continue on all sts until piece measures 23-25-27-29-32-35 cm from MT-2 and cast off loosely. The piece measures approx 88-96-104-112-124-136 cm at one side and 97-105-113-121-133-145 cm at the other.

Back piece: From the RS pick up 1 st in each garter st on back piece, i.e. between the two MT. On next row adjust number of sts to 96-106-116-128-142-156. Work garter st back and forth on needle, at the same time inc 1 st each side (edge st) = 98-108-118-130-144-158 sts. Continue until piece measures 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm from where sts were picked up, and now cast on 10-10-10-7-7-7 new sts each side for sleeve. Then cast on new sts for sleeve each side on every other row: 4-3-3-3-2-2 sts 12-15-15-17-17-19 times and 15-15-11-3-14-5 sts 1 time = 244-248-250-252-254-258 sts. Work all sts back and forth on needle until piece measures 30-32-34-36-38-40 cm. Now cast off the middle 36-38-40-40-42-46 sts for neck and dec 1 st each side towards neckline on next row = 103-104-104-105-105-105 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off loosely when piece measures 32-34-36-38-40-42 cm from where sts were picked up for back piece, width of sleeve at sleeve edge = approx 14-14-15-15-16-16 cm.

Left front piece: From the RS pick up 1 st in each garter st on left front piece, i.e. from MT at side towards mid front. Work garter st back and forth on needle, at the same time inc 1 st each side (edge st) = 56-62-66-72-80-87 sts. Continue until piece measures 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm from where sts were picked up, and now cast on sts for sleeve as described for back piece = 129-132-132-133-135-137 sts. Work all sts back and forth on needle until piece measures 20-22-22-24-24-26 cm. Now cast off 18-18-18-18-20-22 sts towards mid front for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 4-5-5-5-5-5 times = 103-104-104-105-105-105 sts left on shoulder. Cast off loosely when piece measures 32-34-36-38-40-42 cm from where sts were picked up, make sure that width of sleeve at sleeve edge = measurements on back piece.

Right front piece: Worked like left front piece, but mirrored. NB! Remember buttonholes – see explanation above.

Assembly: Sew shoulder/upper sleeve seam, sew in edge sts to avoid a chunky seam.
Neckline: From RS pick up 100-140 sts on needle size 3 mm with Fabel. Work 6 rows garter st and cast off loosely.
Cuffs: Pick up 1 st in each garter st along bottom edge of sleeve. On next row adjust number of sts to 68-68-72-72-78-78. Work garter st back and forth on needle and cast off loosely when cuff measures 17-18-18-19-19-19 cm (or desired length).
Assembly: Sew side seams, under arm and cuff seams in one, inside 1 edge st.
Sew on buttons 1 cm from edge on left front piece to fit buttonholes on right front piece.

Crochet border: Beg mid back and crochet a border on crochet hook size 3.5 mm with Fabel round the neck, down along left front piece, along bottom edge, up along right front piece and round the other half of neck as follows: 1 dc, *3 ch, skip approx 1 cm, 1 dc*, repeat from *-*. Finish round with a sl st in first dc from beg of round. Crochet a similar border round cuffs at sleeve edges.

Diagram

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 107-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (100)

country flag Estela 29.10.2019 - 00:04:

Hola quisiera saber cómo se hacen las vueltas acortadas para que no se forme un orificio o agujero? Gracias

user icon DROPS Design 17.11.2019 kl. 19:45:

Hola Estela. En este línk puedes encontrar varios vídeos explicativos sobre cómo trabajar las filas/vueltas acortadas: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?action=search&w=vueltas+cortas&c=0&uc=0&k=0&page=2&sort=default&lang=es

country flag Kathy Gallant 21.08.2019 - 20:50:

When doing increase for sleeves on arm side it says to increase as back. pattern says you should have 132 stitches how can this be. you start with 62 stiches then increase 10 on each side and then 3 on each side 15 times and then 15 on each side. so that is 20+90 +30 +62=202. How do you get 132 stitches?

user icon DROPS Design 22.08.2019 kl. 09:38:

Dear Mrs Gallant, on back piece you cast on the new stitches on each side for both sleeves while on each front piece you will increase for sleeve only one one side, ie 10 sts 1 time + 3 sts 15 times + 15 sts 1 time = 10+45+15= 70sts + 62 sts = 132sts. Happy knitting!

country flag Kathleen Pleasants 24.06.2019 - 09:55:

I am a beginner so apologies if this is a silly question! The instructions for the back say: 'Then cast on new sts for sleeve each side on every other row: 4-3-3-3-2-2 sts 12-15-15-17-17-19 times and 15-15-11-3-14-5 sts 1 time = 244-248-250-252-254-258 sts.' My question is, should it be: 15-15-11-13-14-15 sts 1 time? Thank you.

user icon DROPS Design 24.06.2019 kl. 11:01:

Dear Mrs Pleasants, the last cast on will be depending on the size 15 sts in the first, 2nd and last sti, 11 sts in the 3rd size, a4 sts in the 4th size and 14 sts in the 5th size. Happy knitting!

country flag Françoise Reix 27.04.2019 - 12:25:

Bonjour, j'ai tricotée les 27 cm au point mousse, mais ensuite je ne comprend pas comment on fait les rangs raccourcis. Si vous pouviez m'aiguiller. Merci à vous

user icon DROPS Design 29.04.2019 kl. 08:47:

Bonjour Mme Reix, suivez attentivement les explications pas à pas: au rang suivant, tricotez les 20 premières mailles seulement, tournez et tricotez le rang retour, tournez et tricotez les 30 premières mailles seulement, tournez et tricotez le rang retour, continuez comme expliqué jusqu'à ce que vous ayez tricoté 2 rangs sur les 60 premières mailles. Tricotez ensuite 1 rang sur toutes les mailles et tricotez maintenant les rangs raccourcis de l'autre côté: 2 rangs sur les 60 premières mailles, 2 rangs sur les 50 premières mailles et ainsi de suite (n'oubliez pas les marqueurs). Bon tricot!

country flag Katharina Haber 07.07.2018 - 08:26:

Beim Unterteil sowie Rückenteil wird plötzlich von zwei Markierungsfäden gesprochen. In der anleitung wird nur angegeben, 1 Markierungfaden. Wo also genau gehören die beiden Markierungen hin? Danke für die Hilfe

user icon DROPS Design 09.07.2018 kl. 07:50:

Liebe Katharina Haber, diese Markierungsfäden haben Sie, bei den verkürtzten Reihen eingesetzt: nach den 2 Reihen über die 60 M für den 1. Markierer und genauso für den 2. in der Mitte den verküzten Reihen (= nach 60) nach 42-66 cm von 1. Markierr gemessen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Begoña 09.01.2018 - 08:00:

No entiendo cuando dice insertar un mp en el último punto ( para marcar el lado. Me lo podrias explicar. Gracias por todos los patrones. un saludo.

user icon DROPS Design 13.01.2018 kl. 20:38:

Hola Begoña, quiere decir que insertamos un marcapuntos en el último punto para saber donde se encuentra el lado y tenerlo como referencia posteriormente para evitar confusiones y errores.

country flag Antonia Merz-Wieser 15.12.2017 - 23:09:

Hallo Bei der Maschenproben steht 24 M x 48 R. Müsste das nicht 24 x 28 heissen? Beim Rückenteil steht: für den Ärmel aufnehmen ... 15-15-11-3-14-5 M. 1 Mal. Wie ist das zu verstehen? Im Voraus herzlichen Dank für Ihr Antwort.

user icon DROPS Design 18.12.2017 kl. 08:11:

Liebe Frau Merz-Wieser, die Maschenprobe stimmt, sie muß mit krausrippen gestrickt: 48 Reihe kraus rechts = 24 Rippen. Für die Ärmel schlagen Sie neuen Maschen am Ende der Reihe, dh beim Rückenteil am Ende jeder Hin- sowie Rückreihe, beim Vorderteil auf einer Seite. Das Video unten zeigt wie man neuen Maschen am Ende einer Reihe anschlägt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Trish 23.08.2017 - 18:10:

In the instructions for the back piece it says to "cast off when piece measures (for my size) 34 cm from where sts were picked up for back piece, width of sleeve = approx 14 cm". My sleeve width is measuring 25 cm!! Is the 34 cm correct? I have knitted the left front and when the sleeve width measures 14 cm the front piece armpit to top of shoulder measures 24 cm. This looks correct and I am wondering if there was a typo with the numbers for the back piece?

user icon DROPS Design 28.08.2017 kl. 12:43:

Dear Mrs Trish, in 2nd size, you are casting on new sts for sleeve when piece measures 13 cm from picked up sts and cast off for shoulder/sleeve when piece measures 34 cm from picked up sts = you should have 21 cm for sleeve towards armhole and 14 cm for sleeve towards sleeve edge - see also measurement chart. Happy knitting!

country flag Lydia 21.05.2017 - 20:06:

Hallo, ich würde diese Jacke gerne mit 2 verschiedenen Farben des Garnes stricken, immer jeweils 2 Reihen im Wechsel. Ist das machbar? Oder bekomme ich dann Probleme bei den verkürzten Reihen? Bin leider noch relativ unerfahren... Liebe Grüße, Lydia

country flag Miriam Palmer 01.02.2017 - 19:07:

Do I complete right sleeve before doing left front piece. There are no instructions on how to do right after center bind off...Thanks

user icon DROPS Design 02.02.2017 kl. 10:04:

Dear Mrs Palmer, you first work left front piece picking up sts from bottom edge, then cast on new sts on the side for sleeves, cast off for neck and then cast off remaining sts for shoulder. Work then right front piece the same way, ie picking up sts from bottom edge, cast on new sts for sleeve and cast off sts for neck then cast off remaining sts. Sew shoulder seam and pick up sts along sleeve edge to work cuff. Happy knitting!

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