DROPS / 100 / 8

Love Notes by DROPS Design

DROPS tunic in moss stitch in Cotton Viscose and Alpaca or only Alpaca.

Size: S – M – L – XL -XXL
Materials: Drops Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
350-400-400-450-500 g colour no 01, white
and use: Drops Alpaca from Garnstudio
200-250-250-300-300 g colour no 1101, white

Or use only Alpaca:
Drops Alpaca from Garnstudio
400-500-500-600-600 g colour no 1101, white

Drops circular needle size 6 mm or size needed to obtain the correct knitting tension

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
DROPS Cotton Viscose DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
find alternatives

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 15 sts x 19 rows on needles size 6 mm with 1 thread of each quality (double thread)/ or two threads Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter st, back and forth on needle: Knit all rows.

Moss st: 1st row: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*. 2nd row: P over K, K over P. Repeat 2nd row.

Increasing tip (apply to section in moss st): Inc no of sts in moss st section by incorporating stocking sts in moss st pattern. Number of sts on row will remain the same.

With use Cotton Viscose and Alpaca:
Measuring tip: Because of the weight of the yarn, make all measurements whilst the garment is hanging.


Back piece: Read Measuring tip! Cast on 63-69-75-83-93 sts on needle size 6 mm with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Cotton Viscose (double thread)or 2 threads Alpaca and knit 4 rows garter st. Continue in stocking st with 3 sts each side in moss st – see explanation above. When piece measures 15 cm cast on 1 new st each side (seam st) = 65-71-77-85-95 sts and continue in stocking st on all sts. When piece measures 18-19-20-21-22 cm cast off 1 st each side on every 5 cm a total of 3 times = 59-65-71-79-89 sts. When piece measures 34-35-36-37-38 and 39-40-41-42-43 cm inc 1 st each side = 63-69-75-83-93 sts. When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51 cm cast off for armhole each side on every other row: 3 sts 0-0-1-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-2-1-2-3 times and 1 st 2-2-3-4-6 times = 55-57-59-61-63 sts. When piece measures 62-64-66-68-70 cm knit 2 cm moss st on the middle 43-43-43-45-47 sts (remaining sts in stocking st). Now cast off the middle 23-23-23-25-27 sts for neck = 16-17-18-18-18 sts left on each shoulder. Continue in stocking st with 10 sts in moss st towards neckline and cast off when piece measures 66-68-70-72-74 cm.

Front piece: Cast on and knit as back piece until piece measures 27-28-29-30-31 cm. Continue dec at sides, at the same time knit the middle st in moss st (remaining sts in stocking st) and inc number of sts in moss st section on every row as follows – see Increasing tip: 1 st on each side of the middle st until there are 21 sts in moss st mid front. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37 cm cast off the middle st. Put sts on one side on a thread or a stitch holder and finish each side separately.

Read the whole following section before knitting it!

Side-1: Continue in stocking st with 10 sts in moss st towards mid front. At the same time inc at side as described for back piece = 31-34-37-41-46 sts. When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51 cm cast off for armhole as described for back piece. At the same time when piece measures 48-50-52-52-54 cm inc number of sts in moss st section on every other row as follows – see Increasing tip: 5 sts 1 time, 1 st 6-6-6-6-8 times. At the same time when piece measures 54-56-58-58-60 cm dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 8 sts 1 time, 1 st 3-3-3-4-5 times = 16-17-18-18-18 sts left on shoulder. Continue in stocking st with 10 sts in moss st towards neckline until piece measures 66-68-70-72-74 cm. Cast off.

Side-2: Put sts from thread back on needle and knit as Side-1, but mirrored. Note! Beg mid front, and to avoid a “notch” pick up a st (the cast off st mid front) and knit this tog with first st on row.

Sleeve: Cast on 40-42-42-44-46 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 6 mm with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Cotton Viscose (double thread) or 2 threads Alpaca and knit 12 cm moss st - see explanation above. Continue in stocking st. When piece measures 15 cm inc 1 st each side on every 6-5-4-3-2.5 cm a total of 5-6-7-8-10 times = 50-54-56-60-66 sts. When piece measures 43-42-42-41-40 cm cast off for sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 0-1-2-3-2 times and then 2 sts each side until piece measures 49-49-50-50-50 cm. Now cast off 3 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts, piece measures 50-50-51-51-51 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves and sew sleeve and side seams down to the slit.

Ribbon: Cut 4 threads of Cotton Viscose or Alpaca, measuring approx 300 cm each. Twist them until they resist and fold them double. Tie a knot each end approx 5 cm from the end of ribbon. Pull ribbon through neckline. Make a tassel for each end of the ribbon as follows: Cut 20 threads of Cotton Viscose or Alpaca measuring 25 cm each. Divide the ribbon just above the knot and pull the threads through. Tie them tog and wind one of the threads round the top of tassel to keep it in place. Cut and sew the thread end.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 100-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (33)

Laura McMullen 15.04.2019 - 01:50:

HELP! I love this pattern but cannot determine what weight yarn to use from the listed yarns. It would appear to be a bulky yarn if it uses size 10 US needles and 2 yarns. I would like it as a summer top in cotton but don't know what weight yarn to use. And it might be too heavy using 2 strands. Thank you.

DROPS Design 15.04.2019 kl. 21:26:

Dear Laura, the pattern uses DROPS Alpaca, and DROPS Cotton Viscose (discontinued). Both yarns are sport / sock weight yarns, belonging to the yarn group A. You can substitute either yarn from other yarns from this yar group. Also you can use the yarn converter on out site. But please always knit a swatch, check your gauge, stitch counts and calculate changes accodingly. Happy Knitting!

Sabine 12.04.2018 - 14:55:

Hallo liebes Drops Team, vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort. Ich verstehe nur leider immer noch nicht was genau bei jeder 2.ten Reihe für das Armloch abketten bedeutet. Ich habe nun die ersten abnahmen (3 Maschen am Anfang der Hinreihe und ebenso 3 Maschen am Anfang der Rückreihe) gemacht. Muss ich jetzt gleich wieder in der folgenden Hinreihe abnehmen oder stricke ich eine Hin und eine Rückreihe ohne abnahmen dazwischen und dann erst wieder die nächsten abnahmen?

DROPS Design 12.04.2018 kl. 15:29:

Liebe Sabine, je nach der Größe sollen Sie jetzt am Anfang jeder Reihe (= Hin sowie Rückreihen): 2 M. 1-2-1-2-3 Mal und 1 M. 2-2-3-4-6 Mal abketten. Z. B in der 1. Größe werden jetzt 2 M am Anfang beider nächsten Reihen und dann 1 M am Anfang jeder 4 nächsten Reihen (= 2 M auf beiden Seiten) abgkettet. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sabine 12.04.2018 - 14:25:

Nach 47-48-49-50-51 cm, auf beiden Seiten, bei jeder 2. R. für das Armloch abk. Wie muss ich das - bei jeder 2. R. für das Armloch abk. - verstehen, ich kette ja jeweils am Anfang der Reihe ab, also am Anfang der Hinreihe und am Anfang der Rückreihe. Muss ich danach eine Hin- und Rückreihe ohne Abnahmen stricken oder gleich bei der nächsten Hinreihe wieder abketten?

DROPS Design 12.04.2018 kl. 14:32:

Liebe Sabine, beim Rückenteil sollen Sie die Maschen für das Armloch am Anfang jeder Reihe abketten, dh bei der Hin- sowie der Rückreihe: 3 M am Anfang beide Reihen. Die abgeketteten Maschenanzahl muss die gleiche am Anfang jeder Reihe sein (= auf beiden Seiten). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Vittoria 11.04.2018 - 14:02:

Grazie per la rapida risposta. Ora mi è più chiaro come procedere. Cordiali saluti Vittoria

Vittoria De Pascale 11.04.2018 - 08:58:

Buongiorno non riesco a capire bene le diminuzioni per lo scalfo. Sto facendo il dietro e si intende intrecciare 3 maglie al 1 giro, 0 maglie al 2 e 3 giro e, 1 maglia al 4 e 5 giro per una volta e poi proseguire con lo stesso principio con le altre indicazioni? GRazie e cordiali saluti Vittoria

DROPS Design 11.04.2018 kl. 09:41:

Buongiorno Vittoria. Diminuisce per lo scalfo in questo modo: p.es per la taglia L: intreccia, da ciascun lato del dietro, all’inizio del ferro: 3 m 1 volta, 2 maglie 1 volta e 1 maglia 3 volte. Quindi ferro 1 (diritto del lavoro) intreccia le prime 3 m; f 2 (rovescio del lavoro) intreccia le prime 3 m; ferri 3 e 4 intreccia le prime 2 maglie e così via. Nelle taglie S e M, intreccia 2 m 1 volta nella taglia S (2 volte nella taglia M) e poi 1 m 2 volte. Buon lavoro!

Gaelle 07.01.2017 - 20:55:

Bonjour, j'ai un souci pour l'augmentation des mailles au point de riz. J'ai commencé sur un rang end, j'ai fait la maille du milieu à l'env, puis le rang suivant tout à l'env. Vous dites qu'il faut faire le 3ème rang de la sorte : 1m env, 1m end, 1 m env etc. mais en faisant cela ça ne fait pas un vrai point de riz. ne vaut il pas mieux augmenter à chaque rang ? en plus, je n'aurais pas les 21 mailles au point de riz avant de rabattre la maille centrale. Merci

DROPS Design 09.01.2017 kl. 09:17:

Bonjour Gaelle, vous tricotez ces mailles au point de riz mais augmentez 2 m point de riz tous les 2 rangs, soit au 1er rang, vous aurez 1 m env, au 2ème rang, 1 m end, au 3ème rang 1 m env, 1 m end, 1 m env, au 4ème rang, 1 m end, 1 m env, 1 m end, au 5ème rang, 1 m env, 1 m end, 1 m env, 1 m end, 1 m env et ainsi de suite jusqu'à ce que vous ayez 21 m point de riz. Bon tricot!

Tatiana 03.11.2015 - 00:00:

Je ne comprend pas comment augmenter le point de riz sur le devant J'ai tricoté la maille du milieu sur le devant à l'envers, le rang suivant j'ai tout fait à l'envers, le rang suivant je fais comment? Merci pour votre aide

DROPS Design 03.11.2015 kl. 09:44:

Bonjour Tatiana, vous allez tricoter tous les 2 rangs 1 m point de riz en plus de chaque côté de cette m env, donc au rang 1, on a 1 m env (sur l'endroit), au rang 3, tricotez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 1 m avant cette m, et tricotez 1 m env, 1 m end (la m centrale de la pointe), 1 m env. Continuez ainsi en tricotant 1 m point de riz en plus tous les rangs sur l'endroit jusqu'à ce que vous ayez 21 m point de riz (= 10 m point de riz, 1 m centrale (= la pointe), 10 m point de riz). Bon tricot!

Claudia 05.07.2015 - 20:44:

In ihrer Anleitung schreiben Sie, das man nach 48cm beidseitig Maschen für den Armausschnitt vornehmen soll und zwar bei der Größe M insgesamt 8M bei einer Maschenanzahl von 69M. Da ergibt sich für mich eine Maschenzahl von 61M und nicht wie angegeben 57M Weiterhin kann die Angabe von, Armausschnitt in 48 cm nicht stimmen, da in der Skizze diese mit 68cm (Größe M) angegeben wird und die Halsöffnung (mit 66cm?) die laut Skizze vor dem Armausschnitt erfolgen muss???????????

DROPS Design 06.07.2015 kl. 11:05:

Sie nehmen bei Größe M nicht 8 M ab, sondern insgesamt 12 M, d.h. beidseitig je 6 M: 2 M bedseitig je 2 x (= 8 M insgesamt) und 1 M beidseitig je 2 x (= 4 M insgesamt). Dann passt das mit 57 M. Die 68 cm sind die Gesamthöhe, nicht die Höhe für die Armausschnitte. Wenn Sie diese ermitteln möchten, müssen Sie 68 cm minus Armausschnitthöhe rechnen, also 20 cm, 68 cm - 20 cm = 48 cm, das stimmt dann also mit der Anleitung überein.

Titili 24.05.2014 - 19:40:

Bonjour. Il y a une petite erreur je pense dans les explications de la version française. L'échantillon doit être réalisé avec des aiguilles n°6 alors que l'on demande des n°5 pour l'ouvrage... Merci d'harmoniser les tailles s'il y a effectivement une erreur de frappe ^^

DROPS Design 26.05.2014 kl. 10:03:

Bonjour Titili, il s'agissait effectivement d'une faute de frappe (corrigée), la tunique se réalise bien avec des aiguilles 6 ou la taille nécessaire pour avoir 15 m x 19 rangs = 10 x 10 cm. Bon tricot!

Belinda Christ 18.02.2013 - 10:51:

Liebes Drops-Team, habe eine Frage zum Modell 100-8. Mir ist nicht klar, ob das gesamte Teil im Perlmuster gestrickt wird oder glatt mit jeweils 3 M Perlmuster am Reihenanfang und -ende? Beim Rückenteil fehlt die cm-Angabe (15 cm) wann die erste Masche zugenommen wird. Was heißt: "die 10M. gegen die Mitte in Perlmuster stricken". Bedeutet das "die mittleren 10M im Perlmuster stricken? Danke für Ihre Hilfe. Mit freundlichen Grüßen Belinda Christ

DROPS Design 19.02.2013 kl. 09:43:

Liebe Belinda, das Perlmuster wird nur im oberen Bereich gestrickt, die 3 M unten sind kraus re gestrickt Die Angaben wann wie viele M im Perlmuster gestrickt werden (ist am Rücken und Vorderteil unterschiedlich) finden Sie genau in der Anleitung. Die Angabe der 15 cm werden wir gleich ergänzen, das hat unsere Übersetzerin leider übersehen. Und die 10 M zur Mitte sind nicht die mittleren 10 M, es sind die 10 M am Rand zum Halsausschnitt und nicht zum Ärmel.

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