DROPS Baby / 2 / 5

Le Petit Explorateur by DROPS Design

DROPS jumper with boat motif, shorts and beret in “Safran”.

Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 - 24 months

Materials: DROPS Safran, from Garnstudio
The whole set:
150-150-200-200 g colour no 09, navy blue
100-100-100-150 g colour no 17, white
100-100-150-150 g colour no 4, green

Jumper only:
100-100-150-150 g colour no 4, green
50-50-50-100 g colour no 17, white
50-50-50-50 g colour no 9, navy blue

Shorts only:
100-150-150-200 g colour no 9, navy blue
+ a remnant green

Hat only:
50-50-50-50 g colour no 17, white
+ a remnant navy blue

DROPS circular needle and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and 3 mm
DROPS button, 2 pcs

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 0.70 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 0.70 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JUMPER:
Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Front and back piece: Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 120-132-144-156 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with green and work 3-3-3-4 cm Rib. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in stocking st. When piece measures 8-9-11-13 cm work M.1 – make sure to place a pattern repeat mid front. Remember the knitting tension. When piece measures 15-16-17-19 cm cast off 4-6-6-6 sts each side for armhole and complete front and back pieces separately.

Front piece: = 56-60-66-72 sts. Dec to shape the armhole on every other row: 1 st twice = 52-56-62-68 sts. After M.1 complete piece in white. When piece measures 22-24-27-30 cm cast off the middle 10-12-16-18 sts for neck and complete and side separately. Right shoulder: dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 3 times. Cast of remaining 13-14-15-17 sts when piece measures 26-28-31-34 cm. Left shoulder: dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1 time. When piece measures 25-27-30-33 cm change to needle size 2.5 mm and work 2 cm Rib, but after 2 rows make 1 buttonhole mid shoulder. 1 buttonhole = cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on return row. Cast of remaining 15-16-17-19 sts when piece measures 27-29-32-35 cm.

Back piece: = 56-60-66-72 sts. Dec for armhole and work pattern as described for front piece. When piece measures 25-27-30-33 cm cast off the middle 22-24-28-30 sts for neck and complete each side separately. Right shoulder: dec 2 sts on neckline and cast of remaining 13-14-15-17 sts when piece measures 26-28-31-34 cm. Left shoulder: When piece measures 25-27-30-32 cm change to needle size 2.5 mm and work 2 cm Rib. Cast of remaining 15-16-17-19 sts when piece measures 27-29-32-35 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 38-40-40-42 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with green and work 2-2-3-3 cm Rib. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in stocking st, at the same time inc 2-4-8-10 sts evenly on first round = 40-44-48-52 sts. Now inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 9-9-10-10 times as follows:
Size 3 months: on every 4th round
Size 6/9 months: on every 4th and 5th round alternately
Size 12/18 + 24 months: on every 5th round
= 58-62-68-72 sts. When piece measures 15-18-20-23 cm work M.2 and then complete piece in white. At the same time when piece measures 16-20-22-24 cm cast off 6 sts mid under arm and complete sleeve back and forth on needle. Dec to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 5 sts 2-2-3-3 times. Cast off, sleeve measures approx 18-22-24-27 cm.

Assembly:
Sew shoulder seam. Pick up approx 80-90 sts round neck on needle size 2.5 mm with white and work 2 cm Rib, at the same time after 2 rows make a buttonhole on left shoulder in line with the other, cast off in navy blue. Set in sleeves and sew on buttons.
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SHORTS:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12 - 24 months

DROPS circular needle size 3 mm and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm

Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Hem: 3 cm stocking st, P 1 round (measure piece from here), K 1 round, change to navy blue, 3 cm stocking st.

Right leg:
Cast on 52-58-62-68 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with green and work Hem. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and continue in stocking st, at the same time inc 24-28-34-28 sts evenly on first round = 76-86-96-96 sts.
When piece measures 6-7-8-9 cm divide piece at inside leg (= split) and complete piece back and forth on needle. Inc 1 st each side for seam = 78-88-98-98 sts. When piece measures 7-8-9-10 cm cast off 4-5-5-5 sts each side = 70-78-88-88 sts. Put piece aside and knit the other leg.

Left leg: like right leg.

Trousers: Put both legs in on the same circular needle = 140-156-176-176 sts – measure piece from here. Now inc 1 st in the last st on each leg (= middle sts mid front and mid back) = 142-158-178-178 sts. Now inc mid back on both sides of the middle 2 sts on every 3rd round: 1 st 5 times, at the same time dec mid front on every 3rd round on both sides of the middle 2 sts: 1 st 6 times – dec as follows: K2 tog into back of st, K2 middle sts, K2 tog = 140-156-176-176 sts. When piece measures 17-19-21-22 cm change to needle size 2.5 mm and knit Hem, at the same time dec evenly to 140-154-158-162 sts. Cast off. Fold Hem double towards WS and fasten, leave an opening and pull through a ribbon. Sew tog split between legs.
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HAT:

Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12 - 24 months
Head circumference: 39-43-46-48 cm.

DROPS double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and 3 mm

Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Cast on 8 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with white and distribute sts on needles. Continue as follows: K 1 round into back of loops.
Round 2: inc 1 st in each st = 16 sts
Round 3 and all odd rounds: stocking st
Round 4: inc 1 st in every other st = 24 sts
Round 6: K1, inc 1 st in next st, *inc 1 st in every 3rd st* = 32 sts
Round 8: inc 1 st in every 4th st = 40 sts
Round 10: K1, inc 1 st in next st, *inc 1 st in every 5th st* = 48 sts
Round 12: inc 1 st in first st, *inc 1 st in every 6th st* = 56 sts
Round 14: K4, inc 1 st in next st, *inc 1 st in every 7th st* = 64 sts
Round 16: K1, inc 1 st in next st, *inc 1 st in every 8th st* = 72 sts
Round 18: inc 1 st in first st, *inc 1 st in every 9th st* = 80 sts
Round 20: K5, inc 1 st in next st, *inc 1 st in every 10th st* = 88 sts
Continue increasing like this, begin row with K1 and K6, 7, 8 etc. alternately. When piece measures 9-10-10-10 cm work 8 rounds without inc. Now dec in reverse order until piece measures 2-3-3-3 cm from beg of decreases. Now dec evenly to 102-112-120-125 sts on next round. Change to needle size 2.5 mm and work 3 cm stocking st, change to navy blue, work 1 round in stocking st, P 1 round, 3 cm stocking st, cast off. Fold hem double towards WS and fasten.

Diagram

= navy blue
= green
= white



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 2-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (20)

Walburga 28.04.2020 - 20:29:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, Ärmel: Für die Armkugel in jeder 2.R 2-2(3-3) x 5 M abketten. Heißt das, dass 5 Maschen auf einmal abkette? Das erscheint mir viel. Lieben Dank und viele Grüße

DROPS Design 29.04.2020 kl. 09:00:

Liebe Frau Walburga, ja genau, Sie ketten 5 Maschen am Anfang der nächsten 4 Reihen (1. + 2. Größe) oder der nächsten 6 Reihen (3. + 4. Größe) = 10 oder 15 Maschen werden insgesamt beidseitig abgekettet. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Rosemarie Carter 17.04.2020 - 08:49:

I would just like to thank drop design for all there patterns they are all amazing thank you very much 💖💖

Claudia 28.03.2020 - 14:15:

Hej! På den mindste størrelse 3 mdr , skal der der være en sejlbåd /rapport i midten - eller 6 per forside og bagside så der er mellemrum mellem sejlbåde i midten?

DROPS Design 31.03.2020 kl. 11:49:

Hej Claudia, du har 60 masker, så hvis du strikker 6 masker striber ifølge diagrammet, strikker hele diagrammet 5 gange, og afslutter med 6 masker, så får du en sejlbåd midt på når du kommer til den. Hvis du strikker hele diagrammet 6 gange i bredden, så vil du kun få en del af sejlbåden med som du kan se på billede nr 3. God fornøjelse!

Monika 10.11.2019 - 21:10:

Hallo, habe eine Frage zur Mütze. Werden die letzten cm nach der Abnahme nicht im Bündchenmuster gestrickt? Sieht auf dem Bild so aus. Danke für die Antwort im voraus. Monika

DROPS Design 11.11.2019 kl. 11:34:

Liebe Monika, bei dieser Mütze wird kein Bündchen sondern eine gefaltete Kante gestrickt, dieses Video zeigt wie man so strickt, es wird nur bei der Mütze am Ende und nicht am Anfang gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Jane Hoeksema 04.09.2019 - 21:38:

Good afternoon! I am working on the Le Petit Explorateur and am a little confused about the sleeve cap castoff. Is it cast off 5 stitches on each side 3 times for a total of 30 stitches? Then cast off the remaining stitches?

DROPS Design 05.09.2019 kl. 09:29:

Dear Mrs Hoeksema, yes correct, you will cast off 5 sts at the beg of each row (both from RS and from WS) a total of 3 times on each side = 15 sts will be cast off in total on each side. Happy knitting!

Monika 03.12.2018 - 08:58:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, leider ist euer Zentimetermaß auf der Anleitung nicht korrekt. 3 cm entsprechen nur 2,5 cm. Das ist jetzt nicht weltbewegend, ich wollt es aber dennoch einnmal mitteilen. Ansonsten ist die Anleitung bisher (Muster M1 zur Hälfte auf Vor- und Rückteil fertig) super. Und wenn man vorher die Kommentare lesen würde, dann hätte ich auch die ersten 8cm ab Anschlagkante gestrickt, so wird der Pulli halt etwas länger ;-). Vielen Dank!

DROPS Design 03.12.2018 kl. 10:57:

Liebe Monika, Um das Massband 100% korrekt zu erhalten, müssen Sie die Anleitung in voller Grösse ausdrucken (und nicht die Druckeroption "Grösse anpassen" benutzen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Emma 27.09.2018 - 15:47:

Skal skal bare lige være helt sikker... Skal man strikke hele vejen rundt på rundpinde eller frem og tilbage? Og hvilken længde rundpind skal jeg bruge til de 2 første størrelser?

DROPS Design 28.09.2018 kl. 15:11:

Hej Emma, ja du strikker rundt på rundpind til du kommer op til ærmegabet. På de 2 mindste størreler skal du bruge en rundpind på 40 cm. God fornøjelse!

Georgia Kosmas 25.07.2018 - 05:42:

Hi, thank-you for your advice. I have completed the jumper!!! A bit tricky in certain spots but managed it :) Very cute pattern. Thanks again.

Georgia Kosmas 23.05.2018 - 09:51:

Hi, l am from Australia and l am about to start knitting the Le Petit Explorateur jumper (thank-you for providing the pattern). Regarding the circular needles sizes 2.5 and 3.00mm, there is unfortunately no mention about the length required. What length should they be 40cm; 60cm or longer?? I am making the 24 month size that requires me to cast on156 stitches working in the round. Looking forward to hearing from so so l can get started on this lovely pattern.

DROPS Design 23.05.2018 kl. 13:45:

Hi Georgia, thank you for your message - it is nice to hear that you like this pattern! You can use circle needles 60 cm long, it will be enough for 24-month size. Happy knitting!

Sanne Tyllesen 26.02.2018 - 07:01:

Jeg vil utroligt gerne strikke denne til mit kommende barnebarn, men diagrammet mangler. Kan i lægge det ind på siden, eller sende det til mig. Tusind tak. Mvh Sanne

DROPS Design 26.02.2018 kl. 08:07:

Hej Sanne, Så ligger diagrammet med på opskriften. God fornøjelse!

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