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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Skirts
  4. DROPS
  5. 239
  6. 27

Reflections of Aurora by DROPS Design

Crocheted skirt in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with zig-zag pattern and stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

Keywords: assembly free, colourwork, skirt, stripes, top down, zigzag

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DROPS 239-27
DROPS Design: Pattern e-348
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-100-150-150 g colour 50, mint
100-100-100-100-150-150 g colour 72, chalk
100-100-100-100-150-150 g colour 70, sweet orchid
100-100-100-100-100 100 g colour 63, sea green
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 65, pistachio
50-50-50-50-100-100 g colour 62, lemon
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 06, denim blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 64, light beige

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 521: 3 items in all sizes.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM.

CROCHET TENSION:
22 double/treble crochets in width = 10 cm.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 1.30 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.90£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET INFORMATION-1:
Each row of double crochets turns with 1 chain stitch which does not replace the first double crochet.

CROCHET INFORMATION-2:
On each row of zig-zag pattern replace the first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double/treble crochet is wide.

STRIPES:
NOTE! The stripes finish differently in the different sizes:
2 rows colour 62, lemon
6 rows colour 65, pistachio
2 rows colour 64, light beige
2 rows colour 63, sea green
2 rows colour 72, chalk
4 rows colour 50, mint
4 rows colour 70, sweet orchid
4 rows colour 72, chalk
2 rows colour 06, denim blue
2 rows colour 65, pistachio
4 rows colour 63, sea green
2 rows colour 64, light beige
4 rows colour 70, sweet orchid
2 rows colour 62, lemon
3 rows colour 72, chalk
2 rows colour 50, mint
2 rows colour 63, sea green
2 rows colour 64, light beige
4 rows colour 06, denim blue

If all the stripes are finished, begin again from the top.

DECREASE TIP:
WORK 2 STITCHES TOGETHER:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert the hook through the next stitch, pick up the strand and pull it through the stitch, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook (1 stitch decreased).

WORK 3 STITCHES TOGETHER:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert the hook through the next stitch, pick up the strand and pull it through the stitch, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* 2 more times, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 4 loops on the hook (2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SKIRT ¬– SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked top down, back and forth until the split is finished then in the round.

SKIRT:
Work 151-165-181-195-225-255 CHAIN STITCHES – read description above, with hook size 3.5 mm and colour mint DROPS Safran. Work 1 double crochet in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook then 1 double crochet in each chain stitch = 150-164-180-194-224-254 double crochets + 1 chain stitch – read CROCHET INFORMATION-1. Work 2 rows with 1 double crochet in each double crochet. Work the next row as follows: 2 chain stitches, skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in the next double crochet, * 1 chain stitch, skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in the next double crochet *, work from *-* to the end of the row = 75-82-90-97-112-127 double crochets and 75-82-90-97-112-127 chain stitches. Work the next row as follows: 2 chain stitches, skip the first double crochet and work 1 double crochet around the first chain stitch, * 1 chain stitch, skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet around the next chain stitch *, work from *-* to the end of the row. Repeat this last row until the piece measures 5-6-6-7-7-8 cm. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Work 1 row with 1 double crochet in each double crochet and 1 double crochet around each chain stitch = 150-164-180-194-224-254 stitches.
On the next row increase evenly as follows: * 1 double crochet in each of the 2 first double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet *, work from *-*, until there are 0-2-0-2-2-2 double crochets left, work 2 double crochets in each of these double crochets = 200-220-240-260-300-340 stitches. Work STRIPES– read description above – AT THE SAME TIME as you work zig-zag pattern back and forth as follows:

ROW 1 (right side): 3 chain stitches (1 treble crochet), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 7 double crochets, * work the next 4 stitches together 2 and 2 – read DECREASE TIP, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 8 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 8 double crochets *, work from *-* 8-9-10-11-13-15 more times, work the next 4 stitches together 2 and 2, 1 treble crochet in each of the last 8 double crochets = 180-198-216-234-270-306 stitches.
ROW 2: 3 chain stitches (1 treble crochet) + 1 treble crochet in the first treble crochet, 2 treble crochets in each of the next 2 treble crochets, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 treble crochets, * work the next 6 treble crochets together 3 and 3, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6 treble crochets, 3 treble crochets around the chain-space, 3 chain stitches, 3 treble crochets around the same chain-space, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6 treble crochets*, work from *-* 8-9-10-11-13-15 more times, work the next 6 treble crochets together 3 and 3, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 treble crochets and 2 treble crochets in each of the last 3 treble crochets = 200-220-240-260-300-340 stitches.
ROW 3: 3 chain stitches (1 treble crochet) + 1 treble crochet in the first treble crochet, 2 treble crochets in the next treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 treble crochets, * work the next 6 treble crochets together 3 and 3, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 7 treble crochets, 2 treble crochets around the chain-space, 3 chain stitches, 2 treble crochets around the same chain-space, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 7 treble crochets *, work from *-* 8-9-10-11-13-15 more times, work the next 6 treble crochets together 3 and 3, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 treble crochets, 2 treble crochets in each of the last 2 treble crochets = 200-220-240-260-300-340 stitches.
Repeat row 3 one more time, turn. The piece measures approx. 11-12-12-13-13-14 cm. The split is finished; work the next row as follows: 3 chain stitches + 1 treble crochet in the first treble crochet, 2 treble crochets in the next treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 treble crochets, * work the next 6 treble crochets together 3 and 3, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 7 treble crochets, 2 treble crochets around the chain-space, 3 chain stitches, 2 treble crochets around the same chain-space, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 7 treble crochets *, work from *-* 8-9-10-11-13-15 more times, work the next 6 treble crochets together 3 and 3, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 treble crochets, 2 treble crochets in each of the last 2 treble crochets on the round, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round = 200-220-240-260-300-340 stitches.

Work the next round as follows - read CROCHET INFORMATION-2: * 1 treble crochet in each of the first 7 treble crochets, work the next 6 treble crochets together 3 and 3, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 7 treble crochets, 2 treble crochets around the chain-space, 3 chain stitches, 2 treble crochets around the same chain-space *, work from *-* to the end of the round.
Continue in the round with zig-zag pattern. AT THE SAME TIME on the next round increase 2 treble crochets in each repeat by working 3 treble crochets + 3 chain stitches + 3 treble crochets around each chain-space instead of 2 treble crochets + 3 chain stitches + 2 treble crochets (increase from 10 to 11 treble crochets along each angle) = 220-242-264-286-330-374 stitches. Repeat this increase every 6th round 5 more times = 320-352-384-416-480-544 stitches (there are now 16 treble crochets along each angle). Continue working until the skirt measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm at the longest point. Cut and fasten the strands.

BUTTON-LOOPS:
Along the back of the split work a band with button-loops: Work 3 rows of double crochets and colour mint. Work 3-3-3-4-4-4 button-loops evenly on the next row: 1 button-loop = 3 chain stitches, skip 1 cm, work 1 double crochet in the next stitch. The bottom loop is 1 cm from the bottom of the split and the top loop 1 cm from the top.
Work back as follows: 1 double crochet in each double crochet and 3 double crochets around each chain-space. Cut and fasten the strand.

BUTTON-LINING:
Along the other side of the split work 5 rows of double crochets with colour mint. Cut and fasten the strand
Sew the buttons onto row 1, matching the button-loops.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 239-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Lisbeth Høyer wrote:

Forskyder den første stangmaske på en omgang sig ikke to fordi man slår 2 m om luft maske bue, hvad gør man så når man kommer hen til at man skal strikke de 3 m sammen og samtidig skifte farve til en ny omgang ?

26.08.2023 - 09:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lisebeth. Litt usikker på hvor du er i oppskriften, skriv gjerne hvilken rad du hekler ( og str. du hekler). Ta også en titt på hvelkevidoene som du finner nederst på oppskriften. mvh DROPS Design

11.09.2023 kl. 11:55

country flag Lisbeth Høyer wrote:

Jeg havde glemt de 3 luftmasker, inden man begynder at hækle rundt.

24.08.2023 - 12:29

country flag Lisbeth Høyer wrote:

Jeg har det samme problem ,når man begynder at hækle rundt som Christina, skal der ikke laves en bue af 3 luftmasker i samlingen, så det også bliver sik sak mønster der, det stemmer heller ikke med antal masker. Vil gerne se en nederdel bagfra med samlingen om muligt .

24.08.2023 - 12:01

country flag Aslaug Lerbæk Lerbaek wrote:

Jeg vil hekle skjørtet ensfarget - hvor nye garn da?

29.06.2023 - 17:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Aslaug, det har vi ingen information om, men vi gætter at du skal bruge ca 500 g i de mindste størrelser og ca 700 g i de største størrelser :)

30.06.2023 kl. 09:03

country flag Tze Moi Ang wrote:

I finished my skirt and noticed the curly result (yellow stripe immediately after the waist band. Why is that and if I were to make another one, can I improve the design? And do you have other color combinations for suggestion? Thanks.

19.04.2023 - 11:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ang, you can block your skirt, ie spray water and let dry flat, this should help. Enjoy your skirt!

19.04.2023 kl. 13:11

country flag Cherry Lim wrote:

It would be very nice if this zig-zag pattern in the form of a dress with a slightly flared skirt can be created, similar to the knitted dress version :)

08.04.2023 - 17:55

country flag Christina Rasmussen wrote:

Hej med jer Når jeg begynder at hækle rundt, så siger opskriften ikke noget om at tage ud i de første 2 og sidste 2 masker… men så passer maskerne ikke med 7 stm efterfulgt af 2x3 indtagninger og der er ikke siksak mønster i samlingen… skal der ikke tages ud på en eller dansen måde??? Håber mit spørgsmål giver mening😅

26.03.2023 - 13:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Christina, det stemmer, du tager ud i luftmaskerne som beskrevet i opskriften, da vil antal masker stemme :)

12.04.2023 kl. 14:40

country flag Dinah wrote:

🇧🇷 Quais os passos para aumentar, ou seja um tamanho maior para mulheres cheinhas? São múltiplos de quanto? Obrigada.

20.03.2023 - 17:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bom dia, Este modelo tem explicações para os tamanhos S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL Basta seguir as instruções para os números acima. Bom croché!

21.03.2023 kl. 09:54

country flag Amber wrote:

Wavelength

18.01.2023 - 20:59

country flag Alena wrote:

Serene waves

18.01.2023 - 11:18

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© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.