DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g

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Frosted Chocolate

Crocheted head band and mittens in DROPS Alaska. SIZE S - L:

DROPS 225-19

#frostedchocolateset

DROPS design: Pattern x-471
Yarn group C
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FOR THE ENTIRE SET:

SIZE:
S/M - M/L
Head circumference: 54/56 – 56/58 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150 g colour 02, off white
100-100 g colour 49, light brown

HEAD BAND:

SIZE:
S/M - M/L
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-100 g colour 02, off white

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm.

CROCHET TENSION:
16 half treble crochets in width and 13.5 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that hook size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller hook.

MITTENS:

SIZE:
S/M - M/L
Measurements: Circumference: approx. 18-19 cm Length: Approx. 34-35 cm (= 26-27 cm with cuff folded up approx. 8 cm)

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
50-50 g colour 02, off white
100-100 g colour 49, light brown

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm.

CROCHET TENSION:
16 half treble crochets in width and 13.5 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that hook size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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DIAGRAM (applies to head band):
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

CROCHET TIP FOR CHAIN STITCH:
If you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight.
1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 double crochet/half treble crochet/treble crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
When working back and forth:
At the beginning of every row with half treble crochets work 2 chain stitches. These chain stitches do not replace first half treble crochet.
When working in the round:
At the beginning of every round with half treble crochets work 2 chain stitches. These chain stitches do not replace first half treble crochet. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 2nd chain stitch on round.

2 HALF TREBLE CROCHETS IN A STITCH:
Work 2 half treble crochets together in the last stitch on row as follows:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert hook in the stitch, get yarn *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total in the last stitch on row, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook.

WORK 2 HALF TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, get yarn *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 29 stitches) , and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 5) = 5.8.
In this example decrease by working approx. every 5th and 6th stitch together - read WORK 2 HALF TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER.

INCREASE TIP (applies to mittens):
Increase 1 stitch by working 2 stitches in same stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HEAD BAND – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth from mid front. Sew end together to form a cable mid front on head band.

HEAD BAND:
Work 21-23 chain stitches – read CROCHET TIP FOR CHAIN STITCH, on hook size 4.5 mm with colour off white in DROPS Alaska. Turn and work 1 half treble crochet in 2nd chain stitch from hook, work 1 half treble crochet in every chain stitch until 1 chain stitch remains, work 2 HALF TREBLE CROCHETS IN A STITCH - read explanation above = 20-22 half treble crochets + 2 chain stitches to turn with - read CROCHET INFO.
Work back and forth with 1 half treble crochet in every half treble crochet and work 2 half treble crochets in the last half treble crochet on every row until piece measures 49-51 cm.
REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Cut and fasten the yarn.

ASSEMBLY:
The piece is now a flat rectangle, fold it along the long side so that it is double and down with right side out - see diagram A.1.
Now place the long sides of head band in towards each other in layers without twisting the piece - see diagram A.2. The ends of the head band should now be alternately inside and outside of each other, and ends should be edge to edge - see diagram A.3.
Now sew through all layers as follows:
Sew along the dotted line in diagram A.4 (i.e. over the ends of piece), and sew with close whip stitches with 1 stitch in every stitch - it is important to sew through all layers to get an invisible seam when the piece is turned.
Cut and fasten the yarn. Turn the piece so that the seam is on the inside of head band.

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MITTENS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
First work cuff back and forth and sew it together to form a tube. Then work stitches along the side of cuff and work the rest of mitten in the round.

CUFF:
Work 18 chain stitches – read CROCHET TIP FOR CHAIN STITCHES, on hook size 4.5 mm with colour off white in DROPS Alaska. Work back and forth as follows: Work 1 half treble crochet in 2nd chain stitch from hook, 1 half treble in each of the next 16 chain stitches = 17 half treble crochets + 2 chain stitches at the beginning of round – read CROCHET INFO.
Then work half treble crochets back and forth in back loop of stitch to get a rib texture. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
When piece measures 24-25 cm, cut the yarn but leave approx. 20 cm for assembly. Sew the cuff together stitch by stitch along the last row worked and chain stitch row at the beginning of piece to form a tube.

MITTEN:
Then continue with colour light brown. Work 29-31 half treble crochets evenly around one opening of the tube – remember CROCHET INFO. Work 1 half treble crochet in every half treble crochet. When piece measures 4 cm from cuff, insert a marker in the 15th-16th stitch on round. Increase for thumb gusset on each side of stitch with marker - read INCREASE TIP. Then increase on either side of the increased stitches every other round 4-5 times in total = 37-41 half treble crochets = 9-11 stitches for thumb).
Work until mitten measures 12 cm from cuff.
Work next round as follows:
Work the first 14-15 stitches, skip the next 9-11 stitches (= thumb stitches), work 1 chain stitch behind the thumb, work the last 14-15 stitches on round = 29-31 stitches. Continue in the round with 1 half treble crochet in every stitch until mitten measures 20-21 cm from cuff – try on the mitten and work to desired length (approx. 3 cm remains until finished measurements). Now begin decrease at the on top of mitten.
ROUND 1: Work 1 round with half treble crochets while decreasing 5-7 half treble crochets evenly - read DECREASE TIP = 24 stitches.
ROUND 2: Work * 1 half treble crochet in each of the next 2 half treble crochets, WORK 2 HALF TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER – read explanation above *, work from *-* 6 times in total = 18 half treble crochets.
ROUND 3: Work * 1 half treble crochet in next half treble crochet, work 2 half treble crochets together *, work from *-* 6 times in total = 12 half treble crochets.
ROUND 4: Work * 2 half treble crochets together *, work from *-* 6 times in total = 6 half treble crochets.
Cut the yarn, baste it up and down through the stitches, pull yarn to tighten and fasten tightly. The mitten measures approx. 34-35 cm including cuff. Fold the cuff approx. 8 cm upwards.

THUMB:
ROUND 1: Work 1 slip stitch in the first of the 9-11 thumb stitches, 3 chain stitches, then work 1 half treble crochet in each of the next 8-10 half treble crochets, then work 2 half treble crochets around chain stitch behind thumb =10-12 half treble crochets.
Then work half treble crochets until thumb measures approx. 4½ -5 cm. Try the mitten on and work until desired length (approx. 1 cm remains until finished measurements).
Now decrease as follows:
ROUND 1: Work half treble crochets together 2 by 2 the entire round = 5- 6 half treble crochets.
ROUND 2: Work 1-0 half treble crochet, work half treble crochets together 2 by 2 the entire round = 3- 3 half treble crochets.
Cut the yarn, baste it up and down through the stitches, pull yarn to tighten and fasten tightly.

Work another mitten the same way.

Diagram

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
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Comments / Questions (6)

Hannah Mattsson wrote:

Hej, jag förstår inte hur jag ska hopa över maskorna vid tummen?? Tack för hjälp! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼

29.10.2023 - 21:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hannah. Jo, du har 37-41 masker og du har økt til tommelkilen og når votten måler 12 cm fra mansjetten, skal du kun hekle selve votten. Tommelen hekler du etterpå, men du må hoppe over 9 -11 masker (som senere skal hekles til tommelen). Så hekle de første 14-15 maskene, hopp over de neste 9-11 maskene (= tommelmasker), hekle 1 luftmaske (denne blir bak tommelen), hekle de siste 14-15 maskene på omgangen. Du har nå 29-31 masker. Hekle ferdig votten etter oppskriften, klipp tråden. Nå skal du hekle tommel på de 9-11 maskene du hoppet over + 1 luftmaske. Les under TOMMEL i oppskriften. mvh DROPS Design

30.10.2023 - 13:57

Christina wrote:

Hej jeg forstår ikke hvad der menes med at hækle 1 lm bag tommelfingeren?

31.01.2023 - 13:46

Hej Christine, jo du hækler 1 ekstra maske imellem de andre masker indenfor tommelfingeren :)

31.01.2023 - 15:11

Tess wrote:

När det ska ökas för tumkil på vantarna, hur ska det ökas? Står att det ska ökas på varje sida av de ökade maskorna, menas det att det kommer bli fler och fler maskor mellan ökningsmaskorna för varje varv? Eller ska avståndet mellan ökningsmaskorna vara samma?

11.11.2022 - 14:54

Hei Tess. Øk på hver side av masken med merket i, da vil det på hver øke omgang bli: hekle 2 halvstaver i en 1 maske, hekle maske med merket og hekle 2 halvstaver i neste maske. mvh DROPS Design

14.11.2022 - 11:55

Sara wrote:

Salve, ho visto i vostri modelli e sono davvero bellissimi tutti. Li vorrei creare tutti piano piano però ho un problema nel capire la spiegazione scritta... non capisco i diagrammi quando c è scritto A1 A2 Potrebbe aiutarmi? Grazie in anticipo

16.03.2022 - 11:50

Buonasera Sara, i diagrammi si leggono dal basso verso l'alto e da destra a sinistra per i ferri di andata e da sinistra a destra per quelli di ritorno, oppure sempre da destra verso sinistra durante la lavorazione in tondo. Buon lavoro!

16.03.2022 - 22:51

Snorre wrote:

... "sys sammen slik at de danner en tube" - TUBE ?? En tube ser da helt annerledes ut! Det engelske 'tube' heter på norsk 'rør'. Det der står overalt i drops' oppskrifter og ser dumt ut. Sendes som spørsmål, for ellers leser dere det ikke, tror jeg ...

17.12.2021 - 10:38

Hei Snorre. Dumt for noen, men helt normal for andre. Ordet tubestrikk er også mye brukt i strikketermologien, slik at tube kan være enklere å skjønne enn rør i håndarbeids verden. Vi mener det er helt innenfor å bruke det ordet. Både Spørsmål og Kommentarer som blir sendt til oss blir lest, men kun Spørsmål blir besvart. mvh DROPS Design

21.12.2021 - 10:04

Avely wrote: