DROPS Melody uni colour 71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide |
4.25 £ /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Melody uni colour 71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide 4.25 £ /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= knit from right side | |
= knit from wrong side | |
= purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1 in same stitch (work in front loop of stitch = 4 stitches increased). | |
= insert right needle through first stitch on left needle knitwise, make 3 yarn overs, pull yarn overs through stitch on left needle, and then drop stitch off left needle. | |
= purl one yarn over, and drop the other 2 yarn overs (stitch is now long) | |
= knit one yarn over, and drop the other 2 yarn overs (stitch is now long) | |
= knit 5 twisted together (= 4 stitches decreased) |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
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Knitted jumper with popcorn and bobbles in DROPS Melody. Size XS–XXL.
DROPS 220-9 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- GARTER STITCH (back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. CAST-OFF TIP: To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches). ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Work back and front piece back and forth on circular needle separately, bottom up. Sew piece together on the shoulders. Then pick up stitches along armholes. Sleeves are worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Sew piece together as explained in pattern. Work a neck edge in garter stitch at the end. BACK PIECE: Place circular needle size 7 and 8 mm together and cast on 54-60-66-72-78-84 stitches over both these circular needles with Melody – this is done to avoid a tight cast-on edge. Pull out circular needle size 8 mm from the stitches, and work in GARTER STITCH back and forth on circular needle size 7 mm - read explanation above. When piece measures 6 cm, switch to circular needle size 8 mm. Work next row as follows from right side: Work A.1 (= 3 stitches), work A.2 over the next 48-54-60-66-72-78 stitches (= 8-9-10-11-12-13 repetitions of 6 stitches), and finish with A.1 (= 3 stitches). Continue pattern back and forth like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 46-46-48-47-49-49 cm, cast off 2-2-2-8-8-8 stitches for armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 50-56-62-56-62-68 stitches. Continue pattern as before but work A.1 over only 1 stitch in each side When piece measures approx. 47-49-51-52-54-56 cm – finish after one whole repetition, vertically work in garter stitch back and forth over all stitches. When piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm, cast off the middle 16-18-18-20-20-22 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue with garter stitch and cast off 1 stitch on next row from neck = 16-18-21-17-20-22 stitches remain on shoulder. Continue to work until piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Cast off by knitting from right side - read CAST-OFF TIP! Work the other shoulder the same way. FRONT PIECE: Cast on the same number of stitches as on back piece and work be the same way as back piece until piece measures 49-51-53-54-56-58 cm. Now slip the middle 12-14-14-16-16-18 stitches on a stitch holder for neck, and finish each shoulder separately. Continue with garter stitch and cast off for neck at the beginning of every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1 time = 16-18-21-17-20-22 stitches remain on shoulder. Continue to work until piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Cast off by knitting from right side - read CAST-OFF TIP! Work the other shoulder the same way. ASSEMBLY-1: Sew shoulder seams inside cast-off edge. SLEEVES: Now pick up stitches along the armhole as explained below, i.e. From bottom of armhole and up to shoulder, and from shoulder and down to armhole on the other side - work sleeves top down. Pick up from right side approx. 42-48-48-54-54-60 stitches inside 1 edge stitch on circular needle size 8 mm with Melody. Knit 1 row from wrong side. Work next row as follows from right side: Work A.1 (= 3 stitches), work A.2 over the next 36-42-42-48-48-54 stitches (= 6-7-7-8-8-9 repetitions of 6 stitches), and finish with A.1 (= 3 stitches). Continue pattern back and forth like this. When sleeve measures 2-2-2-7-7-7 cm from where stitches were picked up, insert 1 marker in each side. Markers mark where sleeves are sewn to the bottom of armhole. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue back and forth as before. When sleeve measures 4 cm from markers, decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of row by knitting 2 together. When piece measures 8 cm, decrease 1 stitch at the end of row by knitting 2 twisted together = 40-46-46-52-52-58 stitches. Repeat decrease in size L, XL and XXL at the beginning of row when sleeve measures 12 cm from marker, and at the end of row when sleeve measures 16 cm from markers = 40-46-46-50-50-56 stitches. Continue pattern as before but work A.1 over only the outermost 2-2-2-1-1-1 stitch in each side Work until sleeve measures approx. 46-45-44-42-41-39 cm from marker – finish after one whole repetition vertically. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm. Work in garter stitch back and forth until sleeve measures 48-47-46-44-43-41 cm from markers, or desired length. Cast off by knitting from right side - remember CAST-OFF TIP! ASSEMBLY-2: Sew sleeves to bottom of armhole – markers on sleeve should fit side on front piece/back piece Sew underarm seams and side seams in one - begin at the bottom of sleeve and sew seam up to armhole (in outer loops of edge stitches to avoid a chunky seam), then continue seam from armhole and down along front/back piece. Repeat in the other side of piece. NECK EDGE: Begin at one shoulder and pick up from right side approx. 46 to 60 stitches around the neck (including stitches on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 7 mm with Melody. Purl 1 round, knit 1 round and purl 1 round. Cast off by knitting– remember CAST-OFF TIP! |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogues and 11518 patterns translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (22)
Anita wrote:
Hej! Den här tröjan va rolig att sticka Jag är jättenöjd med den . Om jag vill lägga ut en bild på den. Hur gör jag då?
25.11.2022 - 12:57Ida wrote:
Buongiorno, che taglia indossa la modella in foto? Grazie
23.11.2022 - 01:09DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Ida, solitamente le modelle nelle foto indossano la taglia M. Buon lavoro!
24.11.2022 - 19:52Lisbeth Petersen wrote:
Jeg har svært ved at finde den korrekte størrelse. Hvor finder jeg jeres størrelsesskema? Har søgt på nøgleord, men der kommer ikke noget frem.
30.10.2022 - 09:35DROPS Design answered:
Hei Lisbeth. Måleskissen finner du nederst under hver oppskrift. Den inneholder målene på de størrelser vi har i oppskriften. Hvis du følger oppskriften og overholder strikkefastheten får ditt plagg samme mål som i skissen. Hvis du syns det er vanskelig å bestemme deg for hvilken størrelse du skal lage, så kan det være en god ide å måle en genser du har og liker størrelsen på. Velg deretter størrelse ut fra målene som på målskissen tilsvarer dette. Hvis din genser har en lengde på 58 cm, en brystvidde / vidde nederst på genseren på 55 cm, så tilsvarer dette str M på denne målskissen. Omkretsen nederst = 55 cm x 2 = 110 cm hele veien rundt! mvh DROPS Design
31.10.2022 - 12:46Kira Ruud wrote:
Hei! Har dere en video som viser hvordan man kan gjøre om oppskriften slik at man kan strikke rundt på rundpinne, istedenfor frem og tilbake? Eller er det noen praktisk grunn til at genseren strikkes frem og tilbake? M h Kira
05.08.2022 - 10:54DROPS Design answered:
Hej Kira, det har vi desværre ikke, men prøv bare hvis du hellere vil strikke rundt :)
05.08.2022 - 12:18Anne-Marie Wekking wrote:
Ik zou graag willen weten hoe ik het aan elkaar moet naaien met het oog op de lange steken. Als je het met een maassteek doet is er iedere keer een stukje niet dichtgenaaid
11.09.2021 - 17:22DROPS Design answered:
Dag Anne-Marie,
Op de plekken waar j e lange steken hebt kun je ook de maassteken lang maken. Op die manier loopt het patroon a.h.w. door in de naad.
17.09.2021 - 10:49Daisie wrote:
Please photograph the model standing up in order to show the drape of the garment. Thank you:)
09.08.2021 - 03:48Elisabet Henriksen wrote:
Hej Kan I oplyse hvilken type sting man skal sy trøjen sammen med? Der må være noget forkert med målene i opskriften: Når jeg ser på målskitsen er ærmegabet 18 cm i str.S, men når jeg læser instruktionen er det kun 8 cm ( der lukkes af til ærmegab ved 46 cm og bagstykket lukkes af ved 54 cm). For størrelse XL angives længde på ærmegabet at være 25 cm, der lukkes af til ærmegab ved 49 cm og til skuldre ved 64 cm, altså kun 15 cm.
19.07.2021 - 21:24Elisabet Henriksen wrote:
Kan det passe at man ikke skal have et kantmaske for sammensyning.? Tænker det måske er svært at sy dette mønster sammen uden. Hvis ikke hvordan syr man så trøjen sammen?
29.06.2021 - 09:26DROPS Design answered:
Hej Elisabet. Under MONTERING-2 kan du läsa hur du syr trøjen sammen. Mvh DROPS Design
29.06.2021 - 11:21Kirsti Haavik wrote:
Hei. Takk for fine oppskrifter. Strikker størrelse L. Har ikke strikket ermene ovenfra og ned tidligere. Lurer på følgende: «plukk opp masker fra BUNNEN av ermehullet». Menes det da at de 8 maskene som er felt på hver side av bolen ikke tas med? Forstår det slik at de 7 cm som er strikket før merket på armen, skal syes sammen med disse maskene som er felt på bolen. Blir dette riktig? Med vennlig hilsen Kirsti
11.05.2021 - 11:50DROPS Design answered:
Hej Kirsti, du strikker masker op fra bunden af ærmegabet, det vil siger derfra hvor du lukkede masker af til ærmehul. God fornøjelse!
14.05.2021 - 08:42Elena wrote:
Dear Garnstudio-Team, Will you please tell if it is possible to knit the jumper in the round up to the armholes. Thank you so much!
25.03.2021 - 22:06DROPS Design answered:
Dear Elena, this might be possible - you would have to adjust the way of working the diagram/pattern - this video below might help you. Happy knitting!
26.03.2021 - 07:15