DROPS design: Pattern z-891
Yarn group A + A + A + A + A + A or E + C
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-200-200-250-250-250 g colour 8120, lavender mix
150-200-200-250-250-250 g colour 9024, dark blush
150-200-200-250-250-250 g colour no 9026, blush
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-125-125-150 g colour no 10, grey
100-100-100-125-125-150 g colour 22, ash grey
100-100-100-125-125-150 g colour 33, rust

KNITTING TENSION:
7 stitches in width and 16 rows vertically in English rib and 3 strands Alpaca + 3 strands Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 12 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 12 mm: Length 80 cm for English rib and A.1.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 9 mm: For rib on neck and sleeves.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 mm: Length 80 cm for rib at the bottom on body.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 65.85£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 36 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 18) = 2. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every other stitch (work yarn overs somewhat tight to avoid big holes). On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

ENGLISH RIB (worked in the round):
ROUND 1: * Knit 1, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise *, work from *-* the rest of round.
ROUND 2: * Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, purl together yarn over and slipped stitch *, repeat from *-* the rest of round.
ROUND 3: * Knit together yarn over and slipped stitch, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise *, repeat from *-* the rest of round.
Repeat rounds 2 to 3.

PATTERN: 
See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
All decreases are done on a round with English rib where yarn over and knit stitch are knitted together (adjust to decrease in sections with English rib).
DECREASE 2 STITCHES TOWARDS THE RIGHT AS FOLLOWS (i.e. begin 3 stitches + 2 yarn overs before purl stitch with marker): Slip first knit stitch and yarn over loosely on to right needle knitwise, purl 1, pass slipped stitch and yarn over over purl stitch, slip stitch back on left needle, pass slipped stitch and yarn over over stitch place back on left needle, slip the remaining stitch over on to right needle (= 2 stitches decreased).
DECREASE 2 STITCHES TOWARDS THE LEFT AS FOLLOWS (i.e. begin right after purl stitch with marker): Slip first knit stitch and yarn over on to right needle knitwise, knit the next 2 stitches together (i.e. 1 purl + knit stitch and yarn over), then slip the loose stitch and yarn over over stitches worked together (= 2 stitches decreased).

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck edge and yoke are worked in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle from right shoulder at the back, top down. Yoke is divided into body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Sleeves are worked in the round on double pointed needles, top down.
NOTE! All number of stitches given when working English rib is without yarn overs because yarn overs are counted as 1 stitch together with the slipped stitch.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 36-36-38-40-42-44 stitches on double pointed needles size 9 mm with 1 strand of each colour and quality (= 6 strands). Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm.
When rib is done, knit 1 round while increasing 18-18-20-20-22-22 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 54-54-58-60-64-66 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles or circular needle size 12 mm. Insert 1 marker at beginning of round. Work yoke as explained below. Measure yoke from this marker.

YOKE:
Work ENGLISH RIB - read explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 8-8-9-10-11-12 cm from marker after neck edge, work A.1 in the round (A.1 = approx. 4 cm vertically). AT THE SAME TIME on first round in A.1 increase 28-28-30-30-32-34 stitches evenly = 82-82-88-90-96-100 stitches, and on last round in A.1 increase 18-22-24-24-28-30 stitches evenly = 100-104-112-114-124-130 stitches.
When A.1 has been worked, work English rib (begin with 1st round, then repeat 2nd and 3rd round as before).
When piece measures 20-21-22-24-26-28 cm from marker, work A.1 in the round. AT THE SAME TIME on first round increase 0-6-8-12-16-22 stitches evenly = 100-110-120-126-140-152 stitches.
When yoke measures 21-23-24-26-28-30 cm from marker, divide yoke for body and sleeves as explained below (if the measurements are maintained, a few rounds remain in A.1 when the piece is divided – work rest of A.1 on body and sleeves).
Divide yoke as follows: Slip the first 21-23-25-27-29-31 stitches on 1 stitch holder, cast on 5-5-5-7-7-7 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) work A.1 over the next 29-32-35-36-41-45 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 21-23-25-27-29-31 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 5-5-5-7-7-7 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), and work A.1 as before over the next 29-32-35-36-41-45 stitches (= back piece). Cut the yarn. Finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
= 68-74-80-86-96-104 stitches. Begin round in the middle of the 5-5-5-7-7-7 stitches that were cast on under one sleeve, and finish A.1. Work English rib as before for 9-9-10-10-11-12 cm. Work A.1. Then work English rib as before for approx. 9-10-10-10-11-12 cm - finish with round 2 in English rib pattern. Piece now measures approx. 25-25-26-26-28-30 cm from division and approx. 6 cm remain until finished measurements. Now you can try the jumper and work to desired length, but make sure to finish with working round 2 in English rib pattern.
Switch to circular needle size 9 mm. Work rib in the round (= knit 1/purl 1) but adjust so that rib fits nicely over pattern in English rib - on first round rib knit yarn overs from English rib stitches together with knit stitches in rib.
Continue rib with knit over knit and purl over purl in the round for 6 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP. Jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-66-70 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 21-23-25-27-29-31 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 12 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 5-5-5-7-7-7 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 26-28-30-34-36-38 stitches. Read the rest of sleeve before continuing!
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 5-5-5-7-7-7 stitches under sleeve. Move marker upwards when working. Use marker later when decreasing mid under sleeve.
Begin round after stitch with marker (i.e. stitch with marker is now last stitch on round). Finish A.1 the same way as on body.
Then work English rib in the round for 9-9-10-10-11-12 cm. Then work A.1 in the round. When A.1 has been worked, work English rib until finished measurements before rib at the bottom of sleeve.
AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 3 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches towards the right mid under sleeve (decrease 2 stitches before stitch with marker) - read DECREASE TIP = 24-26-28-32-34-36 stitches.
When sleeve measures 7-7-6-6-5-5 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches towards the left mid under sleeve (decrease 2 stitches after stitch with marker) = 22-24-26-30-32-34 stitches. Decrease like this every 6-6-5-5-4-4 cm until 2 stitches have been decreased 4-4-5-6-7-8 times in total mid under sleeve= 18-20-20-22-22-22 stitches remain.
Work English rib until sleeve measures approx. 38-37-37-34-32-31 cm from division. Approx. 6 cm remain until finished measurements, try the jumper on and work until desired length. NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke.
Switch to double pointed needles size 9 mm. Work rib in the round the same way as bottom on body.
When rib measures 6 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CAST-OFF TIP! Sleeve measures approx. 44-43-43-40-38-37 cm from division.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
diagram
signature-image

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 218-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (4)

country flag Lena Grøvdal wrote:

Men da burde dere skrevet det i oppskriften. Etter første helpatent så skriver dere strikk A1 , dere skriver ikke at man skal strikke sammen kastene..

04.03.2021 - 08:28:

country flag Lena Grøvdal wrote:

Hei. Det er noe feil med oppskriften. Dere skriver man skal øke i A1, men når man strikker helpatent så blir det jo økt automatisk. Jeg har jo flere masker i smal str enn det dere skriver....

03.03.2021 - 13:54:

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lena, Mens du strikker helpatent skal antall masker bli det samme (ingen økninger). Du lager kast den ene omgangen og strikke dem sammen med rett masken omgangen etter. Så du skal bare øke i A.1 der det står spesifisert i diagrammet. Håper dette hjelper og god fornøyelse!

04.03.2021 kl. 07:51:

country flag María Jesús Alonso Abalde Alonso Abalde wrote:

Me parece muy elegante y diferente

07.08.2020 - 20:56:

country flag Novella wrote:

Bonbon

17.07.2020 - 23:10:

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