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  1. Free patterns
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  6. 211
  7. 26

Sunset Shopper by DROPS Design

Crocheted bag in DROPS Paris. The piece is worked bottom up with star pattern on the bottom.

Keywords: bags, lace

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DROPS Design: Pattern no w-791
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
Measurements: Diameter of bottom: approx. 26 cm. Circumference: approx. 82 cm. Height without straps: approx. 40 cm. Straps: approx. 40 cm.

MATERIALS (for 1 bag in each colour):
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250 g colour 38, raspberry
250 g colour 31, purple

CROCHET TENSION:
18 treble crochets in width and 10½ rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.


CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 1.25 € /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.45 € /50g
Siulu dama 		Order
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.25 € /50g
Siulu dama 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.25€. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

CROCHET TIP (for chain stitches):
1 chain stitch should equal 1 double crochet in width. Make sure the loop made is pulled up the hook so it is not too tight. If the chain stitch is too tight the pattern will be too tight in the sections with a lot of chain stitches.

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START THE PIECE IS HERE:

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BAG – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Piece is worked in the round, bottom up.

BAG:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm and Paris and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked.
Work A.1 in the round. When A.1 has been completed there are 3 chain stitches and 18 treble crochets on the round.
The next round is worked as follows: Work A.2 one time (= first repeat also shows the beginning and end of the round), then work A.3 a total of 5 times = 6 leaves on the round. Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
When A.2 and A.3 have been completed there are 42 chain-spaces on the round.
Insert 1 marker in the last round. The piece will be measured from this marker.
Continue working chain-spaces in the round without further increases as follows: Work slip stitches to the middle of the first chain-space, * work 5 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around the next chain-space *, work from *-* round and round without finishing each round. Work until the bag measures 38 cm from the marker and finish approx. above the start of the round at the bottom of the bag.
Work slip stitches as far as the beginning of the next chain-space. Then work the edge with straps as described below.

EDGE WITH STRAPS:
ROUND 1: Work 3 chain stitches (equivalent to 1 treble crochet), 3 treble crochets around the same chain-space, then 4 treble crochets around each chain-space to end of round. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round – read CROCHET INFORMATION = 168 treble crochets on the round.
ROUND 2: Work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet.
ROUND 3: Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 28 treble crochets, then 75 loose chain stitches – remember CROCHET TIP, skip the next 28 treble crochets, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 56 treble crochets, 75 loose chain stitches, skip the next 28 treble crochets and work 1 treble crochet in each of the last 28 treble crochets.
ROUND 4: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 28 treble crochets, 1 double crochet in each of the 75 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the next 56 treble crochets, 1 double crochet in each of the 75 chain stitches and 1 double crochet in each of the last 28 treble crochets.
ROUNDS 5-8: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch. Cut and fasten the strand after the last round.
To finish, work 1 round on the inside of the bag by starting in the middle of the 28 stitches at the bottom of the strap, work 1 double crochet in each of the 14 double crochets, 1 double crochet in each of the 75 stitches on the strap and 1 double crochet in each of the 14 stitches to the middle. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet. Cut and fasten the strand. Repeat on the other strap.

Diagram

symbols = Start here – this chain-stitch ring is described in the text. Continue with symbol over point on the circle and work to the left
symbols = double crochet around ring
symbols = slip stitch in stitch/around chain-space
symbols = treble crochet in stitch
symbols = at beginning of round work 1 chain stitch (this chain stitch is equivalent to 1 double crochet in height) and finish round with 1 slip stitch in this chain stitch
symbols = at beginning of round work 3 chain stitches (these 3 chain stitches are equivalent to 1 treble crochet in height) and finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
symbols = 2 chain stitches
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = 5 chain stitches
symbols = this round is not worked; it has already been worked and just shows how the next round is worked in the stitches
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 211-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Birgitt Deckert wrote:

Hallo, Ich verstehe nicht wie man die Runde mit den 13 Maschen häkelt. Wieviel Bögen müssen in dieser Runde sein?

04.07.2022 - 09:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Deckert, so häkeln Sie die Diagramme (nach A.1) : A.2x 1, dann A.4 x 5 = so haben Sie 6 Blätter. Bei der 6. Reihe A.2/A.3 häkeln Sie 13 Stb mit je 2 Luftmaschen, bei der nächsten Runde häkeln Sie weniger Stäbchen aber mehr Luftmaschenbogen: 2 LmBogen bei der 7. Runde: 4 Luftmaschen 1 fM in den LmBogen von der 6. Runde, 4 Luftmaschen (so haben Sie 2 LmBogen zwischen jedem Blatt). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

04.07.2022 kl. 16:41

country flag Cinzia wrote:

Dopo aver finito schema A.3 devo avere 42 archetti, continuando a lavorare deve prendere la forma della borsa oppure rimanere piatto il lavoro? Grazie

30.06.2022 - 17:49

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Cinzia, la forma finale della borsa la può dare alla fine quando lavora la tracolla. Buon lavoro!

30.06.2022 kl. 20:04

country flag Kasia wrote:

Dzień dobry, chciałam zapytać czy schemat A3 jest wykonywany na pewno w całości ?ponieważ przerobiłam A2 i powstało 6 listków . Gdy przerobię A3 wówczas znowu ze słupków będą powstawać listki a torba ma ich tylko 6. Proszę o dokładne wyjasnienie

06.04.2022 - 10:20

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Kasiu, schemat A.2 to pierwszy listek (ten schemat pokazuje również początek i koniec okrążeń). Schemat A.3 to pozostałe 5 listków. Na końcu otrzymasz 6 listków. W okrążeniu wykonujesz najpierw schemat A.2 (1-szy rząd), a następnie powtarzasz schemat A.3 5 razy (też 1-szy rząd). Itd. Pozdrawiamy!

06.04.2022 kl. 10:35

country flag Carine Bastarache wrote:

Bonjour , Je n'arrive pas à comprendre cette phrase : c'est-à-dire sauter la première bride du tour précédent. ?? Je reste toujours avec une branche de plus sur A2 à cause des 3m en l'air. Merci !!

14.01.2022 - 14:31

country flag Christina wrote:

Forstår jeg oppskriften som riktig hvis jeg leser det sånn at tykkelsen på det første bladet blir litt bredere enn de andre pga. de tre første luftmaskene som starter med eller skal man da hoppe over noe for at de alle skal bli like?

28.12.2021 - 07:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Christina. Ja, du kan tenkte deg at det liksom blir en "søm" pga de 3 luftmaskene+1kjedemaske hver omgang starter og slutter med. mvh DROPS Design

04.01.2022 kl. 13:31

country flag Agneta Nordmark wrote:

Hej, jag har lite svårt att förstå diagrammen. A.2: I första varvet på "bladet", ska ovaltecknet/3 lm räknas som 1 stolpe + 3 st till, alltså 4? Eller ska det vara 3 lm + 2 stolpar = 3 st. I de följande bladen på varvet är det 3 stolpar x 5. I nästa varv, ska det vara 3 lm + 5 stolpar, eller 3 lm + 4 stolpar = 5 på första bladet? osv Tacksam för klarläggande!

19.10.2021 - 19:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Agneta, varje maska finns med i diagrammet, så första varvet i A.2 = 4 maskor och A.3 = 3 maskor :)

21.10.2021 kl. 09:37

country flag Margherita wrote:

Forse ho capito. si lega con A3 vero?

01.06.2021 - 17:48

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Margherita, dopo aver lavorato A.2 deve passare ad A.3. Buon lavoro!

01.06.2021 kl. 22:50

country flag Margherita wrote:

Nel diagramma A2 dopo il 6^ giro , non mi è chiaro come si lega la fine della serie/giro con l'inizio della serie/giro successivo, Ho capito che finisce con 4 catenelle ed inizia con 3 catenelle. Dove sbaglio? grazie

01.06.2021 - 17:44

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Margherita, dopo aver lavorato A.2 deve passare ad A.3. Buon lavoro!

01.06.2021 kl. 22:50

country flag Denève wrote:

Bonjour, je ne sais pas comment procéder pour crocheter le sac DROPS 211-26, les explications concernant ce modèle donnent 3 diagrammes, le diagramme n° 1 je comprends, par contre les diagrammes n°2 et 3, je ne comprends pas, d’après le modèle, je ne vois qu’un diagramme de crocheter, est ce que les explications que vous fournissez est pour un autre sac. Merci pour votre réponse, ce sac je le crochète avec du fil drops PARIS. Cordialement Marie-Ange DENÈVE

29.04.2021 - 15:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Denève, le diagramme A.2 montre le 1er motif du tour, vous répétez ensuite A.3, autrement dit, crochetez le 1er rang de A.2, puis 5 fois le 1er rang de A.3; puis crochetez le 2ème rang de A.2 puis 5 fois le 2ème rang de A.3 et ainsi de suite, vous crochetez les deux diagrammes simultanément en commençant par A.2 au début du rang car A.2 montre comment commencer/terminer les rangs. Bon crochet!

29.04.2021 kl. 16:10

country flag Inger wrote:

Ang nätkasse med stjärnbotten. får det till 49 luftmaskbågar o inte till 42 som det står i mönstret. Vad gör jag för fel? Tacksam för svar.

25.03.2021 - 12:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Inger du har 7 luftmaskebuer i hver rapport som skal hækles 6 gange = totalt 42 God fornøjelse!

26.03.2021 kl. 14:11

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Sunset Shopper

La Nuvola Azzurra, Italy
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