DROPS / 213 / 33

Lavender Puff by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with English rib and raglan. Sizes XS - XXL.

  • Lavender Puff / DROPS 213-33 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with English rib and raglan. Sizes XS - XXL.
  • Lavender Puff / DROPS 213-33 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with English rib and raglan. Sizes XS - XXL.
  • Lavender Puff / DROPS 213-33 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with English rib and raglan. Sizes XS - XXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-886
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-350 g colour 4010, light lavender
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-125-150 g colour 09, light lavender

KNITTING TENSION:
14 stitches in width and 36 rows in height with English rib and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for English rib.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 CM and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.65 € /50g
Spletna prodajalna Klika Klika
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.85 € /50g
Spletna prodajalna Klika Klika
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.50 € /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 4.50 € /25g
Spletna prodajalna Klika Klika
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 4.50 € /25g
Spletna prodajalna Klika Klika
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.25€. Read more.

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagram A.1.

INCREASE TO RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the purled stitch with marker (= raglan-stitch), i.e. increase in the knitted stitch and yarn over closest to the raglan-stitch. Increase 2 stitches on each side of all raglan-stitches (= 16 stitches increased on an increase-round).
Increase 2 stitches in the knitted stitch by working 3 stitches in the stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit together the stitch and yarn over but do not slip them off the left needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle and knit together the stitch and yarn over 1 more time, then slip the knitted stitch and yarn over off the left needle (= 2 stitches increased). Then work the new stitches in English rib (A.1) but be aware that on the first round after the increase, the purled stitches are purled without yarn overs, as there are no yarn overs for these stitches.

DECREASE TIP (for sides of body and mid under the sleeves):
Decrease in stitches closest to the purled stitches with markers mid under the sleeve and in the sides of the body.
All decreases are worked on a round where the knitted stitches and yarn overs are knitted together!
DECREASE 2 STITCHES TOWARDS THE LEFT AS FOLLOWS (i.e. start after the purled stitch with marker): Slip the first knitted stitch and yarn over onto the right needle as if to knit together, knit the next 2 stitches together (i.e. 1 purled + knitted stitch and yarn over), then pass the slipped stitch and yarn-over over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased).
DECREASE 2 STITCHES TOWARDS THE RIGHT AS FOLLOWS (i.e. start 3 stitches + 2 yarn overs before the purled stitch with marker): Slip the first knitted stitch and yarn over onto the right needle as if to knit together, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch and yarn-over over the purled stitch, slip the stitch back onto the left needle, pass the stitch and yarn-over over the stitch which was slipped back onto the left needle, and finally slip the remaining stitch onto the right needle (= 2 stitches decreased).

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off and the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.
NOTE: All stitch-counts given when working English rib are without the yarn overs, as they are counted together with their respective stitches.

NECK:
Cast on 78-82-86-88-96-100 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Beginning of round = mid-back. Knit 1 round then work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 3 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 2-2-6-4-0-0 stitches evenly spaced = 76-80-80-84-96-100 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the round, then work the yoke as described below. The yoke is measured from the marker.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 5 mm and knit 1 round. The next round is worked as follows: * Knit 1, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* to the end of the round.
Now insert 4 markers in the piece as described below (without working the stitches). The markers will be used when increasing to raglan.
Count 13-15-15-15-17-17 stitches (= ½ back piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch (= raglan-stitch), count 9-9-9-9-13-13 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch (= raglan-stitch), count 27-29-29-31-33-35 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch (= raglan-stitch), count 9-9-9-9-13-13 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch (= raglan-stitch). There are 14-14-14-16-16-18 stitches left for the back piece after the last marker.
Now work A.1 in the round. AT THE SAME TIME increase to RAGLAN as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

RAGLAN:
When you have worked 7 rounds of A.1 (and the next round begins with «knit the yarn over and slipped stitch together »), increase to RAGLAN – read description above (= 16 stitches increased on an increase-round).
Increase like this every 8th round (i.e. every 4th round with visible English rib stitches in height) a total of 7-8-9-10-11-12 times = 188-208-224-244-272-292 stitches on the needle.
Continue with A.1 without further increases until the piece measures 18-20-22-24-26-28 cm from the marker on the neck (the piece measures approx. 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm from the shoulder).
Now divide the piece for body and sleeves on the next round as follows:
Work 27-31-33-35-39-43 stitches as before (= ½ back piece), place the next 39-43-45-51-57-59 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 5 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work 55-61-67-71-79-87 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 39-43-45-51-57-59 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 5 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 28-30-34-36-40-44 stitches as before (= ½ back piece). Cut the strand. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 120-132-144-152-168-184 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 5 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; they will be used when decreasing in the sides of the body.
Continue with A.1 in the round as before.

DECREASE IN SIDES:
When the piece measures 8 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches on the back piece by decreasing 2 stitches in the English rib stitch closest to the purled stitch with the marker on each side – read DECREASE TIP; i.e. decrease 2 stitches towards the left at the beginning of the back piece and 2 stitches to the right at the end of the back piece = 116-128-140-148-164-180 stitches.
When the piece measures 18 cm from the division, decrease in the same way on the front piece (i.e. decrease 2 stitches towards the left at the beginning of the front piece and 2 stitches towards the right at the end of the front piece) = 112-124-136-144-160-176 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 28 cm from the division in all sizes (there is 4 cm left to finished length. You can try the garment on and work to the desired length).
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 1) – on the first round the yarn-overs are knitted together with the knitted stitches. When the rib measures 4 cm, loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 39-43-45-51-57-59 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles or short circular needle size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 5 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 44-48-50-56-62-64 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle stitch of the 5 stitches cast on under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Work A.1 in the round. AT THE SAME TIME on round 8 (i.e. on the 4th round of visible English rib stitches), decrease 4 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP (decrease 2 stitches towards the left after the stitch with the marker and decrease 2 stitches towards the right before the stitch with the marker).
Decrease like this every 8th-8th-8th-8th-6th-6th round (i.e. every 4th-4th-4th-4th-3rd-3rd round of visible English rib stitches) a total of 2-2-2-3-3-3 times = 36-40-42-44-50-52 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 40-39-37-36-34-33 cm from the division (there is 4 cm left to finished length. You can try the garment on a work to the desired length). NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) – on the first round the yarn overs are knitted together with the knitted stitches. When the rib measures 4 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 44-43-41-40-38-37 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

symbols = make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl
symbols = purl yarn-over and slipped stitch together
symbols = knit yarn-over and slipped stitch together
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 213-33) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Isabelle 12.03.2021 - 22:46:

Bonjour A 18cms je dois faire 2 diminutions sur le devant. À combien de mailles je dois les faire du marqueur (au centre des 5 mailles sous l’aisselle). Merci beaucoup pour votre aide Bonne journée Isabelle

user icon DROPS Design 15.03.2021 kl. 08:16:

Bonjour Isabelle, ces diminutions se font comme expliqué sous DIMINUTIONS (côtés pull et milieu sous les manches):, à 8 cm, vous avez diminué 2 m inclinées à gauche au début du dos, set 2 m inclinées à droite à la fin du dos; vous diminuez maintenant de la même façon mais sur le devant cette fois: 2 mailles inclinées à gauche au début du devant et 2 mailles vers la droite à la fin du devant. Bon tricot!

country flag Chloé 25.02.2021 - 00:50:

Bonjour, Je suis embêtée car après avoir fait "*1 maille endroit, 1 jeté, glisser 1 maille à l'envers*, répéter de *-* jusqu'à la fin du tour.", je me retrouve avec "1 glissé, 1 maille glissée" sur la fin de mon rang et après je dois refaire la même opération pour le début du rang 2. Dois-je faire 2 jetés consécutifs ? Et ensuite, les jetés et glissés suivants, je dois les tricoter en endroit ou en envers ? Merci d'avance pour votre aide ! Chloé

user icon DROPS Design 25.02.2021 kl. 07:33:

Bonjour Chloé, effectivement, quand on tricote des côtes anglaises en rond, on a, à un moment donné, 2 jetés qui vont se suivre: on termine le rang 2 par ex avec "1 jeté, 1 m glissée" et on doit commencer le tour suivant par 1 jeté, 1 m glissée, veillez à bien placer votre marqueur de début de tour au bon endroit pour que les jetés ne se confondent pas. Cette vidéo montre comment tricoter des côtes anglaises en rond - au time code 2:48 environ vous verrez la fin du tour 2 puis le début du tour 3. Bon tricot!

country flag Isabelle 22.02.2021 - 09:00:

Bonjour Tout d'abord un grand merci pour votre aide. Je voudrais faire ce même pull avec une laine moins grosse... Comment puis-je m'y prendre ? Merci beaucoup

user icon DROPS Design 22.02.2021 kl. 09:51:

Bonjour Isabelle, ce pull se tricote sur la base de 17 m x 22 rangs jersey = 10 x 10 cm, si vous utilisez une laine plus fine, votre échantillon sera différent et donc les explications ne fonctionneront pas (retrouvez plus d'infos sur l'échantillon ici. Choisissez plutôt un modèle adapté à la laine que vous souhaitez utiliser pour optimiser vos chances pour vous éviter d'avoir à tout recalculer. Bon tricot!

country flag Isabelle 17.02.2021 - 07:31:

Bonjour Je ne comprends pas, dns les diminutions côtés : « diminuer 2 mailles vers la gauche au début du dos et 2 mailles sur la droite à la fin du dos ». Qu’entendez-vous par début et fin du dos ? Merci beaucoup Isabelle

user icon DROPS Design 17.02.2021 kl. 08:29:

Bonjour Isabelle, vous avez 2 marqueurs pour repérer les côtés du pull = le devant et le dos se trouvent entre ces marqueurs; quand vous tricotez les mailles du début du dos, vous diminuez 2 mailles à gauche, puis vous tricotez les mailles du dos, et diminuez 2 mailles à droit à la fin des mailles du dos (on ne diminue pas les mailles du devant) - la fois suivante, vous diminuerez au début et à la fin du devant et pas sur les mailles du dos. En espérant que ce soit ainsi plus clair pour vous. Bon tricot!

country flag Petra 07.02.2021 - 11:55:

Missä kohtaa kerroksen vaihtumiskohta pitäisi hihassa olla? Ja kuinka sitten kavennukset saa poimittujen silmukoiden keskimmäisen ympärille niin, ettei kerroksen vaihtumiskohta häiritse tätä?

user icon DROPS Design 08.02.2021 kl. 16:44:

Kerroksen vaihtumiskohta on keskellä hihan alla ja kavennukset tehdään hihan merkityn silmukan kummallakin puolella. Lue myös ohjeen kavennusvinkki.

country flag Isabelle 20.01.2021 - 07:46:

Bonjour Merci pour vos réponses. Au début de l’empiecement, après 7 tours, on commence les augmentations. Je fais des côtes anglaises avec mailles doubles. Mon rang d’augmentations est un rang « envers »... ça ne pose aucun souci ? Avez-vous une vidéo pour les augmentations raglan côtes anglaises mailles doubles ? J’ai seulement trouvé avec jetés. Merci pour votre réponse. Bonne journée

user icon DROPS Design 20.01.2021 kl. 07:55:

Bonjour Isabelle, vous devez augmenter dans la maille endroit + son jeté (= la maille double pour vous) proche de celle (= envers) avec un marqueur. Effectivement, nous n'avons que des vidéos d'augmentation en côtes anglaises avec jetés, essayez sur un échantillon d'augmenter de la même façon (= tricotez la même maille 3 fois 1 x en double,1 jeté, 1 x en double) et au tour suivant, tricotez le jeté torse ou non en fonction du rendu souhaité). Bon tricot!

country flag Isabelle 16.01.2021 - 23:46:

Bonjour Je voudrais faire ce pull en côtes anglaises avec mailles doubles mais vous faites les côtes anglaises avec des jetés. Comment je peux faire pour modifier les explications ? Merci beaucoup pour votre aide Bonne journée Isabelle

user icon DROPS Design 18.01.2021 kl. 09:16:

Bonjour Isabelle, vous pouvez déjà faire un échantillon pour vérifier votre tension en largeur et en hauteur; il est possible que la quantité de fil nécessaire diffère - il vous faudra également adapter les augmentations/diminutions. nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande, n'hésitez pas à demander de l'aide à votre magasin, même par mail ou téléphone. Merci pour votre compréhension. Bon tricot!

country flag Isabelle 16.01.2021 - 22:57:

Bonjour Je voudrais faire ce pull mais... ça commence mal... Dans le paragraphe « col » il est noté « placer un marqueur en rond »... qu’est ce que ça veut dire ? Merci beaucoup pour votre aide. Isabelle

user icon DROPS Design 18.01.2021 kl. 09:07:

Bonjour Isabelle, ce "en rond" a été supprimé... Vous placez simplement un marqueur sur ce tour; ce marqueur va servir pour mesurer l'ouvrage; et vous tricotez, en rond, en suivant les indications de l'empiècement. Merci pour votre retour, bon tricot!

country flag Johanna 06.12.2020 - 22:42:

Raglansilmukoiden lisätskierroksella: mitä tehdään itse eaglansilmukoille? Neulotaan nurin vai tehdään ensin langanlierto ja nostetaan nurin neulomatta? Vai miten? Ja miten lisäyskierroksen jälkeisellä kierroksella viitaten ”raglanlisäykset”-kappaleen viimeiseen lauseeseen: miten nurin ilman langankiertoa - lisäyksessähän on tehty langankierto?

country flag Hanne 04.10.2020 - 13:54:

Kan jeg strikke denne i kun En slags garn kid Silk mohair ? Hvis ja - hvor mange tråde ?

user icon DROPS Design 06.10.2020 kl. 07:52:

Hej Hanne. Du kan sticka den i två trådar DROPS Kid-Silk. Se bara till att få den stickfasthet som uppges i oppskriften. Mvh DROPS Design

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