DROPS / 194 / 13

Sea Air by DROPS Design

Knitted poncho jumper with raglan in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with English rib in two colours. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-154
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-250-250-250-300-300 g colour 02, wheat
200-250-250-250-300-300 g colour 10, fog

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
12 stitches in width and 16 rows in height (seen from the right side, i.e. a total of 32 rows) of English rib = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for English rib.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM: length 40 cm for edges.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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ENGLISH RIB IN TWO COLOURS (in the round):
ROUND 1: Worked with colour wheat.
Work * 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit 1*, work from *-*.
ROUND 2: Worked with colour fog.
* Purl the yarn over and the slipped stitch together, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* (be careful; the last yarn over does not look like a yarn over, but the wheat strand is at the front of the piece, lay the strand over so that it becomes a yarn over) - read KNITTING TIP.
ROUND 3: Worked with colour wheat.
Work * 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit together the yarn over and the slipped stitch *, work from *-* (be careful; the last yarn over does not look like a yarn over, but the fog strand is at the front of the piece, lay the strand over so that it becomes a yarn over).
Repeat rounds 2 and 3.

KNITTING TIP:
If you are in doubt as to which colour to use on the next round, you can always see which colour the previous round was worked with by the colour of the yarn overs.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 68 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 4) = 17.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 17th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
All increases are made on 1 round with wheat.
Increase 4 stitches as follows:
Work 5 stitches in the stitch and the yarn over as follows: * Knit the yarn over and stitch together, but wait with slipping the stitch and yarn over off the needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle *, work from *-* a total of 2 times and knit together the stitch and yarn over 1 more time = 5 stitches (= 4 stitches increased).
On the next round work the increased stitches into the English rib. NOTE: work each increased stitch individually (do not work yarn over and stitch together).


DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
All decreases are made on 1 round of wheat.
Decrease as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread (without the yarn overs, the yarn overs between the stitches are also slipped), slip the next 3 stitches to right needle as if to knit together: Slip 1 knit stitch + 1 purl stitch + 1 knit stitch (= stitch with marker) = 3 stitches without the yarn overs. Then knit together: 1 purl stitch and 1 knit stitch (= 2 stitches). Now pass the 3 slipped stitches over the stitches that was knitted together (= 4 stitches decreased – not counting the yarn overs).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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PONCHO JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. First work the yoke, where you increase stitches for sleeves and body. Then divide the piece; the body is continued in the round with circular needle and the sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

YOKE:
The round starts in the transition between 1 sleeve and the back piece.
Cast on 68-72-76-80-84-88 stitches with circular needle size 6 mm and wheat. Knit 1 round. Knit 1 round and increase 4-0-4-0-4-0 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP-1.
Knit 1 round. Change to circular needle size 7 mm.
Then work ENGLISH RIB IN 2 COLOURS (in the round) – read description above.
Insert 6 markers in the piece as follows (all the markers are inserted in a knitted stitch of wheat): Back piece: Work 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches, work 1 stitch and insert marker 1 in this stitch (= mid back), work 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches.
Right sleeve: Work 1 stitch and insert marker 2 in this stitch, work 7 stitches, work 1 stitch and insert marker 3 in this stitch.
Front piece: Work 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches, work 1 stitch and insert marker 4 in this stitch (= mid front), work 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches.
Left sleeve: Work 1 stitch and insert marker 5 in this stitch, work 7 stitches, work 1 stitch and insert marker 6 in this stitch.
Work 1 round with fog (= 2nd round of English rib).
On the next round (= 3rd round of English rib) increase 4 stitches in each stitch with a marker (= knitted stitch of wheat) – read INCREASE TIP-2 above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Repeat this increase every 6th round of wheat (i.e. every 12th round) to finished length.
When the piece measures 31-33-34-36-38-40 cm from the cast-on edge (you have now increased approx. 8-9-9-10-10-11 times) there are approx. 91-99-103-111-115-123 stitches on the front/back pieces (i.e. the stitches between markers 3 and 5 = front piece and the stitches between markers 6 and 2 = back piece) and approx. 41-45-45-49-49-53 stitches on each sleeve (including the stitches with the markers) = a total of 264-288-296-320-328-352 stitches.
Cut the strand and displace the start of the round to the stitch with marker 2 (stitch with marker 2 = first stitch on next round). Now divide the piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Right sleeve: Place the stitches between markers 2 and 3 (including the stitches with these markers) on a thread for sleeve (= approx. 41-45-45-49-49-53 stitches) and cast on 7 stitches under the sleeve.
Front piece: Work English rib as before as far as the stitch marker 5 (= approx. 91-99-103-111-115-123 stitches).
Left sleeve: Place the stitches between markers 5 and 6 (including the stitches with these markers) on a thread for sleeve (= approx. 41-45-45-49-49-53 stitches and cast on 7 stitches under the sleeve.
Back piece: Work English rib as before to end of round (= approx. 91-99-103-111-115-123 stitches).

BODY:
= approx. 196-212-220-236-244-260 stitches.
Continue in the round with English rib and increase 4 stitches in the stitches with marker 1 and marker 4 (= mid front/back) every 6th round with wheat as before (i.e. every 12th round). In other words, increase 8 stitches each 6th round with wheat. Continue like this until the piece measures 24-24-25-25-25-25 cm from where the body was divided from the sleeves = approx. 244-260-268-284-292-308 stitches (after 6 increases on the body). Adjust so that the next round is a round with wheat. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches with knit. This is to avoid the cast-off edge being tight.

SLEEVE:
Place the stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 7 mm (= approx. 41-45-45-49-49-53 stitches) and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7 stitches cast on under the sleeve = approx. 48-52-52-56-56-60 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the knitted stitch mid under sleeve.
Continue in the round with English rib. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
When the sleeve measures 2 cm from where it was divided from the body, decrease 4 stitches in the stitch with the marker (= knitted stitch) – read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 4½-3½-4½-3-3½-2½ cm a total of 5-6-5-6-5-6 times = 28-28-32-32-36-36 stitches. Continue in the round with English rib until the sleeve measures 25-24-23-21-19-18 cm from where it was divided from the body; adjust so that the next round will be worked with wheat. Change to double pointed needles size 6 mm. Knit 1 round with wheat, the yarn overs are knitted together with the purled stitches. Then cast off with knit; make sure the cast-off edge is not tight. You can cast off with a size larger needle if this is a problem.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

= knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 194-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (19)

Torgunn 26.01.2020 - 15:41:

Hei! Jeg skjønner ikke hvordan jeg skal gjøre den første økningen, altså i omgang nr. 2. Jeg har lagt opp 80 masker, hvor mange økninger og hvor mange masker skal Det bli på pinnen etter økningen?

DROPS Design 10.02.2020 kl. 13:31:

Hei Torgunn. Les ØKETIPS-1 (jevn fordeling) i oppskriften. Du har 80 masker og skal øke jevnt fordelt 0 ganger i str XL. dette er 1. økningen i oppskriften i str XL. Om du mener 1. økningen i patentstrikk, altså 3.omgang i patentmønsteret– les ØKETIPS-2, evnt se Hjelpevideo under oppskriften: Hvordan øke i helpatent ved å strikke flere masker i samme maske. God Fornøyelse!

Anja Holmes 03.01.2020 - 20:55:

Hejsa. Er det mon muligt at bruge Drops Brushed Alpaca Silk til denne opskrift?

DROPS Design 31.01.2020 kl. 11:09:

Hej Ja du kan använda Drops Brushed Alpaca till detta mönster. Använd gärna vår omregner för att beräkna garnåtgången. Tänk också på att få rätt stickfasthet. Lycka till!

Genevieve Renancio 07.11.2019 - 12:01:

Bonjour,j'ai un petit problème pour installer les marqueurs,es ce que je dois compter les jetés comme des mailles à tricoter dans le premier rang de côte? Parce que la j'y arrive pas

DROPS Design 07.11.2019 kl. 12:08:

Bonjour Mme Renancio, les marqueurs doivent être placés sur une maille, pas entre les mailles, et les jetés ne comptent pas comme une maille; vous pouvez placer vos marqueurs avant de tricoter le tour, ce peut être plus simple, indiquez-nous la taille tricotée, nous pourrons vous donner le détail si besoin. Bon tricot!

Birgit Hagedorn 21.09.2018 - 09:26:

Når jeg følger jeres video om udtagning, får jeg på omgangen efter udtagning for mange masker på pinden. Iflg video strikkes der slå om, løs af, en vrang, slå om løs af, en vrang, slå om løs af. Det giver tre ekstra masker seks gange, altså atten masker for meget?

DROPS Design 24.09.2018 kl. 10:19:

Hej Birgit, du har 2 nye masker på hver side af midterste maske. De 2 nye masker danner en ny patentmaske på hver side af den du udgik fra. God fornøjelse!

Bodil 17.09.2018 - 21:33:

Jättebra videounstruktion om ökning! Finns det en med minskningsstickning också?

Kinga 09.09.2018 - 05:53:

Hei! Blir kastene i 1 omgang av Patent i 2 farger sett på som økninger i neste runder og skal de strikkes normalt da? Hvis de er økninger så har man altfor mange masker når man skal sette de 6 markene for å dele arbeidet. Veldig usikker på om jeg forstår riktig...

DROPS Design 10.09.2018 kl. 11:32:

Hei Kinga. På omgang 2 strikkes kastene sammen med den masken som ble tatt løst av, de er derfor ikke økninger. Her er en video av hvordan å strikke patent med 2 farger. God fornøyelse.

Daneel 30.08.2018 - 16:19:

Lovely pattern

Anne 22.08.2018 - 16:04:

Hei. Når jeg har økt 4 m i en maske, blir det 5 m totalt. Når jeg fortsetter på pinnen sier mønsteret at jeg skal lage 1 kast, 1 m løs av, og 2 sammen. På neste omgang får jeg da 1 m for mye når jeg skal strikke disse m inn i patenten. Hva gjør jeg feil?

DROPS Design 27.08.2018 kl. 15:57:

Hej Anne, se her hvordan du gør: öka i patent God fornøjelse!

Bodil 20.08.2018 - 08:11:

Hej! Jag får inte till att sticka in de 4 ökade maskorna i patentmönstret...vill få lite klarhet i detta om någon kan...

DROPS Design 27.08.2018 kl. 15:55:

Hej Bodil, se vår video hur du gör: öka i patent Lycka till :)

Sarah Bishop 17.08.2018 - 00:53:

I am really struggling with the tension. On round 3 of Fisherman’s Rib, the stitches are really tight when you knit the slipped stitch with the stitch together. Also the increase is very very tight making 5 stitches. On the next round it doesn’t seem to work making the 5 new stitches part of the Fisherman s Rib. Do you have photos or a video to show how this works?

DROPS Design 17.08.2018 kl. 11:01:

Dear Mrs Bishop, try to not tighten too much the yarn when increasing - on next row continue fisherman's rib over these 5 sts, slip 1 st as if to P with a YO as before and P the next st (instead of P tog the st with YO). Happy knitting!

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