Diamond Cut by DROPS Design
Knitted tunic in DROPS Fabel. The piece is worked back and forth with garter stitch, domino squares and stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-200-200-200-250 g colour 623, rose mist
100-150-150-150-150-200 g colour 655, wooden rose
150-150-150-150-200-200 g colour 905, salt and pepper
100-150-150-150-150-150 g colour 200, grey
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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:
KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 45 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for garter stitch.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
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DROPS Fabel 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide |
from 2.20 £ /50g | |||||||||||||
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DROPS Needles & Hooks | ||||||||||||||
NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
STRIPES-1:
* 1 ridge wooden rose, 1 ridge salt and pepper *, work from *-*.
STRIPES-2:
* 1 ridge rose mist, 1 ridge grey *, work from *-*.
STRIPES SLEEVES:
Work 15-15-16-16-17-17 cm with * 1 ridge rose mist, 1 ridge salt and pepper *, work from *-*.
Work 5 cm with * 1 ridge rose mist, 1 ridge grey *, work from *-*.
Work 3 cm with * 1 ridge salt and pepper, 1 ridge grey *, work from *-*.
Work 15 cm with * 1 ridge wooden rose, 1 ridge rose mist *, work from *-*.
Work 1 cm with * 1 ridge grey, 1 ridge salt and pepper *, work from *-*.
Work 8 cm with * 1 ridge rose mist, 1 ridge grey *, work from *-*.
Work 4 cm with * 1 ridge wooden rose, 1 ridge rose mist *, work from *-*.
Continue to finished length with * 1 ridge grey, 1 ridge wooden rose *, work from *-*.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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TUNIC - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle. You first work whole and half domino squares. Then work the shoulder and pick up stitches down the edge of the section with domino squares before working garter stitch and stripes out to the side for body and sleeves.
FRONT PIECE:
WHOLE DOMINO SQUARE (1):
Cast on 129-129-137-137-145-145 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and wooden rose. Insert a marker in the middle stitch of the row (= 64-64-68-68-72-72 stitches on each side of the stitch with marker). Work GARTER STITCH and STRIPES-1 – read description above and work domino square as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Knit.
ROW 2 (= right side): Knit until there is 1 stitch left before the marker, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches, knit to end of row.
Repeat rows 1 and 2, i.e. decrease 2 stitches in middle of square every 2nd row until there is stitch left on the row. Cut the strand and pull it through the stitch.
The domino square measures approx. 28-28-30-30-31-31 x 28-28-30-30-31-31 cm.
HALF DOMINO SQUARE (2):
Start from the right side with circular needle size 3.5 mm and rose mist and knit up 65-65-69-69-73-73 stitches (= 2 stitches in first ridge and 1 stitch in each of the next ridges) along the right side of the first domino square. Work STRIPES-2 – read description above and work a half domino square as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Knit.
ROW 2 (= right side): Knit 2 together, knit to end of row.
Repeat rows 1 and 2, i.e. decrease 1 stitch every 2nd row until there is 1 stitch left on the row. Cut the strand and pull it through the stitch.
HALF DOMINO SQUARE (3):
Start from the right side with circular needle size 3.5 mm and rose mist and knit up 65-65-69-69-73-73- stitches (= 1 stitch in each ridge until there is 1 ridge left and 2 stitches in last ridge) along the left side of the first domino square. Work STRIPES-2 and work a half domino square as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Knit.
ROW 2 (= right side): Knit until there are 2 stitches left on row, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2, i.e. decrease 1 stitch every 2nd row until there is 1 stitch left. Cut strand and pull it through the stitch.
WHOLE DOMINO SQUARE WITH DECREASE FOR NECK (4):
Start from right side with circular needle size 3.5 mm and wooden rose and knit up 64-64-68-68-72-72 stitches (= 1 stitch in each ridge) along the side of half domino square (2), knit up 1 stitch in the transition between the 3 domino squares and continue by knitting up 64-64-68-68-72-72 stitches (= 1 stitch in each ridge) along the side of half domino square (3) = 129-129-137-137-145-145 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle stitch of the row (= 64-64-68-68-72-72 stitches on each side of the stitch with marker). Work STRIPES-1 and work domino square as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Knit.
ROW 2 (= right side): Knit until there is 1 stitch left before the marker, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches, knit to end of row.
Repeat rows 1 and 2, i.e. decrease 2 stitches in middle of square every 2nd row until there are 47-47-51-51-51-51 stitches left on the row (i.e. after you have worked 41-41-43-43-47-47 ridges). Now work as follows:
ROW 83-83-87-87-95-95 (= wrong side): Knit.
ROW 84-84-88-88-96-96 (= right side): Knit 2 together, knit until there is 1 stitch left before the marker, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches, knit until there are 2 stitches left on row, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
Repeat these last 2 rows, i.e. you decrease 2 stitches middle of square and 1 stitch in each side (= 4 stitches decreased) every 2nd row until there are 3 stitches left on row.
Knit 1 row over all stitches, then work the last row as follows: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches = 1 stitch left. Cut strand and pull it through stitch.
BACK PIECE:
Cast on and work in same way as front piece.
LEFT SHOULDER, SIDE OF BODY AND SLEEVE:
Now work left shoulder, side of body and sleeve back and forth in garter stitch and work STRIPES SLEEVES - read description above:
Cast on 27-27-31-31-33-33 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and rose mist. Work garter stitch back and forth, AT THE SAME TIME at the end of each row cast on 1 new stitch. Work like this until you have worked 29-29-31-31-31-31 ridges and increased 29-29-31-31-31-31 stitches in each side of the piece = 85-85-93-93-95-95 stitches on needle. After the last row from the wrong side cut the strand. Leave the stitches on a circular needle or thread and work with circular needle size 3.5 mm as follows: Knit up from right side 92-92-97-97-101-101 stitches along the side of square (2) (see sketch) and use the next colour in the stripe. Continue from the right side over the 85-85-93-93-95-95 stitches on needle/thread, knit up 92-92-97-97-101-101 stitches along side of domino square on the other side = 269-269-287-287-297-297 stitches on row. Continue back and forth with garter stitch and stripes until piece measures 6-8-9-12-14-17 cm from where you knitted up stitches along the half domino squares. At the beginning of the next 2 rows cast off 46-46-48-48-51-51 stitches (= sides of tunic) = 177-177-191-191-195-195 stitches on needle. Insert a marker in each side of the piece (they mark the splits in sides and are used later in assembly). Continue with garter stitch and stripes and on the next row begin to cast off in each side for sleeve:
Cast off stitches at beginning of every 4th row (every 2nd ridge) in each side as follows: Cast off 5 stitches 4-4-5-5-5-5 times, 2 stitches 7-7-8-8-9-9 times and 1 stitch 14-13-12-11-10-9 times = 81-83-85-87-89-91 stitches. Continue until the sleeve measures 53-54-55-56-56-57 cm from the cast-on edge. Cast off. Make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight.
RIGHT SHOULDER, SIDE OF BODY AND SLEEVE:
Work in the same way as left shoulder, side of body (i.e., knit up stitches along the side of square (3)) and sleeve.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew seam in raglan line – see black star in illustration. Sew with rose mist and sew in the outermost stitch-loop so that the seam is flat. Make sure that the seam is not tight.
Sew sleeve seam from the cast-off edge at bottom of sleeve and upwards to the marker which was inserted before casting off 46-46-48-48-51-51 stitches for side in tunic. Repeat in other side.
NECK:
Start in the one raglan seam from the right side and knit up 118-140 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and wooden rose. Work 3 RIDGES in the round - read description above. Cast off with knit. Cut and fasten strand.
Diagram
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= knitting direction |
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= seam (raglan line - the sleeves are sewn to front/back piece here) |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 194-27) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (22)
Eva Torgunn Dalager
28.11.2019 - 16:33:
Jeg strikker diamond CUT. Skjønner ikke hvordan ermene strikkes. Min søster, som er er kjempeflink til å strikke, skjønte heller ikke dette. Det skal bli «trompetermer», men maskene felles jo? Blir smale armer! Skjønner heller ikke hvordan man skal strikke den delen på ermet, som man først strikker for å «legge vekk» mens man tar opp på siden til «halsdelen»
DROPS Design
29.11.2019 kl. 08:35:
Myrna
12.10.2019 - 02:31:
I was just asking if you had suggestions as to how i would turn this pattern into a cape. Whether to do sleeves and not sew them, or maybe leave the sleeves off and do another front and back and add to sides. I am going to try it and if it does turn out, i won't be sending you a photo of how i did it. Thought your comment back to me was very rude.
Myrna Laberge
10.10.2019 - 22:15:
I love this sweater pattern. I was wondering if it would be easy to convert it to a cape pattern? What would be the best way to go about this?
DROPS Design
11.10.2019 kl. 09:02:
Anna-Maija
02.10.2019 - 17:01:
Malli fa-413 Kuinka neulon dominoruudun nro 4 niin, että pääntie muodostuu; ohje on tässä tältä osin virheellinen - eli kuinka monta kerrosta/ silmukkaa työssä siinä kohdassa missä pitää muodostua pääntie toisin sanoen ruudun neule päätetään?
Joy Nicholls
30.09.2019 - 08:14:
What are the sizes on cm's? e.g haw many cm's is XXL which I think is my size. But what each are would be good. thankyou
DROPS Design
30.09.2019 kl. 11:47:
Anna-Maija Kivi
28.09.2019 - 14:30:
Ohje fa-413; ohje virheellinen sillä dominoruutu, jossa pitäisi olla pääntie käsketään kaventaa loppuun saakka (kuten dominoruutu 1 eli pääntietä ei muodostu; yritän nyt päätellä olka/hihakappaleen ohjeen silmukka/kerroslukujen pohjalta mihin saakka pitäisi ruutua 4 purkaa, että pääntie muodostuisi. Jos tähän saisin teiltä tiedon, olisi helpompaa...ja kannattaa korjata tuo ohje.
Marialuisa
15.04.2019 - 18:31:
Buongiorno, non è che per caso c'è un errore nella descrizione del quadrato domino con diminuzioni per il collo? Sono riportate la diminuzione di due maglie al centro e di una alla fine, sarebbero 3 maglie diminuite, mentre poi si dice che vengono diminuite 4 maglie ogni due ferri. Grazie.
DROPS Design
15.04.2019 kl. 18:51:
Anick
28.03.2019 - 21:42:
Bonjour à vous ! Je suis rendu aux manches et voulait savoir *commencer à rabattre de chaque côté pour la manche ainsi...... 5 fois 5 mailles , 9 fois 2 mailles etc....* -C'est toujours sur l'endroit du tricot qu'on rabat ??? -Alors c'est toujours du même côté qu'on rabat,ça va être droit pareil ???? Merci de votre temps Anick
DROPS Design
01.04.2019 kl. 09:56:
Sue
06.03.2019 - 17:33:
I would love to buy your yarn for this pattern,but I don’t see in reading the pattern WHEN to make the color changes. I’m buying 4 different colors as per the pattern, BUT again it doesn’t tell me when to change color ?????
DROPS Design
07.03.2019 kl. 10:13:
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 249 catalogues and 9183 patterns - 9175 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
If I do get it to turn into a cape, maybe i will sell the pattern.