DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.75£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Mountain River

Crochet blanket with stripes and lace pattern. Piece is crocheted in DROPS Paris.

DROPS 189-5
DROPS design: Pattern w-712
Yarn group C or A + A
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Measurements: Approx. 100 x 130 cm
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250 g colour 102, spray blue
200 g colour 17, off white
150 g colour 100, light wash
150 g colour 25, moss green
150 g colour 41, mustard
150 g colour 58, powder pink
100 g colour 21, light mint green
100 g colour no 60, dark old pink

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 mm - or size needed to get 13 treble crochets x 8 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.75£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

CROCHET INFO:
At beginning of every row with treble crochets replace first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches. Finish row with 1 treble crochet in 3rd or 2nd chain stitch from beginning of previous row (depending on whether previous round began with 3 or 2 chain stitches).
On every row with double crochets replace first double crochet with 2 chain stitches. Finish row with 1 double crochet in 3rd or 2nd chain stitch from beginning of previous row.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

STRIPES:
Stripes are explained below - rows are numbered in A.1, A.2 and A.3.
1-4: spray blue
5: powder pink
6: dark old pink
7: off white
8: mustard
9: light mint green
10-11: moss green
12: off white
13: powder pink
14: light wash
15: spray blue
16: light mint green
17: moss green
18: dark old pink
19: mustard
20: powder pink
21-22: off white
23: moss green
24: mustard
25-26: light wash
27-30: spray blue
31: moss green
32: dark old pink
33: mustard
34: powder pink
35-36: off white
37: moss green
38: mustard
39: powder pink

COLOUR CHANGE TIP:
To get a nice transition when switching colour work last yarn over and pull through on last stitch before switching colour with the new colour, then continue with the new colour.

TIP FOR FASTENING STRANDS:
To avoid sewing many strands after colour change work the first 2 treble crochets/double crochets at beginning of every row with new colour with double yarn (in the same colour). This is done as follows: Make sure to leave a long yarn end (approx. 20-25 cm) when switching colour, work yarn end together with strand from ball. Then place yarn end along stitches from previous row and work around it so that the yarn end is hidden inside the stitches. In addition should the yarn end left at the end of row also be placed along the stitches when turning the piece to work around this yarn end as well. The way the strands are fastened without using a needle.
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BLANKET:
Worked back and forth with stripes and lace pattern.
Work 173 chain stitches on hook size 5.5 mm with spray blue. Work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, 1 treble crochet in next chain stitch, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 129 treble crochets.
Read CROCHET INFO, COLOUR CHANGE TIP AND TIP FOR FASTENING STRANDS! Then work STRIPES - see explanation above, AT THE SAME TIME work pattern as explained below:
First row (work with spray blue): Work A.1A (= 2 stitches), work A.1B over the next 120 stitches (= 20 repetition of 6 stitches), work A.1C (= 7 stitches). Continue with stripes and pattern like this. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
When A.1 has been worked, continue as follows: * Work A.2A, A.2B and A.2C the same way. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.3A, A.3B and A.3C the same way *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total vertically, but last time A.3 is worked, finish after row 30.
Then work last row as follows with spray blue: 1 treble crochet in each of the first 2 treble crochet, work 3 treble crochets around every chain space the entire row and finish with 1 treble crochet in last treble crochet. Fasten off. Blanket measures approx. 100 x 130 cm.

Diagram

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet in chain stitch/chain space
symbols = 1 treble crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 treble around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = 3 TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER IN DOUBLE CROCHET: Work 2 treble crochets in next double crochet but wait with last yarn over and pull through on both these treble crochets, work 1 treble crochet in the same stitch and pull last yarn over through all 4 loops on hook
symbols = 3 TREBLE TOGETHER AROUND CHAIN STITCH/CHAIN SPACE: Work 2 treble crochets around chain stitch/chain space but wait with last yarn over and pull through on both these treble crochets, work 1 treble crochet around the same chain stitch/chain space and pull last yarn over through all 4 loops on hook
symbols = first row is not worked, it has already been worked and only shows how next row should be worked in stitches
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (6)

country flag Gassa Ingrid wrote:

Es sollen 173 lm angeschlagen werden. wenn in der ersten reihe eine Luftmasche übersprungen werden soll, soll dann auch eine luftmasche gemacht werden zum überspringen der Luftmasche? Ich denke ja, denn sonst zieht sich ja die Luftmaschenkette zusammen. Vielen Dank für eine Antwort. Ingrid Gassa

15.11.2019 - 19:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Gassa, es wird bei der 1. Reihe regelmäßig Luftmaschen übersprungen, und es sind nur noch 129 Maschen (= Stäbchen) am Ende der 1. Reihe - hier lesen Sie mehr. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

18.11.2019 - 08:17

country flag Ulrike wrote:

Hallo und guten Tag, ich würde die Decke gerne breiter machen. Habe ich richtig gerechnet, dass die Maschenzahl teilbar durch 12 sein muss plus 5? Vielen Dank für die Antwort

09.05.2019 - 13:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ulrike, wenn Sie die Decker breiter möchten, sollen Sie dann mehrmals A.2B/A.3B häkeln = 6 Maschen mehr für je 1 Rapport mehr in der Breite, so können Sie dann einfacher kalkulieren. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

09.05.2019 - 14:20

country flag Margo Molenaar wrote:

Ik lees in de eerste toer als laatste A.1c (=7 steken). Ik tel 6 stokjes en 3 stippelstreepjes boven elkaar. In de uitleg van het telpatroon zie ik die stippelstreepjes (die ook vaker voorkomen) niet uitgelegd. Wat is daarvan de bedoeling?

16.04.2019 - 17:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Margo,

Deze stippelstreepje zijn 3 lossen als er 3 streepjes staan, 2 lossen als er 2 streepje staan, enz. (m.a.w.: het streepje dat staat oor 1 losse, zoals uitgelegd bij de symbolen, kan zowel horizontaal als verticaal staan.)

21.04.2019 - 17:41

country flag Grethe Orluff wrote:

Hej. Har i et godt på et alternativt garn til dette tæppe, hvor man kan få tilsvarende farver? Jeg tænker ikke ren uld, men måske et blandingsprodukt eller evt. akryl. Prismæssigt gør det ikke noget hvis det bliver en smule dyrere, men det må da stadig gerne ligge i det leje i beskriver for dette produkt :-) Venlig hilsen Grethe

02.03.2019 - 16:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Grethe. Om du ikke vil ha 100% ull eller ull-alpaca balnding kna du feks se på Air eller Brushed Alpaca silk. Vær obs på at de begge har en ganske annerledes struktur enn Paris (Air er et veldig luftig garn, mens Brushed Alpaca Silk er et børste garn og derfor "hårete"). God fornøyelse

04.03.2019 - 14:14

country flag Federica wrote:

Vi ringrazio per aver messo gli schemi, che trovo molto più semplici da seguire rispetto alle descrizioni,purtroppo però non riesco a trovare nella legenda alcuni simboli presenti nello schema, tipo l’ellisse tutto nero. Inoltre nella legenda compare per 3 volte un quadratino vuoto con 3 significati diversi. Potreste per cortesia dirmi a quali simboli corrispondono. Grazie.

30.08.2018 - 17:18

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Federica.L’ellisse nero corrisponde a 3 maglie alte lavorate insieme in una maglia alta. Per gli altri simboli, potrebbero essere un problema di visualizzazione del suo browser. Verifichi che non ci siano aggiornamenti da installare oppure provi a svuotare la cache o a navigare con un browser diverso. Buon lavoro!

30.08.2018 - 18:44

country flag Annamaria wrote:

Questa coperta é bellissima. Vorrei farla di dimensioni maggiori 130x170. Potreste indicarmi le quantità di filato necessarie? Grazie mille!

06.07.2018 - 12:45

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Annamaria. Per un aiuto così personalizzato, le consigliamo di rivolgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

06.07.2018 - 12:54