DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.45$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Berry Wrap

Set consists of: Knitted hat and scarf with cables for kids. Size 2 - 10 years Set is knitted in DROPS Air.

DROPS Children 30-16
DROPS design: Pattern ai-006-bn
Yarn group C or A + A
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For the entire set use approx. 150-150-200-200 g DROPS Air.
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HAT:
Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/8 - 9/12 years
Fits head circumference: approx. 48/50 - 50/52 - 52/54 - 54/56 cm/ 19 1/4"-20"-21"-21½"
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
50-50-100-100 g color 14, heather

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 for rib – or size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.
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SCARF:
Size: 3/5 - 6/9 - 10/12 years
Measurements: Width: approx. 15 cm / 6'' Length: approx. 120-135-150 cm / 47"-53"-59''
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-150-150 g color 14, heather

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 / US 9 – or size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.45$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Hat: See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
Scarf: See diagrams A.2 and A.3.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.
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HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed. Cast on 80-80-96-96 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Air. Knit 1 round. Then work A.1 in the round over all stitches for 4 cm / 1½'' (= 5-5-6-6 repetitions of 16 stitches). Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Work next round as follows: * Purl 6, knit the next 10 stitches and increase AT THE SAME TIME 2 stitches over these 10 stitches *, work from *-* 5-5-6-6 times in total = 90-90-108-108 stitches. Then work as follows: * Purl 6, A.2 (= 12 stitches) *, work from *-* 5-5-6-6 times in total. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 15-16-17-18 cm / 6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4-7'', decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every purl section, decrease by purling 2 together (= 5-5-6-6 stitches decreased, A.2 continue as before). Repeat decrease every cm / ½'' but decrease alternately at the end and beginning of purl section, 5 times in total = 65-65-78-78 stitches. Then knit 1 round while decreasing 4 stitches over every A.2 = 45-45-54-54 stitches remain on needles. On the next 2 rounds knit all stitches together 2 by 2 = 12-12-14-14 stitches remain on needles. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten. Hat measures approx. 21-22-23-24 cm / 8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9½'' from top and down.

POMPOM:
Make a pompom with an approx. of diameter 4-6 cm / 1½"-2½'' and fasten it at the tip of the hat.
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SCARF:
Work piece back and forth on needle. Cast on 38 stitches on needle size 5,5 mm / US 9 with Air. Work first row as follows from right side: 2 stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation. A.3 (= 34 stitches), 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 4 cm / 1½''. Work next row as follows from right side: 2 stitches in garter stitch, purl 2, A.2 (= 12 stitches), purl 6, A.2, purl 2, 2 stitches in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue this pattern until piece measures approx. 116-131-146 cm / 45 3/4"-51½"-57½'' or desired length. Work next row as follows from right side: 2 stitches in garter stitch, A.3 (= 34 stitches), 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 4 cm / 1½'', scarf measures 120-135-150 cm / 47"-53"-59'' in total. Bind off and fasten the yarns.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 29.10.2019
SCARF: Work piece back and forth on needle. Cast on 38 stitches on needle size 5,5 mm = US 9 with Air.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Zdenka wrote:

Dobry den, mozno hlupa otazka, ale co znamena v navode "Následující kruhovou řadu pleteme takto: *6 ok obrace, následujících 10 ok upleteme hladce a SOUČASNĚ nad nimi přidáme 2 oka" to nad nimi pridame? Dakujem....

31.03.2022 - 06:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Zdenko, jde o to, že budeme přidávat 2 oka jen nad (resp. mezi) těmi 10 oky, která pleteme hladce (tedy ne v celé řadě, ale pouze mezi zmíněnými 10 oky). Hodně zdaru! Hana

06.04.2022 - 18:51

country flag Karen Pryal wrote:

Hi there I don't understand what it means by saying only 2 stitches to start the scarf then the rib for 4cm. I knit two stitches and for how many rows and I don't understand this rib.

11.04.2021 - 00:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Karen, the scarf is knitted on 38 stitches, You knit the two edge stitches on both side with garter stitch and between those knit the ribbing according to the diagram. Happy Knitting!

11.04.2021 - 03:39

country flag Undine wrote:

Gilt die Korrektur von Nadelstärke 5 auf 5,5mm beim Schal für alle Wolloptionen aus der Gruppe C oder nur für Drops Air? Ich möchte den Schal in Nepal stricken.

17.11.2020 - 12:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Undine, die Korrektur bezieht sich nur auf dieses Modell, dh der Schal wird mit Nadeln Nr 5,5 gestrickt - Nadelgröße anpassen damit Maschenprobe stimmt, ob Sie mit Air oder Nepal stricken, muss die Maschenprobe dieselbe sein, nur Struktur wird -wegen unterschiedlichen Garne - unterschiedlich. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.11.2020 - 13:59

country flag Adél wrote:

Dobrý den, ráda bych se zeptala, zda správně chápu návod A2, na vzorníku je zobrazen líc a znamená to, že zpátky pak pletu celou řadu obrace? Děkuji za radu. Adéla

08.11.2020 - 16:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Adélo, ano je to tak - lícové řady pleteme hladce, rubové obrace. Hodně zdaru! Hana

15.11.2020 - 20:21

country flag Fabienne wrote:

Bonjour, Comme dans ce modèle, dans le modèle Warmhearted Hat, il y avait un pompon de 4 cm de diamètre, mais il est vraiment petit. Ne s'agirait-il pas plutôt de 4cm de rayon ? Merci Fabienne

13.03.2020 - 10:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Fabienne, en fonction de la taille, vous pouvez le faire de 4 à 6 cm de diamètre, ou même plus grand si vous préférez. Bon tricot!

13.03.2020 - 10:30

country flag Kaj wrote:

Hoe maak ik ren vlecht middels A.2 1e naald aan de goede kant brei ik: 2 st r, 2 av, A.2= 12 recht, 6 av, A.2=12 recht, 2av en 2 r. 2e naald is verkeerde kant: 2st r, 2 av, A.2=12av, 6av, A.2=12 av 2av,2r. 3e naald: 2 r, 2 av, 4 op kabelnld voor, 4 r, kabelnld r breien en dan 6 av en dit herhalen. Dan kom ik op 2 sliertjes van iedere vlecht en niet 3. Ik begrijp het niet. Wat lees/ doe ik verkeerd. Alvast bedankt. Groeten

07.12.2019 - 22:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Kaj,

Om de vlecht te maken van A.2 (12 st.) zet je in de 3e naald van A.2 eerst 4 steken op een kabelnaald voor het werk, dan brei je 4 recht, 4 recht van de kabelnaald en tot slot de laatste 4 steken recht van A.2. In de 7e naald brei je eerst 4 steken recht, dan zet je 4 steken op een kabelnaald achter het werk, brei je 4 steken recht en tot slot de 4 steken recht van de kabelnaald.

In A.2 brei je dus geen averecht aan de goede kant.

16.12.2019 - 13:35

country flag Katarina wrote:

V ceskom navode je chyba vo vysvetlivkach Schema: - mate tam = 4 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici ZA práci, 4 oka hladce, 4 oka z pom.jehlice hladce - spravne ma byt = 4 oka hladce, 4 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici ZA práci, 4 oka z pom.jehlice hladce - inak z toho nebude "copanek"

29.10.2019 - 13:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Kataríno, díky za zprávu! Vysvětlivky jsou v pořádku - postup, který popisujete, nedává smysl: proč bychom oka odkládali, když bychom je měli hned plést? Správný postup je ten, který je uveden u vysvětlivek, tj. dopleteme k místu, kde se kříží copánek, 4 oka odložíme ZA práci, upleteme 4 oka dál v řadě hladce a po nich odložená oka z pomocné jehlice - jedině tak vyměníme pořadí ok (zkřížíme je) a vytvoříme copánek. Hodně zdaru! Hana

03.11.2019 - 18:58

country flag Francine wrote:

(suite) Je parle de l’écharpe.

12.08.2019 - 22:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Francine, si vous pensiez aux 4 m de chaque côté de l'écharpe, vous allez les tricoter ainsi: 2 m au point mousse (= à l'endroit tous les rangs), 2 m jersey envers (= envers sur l'envers, endroit sur l'endroit), puis A.2, 6 m jersey envers (= à l'endroit sur l'envers), A.2, 2 m jersey envers (= à l'endroit sur l'envers) et 2 m point mousse (= à l'endroit tous les rangs). Bon tricot!

13.08.2019 - 08:17

country flag Francine wrote:

Bonjour, est-ce que les 4 mailles en début et la fin sont tricotées comme elles se présentent lorsque je tricote À.2? Merci!

12.08.2019 - 21:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Francine, toutes les mailles de A.2 se tricotent à l'endroit sur l'endroit et à l'envers sur l'envers, aux rangs avec les torsades, vous tricotez les 4 dernières m du rang 3 à l'endroit et les 4 premières m du rang 7 à l'endroit. Bon tricot!

13.08.2019 - 08:14

FANI wrote:

I FIND THIS PATTERN NICE AND EASY TO MAKE! IT TAKES ME LITTLE MORE THAN 50 gr, FOR 3-4 YEARS,WITH BIG MERINOS! BUT I AM GREEK ! PLEASE TRANSLATE TO MY LANGUAGE, AND I DON'T WANT TO WRITE "other" TO COUNTRIES!

16.12.2018 - 11:52