DROPS / 67 / 20

Tanglewood by DROPS Design

DROPS Fair Isle cardigan in Alpaca

  • Tanglewood / DROPS 67-20 - DROPS Fair Isle cardigan in Alpaca
Sizes: Small/Medium - Medium/Large - Extra Large
Finished measurements: 92-104-118 cm

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
200-200-250 g. col. no. 7815, green/turquoise
100-150-150 g. col. no. 7300, lime
100-100-100 g. col. no. 3900, tomato
50 - 50 - 50 g. col. no. 2923, goldenrod

and use: DROPS COTTON-VISCOSE from Garnstudio
50-50-50 g. col. no. 06, rust.

6 DROPS «Telemark» button nr 611

DROPS 2.5 mm and 3.5 mm circular and double-pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Cotton Viscose DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
find alternatives
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 23 sts x 30 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm

Border: Knit 3 cm stockinette st, 1 row reverse stockinette st (folding edge - measure the work from here), 3 cm stockinette st.

Pattern: See charts (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is seen from the right side and is knit entirely in stockinette st.

Body: The cardigan is knit in the round after the border with steeks cut for armholes and at center front. Cast on 213-243-273 sts on smaller circular needles with green/turquoise, knit border - see instructions above. Change to larger circular needles; inc 3 sts at center front and join = 216-246-276 sts (the 5 sts at center front are for the steek and are not knit in the pattern).
Knit Pattern 1 over all sts (except 5 steek sts) 1 time, then Pattern 2 to finished dimensions.

When the piece measures 34-35-36 cm knit the next row as follows: 5 steek sts, 48-54-61 sts for the front, bind off 10-12-14 sts for armhole, 95-109-121 sts for the back, bind off 10-12-14 sts for armhole, 48-54-61 sts for the front. On the next row cast on 5 sts over the bound off armhole sts at each side (these sts are for the armhole steeks and are not knit in pattern). Dec 1 st for armhole at each side of the 5 steek sts as follows: 0-3-8 times every row, then 2-6-7 times every other row = 198-196-198 sts.

When the piece measures approx. 47-49-51 cm bind off the center 20-20-22 + 5 steek sts for the front neck = 173-171-171 sts and knit the rest back and forth on needles. Bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 3-3-3 times, 1 st 4-4-4 times = 153-151-151 sts. When the piece measures 52-54-56 cm bind off the center 33-35-35 sts for the back neck. Bind off at each back neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 1-1-1 time = 57-55-55 sts each side. Bind off when the piece measures 54-56-58 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 60-60-60 sts on smaller double-pointed needles with green/turquoise; join and place a marker at the join. Knit border - see instructions above.
Change to larger double pointed needles and knit Pattern 4 and then Pattern 5. After Pattern 5 is complete, the piece measures approx. 15-15-15 cm. Knit the rest of the sleeve in Pattern 2. After Pattern 5 inc 1 st each side of marker 14-16-18 times:
Size S/M: alternately every 7th and 8th rows
Size M/L: every 6 rows,
Size Extra Large: every 5 rows = 88-92-96 sts - knit the increased sts in pattern as you go along.

When the piece measures 50-48-46 cm separate piece at marker and knit the rest back and forth on needles. When the piece measures 52-50.5-49 cm put sts on a st holder at each side every other row as follows: 3 sts 2-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-2-2 times, 1 st 0-2-6 times, 2 sts 1-2-2 times and 3 sts 2-2-2 times. The piece measures approx. 56-57-58 cm.
Put all sts back on needles and knit 2-2-2 cm reverse stockinette st in green, increasing 10 sts evenly distributed across the first row. Bind off.

Assembly: Sew a marker thread in the center of the steek sts on either side and at the center front. Sew two machine seams around the marker thread, 1st seam = 1/2 st from the marker thread, 2nd seam = 1/2 st from first seam. Cut steeks for armholes and at the center front. Sew shoulder seams.

Button band + neckband: Pick up sts along left button band and around neck to center back. Pick up approx. 165 - 180 sts with green/turquoise on smaller circular needles. Knit Pattern 3, increasing 2 sts in the corner between button band and neck on the first row. Repeat the inc every other row. After Pattern 3 knit 1 row reverse stockinette st (seen from the right side) for the folding edge. Then knit 9 rows stockinette st for the facing in Pattern 3 but reverse the colors (start at the top of the chart and work down), decreasing 2 sts in the corner between the button band and neck every other row. Bind off.

Repeat along right front and neck, but after 1 cm space 6-6-6 buttonholes evenly distributed along button band (1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts, cast on 2 new sts over the bound off sts on the next row). Make corresponding buttonholes on the facing. Sew together the neck band at center back. Fold band against the wrong side and stitch down. Fold the borders at the bottom edges of body and sleeves against the wrong side and stitch down. Sew in sleeves, fold the seam allowance over the cut edges on Body and stitch down. Sew in buttons.


symbols = green/turquoise
symbols = lime
symbols = tomato
symbols = rust
symbols = goldenrod

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 67-20) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Silange 28.02.2021 - 16:17:

Peut on monter faire ce modèle sans faire les mailles steek étant donné qu il y a une bordure .

user icon DROPS Design 01.03.2021 kl. 09:34:

Bonjour Mme Silange, dans ce modèle, on monte des mailles steek pour la bordure du devant et pour les manches aussi. Vous pouvez tout à fait ne pas monter ces mailles steek et tricoter en différentes parties, pensez juste à monter 1 m lis pour les coutures lorsque vous divisez les devants et le dos. Bon tricot!

country flag Jane Walzl 11.01.2020 - 16:35:

When picking up stitches for the front band, where do I start? At the turning line of bottom border or at cast on edge? maybe better to turn hem up before picking up stitches?

user icon DROPS Design 13.01.2020 kl. 09:17:

Dear Mrs Walzl, yes pick up stitches on the folding row, then the bottom edges will be folded towards WS and you can place it in the front band edges. Happy knitting!

country flag Sally 03.09.2019 - 19:49:

Nå ok , kan se i har svaret på det samme på engelsk længere nede, men ingensteder i opskriften står der noget om at jeg selv skal gætte mig til at den ekstra maske skal regnes ind i mønsteret til sidst , for at få begge sider ens....i kunne jo så ha lavet en lille adskilt ekstra maske i diagrammet....eller skrevet det måske ;O)

country flag Sally 03.09.2019 - 19:37:

Der er en irriterende fejl ...slå 273 masker og slå 3 mere op på 1. pind efter startborden...fint nok , så er der som i skriver 276 masker hvoraf de fem skal bruges til klip....men mønsteret går over 30 m...og 9x30=270 og de 5 masker til klip.....så er der en maske for meget ;O)) så der skal kun slåes 2 masker mere op til ialt 275 masker som jeg ser det ???

country flag Mirjam 04.02.2019 - 14:28:

Kunt u mij vertellen waar bij de telpatronen van dit patroon de letters omg voor staan? Ik kan het niet vinden of kijk er echt overheen. Dank je wel alvast

user icon DROPS Design 08.02.2019 kl. 17:40:

Dag Mirjam,

Omg staat voor het aantal naalden. (Het staat er inderdaad niet bij hoor.)

country flag Gabriela Schwan 24.01.2019 - 19:45:

Vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort! Dann kann es ja weitergehen Herzliche Grüße

country flag Gabriela Schwan 24.01.2019 - 15:15:

Ab Reihe 7 der Ärmelanleitung verstehe ich nur noch Bahnhof. Irgendwas haut da wohl mit der Übersetzung nicht hin.

user icon DROPS Design 24.01.2019 kl. 17:01:

Liebe Frau Schwan, wenn die Ärmel 50-48-46 mist, stricken Sie jetzt nicht mehr in der Runde aber in Reihen (hin und zurück) . Wenn die Ärmel dann 52-50,5-49 cm mist, legen Sie die Maschen am Ende jeder Reihe still (= wie verkürzten Reihen). Wenn alle Maschen auf 1 Hilfsnadel auf beiden Seiten stillgelegt sind, stricken Sie alle Maschen wieder mit 2 cm glatt links. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Winnie 12.03.2018 - 12:49:

Kunne der sættes lynlås i denne trøje?

user icon DROPS Design 14.03.2018 kl. 16:13:

Hej Winnie, Ja og jeg er sikker på at det vil være superflot! Vi kan dog ikke hjælpe dig med hvordan man gør her under kommentarer. Men find en opskrift med lynlås og se der. God fornøjelse!

country flag Danielle 12.09.2016 - 16:35:

Bonjour, je n'ai pas compris comment relever 5 mailles "steek" pour les emmanchures. Comme je dois les reprendre sur les 14 mailles rabattues du rang précédent où dois-je les placer?

user icon DROPS Design 13.09.2016 kl. 08:49:

Bonjour Danielle, les 5 m steeks doivent être montées entre le dos et le devant, montez-les comme dans la vidéo ci-dessous (au-dessus des m rabattues au rang d'avant) et continuez l'ouvrage en rond comme avant, avec 5 m steek de chaque côté pour les emmanchures. Bon tricot!

country flag María 14.03.2015 - 00:50:

Hola, me puedes sugerir los colores para hacer esta preciosa chaqueta con la base de azul/turquesa mix en vez de verde? Y en vez de tomate y ocre algo en tono de lila?? Y sin viscosa. Muchas gracias

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