DROPS / 169 / 21

Piña Colada by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS skirt with lace pattern and overlap, worked top down in ”Safran”. Size S-XXXL.

Tags: lace, skirts, top down,
DROPS design: Pattern no e-245
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350-400 g colour no 17, white

DROPS HOOK SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 tr x 13 rows = 10 x 10 cm, or 1 repetition of A.1 (with 4 ch in ch-spaces - se explanation in symbol explanation ) = approx. width 9 cm and 1 repetition A.X = approx. 16 cm vertically.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 2 in all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Every row with tr beg with 3 ch. These 3 ch does not replace first tr. Finish row with 1 tr in 3rd ch from last row.
On each round with tr replace first tr with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
When working pattern work sl sts to the first ch-space on beg of every round before working 3 ch at the start.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. See diagrams for correct size.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 tr by working 2 tr in one tr.
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SKIRT:
Worked back and forth until vent mid back is done. Then work in the round. Assemble skirt with an overlap mid back of approx. 10 cm.

Work 233-250-280-308-331-360 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 3 mm with Safran - READ CROCHET INFO.
ROW 1: Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 3 ch and 1 tr), work 1 tr in next ch, * skip 1 ch, work 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 31-33-38-42-45-49 more times, work 1 tr in each of the remaining 4-7-2-2-4-5 ch = 198-213-238-262-282-307 tr and 3 ch at beg of row.
ROW 2: Work 1 tr in every tr.
ROW 3: Work 1 tr in every tr and inc 12 tr evenly in all sizes – READ INCREASE TIP = 210-225-250-274-294-319 tr.
ROW 4: Work 1 tr in every tr and inc 15-20-15-11-11-6 tr evenly = 225-245-265-285-305-325 tr.
ROW 5: Work 1 ch (replaces 1 dc in first tr), * 4 ch, skip 3 tr, 1 dc in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 56-61-66-71-76-80 ch-space with 4 ch.

Now work pattern, beg from arrow in diagram (= RS): Work A.1 (each repetition goes over 5 ch-spaces) 11-12-13-14-15-16 times on row, finish with A.2 around the last ch-space. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When entire A.X has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 20 cm in all sizes. Now continue in the round: Repeat A.X 1 more time vertically but on 1st round skip A.2, and then work only A.1 on round. NOTE: Remember that 1 ch extra is worked in every ch-space - see explanation in symbol explanation.

Size S, M L:
In size S, M and L finish on next to last round in A.X. The piece now measures approx. 36 cm in all sizes.

Size XL, XXL and XXXL:
Work all rounds in A.X, then work the first 7 round in A.X one more time. The piece now measures approx. 44 cm in all sizes.

Now work an edge at the bottom of skirt. Work A.3 – see diagram for correct size 11-12-13-14-15-16 times on round. NOTE: Round marked with star in diagram is only worked in size L and XXXL. In size S, M, XL, XXL skip this round and continue on last round in diagram.
Skirt measures approx. 39-39-40-47-47-48 cm. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Place right side of vent over left side so that there is an overlap of approx. 10 cm in all sizes. Or adjust as you wish. Sew the 2 buttons in the middle of the section with tr at the top of skirt. Fasten first button 1 cm from edge, fasten the other button approx. 8 cm from the first button. Button through a row with tr. Fasten off.
Since the skirt is see-through it is nice to use a underskirt/jersey skirt in another colour to bring out the pattern.

Diagram

= 1 ch
= 1 dc around ch-space
= 1 dc in st
= 3 ch
= 1 tr in st
= 1 tr around ch-space
= tr-group around ch-space: Work (2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr) around ch-space.
= 1st time A.X is worked: 4 ch. The remaining times in A.X and A.3 work: 5 ch.
= beg here
= this round is only worked in size L and XXXL. In size S, M, XL, XXL skip this round.
= round beg by working sl sts until ch-space
= shows where the button should be on skirt



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 169-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

NOEL 12.08.2020 - 23:26:

Bonjour, je fais ce modèle en taille XL quand je monte les 308 ml je me retrouve avec une chaînette de presque 180 cm. Ce qui ne correspond pas aux dimensions finales indiquées pour cette taille. Est-ce normal ?

DROPS Design 13.08.2020 kl. 09:35:

Bonjour Mme Noel, avez-vous vérifié votre tension? Si vous avez bien 24 brides x 13 rangs = 10x10 cm, alors vos mesures seront bonnes. On monte plus de mailles en l'air (308 en taille XL) que l'on aura de brides au 1er rang (262) car bien souvent, les mailles en l'air du montage sont trop serrées et pour bien avoir la bonne largeur, on va en monter davantage que nécessaire et en sauter à intervalles réguliers; le bord de montage sera ainsi plus souple. Si vos mailles en l'air sont aussi large qu'une bride, vous pouvez alors en monter le nombre nécessaire. Bon crochet!

Marina 15.03.2020 - 11:44:

Quanti punti di inizio x una bambina di 5 anni?

DROPS Design 15.03.2020 kl. 16:30:

Buongiorno Marina, questo modello è per adulti: se lo vuole adattare a una bambina può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

Maja 29.06.2019 - 20:44:

Jag har virkat AX på höjden 1 gång och ska nu börja virka runt men förstår inte hur jag ska göra övergången. Sista varvet slutar med en stolpgrupp (2st, 2lm, 2st) och början på det varvet, alltså där jag ska virka ihop, har 2 stolpgrupper. Jag har alltså 3 stolpgrupper på rad. Ska jag hoppa över en helt eller hur ska jag göra? Tack för fantastiskt fint mönster!

DROPS Design 02.09.2019 kl. 11:11:

Hei Maja. Det kan se ut som det blir 3 stavgrupper etter hverandre, men den siste stavgruppen i A.2 er på raden under. Når du begynner med A.X for andre gang, skal ikke A.2 hekles flere ganger. God Fornøyelse!

Trudi 09.08.2018 - 15:56:

Hoi hoi, ben het rokje aan het haken maar als ik rond moet gaan haken moet ik dan direct 10 niet mee haken of aan het einde maar dan vouw je niet alleen de overflap mee maar ook het rokje, daar komt dan toch een plooi in of zie ik het niet goed

Rosmari Granholt 05.04.2018 - 21:22:

Hvordan gjør jeg når jeg skal hekle rundt og rundt i forhold til kilen bak. Prøver å prøver men blir ikke riktig

DROPS Design 10.04.2018 kl. 08:12:

Hei Rosmari. Jeg går utifra at kilen du referer til er splitten, og den blir jo heklet frem og tilbake. Når det så skal hekles rundt skal du hekle A1 over alle maskene. A2 hekles ikke, det er kun A1, og du avslutter 1 omgang med en kjedemaske i 1 maske på omgangen. Splitten skal festes over hverandre med knapper under montering. God fornøyelse.

Lucy 05.02.2018 - 19:28:

Muchas gracias! Son hermosos sus tejidos, me encantan

Marie Præst 30.08.2017 - 11:32:

Hej Jeg forsøger forgæves at komme i gang med denne fine nederdel, men jeg har svært ved at forstå hvordan kanterne i starten skal laves. Mine kanter bliver meget uens, altså som om der lægges til i den ene ende og må at der er et stykke ind til man skal starte i den anden side. Kan det passe? Så vil det jo ikke blive jævnt der hvor man skal sættes sammen til lukning. På forhånd tak for hjælpen. H Mvh Marie

DROPS Design 05.09.2017 kl. 16:12:

Hej Marie, se videoen nederst i opskriften, hvordan man vender når man hækler stangmasker, så kanten bliver lige. God fornøjelse!

Annika Backis 17.07.2017 - 18:04:

Hej! Tack för ett jättefint mönster !! Passar perfekt jag använder 2,5 virknål det blev mycket bra! Har du samma mönster till en tröja eller topp?

DROPS Design 09.08.2017 kl. 09:10:

Hei Annika. Så hyggelig å høre at du ble fornøyd. Pr dags dato har vi ingen overdel med dette mønstret, men ditt ønske er formidlet videre til design avdeligen. Så kanskje ved en senere kolleksjon :)

Alena B. 04.06.2017 - 17:14:

Dobrý den, jak zde již psala Maria, vaše počty ok vůbec nesedí na požadované rozměry sukně. I při volbě menšího háčku a správně napjaté přízi bych se do obvodu sukně (velikosti S) kolem pasu vešla téměř 2x. Existuje alespoň nějaký návod, podle kterého bych mohla velikosti přepočítat? Děkuji za odpověď, Alena

DROPS Design 04.06.2017 kl. 21:18:

Dobrý den, Aleno, máte-li stejně silnou, resp. tenkou přízi a přesto je vaše sukně tak velká, že nejde upravit ani pomocí légy (zapínání), bude nezbytné porovnat váš uháčkovaný díl s údaji uvedenými u zkušebního vzorku a také v nákresu, kde jsou uvedeny výsledné rozměry sukně. Jakmile zjistíte, kolik ok vám vychází na 10 cm šířky, budete si moci spočítat i celkový počet ok a podle toho upravit vzorek (ubrat potřebný počer sekvencí). Hodně zdaru! Hana

Jolanda 23.05.2017 - 23:26:

Ik heb AX nu 1 keer gehaakt en moet nu in de rondte verder haken, wat wordt daarme bedoeld? hoe moet ik het patroon nu lezen

DROPS Design 24.05.2017 kl. 16:12:

Hallo Jolanda, Je begint a.h.w. weer opnieuw, onderaan het telpatroon (dus bij de pijl) en haakt nogmaals Ax. (maar dan zonder a.2, zoals in de beschrijving staat.)

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