DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!


Piña Colada

Crochet DROPS skirt with lace pattern and overlap, worked top down in ”Safran”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 169-21
DROPS design: Pattern no e-245
Yarn group A
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350-400 g colour no 17, white

DROPS HOOK SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 tr x 13 rows = 10 x 10 cm, or 1 repetition of A.1 (with 4 ch in ch-spaces - se explanation in symbol explanation ) = approx. width 9 cm and 1 repetition A.X = approx. 16 cm vertically.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 2 in all sizes


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Every row with tr beg with 3 ch. These 3 ch does not replace first tr. Finish row with 1 tr in 3rd ch from last row.
On each round with tr replace first tr with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
When working pattern work sl sts to the first ch-space on beg of every round before working 3 ch at the start.

See diagrams A.1 to A.3. See diagrams for correct size.

Inc 1 tr by working 2 tr in one tr.

Worked back and forth until vent mid back is done. Then work in the round. Assemble skirt with an overlap mid back of approx. 10 cm.

Work 233-250-280-308-331-360 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 3 mm with Safran - READ CROCHET INFO.
ROW 1: Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 3 ch and 1 tr), work 1 tr in next ch, * skip 1 ch, work 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 31-33-38-42-45-49 more times, work 1 tr in each of the remaining 4-7-2-2-4-5 ch = 198-213-238-262-282-307 tr and 3 ch at beg of row.
ROW 2: Work 1 tr in every tr.
ROW 3: Work 1 tr in every tr and inc 12 tr evenly in all sizes – READ INCREASE TIP = 210-225-250-274-294-319 tr.
ROW 4: Work 1 tr in every tr and inc 15-20-15-11-11-6 tr evenly = 225-245-265-285-305-325 tr.
ROW 5: Work 1 ch (replaces 1 dc in first tr), * 4 ch, skip 3 tr, 1 dc in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 56-61-66-71-76-80 ch-space with 4 ch.

Now work pattern, beg from arrow in diagram (= RS): Work A.1 (each repetition goes over 5 ch-spaces) 11-12-13-14-15-16 times on row, finish with A.2 around the last ch-space. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When entire A.X has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 20 cm in all sizes. Now continue in the round: Repeat A.X 1 more time vertically but on 1st round skip A.2, and then work only A.1 on round. NOTE: Remember that 1 ch extra is worked in every ch-space - see explanation in symbol explanation.

Size S, M L:
In size S, M and L finish on next to last round in A.X. The piece now measures approx. 36 cm in all sizes.

Size XL, XXL and XXXL:
Work all rounds in A.X, then work the first 7 round in A.X one more time. The piece now measures approx. 44 cm in all sizes.

Now work an edge at the bottom of skirt. Work A.3 – see diagram for correct size 11-12-13-14-15-16 times on round. NOTE: Round marked with star in diagram is only worked in size L and XXXL. In size S, M, XL, XXL skip this round and continue on last round in diagram.
Skirt measures approx. 39-39-40-47-47-48 cm. Fasten off.

Place right side of vent over left side so that there is an overlap of approx. 10 cm in all sizes. Or adjust as you wish. Sew the 2 buttons in the middle of the section with tr at the top of skirt. Fasten first button 1 cm from edge, fasten the other button approx. 8 cm from the first button. Button through a row with tr. Fasten off.
Since the skirt is see-through it is nice to use a underskirt/jersey skirt in another colour to bring out the pattern.


symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 dc around ch-space
symbols = 1 dc in st
symbols = 3 ch
symbols = 1 tr in st
symbols = 1 tr around ch-space
symbols = tr-group around ch-space: Work (2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr) around ch-space.
symbols = 1st time A.X is worked: 4 ch. The remaining times in A.X and A.3 work: 5 ch.
symbols = beg here
symbols = this round is only worked in size L and XXXL. In size S, M, XL, XXL skip this round.
symbols = round beg by working sl sts until ch-space
symbols = shows where the button should be on skirt
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 169-21

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Manuela wrote:

Ist es möglich ein Foto des Rockes von hinten zu bekommen? Ich häkle und stricke so gut wie nie etwas nach Anleitung, daher tue ich mir schwer diese Anleitung ohne Bild zu lesen. Ich brauche es um mir vorstellen zu können, worauf die Anleitung hinaus will

06.08.2023 - 09:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Manuela, das haben wir leider nicht, und den Rock haben wir leider nicht mehr, aber beim Ravelry können Sie einige Fotos von anderen Häklerinnen schauen, das kann Ihnen vielleicht helfen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

07.08.2023 - 10:22

country flag Bettina wrote:

In die erste masche in das A2 und dann kettmaschen

07.06.2023 - 09:27

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bettina, was meinen Sie damit? A.2 war früher am Ende den Reihen gehäkelt, wenn Sie in Runden häkeln, bei der 1. Runde häkeln Sie A.1 ( = AX) und am Ende der 1. Runde, anstatt A.2 wie zuvor häkeln Sie 1 Kett-Masche in das 1. Stäbchen am Anfang der Runde. Kann das Ihnen helfen oder misverstehe ich Ihre Frage?

07.06.2023 - 14:27

country flag Bettina wrote:

Wie fange ich an mit den zusammenhäckel und wie muss ich enden das A2 nicht mehr gehäckelt wird Mit freundlichen Grüßen

07.06.2023 - 08:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bettina, A.2 war am Ende A.x gehäkelt, und wird in der Runde nicht mehr gebraucht/gehäkelt, so am Anfang der nächste 1. Reihe A.X häkeln Sie A.1 wie zuvor aber am Ende der Runde häkeln Sie 1 Kettmasche in die 1. Masche der Runde (dann Kettmaschen bis der 1. Luftmaschenbogen - siehe HÄKELINFO. Viel Spaßb eim häkeln!

07.06.2023 - 09:12

country flag Bettina wrote:

Hallo muss ich anfangen bei der A1 seite zum runden also das schon auslassen häckeln und wie ist das gemeind mit den kettmaschen im muster

07.06.2023 - 08:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bettina, bei der 1. Reihe A.X enden Sie mit einer Kettmasche in die erste Masche der Reihe, und so häkeln Sie weiter in der Runde; bei der 8. Symbol hatten Sie bisher 4 Luftmaschen gehäkelt, nun häkeln Sie 5 Luftmaschen anstatt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

07.06.2023 - 09:04

country flag Bettina wrote:

Ich muss es 14cm überlappen ist das sehr schlimm

06.06.2023 - 15:04

DROPS Design answered:

Das sollte sicher passer - das können Sie schon mal sehen, nach einigen Runden. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

06.06.2023 - 17:16

country flag Bettina wrote:

Eine Frage habe ich noch muss ich wenn ich zusammen häckle in runden nur einfach weiter in runden häckeln oder was auslassen da ich ja 10 cm überlappen muss

06.06.2023 - 15:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bettina, häkeln Sie nur einfach in der Runde weiter, die obere 10 cm lgen Sie dann ganz einfach über einander für die Taille. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

06.06.2023 - 17:16

country flag Bettina wrote:

Okay 👍 Und dann in Runden das muster AX nochmal ganz wiederholen bis ich mit A3 fertig mache?

06.06.2023 - 09:53

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bettina, ja genau, beachten Sie aber, daß A.X soll mit der vorletzten Reihen enden, dann A.3 häkeln (aber nur nicht die Reihe mit dem Sternchen). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

06.06.2023 - 14:04

country flag Bettina wrote:

Wann muss ich in ganzen Runden häckeln also alles zusammen wenn ich größe M habe? Mit freundlichen Grüßen

05.06.2023 - 14:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bettina, häkeln Sie in der Runde erst nachdem Sie das A.X Teil vom Diagram einmal in der Höhe gehäket wurde (die Arbeit mist ca 20 cm in alle Grössen). Viel Spaß beim häkeln

05.06.2023 - 17:23

country flag Bettina wrote:

Hallo ist es normal das sich meine Arbeit in der 2 Runde AX biegt,also nicht mehr gerade ist?

05.06.2023 - 11:58

country flag Fia Älander wrote:

Hur Mäter man egentligen? jag är 102 i midjan, så jag virkade efter XXL. Men när den var klar så var den alldeles för stor. Fick göra ett överlapp på nästan halva bredden för att den skulle passa.

14.07.2022 - 09:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Fia. Måtten på måttskissen är på det färdiga plagget, men det är väldigt viktigt att virkfastheten stämmer med den som uppges annars kommer måtten inte stämma. Mvh DROPS Design

14.07.2022 - 13:03