DROPS / 170 / 25

Angelica by DROPS Design

DROPS pončo s krajkovým vzorem pletené shora dolů z příze "Belle". Velikost: S-XXXL.

DROPS design: model č. vs-018
Skupina přízí: B
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Velikost: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL

Materiál: DROPS BELLE firmy Garnstudio
600-700-800 g, barva č.01, bílá

DROPS KRUHOVÉ JEHLICE (60 a 80 cm) č. 3,5 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 22 ok x 30 řad lícovým žerzejem = 10 x 10 cm.

DOPLŇKY: dřevěné korálky – 10 ks.

Vyrobili jste si tento nebo nějaký jiný z našich modelů? Přidejte ke svým fotkám na sociálních sítích tag #dropsdesign - díky tomu je uvidíme i my!

Chcete použít jinou přízi? Zkuste náš převodník!
Nejste si jistí, kterou zvolit velikost? Třeba by vám pomohla informace, že modelka na obrázku je vysoká asi 170 cm a nosí velikost S nebo M. Pokud chcete plést/háčkovat pulovr, kabátek, šaty nebo podobný kousek, najdete dole pod návodem nákres s jednotlivými mírami v cm.

53% bavlna, 33% viskóza, 14% len
od 61.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Belle uni colour DROPS Belle uni colour 61.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
Jehlice a háčky
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 732Kč. Více zde.

Návod

VZOR:
Viz schémata A.1 až A.9; zobrazeny jsou všechny kruhové řady/řady vzoru nahlížené z lícové strany.
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PONČO:
Pleteme shora dolů, nejprve v řadách (= výstřih na předním dílu), pak v kruhových řadách na kruhové jehlici.
Na kratší kruhovou jehlici č.3,5 nahodíme přízí Belle 119 ok a pleteme vzor A.1; kruhové řady, ve kterých splétáme 2 oka hladce a nahazujeme, končíme 1 okem hladce. Po dokončení celé 1 sekvence vzoru A.1 (na výšku) pokračujeme takto: vzor A.2 (= 8 ok), *vzor A.4 (= 2 oka), vzor A.5 (= 8 ok), vzor A.6 (= 3 oka), vzor A.3 (= 17 ok)*, *-* opakujeme ještě 2x, pak pleteme vzor A.4, vzor A.5, vzor A.6 a vzor A.7 (= 8 ok). Pokaždé, když upleteme 1 celou sekvenci vzor A.4 až A.6 (na výšku), upleteme mezi vzory A.4 a A.6 o 2 sekvence vzoru A.5 více. Takto pokračujeme, až máme dopletené 2 celé sekvence vzoru A.2/A.7 (na výšku). Přízi odstřihneme. Nyní pleteme v kruhových řadách nad všemi oky, ale kruhová řada začíná před 8 oky vzoru A.7. Nad vzorem A.2/A.7 teď pleteme vzor A.3 a SOUČASNĚ nahodíme 1 oko mezi vzorem A.2 a A.7 (= středové oko ve vzoru A.3). V tomto rozvržení vzorů pokračujeme, podle potřeby převedeme pleteninu na delší kruhovou jehlici. Když upleteme sekvenci vzoru A.4 až A.6 celkem 6-7-8x (na výšku, v kruhové řadě máme nyní 504-568-632 ok), pokračujeme takto: *nad vzorem A.3 pleteme vzor A.9 (= 17 ok), nad následujícími 109-125-141 oky pleteme vzor A.8 (= 16 ok, 7-8-9 sekvencí vzoru) a SOUČASNĚ přidáme v 1. kruhové řadě nad 109-125-141 oky vzoru A.8 rovnoměrně 3 oka*, *-* opakujeme ještě 3x = 516-580-644 ok. Po dokončení celé 1 sekvence vzoru A.8/A.9 (na výšku) máme v kruhové řadě 712-804-896 ok. Upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu obrace nad všemi oky a poté oka uzavřeme. Pončo nyní měří asi 52-57-63 cm – měřeno uprostřed předního dílu.

KROUCENÁ ŠŇŮRA:
Ustřihneme si 2 vlákna příze, každé o délce 3 metry. Vlákna stáčíme pevně dohromady - jakmile se začnou samovolně kroutit, přeložíme je napolovic a necháme zkroutit znovu. Na každém konci uvážeme uzel. Šňůru pak provlečeme okrajem průkrčníku. Na každý konec šňůry navlečeme 5 korálků.
Ustřihneme si 8 vláken příze, každé o délce 20 cm. Tato vlákna protáhneme koncem kroucené šňůry a přeložíme je napolovic. Jedno vlákno obtočíme kolem nich a vytvoříme střapec. Další střapec pak vyrobíme i na druhém konci šňůry.

Schéma

= lícový žerzej (líc hladce, rub obrace)
= rubový žerzej (líc obrace, rub hladce)
= 2 oka spleteme hladce
= 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme
= 1x nahodíme mezi 2 oky
= 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 2 oka spleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme



Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS 170-25) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

nahoru

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

nahoru

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

nahoru

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

nahoru

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

nahoru

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

nahoru

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

nahoru

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

nahoru

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

nahoru

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

nahoru

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

nahoru

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

nahoru

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
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Komentáře / Otázky (78)

Kathleen 04.06.2020 - 19:20:

About A.8 and A.9: according to instructions, they are worked as follows: [A.9, (A.8 x n)] x 4, nwhere n = 7-8-9. In the first row, A.8 has 16 sts and A.9 has 17 sts, which yields a total of 516-580-644 sts. That's fine. In the last row, both A.8 and A.9 have 23 sts, which should yield a total of 736-828-920 sts, yet instructions state that there should be 712-804-896 sts; no matter how I look at it, I cannot figure out how you got to these numbers (they are not even divisible by 23!).

DROPS Design 16.06.2020 kl. 08:41:

Dear Kathleen, the last numbers of stitches has been deleted since they were wrong, thanks for your feedback. Happy knitting!

Françoise 06.03.2020 - 14:32:

Bonjour Désolée, mais je ne comprends toujours pas quoi faire des 11m en trop. Vous m'indiquez de tricoter les 2 premières mailles de A1 et de terminer par 1 m end. Cela fait donc 3 mailles. Il m'en reste 8. Que dois-je en faire? Ou faut-il tout simplement finir le dernier motif sur 11m au lieu de 18? Merci de votre aide. Cordialement

DROPS Design 06.03.2020 kl. 14:56:

Bonjour Françoise, techniquement A.1 se tricote sur 2 mailles, vous allez donc tricoter les mailles soit à l'endroit, soit à l'envers comme indiqué dans le diagramme et, au 6ème rang, tricotez: (2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté) tout le rang et terminez simplement par 1 maille endroit. Bon tricot!

Françoise 05.03.2020 - 17:20:

Bonjour Comment commencer le 1er rg? Vous écrivez monter 119m et tricoter A1 sur toutes les mailles, sauf que A1= 18m et que 119 n'est pas divisible par 18. Résultat j'ai 6 motifs et il me reste 11m. Que dois-je faire ? Merci de votre aide. Cordialement

DROPS Design 06.03.2020 kl. 08:41:

Bonjour Françoise, répétez simplement A.1 sur ces 119 mailles, et terminez par 1 maille endroit; autrement dit répétez 6 fois les 18 m de A.1 = 108 m, tricotez ensuite les 2 premières m de A.1 et terminez par 1 m end. Bon tricot!

Linda Rasmussen 18.08.2019 - 10:07:

Jeg er lige begyndt at strikke ponchoen. Er der ikke en pind for meget i diagram A1. Jeg mener, at de pinde, hvor man strikker sammen og slår om, skal være fra retsiden, men hvis man strikke alle 12 pinde i diagram A1 bliver første pind i de næste diagrammer fra vrangsiden.

DROPS Design 10.09.2019 kl. 15:15:

Hej Linda, hulpinden i diagram A.1 skal strikkes fra vrangen, da stemmer diagrammerne med at 1.pind skal strikkes fra retsiden når du kommer til dem. God fornøjelse!

Joëlle BOIS 26.03.2019 - 19:18:

Désolée mais je ne comprend toujours pas. le premier motif A2 +une maille+ A7. c'est ok Après vous me dites A4 sur A4 mais sur le dernier rang droit, le motif a4 fait 10 mailles et si je redémarre le motif il fait 2 mailles (idem pour les autres motifs). Sur le modèle, il ne me semble pas qu'il y ait vraiment de coupures. Merci beaucoup.

DROPS Design 27.03.2019 kl. 07:53:

Bonjour Mme Bois, effectivement, vous reprenez les diagrammes comme avant, mais vous allez maintenant répéter 3 fois A.5 en largeur, soit ainsi: A.4 (= 2 m), 3 x A.5 (= 24 m), A.6 (=2 m), A.3 sera aligné au-dessus du A.3 précédent. Quand A.4-A.6 auront été tricoté 1 fois de plus en hauteur (=2 fois au total), vous tricoterez 5 x A.5 au lieu de 3 et ainsi de suite, à chaque fois que ces diagrammes sont tricotés 1 fois en hauteur, vous pouvez répéter A.5 2 fois de plus en largeur. Bon tricot!

Joëlle BOIS 26.03.2019 - 13:56:

Je suis bloquée après le dernier rang droit. J'ai bien redémarré pour faire le motif A3 mais kje ne comprends pas la suite, il faut redémarrer par a4 (2 mailles), a5 (8 mailles) et a6 mais mes motifs sont alors complètement décalés. Pouvez vous me dire ou je me trompe.

DROPS Design 26.03.2019 kl. 14:28:

Bonjour Mme Bois, quand vous commencez A.3, vous devez le tricoter sur les 8 mailles de A.7 + 1 nouvelle maille à monter après A.7 (entre A.7 et A.2) + sur les 8 mailles de A.2 = 17 mailles, vous continuez ensuite A.4 aligné au-dessus du A.4 précédent (de même pour les autres diagrammes). Les tours commencent maintenant avant A.7, et plus au début du rang. Bon tricot!

Ewa Holmberg 09.01.2019 - 10:15:

Snälla hjälp mej med Angelica ponchon, mönstret efter sprundet förstår jag inte , A3=17m den delen går bra men sedan är A4,A5A6 som inte stämmer. Visst ska A3 vara mitt fram och bak , och på var axel, men maskorna där i mellan stämmer inte. Hur gör jag? Mvh Ewa

DROPS Design 15.01.2019 kl. 14:10:

Hei Ewa. Se svar på spørsmålet ditt under

Ewa Holmberg 07.01.2019 - 22:59:

Poncho Angelica.när jag stickat ner till sprundet,stickat A3 17 m, över A2 och A7.sedan ska jag sticka A4 ,A5 ,A6. Ska jag upprepa A3 ,A4,A5,A6 varvet ut ? Maskantalet stämmer inte hur än jag gör.snälla hjälp mej för jag vill ha denna poncho. Tack, mvh Ewa

DROPS Design 14.01.2019 kl. 14:27:

Hei Eva. Du strikker A.2 (siden av splitten) så gjentar du denne rekken: A.4, A.5, A.6, A.3 totalt 3 ganger. A.3 går over begge skuldrene og midt bak. Så avslutter du med A.4, A.5, A.6 igjen og så A.7 helt til slutt. A.2 og A.7 er nå på hver sin side av slitten midt foran. Når du skal strikke videre rundt strikker du A.3 over A.2 og A.7, og legger i tillegg opp 1 maske midt mellom dem = 17 masker (du begynner omgangen med A.7). De andre maskene fortsetter som før, men for hver gang A.4 og A.6 er strikket i høyden strikker du 2 rapporter mer av A.5 mellom dem. God fornøyelse

Päivi Keskinen 24.05.2018 - 03:35:

Maarit, ratkaisin ongelman. Eli A3 jälkeen neylo A4, sitten A5 kolme kertaa, jonka jälkeen A6 ja A3. Toista näitä. Kun olet neulonut A4 - A6 loppuyn lisää jälkeen kaksi A5 A4 ja A6 väliin.

Päivi Keskinen 22.05.2018 - 05:50:

Kun olen siinä kohdassa että olen katkaissut langan ja kerrosten vaihtumiskohta on ennen A7 mallikertaa, miten jatkan siitä? Kudonko ensin A3 ( aikaisemmin A2 + A7 ) ja sitten A4 + A5 + A5+A5+A6+A3 näitä 3 kertaa kerrokseen vai miten? Jos kudon A4 + A5 + A5 + A5 + A6 3 kertaa, tuleeko A4 ja A6 väliin kaksi langan kiertoa? Ja lisätäänkö kerrosten väliin kuinka monta kertaa 1s? Lasketaanko nekin mallikertaan?

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