DROPS Belle uni colour 53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen |
4.25 CAD /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Belle uni colour 53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen 4.25 CAD /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= K | |
= 1 YO between 2 sts On next round K the YO to make hole. | |
= K 2 tog | |
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso | |
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Venezia |
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Knitted DROPS jumper with lace pattern in the sides and A-shape, worked top down in ”Belle”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 168-34 |
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GARTER ST (worked in the round): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. GARTER ST (back and forth): K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. INCREASE TIP: Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row P YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of YO instead of front) to avoid holes. ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER: The piece is worked top down. Work first front and back piece separately, back and forth down to armhole. Then work in the round. BACK PIECE: Work right shoulder as follows: Cast on 17-18-19-21-21-22 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Belle. Work as follows (1st row = from RS): 3 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above (= towards the neck), work 13-14-15-17-17-18 sts in stockinette st, 1 edge st in garter st (= towards armhole). Continue like this until 4 row have been worked. On next row inc 1 st inside the 3 sts in garter st towards the neck - READ INCREASE TIP = 18-19-20-22-22-23 sts. Work 1 row from WS and put piece aside. Work left shoulder as follows: Cast on and work as right shoulder but reversed. I.e. inc 1 st before the 3 sts in garter st towards the neck on 5th row in stockinette st = 18-19-20-22-22-23 sts. Work 1 row from WS. Turn and work as before over all sts. At the end of row cast on 35-35-37-37-39-39 new sts for neck and then work the 18-19-20-22-22-23 sts from right shoulder on to needle = 71-73-77-81-83-85 sts. Work the new sts cast on for neck in garter st = 41-41-43-43-45-45 sts in garter st in the middle of back piece (includes the 3 sts in garter st worked on each side of neck). When 2 ridges have been worked over these sts, continue in stockinette st with 1 st in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 15 cm / 6" in all sizes, cast on new sts for armhole at the end of every row as follows: Cast on 1 st 1-2-3-3-2-2 times, 2 sts 0-1-1-1-2-3 times and 3 sts 0-0-0-1-2-3 times = 73-81-87-97-107-119 sts. Work 1 row from WS after last inc and put piece aside. Piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6¼"-6¾"-7"-7½"-8"-8¼" from shoulder. FRONT PIECE: Work left shoulder as follows: Cast on 17-18-19-21-21-22 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Belle. Work as follows (1st row = from RS): Work 3 sts in garter st (= towards neck), work 13-14-15-17-17-18 sts in stockinette st, 1 edge st in garter st (= towards armhole). Continue like this back and forth. When piece measures 7-8-7-8-8-8 cm / 2¾"-3"-2¾"-3"-3"-3", inc 1 st for neck inside the 3 sts in garter st towards the neck. Repeat inc every other row 4-4-5-5-6-6 more times = 22-23-25-27-28-29 sts. When all inc are done, work 1 row from WS. Put piece aside. Work right shoulder as follows: Cast on and work as left shoulder but reversed. When all inc for neck are done, there are 22-23-25-27-28-29 sts on needle. Work 1 row from WS. Turn and work as before over all sts. At the end of row cast on 27 new sts in all sizes for neck, then work all sts from left shoulder on to needle = 71-73-77-81-83-85 sts. Continue back and forth in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side and work in garter st over the middle 33 sts in all sizes (= the 27 new sts cast on for neck + 3 sts on each side of these). When 2 ridges have been worked over the middle 33 sts in all sizes, continue in stockinette st and 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 15 cm / 6" in all sizes, cast on new sts for armhole at the end of every row towards armhole the same way as on back piece, then work 1 row from WS = 73-81-87-97-107-119 sts. Piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6¼"-6¾"-7"-7½"-8"-8¼" from shoulder. Now work as follows: Work in stockinette st over all sts on front piece, cast on 5-5-7-7-9-9 new sts for armhole, continue in stockinette st over all sts on back piece, cast on 5-5-7-7-9-9 new sts for armhole. There are now 156-172-188-208-232-256 sts for body. Place a marker in the side of the work (or then after last stitch cast on) to mark where the round starts and ends. BODY: Then work in the round on circular needle. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Work 1 more round in stockinette st but stop 12-13-14-15-16-17 sts before beg of round. You have now knitted to the marker in the side of the work. Now work pattern as follows: Work A.1 (= 10 sts), A.2 (= 11 sts), insert a marker here, work in stockinette st over the next 57-65-73-83-95-107 sts, insert a marker here, A.1, A.2, insert a marker here, work in stockinette st over the remaining 57-65-73-83-95-107 sts. NOTE: Move the 4 markers upwards when working to make it easier to tell the section with lace pattern and stockinette st apart. No of sts in section in stockinette st on front and back piece is constant and inc sts in the section with lace pattern in the sides. Continue pattern like this until entire A.1 and A.2 have been worked vertically. There are now 200-216-232-252-276-300 sts on round and piece measures approx. 19 cm / 7½" in all sizes. Then repeat A.X vertically AT THE SAME TIME continue inc in diagram as before: I.e. lace pattern in each side inc with 12 sts and there are 2 eyelet rows (1 eyelet row = 1 dec + 1 YO) more in A.1 and A.2 in each side every time A.X is worked 1 time vertically. When piece measures 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm / 17"-17¼"-17¾"-18"-18½"-19", there are approx. 320-336-352-376-404-432 sts on round. Work 1 round in stockinette st. Then work 2 ridges. Bind off. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles up to sleeve cap, then work back and forth on needle. Cast on 53-55-57-59-61-63 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST in the round - see explanation above. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (1st st on round is mid under sleeve). Then work in stockinette st. When piece measures 3-4-5-5-3-5 cm / 1"-1½"-2"-2"-1"-2", inc 1 st on each side of st mid under sleeve (= 2 sts inc). Repeat inc every 5½-4½-3½-3-2½-2 cm / 2¼"-1¾"-1¼"-1⅛"-⅞"-¾" 5-6-7-8-9-10 more times in total = 65-69-73-77-81-85 sts. When piece measures 34-34-33-32-29-29 cm / 13½"-13½"-13"-12½"-11½"-11½" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), bind off 5-5-7-7-9-9 sts mid under sleeve and work back and forth until finished measurements. Bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: 2 sts 4-4-4-4-3-3 times and 1 st 2-3-3-3-3-8 times. Then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 42-43-43-43-43-44 cm / 16½"-17"-17"-17"-17"-17¼". Loosely bind off. Make another sleeve the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams tog. Make sure that to avoid a tight seam. Sew in sleeves in body inside 1 edge st in garter st. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (36)
Christie wrote:
Hi, I'm confused with the lace chart... in the first row of lace in a1 and a2, it appears I only need 1 eyelet to start but the sides are just knit. Is that correct, because when I look at the sample picture, there appears to be more eyelets? I'm just a bit confused with incorporating the lace correctly and also with the increases on the sides; should I increase and then k5, then make the eyelet? (First row of chart a1 and a2.)
24.10.2016 - 18:25DROPS Design answered:
Dear Christie, A.1 and A.2 start with 2 rounds K before 1st eyelet. The first st in A.2 is the middle st on the sides. Inc are done on each side when working diagram. After you have worked A.1 1 time in height, just repeat A.X in height until finished measurements. Happy knitting!
25.10.2016 - 09:00Kim wrote:
" When piece measures 15 cm / 6'' in all sizes, cast on new sts for armhole at the end of every row as follows: Cast on 1 st 1-2-3-3-2-2 times, 2 sts 0-1-1-1-2-3 times and 3 sts 0-0-0-1-2-3 times = 73-81-87-97-107-119 sts." Do I add on to BOTH ends each increase? I'm making medium and if I cast on 1 stitch 2 times, then 2 stitches 1 time and 3 stitches 0 times, that is only 4 stitches added on. I won't have 81 stitches on, unless I add to both ends??
06.10.2016 - 05:42DROPS Design answered:
Dear Kim, yes you should cast on new sts at the end of each row for armholes, ie on each side, in size M, cast on 1 st at the end of next 4 rows (= 1 st 2 times on each side), then 2 sts at the end of next 2 rows = 8 new sts have been cast off, 4 on each side. Happy knitting!
06.10.2016 - 09:23A De Groot-Posset wrote:
Hallo, ik heb deze trui gebreid. Hij is leuk geworden. Hoe kan ik deze trui het beste opspannen zodat het breiwerk wat mooier er uit ziet?
17.07.2016 - 14:28DROPS Design answered:
Hoi. Ik zou de wasvoorschriften voor DROPS Belle aanhouden (klik hier) en verder niet te veel rekken, maar plat laten drogen. Klik ook hier voor meer algemene tips over het wassen van onze garens
19.07.2016 - 13:42Marlene wrote:
Ich stricke diesen Pullover zum dritten Mal. Mit ist aufgefallen, dass es einen Fehler ab Wiederholung AX gibt und zwar muss zusätzlich eine Masche vor der Mitte zugenommen werden muss. Ist das schon mal aufgefallen. MfG Marlene
12.06.2016 - 22:34Maria wrote:
Det forstaar jeg ikke. I diagrammet A2 hvor det er "en lös maske, 2 rette sammen og den löse masken over" , markert med en svart trekant, er det et kast paa hver side av denne trekanten. Et kast paa slutten i A1 og et kast i A2 etter trekanten.
27.05.2016 - 14:32Maria wrote:
I diagrammet A1, nest siste rad skal det ikke väre tilsammen 7 kast?
27.05.2016 - 11:40DROPS Design answered:
Hej Maria. Nej, det er korrekt. Du kommer til at stemme, naar du strikker A.2 (antal masker)
27.05.2016 - 12:28Marijke Wauman wrote:
Kan het zijn dat er in de laatste rij van patroon A1 een omslag te weinig staat? Na de laatste afhaling is er 1 steek rechts en dan moet er volgens mij een omslag komen, want anders klopt de volgende rij niet.
27.04.2016 - 16:09DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Marijke. Het patroon klopt. Je hebt 1 st meer bij A.X in A.2, je breit de twee patronen naast elkaar, dus in totaal kloppen het aantal st.
18.05.2016 - 16:38Maria wrote:
Sono arrivata benissimo fino ad avere 200 m sul corpo, ma da qui non riesco assolutamente a capire come proseguire. Non capisco proprio la spiegazione: devo ripetere AX , ma come faccio? Mi sfugge proprio il significato della spiegazione. Potere aiutarmi per favore? Grazie mille maria
01.04.2016 - 15:06DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Maria. Quando ricomincia il diag.Ax (di A1) lavora tutte le m del motivo traforato come già impostato, dopo l'ultima m a dir lavora 1 m gettata e poi inizia con il diag.Ax (di A2) quindi con 1 m dir, 1 gettata e prosegue con il motivo traforato fino al segnapunti. La parte traforata in questo modo continua ad aumentare. Buon lavoro!
01.04.2016 - 15:46Sabrina Poggi wrote:
Line not clear: after working AX first time, how do I increase stitches? Do I repeat just the AX rows and increase happens on its own? Or do I add stitches? Thx.
27.03.2016 - 04:37DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Poggi, after you have worked A.X 1 time in height, repeat lace pattern as before with inc as before too (inc are included in diagram), ie repeat A.X in height with lace pattern and inc as before. Happy knitting!
29.03.2016 - 09:46Kamy wrote:
Impatiente de le commencer...
26.01.2016 - 15:41