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Mandarina by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS top with trebles, lace pattern and ties at the back, worked top down in ”Muskat”. Size S-XXXL.

Keywords: bikini, halter neck, lace, top, top down

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DROPS 170-16
DROPS design: Pattern no r-685
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour no 49, dark orange

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 18 tr x 9 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 1.85 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.85 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.55£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
At beg of every row with tr work 5 ch to turn with. These 5 ch do not replace first tr.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.
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TOP:
Worked back and forth, top down.

Work 42-44-44-47-47-49 loose ch (incl 1 ch to turn with) on hook size 4 mm with Muskat. Turn and work as follows: Work 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook (= 1 dc + 1 ch to turn with), work 1 dc in each of the next 2-4-4-2-2-4 ch, * skip 1 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* 6-6-6-7-7-7 more times, work 1 dc in each of the remaining 2 ch = 33-35-35-37-37-39 dc. Turn and work pattern as follows: Work A.1 over the first 11 dc, A.2 (= 2 dc) 6-7-7-8-8-9 times in width, A.3 over the remaining 10 dc - READ CROCHET TIP! REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When diagram A.1 to A.3 have been worked vertically, continue pattern and inc the same way until 13-14-14-15-16-17 rows have been worked in total. There are now 71-77-77-81-85-85 tr/ch on row. Inc in each side of A.1 and A.3 is now done but lace pattern continue to decrease inwards into a tip mid front and work as follows: Work 27-30-37-44-49-57 ch (incl 5 ch to turn with), turn and work as follows: Work 1 tr in 6th ch from hook, then work 1 tr in each of the next 1-4-6-3-3-6 ch, * skip 1 ch, work 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* 3-3-4-6-7-8 more times, continue pattern as before over the 71-77-77-81-85-85 tr, then work 27-30-37-44-49-57 ch (incl 5 ch to turn with). Turn and work as follows: Work 1 tr in 6th ch from hook, then work 1 tr in each of the next 1-4-6-3-3-6 ch, * skip 1 ch, work 1 tr in each of the next 4 tr *, repeat from *-* 3-3-4-6-7-8 more times, continue pattern as before over the 71-77-77-81-85-85 tr, then work 1 tr in each of the remaining tr on row = 107-119-131-145-157-171 sts tr/ch.
Continue with 1 tr in every tr and continue to dec lace pattern mid front into a tip. When 4 ch-spaces remain, finish pattern as shown in diagram A.4. Then work 1 tr in every tr until piece measures 24-26-28-30-32-34 cm from cast-on edge mid front. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the outermost 2 cm in each side in on the back of top and sew small stitches through both layers to make a tunnel to thread the tie through.

TIE:
Work 1 loose tie as follows: Work ch with Muskat on hook size 4 mm until the tie measures 140-150-160-170-180-190 cm, turn and work 1 sl st in every ch but make sure that the sl sts are not worked tighter than ch. Fasten off. Work another tie the same way.

Beg from RS and thread one of the end on tie through outermost hole, around tr and through the other hole (= 2 tie ends out towards RS). Adjust tie so that ends are the same length, then thread the 2 ends through loop on WS and tighten. Repeat in the other side. Then place ties in a cross on the back before threading them through curtain hem - see illustration. Fasten top by making a knot.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.08.2017
TOP:...Work 27-30-37-44-49-57 ch (incl 5 ch to turn with), turn and work as follows: Work 1 tr in 6th ch from hook, then work 1 tr in each of the next 1-4-6-3-3-6 ch, * skip 1 ch, work 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *...

Diagram

symbols = 1 tr in tr/dc
symbols = 1 tr around ch/ch-space
symbols = 5 ch - READ CROCHET INFO!
symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = illustration show back on top and how to thread the ties
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 170-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (68)

country flag Hannah wrote:

Ist es schlimm, wenn bei der Maschenprobe statt 10cm 12 cm rauskommt? Wie kann ich die Anleitung dahingegen anpassen?

20.06.2023 - 00:43

DROPS Design answered:

Lieve Hannah, sollte Ihre Maschenprobe nicht stimmen, dann stimmen die fertigen Maßnahmen auch nicht; versuchen Sie mit einer dünneren Häkelnadel - Hier lesen Sie mehr. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

20.06.2023 - 08:05

country flag Ana Aguilar wrote:

Hola, estoy haciendo el modelo en talla chica, pero no coinciden los puntos, es decir, monté 44 puntos y en el diagrama solo son 33,

03.04.2023 - 00:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ana, en la talla S montas 42 puntos de cadeneta, pero a partir de ellos solo sacas 33 puntos bajos (la cadeneta se trabaja más larga para que no quede muy tenso el borde de montaje). En la talla M montarías 44 puntos y te quedarían 35 puntos bajos.

07.04.2023 - 00:04

country flag Marion wrote:

Hallo Arbeitet man nun nach der Hauptanleitung oder der korrigierten, angefangen mit: "TOP: ... 27-30-37-44-49-57 Lm häkeln (einschl. 5 Lm zum Wenden)"? LG,Marion

28.02.2023 - 11:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Marion, die Korrektur gilt nur, wenn Sie die Anleitung davor ausgedruckt haben, sonnst ist die Anleitung so richtig. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

28.02.2023 - 11:16

country flag Ulrike wrote:

Hallo, sollen die 42 Anfangsmaschen ( Gr. M ) 19 cm ergeben? Vielen Dank

27.06.2022 - 14:16

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ulrike, da die Luftmaschenkette ist öfter zu eng, häkelt man hier mehr Luftmaschen (= 44 Lm) als man Maschen (= 35) braucht, und bei der 1. Reihe werden Lm regelmäßig verteilt übersprungen, so daß nur 35 fM bleiben (= ca 19 cm). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

27.06.2022 - 15:38

country flag Marianne wrote:

Après avoir passé plus d'une heure à essayer de déchiffrer le patron, je lâche l'affaire. On n'y trouve aucune explication précise. Les vidéos sont sensées être explicatives et aidées à comprendre les points mais on ne voit même pas ce qu'elle fait (s'il faut piquer dans la maille arrière ou la maille entière), aucune explications vocales. Je suis très déçue.

25.06.2022 - 16:25

country flag Sara wrote:

Le misure/numeri non sono corretti: nella taglia S, cominciando con 42 cat il lato superiore misura in effetti 18 cm, ma alla fine del motivo centrale misura 45 cm e non 39 come indicato, e con un laterale misura 60 cm e non 55. Ma il problema maggiore sono i cordini: 140 cat sono troppo poche! con 240 cat può andare, ma comunque è ben più corto del modello! Infine, bastano 100 g di Muskat non 150 g.

22.05.2022 - 15:49

country flag Ruby wrote:

Is the chain meant to count as the first row in the "rows worked in total"? I'm making the second size and I've reached the row with stitches (counting the beginning ch5 as individual chains). I'm at 13 rows if you do not count the chain. My lace has 4 dc posts, so if I continue on I will end up on A4 during the rows with the large chains to make the sides. I'm measuring right on the bottom (neck) edge but too short on the top.

16.05.2022 - 08:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Ruby, No, the chain stitches do not count as a row. Happy crocheting!

16.05.2022 - 08:58

country flag Anita Vogler wrote:

Wie wird genau Rücken angeschlagen? Wie aufgeführt fehlt auf einer Seite 1 Reihe. Immer 6 LM beim wenden, braucht dochkeine Bögen wenn umgehnäht wird?

17.03.2022 - 16:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Vogler, Rücken und Vorderteil werden in nur einem Teil zusammen gehäkelt. Siehe Maßskizze. Nach allen Zunahmen, häkeln Sie 27 bis 57 Lm (siehe Größe) beidseitig, so häkeln Sie damit beide 1/2 Rückenteil. Am Anfang jeder Reihe mit Stb häkelt man 5 Luftmaschen, damit die Anfang der Reihen nicht zu eng sind. Sollte es für Sie zu locker sein, können Sie weniger häkeln. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

17.03.2022 - 17:23

country flag Anka Krol wrote:

Het geluid staat niet aan bij de instructie video’s. Alle apparaten geprobeerd, iphone, laptop en computer.

01.07.2021 - 09:01

country flag Nerea wrote:

Buona sera. Sto provando a fare il modello mandarina. La spiegazione del modello ha qualcosa che non torna. Gli aumenti ai lati, nella parte dx sono in un giro, quelli della parte sx nel giro dopo. C'è qualcosa che non torna nella traduzione. Grazie

12.06.2021 - 22:07

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Nerea, ci può spiegare esattamente qual è il suo dubbio? Buon lavoro!

14.06.2021 - 22:28

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