DROPS / 165 / 32

So Cosy by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS tights with rib in "Fabel". Size: S - XXXL.

Tags: pants, top down,
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-318
Yarn group A
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Hip circumference: approx. 82 - 90 - 98 - 108 - 116 - 130 cm.
NOTE: Measure approx. 10 cm below the belly button, not at the broadest part. Because of rib the tights will contract but will be very elastic, work in size you usually use.
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-500-550 g colour no 904, lavender

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 40 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 35 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Inc on each side of 2 K sts by working 1 YO. On next round work YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st). Work the inc sts in rib, i.e. K first 2 sts inc, and P the next 2 sts etc.

Work until 2 sts remain before marker, then K 2 tog and K 2 twisted tog (work in back loop of st) (= 2 sts dec).

Worked in the round, top down. Rounds start mid back. Cast on 216-240-256-280-304-344 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Fabel. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid back) and 1 marker after 108-120-128-140-152-172 sts (= mid front). Work rib from mid back as follows: K 1, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with P 2 and K 1. When piece measures 5 cm, work an elevation at the back as follows: Work 11 sts in rib, turn, tighten yarn, work 22 sts in rib on return, turn, tighten yarn, work 32 sts in rib. Continue like this by working 10 sts more on every turn until a total of 162-182-202-202-242-262 sts have been worked. Turn, continue in the round over all sts again until piece measures 21-23-24-26-28-30 cm mid front. On next round, inc 1 st on each side of the middle 2 sts at the front and back – SEE INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc on every other round a total of 10-10-12-12-13-13 times = 256-280-304-328-356-396 sts. When piece measures 27-29-31-33-35-37 cm mid front, cast off the first 7-7-7-9-9-9 sts, slip 114-126-138-146-160-180 sts on 1 stitch holder (= leg), leave the next 14-14-14-18-18-18 sts on the needle (= gusset), slip 114-126-138-146-160-180 sts on 1 stitch holder (= leg), cast off the remaining 7-7-7-9-9-9 sts. Then work 9-10-11-12-13-14 cm rib over the 14-14-14-18-18-18 sts for gusset, cast off with K over K and P over P and fasten them to the 14-14-14-18-18-18 sts cast off mid back.

Slip the 114-126-138-146-160-180 sts from one stitch holder on a short circular needle size 2,5 mm, pick in addition up 22-26-30-34-36-36 sts along one side of the gusset = 136-152-168-180-196-216 sts. Continue rib - insert 1 marker on inside of leg. When leg measures 5 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec every 10th-8th-6th-6th-5th-4th round 24-30-36-40-46-54 times in total = 88-92-96-100-104-108 sts. When leg measures 78-79-80-81-82-83 cm (try when working, adjust leg length), loosely cast off with K over K and P over P.

Slip sts from the other leg back on needle and work as first leg.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 165-32) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (76)

Sóveig Steingrímsdóttir 09.01.2020 - 19:54:

Prjónaðar Drops leggings fyrir herra úr Fabel s eða m stærð langar að vita hvað fer mikið garn í þetta

DROPS Design 13.01.2020 kl. 10:24:

Þetta mynstur er einungis gefið upp í dömu stærð á síðunni okkar. Þú getur fengið leiðbeiningar um breytingu á efnismagni í næstu DROPS verslun.

Tarja Björklund 01.01.2020 - 08:28:

Hei, tein kahdet housut tällä mallilla peräkkäin, ensin m koko ja sitten s koko. Kummassakin vyötäröstä tuli aivan liian iso. Sopisivat raskaus vatsalle. Mitä kannattaisi tehdä, että tulisi istuvammat. Vaikea sanoa onnistuisiko vähentää kaikkia silmukoita vielä yhden koon verran, mahtuisiko sitten jalkaan. Joustinneulesta on vaikea sanoa. Onko muilla ollut samaa ongelmaa

Irene Van Der Zwan 28.12.2019 - 18:41:

Ik was al een eindje op weg (5cm beide pijpen), toen ik er achter kwam dat Fabel (grijs) niet kriebelvrij is. Op je benen en voeten (heb al sokken van Fabel) geen probleem, maar bij een legging wel. Met name op de buik is de kriebel te erg. Zelfs met een t-shirt eronder. Zal wellicht aan mij liggen, maar dus een tip voor iedereen die wel eens last heeft van kriebel-wol: EERST DE KRIEBELTEST DOEN!

Heidi 13.11.2019 - 18:18:

Strikkes denne i vrangbord eller glattstrikk?

DROPS Design 14.11.2019 kl. 07:22:

Hei Heidi, Hele plagget er strikket i vrangbord. God fornøyelse!

Sarah 20.10.2019 - 00:47:

Regarding my last question, just realized this one is not knit with 2 strands the way Rhoda is - my apologies! I would still be interested in 100% wool yarn substitutions made by Drops that won't be itchy or stretch out (I can usually figure out which gauge to use, but can't tell what is itchy or stretchy over the internet as easily.).

DROPS Design 21.10.2019 kl. 12:51:

Dear Sarah, please contact your DROPS store, even per mail or telephone, for any individual assistance for choosing the yarn. Happy knitting!

Sarah 20.10.2019 - 00:37:

Hi Drops, I posted a similar question on Drops Rhoda, since I'm choosing between that pattern and this one. Basically, I'm hoping to knit this in pure wool, in something that doesn't itch and won't stretch out. Instead of knitting 2 strands, will knitting 1 strand of Drops Karisma OR Drops Merino Extra Fine work? The gauge seems about right. Are either of the yarns I mentioned itchy?

Andersson 26.09.2019 - 20:35:

Hej, Har suttit fast i lång tid och efter att ha läst förklaringen och alla kommentarer många gånger kommer jag inte genom ökningen från 24cm mitt fram. Kan jag få en ännu tydligare förklaring, så allt arbete inte varit i onödan? Mvh E.Andersson

DROPS Design 27.09.2019 kl. 15:03:

Hej, du øger med et kast, strikker den nye maske ind i ribben så den passer ud mod siderne. Midt foran har du 2 rett, og nogle gange vil du få 4 rett ved siden af hinanden, men hovedsagen er at ribben stemmer med ribben du har på hver side. God fornøjelse!

Romina 12.06.2019 - 01:14:

Hola. Quisiera una breve explicacion de como tejer el pantalon a crochet. Gracias!!

DROPS Design 13.06.2019 kl. 23:03:

Hola Romina. No enviamos patrones personalizados. En este línk puedes encontrar algunos modelos de pantalones a ganchillo: https://www.garnstudio.com/search.php?action=search&w=pantalon&c=0&mt=2&t=0&k=0&yg=0&y=0&col=0&df=0&lang=es

ROYER Stéphanie 08.04.2019 - 16:44:

Bonjour, je bloque après les 23 cm tricotés en côtes pour les augmentations à côté de chaque marqueur : comment, entre quelles mailles et combien d'augmentations avant et après le marqueur milieu devant et idem avant et après le marqueur milieu dos en conservant toujours les côtes 2/2 ? Merci de votre réponse.

DROPS Design 09.04.2019 kl. 09:50:

Bonjour Mme Royer, en taille M, vous augmentez de chaque côté des 2 m du milieu devant et du milieu dos (= les tours commencent au milieu dos par 1 m end et se terminent au milieu dos par 1 m end = les 2 m du milieu dos - comptez la moitié des mailles pour trouver les 2 m end du milieu devant). Augmentez 1 m de part et d'autre de ces 2 m end en faisant 1 jeté, tricotez ensuite les augmentations en côtes au fur et à mesure - cf AUGMENTATIONS. Bon tricot!

Nina Almeland 10.02.2019 - 21:54:

Står at der er målskisse nederst i oppskriften... den finner jeg ikke.

DROPS Design 11.02.2019 kl. 07:29:

Hei Nina. Nei, dette plagget har dessverre ingen målskisse. Du finner hoftmål øverst under størrelser, mens andre mål (som feks benlengde og lengde fra opplegg til ben starter) kan finnes i oppskriften. God fornøyelse

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 165-32

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.