Harlequin Dreams by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with domino squares in ”Delight”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 158-11
DROPS design: Pattern no de-130
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
450-500-550-650-700 g colour no 09, turquoise/purple

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 27 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K

KNITTING TIP 1:
To avoid all yarn fastenings every square can be worked with their own ball on 1st row. Instead of cutting the yarn the balls can follow the squares upwards in the rows with domino squares.

KNITTING TIP 2:
Always pick up sts from RS.

DECREASE TIP (applies to whole domino squares):
When dec evenly on whole domino squares, dec the same no of sts on each side of marker.

HALF DOMINO SQUARE (vertical):
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K until 2 sts remain, K 2 tog. Work opposite on square in the other side of piece.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row, i.e. dec 1 st on square on every other row until 1 st remains. Cut the yarn and pull it through this st.

WHOLE DOMINO SQUARE:
Insert 1 marker in the middle st.
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K until 1 st remains before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K rest of row.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row, i.e. dec 2 sts in the middle of the square on every other row until 1 st remains, cut the yarn and pull it through remaining st.

HALF/WHOLE DOMINO SQUARE (horizontal):
Work as half/whole domino square but in addition to dec in the middle/side of square, slip last st at the end of every row on 1 stitch holder. Continue like this until 4-3-4-4-4 sts remain on needle.
SIZE S-L-XL-XXL/XXXL: Work next row (= RS) as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, slip last st on row on the stitch holder in the side (6-7-8-9 sts on stitch holder in each side of the whole and 6-7-8-9 sts on stitch holder on the half). Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts.

SIZE M: 3 sts remain on row (6 sts on stitch holder in each side).K 1 row from WS over the 3 sts.
Work next row (= RS) as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso (6 sts on stitch holder in each side of the whole and 6 sts on stitch holder on the half). Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts.
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JUMPER:
Beg by casting on sts the entire width of garment, then work one and one square back and forth in GARTER ST - see explanation above.
Cast on 370-390-410-430-470 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Delight. P 1 round. READ KNITTING TIP 1! Work next round as follows: K 17-18-19-20-22, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, * K 34-36-38-40-44, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso *, repeat from *-* 9 times in total and finish with K 17-18-19-20-22 = 350-370-390-410-450 sts.

1ST ROW WITH DOMINO SQUARES: Work WHOLE DOMINO SQUARE - see explanation above - over the first 35-37-39-41-45 sts on needle. When Domino square has been worked, work the next 35-37-39-41-45 sts the same way. Continue like this until 10 domino squares have been worked on 1st row. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

2ND ROW WITH DOMINO SQUARES: Pick up 17-18-19-20-22 sts along the edge of the next square - READ KNITTING TIP 2. Then pick up 1 st between the square and next square from 1st row. Pick up 17-18-19-20-22 sts along the side of next square = 35-37-39-41-45 sts on needle. Work whole Domino square as before. When Domino square has been worked, pick up 35-37-39-41-45 sts between 2 and 2 squares from 1st row until 10 Domino squares have been worked on 2nd row.

3RD ROW WITH DOMINO SQUARES: Work as follows: * Pick up 17-18-19-20-22 sts from RS along the edge on each of the next 2 squares from 2nd row and 1 st between squares = 35-37-39-41-45 sts on needle. K 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6 sts evenly - READ DECREASE TIP = 29-31-33-35-39 sts. Then work whole Domino square, beg on 2nd row *, repeat from *-* until 10 domino squares have been worked on 3rd row.

4TH ROW WITH DOMINO SQUARES: Pick up 14-15-16-17-19 sts along the edge of the next square. Then pick up 1 st between the square and next square from 3rd row. Pick up 14-15-16-17-19 sts along the side of next square = 29-31-33-35-39 sts on needle. Work whole Domino square as before. When Domino square has been worked, pick up 29-31-33-35-39 sts between 2 and 2 squares from 3rd row. Continue like this until 10 domino squares have been worked on 4th row.

5TH and 6TH ROW WITH DOMINO SQUARES: Work as 4th row.

7TH ROW WITH DOMINO SQUARES: * Pick up 14-15-16-17-19 sts along the edge on each of the next 2 squares from 6th row and 1 st between squares = 29-31-33-35-39 sts on needle. K 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-4-4-2-2 sts evenly = 25-27-29-33-37 sts. Then work whole Domino square, beg on 2nd row *, repeat from *-* until 10 domino squares have been worked on 7th row.

8TH ROW WITH DOMINO SQUARES: Pick up 12-13-14-16-18 sts along the edge of the next square. Then pick up 1 st between the square and next square from 7th row. Pick up 12-13-14-16-18 sts along the side of next square = 25-27-29-33-37 sts on needle. Work whole Domino square as before. When Domino square has been worked, pick up 25-27-29-33-37 sts between 2 and 2 squares from 7th row. Continue like this until 10 domino squares have been worked on 8th row.

Now continue the piece differently in the different sizes:

Size L-XL-XXL/XXXL:
9TH and 10TH ROW WITH DOMINO SQUARES: Work as 8th row.

All sizes:
Now divide the piece and finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
1ST ROW WITH DOMINO SQUARES ON BACK PIECE: Pick up 12-13-14-16-18 sts along the edges on each of the next 2 squares from previous row and 1 st between squares = 25-27-29-33-37 sts on needle. Work whole Domino square as before. When Domino square has been worked, pick up 25-27-29-33-37 sts between 2 and 2 squares. Continue like this until 5 domino squares have been worked.

2ND ROW WITH DOMINO SQUARES ON BACK PIECE: Pick up 13-14-15-17-19 sts along the edge on the first square worked on 1st row. Work HALF DOMINO SQUARE (vertical) - see explanation above. When the half square has been worked, work as follows: * Pick up 12-13-14-16-18 sts along the edges on each of the next 2 squares from 1st row and 1 st between squares = 25-27-29-33-37 sts on needle. Work whole Domino square as before *, repeat from *-* until 4 whole domino squares and 1 half domino square have been worked. Now pick up 13-14-15-17-19 sts along the edge on the last square. Work half domino square (vertical). When the half square has been worked, there are 4 whole and 2 half Domino squares.

Repeat these 2 rows with domino squares 1 more time.
Then repeat 1st row 1 more time.

Then work as follows:
LAST ROW WITH DOMINO SQUARES: Pick up 13-14-15-17-19 sts along the edge on the first square worked on back piece on last row. Work a half domino square (horizontal) – READ HALF/WHOLE DOMINO SQUARE (HORIZONTAL) . When the half square has been worked, work as follows: * Pick up 12-13-14-16-18 sts along the edges on each of the next 2 squares from last row and 1 st between squares = 25-27-29-33-37 sts on needle. Work whole Domino square (horizontal) *, repeat from *-* until 4 whole domino squares and 1 half domino square have been worked. Now pick up 13-14-15-17-19 sts along the edge on the last square. Work half domino square (horizontal). When the half square has been worked, there are 4 whole and 2 half Domino squares (horizontal).

Then work from RS as follows: Work the first 6 sts from stitch holder, pick up 1 st between squares, * work sts from stitch holder (= 6-6-7-8-9 sts) back on needle, pick up 3 sts between stitch holders, work sts from stitch holder (= 6-6-7-8-9 sts) back on needle, pick up 1 st between squares *, repeat from *-* until 6-6-7-8-9 sts remain on stitch holder, work sts on stitch holder back on needle = 77-77-87-97-107 sts. Work 2 ridges in garter st over all sts. Then cast off the middle 31-31-35-39-43 sts = 23-23-26-29-32 sts remain on each shoulder. Work in garter st over shoulder for 2.5 cm. Cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Work as on back piece.

SLEEVES:
The sleeve is worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 50-52-54-56-58 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm with Delight. K 6 rows over all sts. Then continue in stocking st until finished measurements. When piece measures 8-5-5-5-5 cm, inc 1 st in each side of piece. Repeat inc every 4-3½-3-2½-2 cm 9-11-13-15-17 more times = 70-76-82-88-94 sts. When piece measures 49-48-48-46-45 cm (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), cast off. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves with WS outwards. Sew arm seams and underarm seams from where front piece and back piece were divided and up to sleeve.

Diagram

symbols = knitting direction
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 158-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (95)

country flag Gemma wrote:

Which cast on approach should I use for this? Cast on with loops? Old Norwegian way? Or basic cast on like the one shown in “ How to start knitting for a beginner”

13.12.2021 - 14:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gemma, you can use your favorite technique to cast on stitches, we generally use the continental cast on. Happy knitting!

14.12.2021 kl. 07:29

country flag Ute Wybiralla wrote:

Wird der Pullover in Hin-und Rückreihen gestrickt? Wenn ich die erforderliche Maschenzahl für meine Größe anschlage(Gr.XL) und in HIn-und Rückreihen stricke ist das Teil viel zu groß. Selbst wenn ich um 2 Größen verkleiner. Woran liegt das?

30.10.2020 - 14:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Wybiralla, sollte Ihre Maschenprobe stimmen, dann stimmt die Maschenanzahl und so bekommen Sie die Massenangaben von der Skizze - am Anfang schlagen Sie alle Maschen von den unteren Rand, aber dann nehmen Sie Maschen (= 430 M zu 410 M abgenommen), und vergessen Sie nicht, diese Maschen sind die von jedem Quadrat (= die 1. Reihe von Quadrate werden je über 41 M gestrickt) also nicht gerade von einer Seite bis zur anderen sondern mit dem V von jedem Domino (deshalb brauch man mehr Maschne). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.10.2020 kl. 15:21

country flag Sonia wrote:

Grazie! Conosco la lavorazione domino, ma non mi avete risposto... Domani inizierò la lavorazione senza aver capito! Mi dite almeno se è lavorato in tondo?

04.08.2019 - 21:21

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Sonia. Lavora in tondo, dal basso verso l’alto, fino agli scalfi. Qui il lavoro viene separato e procede avanti e indietro, separatamente, per il dietro e per il davanti. Buon lavoro!

04.08.2019 kl. 21:34

country flag Sonia wrote:

Ho già acquistato il filato e vorrei iniziare il progetto, ma, leggendo le spiegazioni, non riesco a capire se sia lavorato in tondo ( nella spiegazione dice avanti e indietro), dove eventualmente si troverebbe la separazione del lavoro (laterale? Dietro?) e soprattutto perché non compaiono i mezzi quadrati domino fino alla separazione del lavoro? Bisogna cucirlo a zig-zag? 🤔 Vi ringrazio se vorrete darmi delucidazioni.

04.08.2019 - 18:35

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Sonia, questo modello ha una costruzione particolare, non è lavorato con le solite geometrie, ma costruito riprendendo di volta in volta le maglie per i diversi quadrati. Leggendo il modello è difficile capire la costruzione, deve iniziare a lavorarlo per capire come si sviluppa. Buon lavoro!

04.08.2019 kl. 20:40

country flag émilie wrote:

Bonjour, Je tricote le modèle158-11 mais j'aimerai savoir les mesures au niveau de la poitrine car j'hésite entre la taille M et L. Le bas m' à l' air très large par rapport aux épaules. Merci

04.12.2017 - 08:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour, au niveau de la poitrine vous avez plus ou moins 40-45-48-55-60 cm (dans la taille M est 45, et en L 48 cm). Bon travail!

04.12.2017 kl. 08:30

Janice wrote:

I've finally got to the top and I agree with an earlier comment that the transition row from diagonal squares to flat knitting is messy and it's made worse by the thinness of yarn and big needles. I too will be taking a darning needle to that transition and tidying it up a lot.

01.10.2017 - 15:40

Janice wrote:

2nd error - 1st ROW WITH DONINO SQUARES: line reads - over the first 35 sts on needle. However if you do this the first row is WS over RS. You need to turn the work before knitting over those first 35 sts to keep the WR & RS correct!!

01.08.2017 - 10:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Janice, the first round is worked from RS, then when working the 1st row with domino squares, you work the first 35 sts on round from RS, then turn to work the domino back and forth. Happy knitting!

01.08.2017 kl. 12:26

Jan wrote:

I have found a couple of errors you should amend. First paragraph of Jumper:- The line reads - Work next round as follows: K 17 etc., slip 1 stitch as if to K, K2 tog, psso, *K34 etc., (slip 1 stitch as if to K), K2 tog, psso* The bit in brackets is missing from that line!!

01.08.2017 - 10:21

DROPS Design answered:

Thanks Jan, this will be fixed.

01.08.2017 kl. 12:25

Janice wrote:

This is a very complicated pattern to read and make sense of. Right at the start it says "Cast on entire width and work "one and one" ( is that a poor translation?) square back and forth" and in the next line it says purl first ROUND - followed by "next ROUND knit. So is this knit back and forward or is in knit in the round?

29.07.2017 - 14:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Janice, you first cast on all sts around body, then work each square the one after the other - each square is worked back and forth (see DOMINO SQUARE): so cast on the total number of sts for bottom of body, then join in the round and P 1 round, K 1 round dec as explained, then work the dominos separately in rows = 10 dominos around the body. Then work next row with dominos and so on. Happy knitting!

31.07.2017 kl. 09:58

country flag Sharon Munsey wrote:

I've finished the back at last. The last row (where you pick up stitches in between stitches held on stitch holder) is not pretty: I was left with holes/gaps that I had to fill with yarn and sewing needle. Surely there has to be a better way to do this Garnstudio?

14.07.2017 - 17:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Munsey, you can pick up the thread between sts on st holder and work it twisted with the next st tog to avoid holes at the transitions. Happy knitting!

17.07.2017 kl. 10:03

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