DROPS / 152 / 7

Blue Notes by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS socks in "Fabel". Size 35-43

Tags: socks,
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-276
Yarn group A
Size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: approx. 22 - 24 - 27 cm
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100-100-100 g colour no 340, blue lagoon.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Row 1 (= RS): Work until 7-8-8 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): Work until 7-8-8 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): Work until 6-7-7 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): Work until 6-7-7 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 st less before each dec until there are 14-14-16 sts on needle.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 60-64-68 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Fabel. Work 1 round in stocking st. Continue in rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 rounds (1 cm). Continue in stocking st – AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round, dec 6-6-6 sts evenly = 54-58-62 sts.
When piece measures 12-14-16 cm, keep the first 26-28-30 sts on needle for heel and slip the last 28-30-32 sts on 1 stitch holder (= mid on top of foot). Work in stocking st back and forth over heel sts for 5-5½-6 cm. Insert 1 marker in the piece. Then work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above! After heel dec, pick up 13-14-16 sts along each side of heel and slip the 28-30-32 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 68-72-80 sts. Insert 1 marker on each side of the 28-30-32 sts on top of foot. Continue with stocking st in the round - AT THE SAME TIME dec in each side as follows: K tog the last 2 sts before marker on mid on top of foot twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front) and K tog the first 2 sts after last marker on top of foot. Repeat dec every other round a total of 8-8-10 times = 52-56-60 sts. Work until piece measures 18-19-21 cm from marker on heel (= 4-5-6 cm remain). Insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 26-28-30 sts both on top of foot and under foot. Continue working stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes on each side of both markers as follows:
Before marker: K 2 tog. After marker: K 2 twisted tog. Repeat dec in each side every other round a total of 4-7-9 times and then every round a total of 6-3-2 times = 12-16-16 sts remain on needle. On next round work all sts tog 2 by 2. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 152-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Merja Palomäki 06.11.2019 - 21:05:

Miten saan toiseen sukkaan samanlaiset kuviot kuin ensimmäiset. Yritin aloittaa uuden kerän mutta siinä kuviot olivat aivan eri kohdissa kuin ensimmäisessä sukassa.

DROPS Design 18.12.2019 kl. 17:16:

Hei, kun neulot kirjavalla langalla on tärkeää, että aloitat toisen sukan kerää samasta raitaväristä, jolla aloitit ensimmäisen sukan kerän. Muuten sukkien kuviot voivat erota melko paljon.

Janette 26.07.2019 - 13:47:

Hello, I am working on the second sock however I can’t get the stripe pattern the same as the first sock. The repeat in the stripe is too random. Do you have any advice to prevent this problem as I have purchased a lot of Fabel yarn to make socks. I am using colour 904, dyelot 22250. Cheers

DROPS Design 06.08.2019 kl. 10:26:

Dear Janette, DROPS Fabel consist of various colours that repeat regularly but with not on the same length basis. For further assistance, please contact your DROPS store. Happy knitting!

Ann Karin Vestergaard 24.07.2019 - 08:28:

Jeg vil købe strømpepinde. Hvilket materiale er bedst? Hvad er den bedste længde på pindene? Hvordan laver man den bedste hæl, ude at der bliver 'huller"?

DROPS Design 02.08.2019 kl. 09:41:

Hej Ann Karin, det er en smags sag, spørg gerne din DROPS forhandler, de hjælper også gerne til med hælen. Se også vores instruktionsvideoer på sokker og hæl. God fornøjelse!

Janette 06.07.2019 - 11:42:

Hello, please advise how I can do a k2 P2 rib on 58 stitches in the round. I think there is an error in the pattern.

DROPS Design 07.07.2019 kl. 08:48:

Dear Janette, you start with 60-64-68 sts and work 1 round in stocking st, than work rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 rounds (1 cm). After that work in stocking st and on 1st round dec 6-6-6 sts evenly = 54-58-62 sts. So on 58 sts in round you continue in stocking st. Happy knitting!

Ricci 04.11.2018 - 19:23:

Bonjour je souhaiterais faire ce modèle qui m a l air très simple, je suis débutante dans la réalisation des chaussettes. Je voudrais savoir si je peux faire les côtes dans un diamètre inférieur comme sur certains modèles que vous présentez. D autant que je voudrais faire au moins 4 cm de cote. Aussi si jamais je décidais de faire le modèle en magic loop ou avec des minis aiguilles circulaires cela me compliquera t il la tache quand a l excution du patron. Merci

DROPS Design 05.11.2018 kl. 09:52:

Bonjour Mme Ricci, pensez tout d'abord à bien vérifier votre échantillon, et, si vous débutez, vous pouvez commencer par réaliser le modèle tel qu'il est décrit (sur 4 aiguilles doubles pointes, en magic loop etc.. peu importe) pour pouvoir bien suivre sa réalisation, toutefois, vous pouvez tout à fait tricoter plus de hauteur de côtes si vous le souhaitez. Votre magasin DROPS saura vous conseiller de façon plus personnelle si besoin - même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

Paula Morgan 10.01.2017 - 23:30:

Im a complete beginner. How many needles do I use to cast on?

DROPS Design 11.01.2017 kl. 09:29:

Dear Mrs Morgan, the video below shows how to cast on sts on double pointed needles and how to work then in stocking st - find more videos about that pattern under tab "videos" or at the very bottom of the page. Happy knitting!

Maarit Laine 19.08.2016 - 16:19:

Hei, Minkä numeroisilla puikoilla olisi hyvä kutoa, kun puikot ovat neliskanttiset?

DROPS Design 22.08.2016 kl. 16:13:

Hei! Mikäli neuletiheytesi on sama kuin ohjeessa, neulot ohjeen antamalla puikkonumerolla, eli numerolla 2,5.

Cova 02.03.2016 - 16:58:

Entiendo, muchas gracias. Voy a ver sí lo consigo. Otra cosilla, los Mp los dejo sueltos y los voy moviendo según teja al principio y al final dela aguja donde tengo los30 del empeine o en el primer y último punto? Muchas gracias

DROPS Design 03.03.2016 kl. 09:14:

Hola Cova. Los MP se colocan en las agujas y se van moviendo junto con la labor. Mientras estamos disminuyendo tiene que haber siempre 30 pts entre los MP.

Cova 01.03.2016 - 16:20:

Ya he tejido hasta las disminuciones del talón. Tengo 4 agujas con 14 (del talón), 14 levantados, 30 empeine, otros 14 levantados. No comprendo bien dónde tengo que poner los 2 (?) MP y cómo hacer las disminuciones. ¿Tejo juntos el ultimo punto de los 14 levantados con el primero del empeine y el ultimo del empeine con el primero de los otros 14 levantados? ¿o solo tejo juntos los dos últimos de los 14 levantados y los dos primeros de los otros 14 levantados? Gracias de antemano por su ayuda.

DROPS Design 02.03.2016 kl. 10:33:

Hola Cova, los MPs se colocan justo antes y después de los 30 pts del empeine. Las dism se realizan en los 14 pts anteriores y posteriores a los pts del empeine pero NO en los pts del empeine, es decir, trabajamos 12 pts y los últimos 2 los trabajamos juntos, ahora los 30 pts del empeine sin dism y después del 2º MP trabajamos juntos los 2 primeros pts de los 14 levantados en el otro lado.

Karin 14.07.2015 - 21:32:

Est ce possible d utiliser une aiguille circulaire à la place des aiguilles doubles pointes? J ai essayé mais j ai l impression que le nombre de mailles ne permet pas de le faire.

DROPS Design 27.07.2015 kl. 11:49:

Bonjour Karin, quand le nombre de mailles est trop petit pour être tricoté en rond sur aiguille circulaire, on utilise des aiguilles doubles pointes ou la technique du magic loop - voir vidéo ci-dessous. Bon tricot!

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